How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures) | Page 19 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)




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This thread is AWESOME!!! I read through all 18 pages before I attempted my upper control arms. Have a 2000 2WD Explorer. Ordered the Moog UCA's and set of camber bolts for each side from Rockauto. I went with the one piece right side UCA, to replace my original two piece. I was surprised at how easy this job was!!! It was also time to replace the spark plugs and wires, so I did them while I had the inner fenderwells out. The upper control arm replacement on each side was easier and quicker than the spark plug /wire replacement on the 4.0 engine!!! From previous posts here, I expected the original UCA bolts on the driver side to fight me... Well, they DID!!! But I was able to rotate them just enough to squeeze them out of there!!! Just need to get 'er aligned and I'm back on the road!!! :thumbsup:
 






yea just had my upper ball joint replaced and the exsaust from the caddy back to the tip. Paid around 300. If I didn't need the exaust done I probably would have tried my self for the upper ball joint and I was right in there when they did it cause the mechincic is a friend of mine so got to take a good look around underneath on the lift which is always nice to be able to do. But the upper ball joint wasn't to bad at all. With a lift even easier.
 






Going to be replacing the UCA's, lower ball joints and outer tie rods on my 1995 2WD. In this scenario, which order should I replace the parts in? Thinking that the stress of replacing parts might required a particular order. Hope that made sense. Please advise.
 






Going to be replacing the UCA's, lower ball joints and outer tie rods on my 1995 2WD. In this scenario, which order should I replace the parts in? Thinking that the stress of replacing parts might required a particular order. Hope that made sense. Please advise.

I just completely removed my spindles proceeding in a logical sequence (tires, calipers, rotors, splash guard). remove the rubber inner-fender splash shields to give yourself plenty of room to work (not necessary on the passenger side if only replacing the ball joint of the 2-piece design) and have at it. no real surprises. it's also a great opportunity to change your spark plugs and front brakes. have you already replaced the lower's? if not, do them too.
 






I just completely removed my spindles proceeding in a logical sequence (tires, calipers, rotors, splash guard). remove the rubber inner-fender splash shields to give yourself plenty of room to work (not necessary on the passenger side if only replacing the ball joint of the 2-piece design) and have at it. no real surprises. it's also a great opportunity to change your spark plugs and front brakes. have you already replaced the lower's? if not, do them too.

I will be doing the LBJ's and the UCA's and tie rod ends all at the same time.

I dont think my original question was worded well. Let me try it again. Is there any advantage / disadvantage to replacing the UCAs, LBJs and Tie Rods in a particular order?
 






I will be doing the LBJ's and the UCA's and tie rod ends all at the same time.

I dont think my original question was worded well. Let me try it again. Is there any advantage / disadvantage to replacing the UCAs, LBJs and Tie Rods in a particular order?

nope.
 






I replaced upper and lower ball joints on both sides two weeks ago and I would like to post my experience for other people. I read through all pages of this thread and the one for upper ball joint before I began. I did not understand what they meant by the clearance issue of the driver side upper ball joint until I got into the work.
This work took me a lot of time and energy, but finally I got it done. I cannot summarize how
I did it here because I do not remember the exact details. I think you will need so many
trials and errors to have it done. Don't worry. It can be done. You just need to enforce
the steel pipes out of the way with screwdrivers or something.
I used 8 lb sledge hammer and it worked, but I would recommend it as the last choice.
Hammering made a lot of noise and used up my energy.
 






I replaced upper and lower ball joints on both sides two weeks ago and I would like to post my experience for other people. I read through all pages of this thread and the one for upper ball joint before I began. I did not understand what they meant by the clearance issue of the driver side upper ball joint until I got into the work.
This work took me a lot of time and energy, but finally I got it done. I cannot summarize how
I did it here because I do not remember the exact details. I think you will need so many
trials and errors to have it done. Don't worry. It can be done. You just need to enforce
the steel pipes out of the way with screwdrivers or something.
I used 8 lb sledge hammer and it worked, but I would recommend it as the last choice.
Hammering made a lot of noise and used up my energy.

when i did the upper & lower ball joints on my 2001, i replaced the OE upper control arms (2-piece design on passenger side). i didn't have any real problems with the driver's side UCA. i'm not saying it was a snap, but no hammering was required. i did need to unbolt one line clamp and persuade the fuel line out of the way, but that was no big deal. the passenger side was a snap to change. i don't know... proper tools and technique maybe? maybe the v6 has more stuff in the way?
 






UCA Clearance issue

Greetings, I attempted to change my UCA on my 2001 ford explorer. All was going well until I went to take the Camber bolt out and couldn't due to lack of clearance. The bolt seemed to be hitting a silver line running behind the shocks. Is there anyway around it? Can i move it to side?
 






Greetings, I attempted to change my UCA on my 2001 ford explorer. All was going well until I went to take the Camber bolt out and couldn't due to lack of clearance. The bolt seemed to be hitting a silver line running behind the shocks. Is there anyway around it? Can i move it to side?

i don't recall what that line is (power steering maybe), but when i did mine i found i was able to unbolt a bracket holding a line in the front and i just bent the fuel line out of my way in the rear. if you haven't already do so, remove the rubber splash shield to get a better view and more room to work.
 






Can I replace what seems to be an older version of a control arm with the wish bone control arm? I just realized I had the older on the passenger side
 






Do you have to replace the control arm on a 2000 Ford Explorer when changing ball joints?
 






Do you have to replace the control arm on a 2000 Ford Explorer when changing ball joints?

For upper ball joints, if they are the original ones, then yes, you have to replace the upper control arms. If they have been replaced previously, some have replaceable ball joints and others do not. The lower ball joints can be replaced without replacing the control arms.
 






Does any one know what the caster angle spec is? I've got a camber/caster kit and a caster gauge to set it myself. Just need the angle in degrees.
 






OK, just finished the UCA's. The Good: took about an hour or so for the driver's side, 15 minutes to loosen all the hardware and the rest getting those two :censored: upper bolts out. The passenger side 20 minutes. The Bad: thought I had a vacuum line blocking the rear bolt so I cut it. Turns out it was part of the neg. battery cable connection :( If I ever have to do a set again should not take longer than an hour from start to finish for both.
:salute: to all who posted info on this thread. BTW a local shop quoted me $1300 to do uppers and lowers.
 






OK, just finished the UCA's. The Good: took about an hour or so for the driver's side, 15 minutes to loosen all the hardware and the rest getting those two :censored: upper bolts out. The passenger side 20 minutes. The Bad: thought I had a vacuum line blocking the rear bolt so I cut it. Turns out it was part of the neg. battery cable connection :( If I ever have to do a set again should not take longer than an hour from start to finish for both.
:salute: to all who posted info on this thread. BTW a local shop quoted me $1300 to do uppers and lowers.

Yeah, it's crazy what shops charge. I did my upper's and lowers with new sway bar end-links (all Moog problem solver parts) for something like $250.
 






Yeah, it's crazy what shops charge. I did my upper's and lowers with new sway bar end-links (all Moog problem solver parts) for something like $250.

Ford dealer wanted $1800.00 two years ago. Local shop wanted $1850.
I did the left and right side same as you (Moog parts) plus did full brakes calipers, rotors for $490.00.
 






2000 UCA Pass side replacement

I am going to replace the pass side UCA shortly, I was going to use the 1 piece, but I think if I stay with the 2 piece it will be better for me at the alignment shop. I have UCA, I am doing the shocks as well, replacing to KYB gas adjust, is there anything else I may need??

I like to have parts there so I do not have to run and find them while I am in the middle of the job. I can always return them if needed.

Oh it is a 2000 Explorer Ltd, 5.0 V-8, AWD gas guzzler


Thanks
 



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I am going to replace the pass side UCA shortly, I was going to use the 1 piece, but I think if I stay with the 2 piece it will be better for me at the alignment shop. I have UCA, I am doing the shocks as well, replacing to KYB gas adjust, is there anything else I may need??

I like to have parts there so I do not have to run and find them while I am in the middle of the job. I can always return them if needed.

Oh it is a 2000 Explorer Ltd, 5.0 V-8, AWD gas guzzler


Thanks

Do you have alignment bolts/kit?
 






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