Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

And here is some video links! There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 

[BKennedy]

Fab up a bracket for the fairlead that is able to be bolted to the winch plate. you'll need more gussets to reinforce it but that's the way I'd go.

Agreed.
My winch is mounted to a bumper, but I have to pull the bumper to remove the winch. If you want them mounted so they are tucked away there are always issues.

 

[turboexplorer]

You guys hit it dead on what I was planning on doing! The thought is to make a 1/4" bracket that holds the fairlead and has 4 bolts to the plate. Easy to install / remove if needed and plenty strong. Also won't be attached to the bumper so can always stay with the winch.

I know there is always issues with it tucked so far back in but to me it's totally worth it for the clean look. Figured if winch ever needs to be serviced I would have to pull the bumper from the start of the project. Factory bumper is 4 bolts and fairly light and easy to move with 1 person so no issues. Also can use winch mounting spot if I ever built a bumper as well. Low and tucked away.

 

[BKennedy]

Can you fab it so the fairlead plate uses the same mounts as the winch or would that leave too much free space for the plate to bend?
You going to run the fairlead through the bumper, or under, or above?
You mentioned the good part about using the stock bumper; weight. My winch bumper weighs about 85 pounds without the winch. Nearly impossible to remove with one person.
Having the winches tucked up so it requires bumper removal to access makes it unlikely they will be stolen.

 

[gmanpaint]

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-...px?t_c=18&t_s=124&t_pt=5143&t_pn=PSC45-57-010

I don't recall what line your running but...This plate could be used, and if your going with Syn rope, the Hawse fairlead is smaller and a factor5 prolink end, will tuck away nice and flush to the face of the fairlead. Kinda pricey for all that tho.

 

[turboexplorer]

Can you fab it so the fairlead plate uses the same mounts as the winch or would that leave too much free space for the plate to bend?
You going to run the fairlead through the bumper, or under, or above?
You mentioned the good part about using the stock bumper; weight.
Having the winches tucked up so it requires bumper removal to access makes it unlikely they will be stolen.

Can't really use the same mounting bolts as the winch. It would have to go under the plate and there is only 1/4" of room between that and center front rock light. And as far as bending it shouldn't have an issue as it only has to stick out roughly 1 3/8" from the plate. So it can't bend 1/4" being that short very easily at all. Look at the plate that gmanpaint posted in the link it looks like its only 1/8" from the picture. The bolting section and the part that the fairlead bolts to will all be 1/4".

The fairlead will be behind the bumper opening so technically it is inside the bumper with the rope coming through the bumper. The opening is big and curved so I can pull at like a 80* to the side of the front of the truck and not even rub the bumper with the rope. Same as far as up and down it would have to be at an extreme angle to rub on the bumper.

And hadn't thought of it being in so far in as a theft deterrent but it makes complete sense. Would take way to long to remove in a hurry. Also the other thing I thought it does to help is it is completely covered from being in the sun or normal weather. Of course will get wet when driving in rain but as for parked its fully out of the weather.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-...px?t_c=18&t_s=124&t_pt=5143&t_pn=PSC45-57-010

I don't recall what line your running but...This plate could be used, and if your going with Syn rope, the Hawse fairlead is smaller and a factor5 prolink end, will tuck away nice and flush to the face of the fairlead. Kinda pricey for all that tho.

I am running a synthetic rope so I have the small fairlead. It is 3/4" thick aluminum. Will look really clean next to the bumper. That factor55 link looks really sweet but man that sure is pricey for just a hook. Guess I haven't looked into what hook to run, it of course comes with the large heavy iron hook so will have to look at a good option for replacement. That factor55 is a good idea though would like it pulled tight to the fairlead and not pulled out and hooked else ware. Anyone want to donate to a winch hook fund?

I did get the patterns made and most of the steel cut to make the mount last night. It will end up mounting on the sides of the winch so the mount will be wider than the fairlead. Tonight is date night though so no work on the truck tonight but will get it all finished up tomorrow and get it painted up so I can go back together on Sunday I hope.

 

[turboexplorer]

Looks really good. Aren't you eventually going to build bumpers though? I do like the hidden factory look a lot.

Sorry I totally missed a few posts. Yes that would be the eventual goal, but for time and things decided to at least get the winch on the truck first. Would love both front and rear bumpers. Really like the ones that [MENTION=3817]BKennedy[/MENTION] is running.

I do like me some clean welds. Nice work.

That would be a fun run, two white SAS coil over Explorers from the two best gens to modify.

Thanks, good welds makes for a cleaner stronger truck. I am not professional by any means but try to do my best.

And a Southern Utah run would be amazing, especially if we could round up a few additional trucks. Pretty sure [MENTION=3964]sirhk100[/MENTION] would come up from Vegas for a run. That's at least 4 trucks.

Looking good !

I had the same ordeal with relocating the box. I was going to run it inside the cab, but decided to eventually get a wireless remote installed. So I put it in the grill to the pass side, and can reach it to plug the controller for now. Some food for thought for ya.

I say paint it.

I ended up making a small mount on the side of the fairlead mount for the remote plug in port. Will look really good and I didn't end up needing a hole in the grill.

Think I am going to plasti dip the chrome part of the grill white and run it for a bit and see how the white looks and feels and go from there. If I really like it I will buy a blank grill and have it all paint paint matched.

Fab up a bracket for the fairlead that is able to be bolted to the winch plate. you'll need more gussets to reinforce it but that's the way I'd go.

Exactly what I did! Turned out great and is really nice and strong and clean.

 

[sirhk100]

I'm pretty busy from now up till early March for the Mint race but after that, I'd definitely be interested...

 

[turboexplorer]

Now for a few fun pictures again.

This was a really cool wall to climb. You have to approach it a bit farther to the right than you may think or want to for that matter cause it creates a goofy feeling of off camber in the truck but its really not. Then you have to spin all tires on the wall (can do at a light throttle) and walk the truck over to the left about 1-2ft. Then you reverse a hair, then hit the hammer and get up the wall. Was a really fun obstacle, haven't ever climbed it before. Always went around it when I was stock of course. The limited slip in the front was very beneficial as I could turn all 4 and walk the truck over. My brother [MENTION=137709]sector9[/MENTION] with the open front diff did it but was a bit more work to get it to walk over.

 

[turboexplorer]

I'm pretty busy from now up till early March for the Mint race but after that, I'd definitely be interested...

I am pretty busy until March 15th as well. Will be down in St. George from the 12th-15th but will all be on 4 wheelers with a bunch of guys from up here. (annual get out of the snow in Salt Lake guys ride) After that as far as I know I am free game for any weekend.

That would be a fun run, two white SAS coil over Explorers from the two best gens to modify.

[MENTION=3817]BKennedy[/MENTION]^^^^Knew he would be in, we have talked about getting together for a run for a few years and never have managed to actually set one up yet.

 

[turboexplorer]

Love this picture!

[MENTION=137709]sector9[/MENTION] climbing the same wall.

Bunch of razr's in the back ground watching.

 

[BKennedy]

What did you wheel base end up as? Mine is 114"

 

[turboexplorer]

I am 114 1/16" So dead on the same as yours.

 

[turboexplorer]

So onto catching up winch pictures. Winch fitted on plate after plate was completed.

Factory transmission cooler location.

This will be the new location.

Making sure the lines will clear.

Starting the lower cooler mount. Made a simple mount out of 1/2" wide 1/8" flat stock. Turned the legs sideways as to not impede any air flow. (not that it would matter any lol)

Mocked up into place. I used all 3 factory cooler mounts with original hardware.

 

[turboexplorer]

Mocked up.

Burned in. I did have to shift the factory body # plate over a bit for a mounting spot.

And transmission cooler bolted up in place.

Top view.

Factory air deflector trimmed to fit the new cooler location.

 

[turboexplorer]

New solenoid mounting bracket. It is located on the outside of the right frame rail.

Will be nice and hidden behind the bumper.

And the solenoid box mounted. (Sorry for the super poor quality pictures, they are with my phone and it struggles in the low light in the garage) Also the remote plug in port was removed and blocked off, it will be mounted else ware.

 

[turboexplorer]

Wires crossing the frame rail to reach the winch motor.

Do you see the power wire for the winch? Me either, it's hidden. It is inside the upper section of the front fiberglass core support. It is just under the black trim piece you see sitting up in place on the top. It is inside it as it is U shaped.

Wires hooked up to the winch motor and old trans cooler lines coming through their routing. Think I am going to redo the hard cooler line ends so the rubber section can go on the side of the radiator instead of under it.

Bumper back on with winch in place.

Holding the fairlead roughly where it will end up being mounted.

 

[turboexplorer]

So onto the fairlead mount. First held bumper in place did a bunch of measuring and then laid it out onto my CAD. After the rough size was there and the shape of the fairlead was drawn onto it I could then better see how I wanted the mount to look and where I wanted the support. All this is made from 1/4" plate and all cut out with a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel.

So this is what I decided on for the mount design. It is strong and ties both sides of the mount together as well as keeps a very minimal footprint that you can see from the front of the truck. Also when you see it done you will see how it will act as sort of an arch and will also ad a bit of strenghth to the plate from flexing at all when the winch is twisting. I also center punched the fairlead mount holes through the pattern so it was all done in one shot no guessing.

Cut out.

Fairlead sitting on it, love how its the same angle as the fairlead aluminum.

Rest of the mount cut out.

All sanded and edges all rounded and corners rounded for a nice clean look. Also easy to handle as it is smooth everywhere.

 

[turboexplorer]

All mocked up and ready to be welded. I used a piece of 1/4" plate under it so that the mounting surfaces would be perfectly flat and in line.

All welded up.

Fairlead attatched.

Mocked up on the winch plate.

Fitted the bumper so I can make sure it is exactly what I want. and is placed perfect. Then mark so some mounting holes can be drilled. Also I did end up needing to cut about 1/4"X1/2" off of the inside of the bumper where the lower corners of the fairlead mount at fitment issues. Easy fix. I have at least 1/4" between any part of the fairlead and any part of the bumper.

 

[turboexplorer]

All bolted up! Here you can see where the fairlead mount can act as a sort of arch and add a bit of flexing strenghth to the front of the winch plate.

Made the remote plug socket mount onto the fairlead mount at the end as I thought it would add a nice clean look to it and will be easy access to plug in. Also didn't have to drill any holes for it else ware.

All stripped down and taped off and ready to be painted. Finally, as usual the project took longer than I thought it would. Last Saturday had a huge migraine so didn't get anything done so that didn't help either. But very happy with how it has turned out. Was a chore getting it to fit really cleanly behind the factory bumper but I got it done.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Nice work.