bulging brake lines | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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bulging brake lines

Blue91Ex

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 12, 2013
Messages
750
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City, State
Maine
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 XLT
Alright so I probably already know the answer to this, but I noticed my front brake line was frigged up today. The truck brakes fine, but there is a soft brake line between the frame and front driver side wheel, this line has a much larger diameter soft line on it, and that part has a bulge and a very very slight leak. I'm not sure if this is a normal piece to have on the brake line or if it was a patch that has finally started giving out. It looks like it has been seeping for some time, but I have a 2 hour drive coming up on busy roads to go home, is this line something I can leave for a while until I get back or is it something that really needs to get replaced right now?
 



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That pretty much needs to be your call... Whenever I suspect something wrong that's brake or wheel related I park the vehicle until I can find out for certain. Of course, I have a spare vehicle that I can use. I realize others often do not.
 






That pretty much needs to be your call... Whenever I suspect something wrong that's brake or wheel related I park the vehicle until I can find out for certain. Of course, I have a spare vehicle that I can use. I realize others often do not.

This is exactly where my dilema is, I currently don't have any other vehicle aside from my moms truck which is at home, 2 hours away.. I can work on the truck in the shop friday after class but I know my truck is very rusty and I dont want to risk breaking a fitting or something right before I go home, because I sort of need to be able to go home..
Like I said the leak is tiny and i doubt it even leaks unless I slam on the brakes, building up the pressure, soft lines are elastic, they shoudl sort of close as long as the hole hasnt become too big right...
 






Do it now. Right now. Park it until its fixed.

Of all the things on a car, the brakes are the most important.
 






A rubber brake line is under $10 and easy to replace. Just go for it. That said, I have driven a vehicle under such conditions, but never felt safe doing so.
 






Hands down, you NEED to do it. Get a flare nut wrench on the fittings you have to remove and see if they will budge easily. If not, start soaking them in PB Blaster and try a day or two later. Premium brake lines are very affordable and it's not horrible to replace them with the right tools.

I highly advise against it but if you do need to go on your trip without fixing this issue, take a bottle of brake fluid and don't run the reservoir dry. Take a small amount of comfort in knowing that the brake system is split front to rear so even if you totally drain the front, the rears will still work in an emergency.
 






The bulges turned out to be normal, where the protective sleeve piece goes over the fitting. the crack I thought was there apparently wasnt once I got it up on a lift. While I was under there though, I did notice my year olf upper ball joints are totally destroyed so now i get to fix that..
 






Did you forget to grease them, or were they just cheap ball joints? Made in USA Moog grease-able ones are my favorite.

Funny thing, my 6 month old rear wheel cylinders took a dump. They were $10 fodder, the only ones the parts store had when I needed them.

I buy all my brake parts from brakeperformance.com Its the only made in USA brake parts I can even find. Brake hoses, calipers, rotors, master cylinders, wheel cylinders, drums you name it, and all shipped free.

If you do replace the brake hoses, consider doing the hard line as well. Its easier IMO than fighting a 20 year old rusty fitting.
 






2stroke, have you used brakeperformance.com's higher-end rotors? They're claiming 30% better stopping power with their slotted rotors, for example...
 






No I have not. I have bought 2 sets of front rotors for 2 vehicles, but they were both solid rotors. The slots on those rotors are unique, and may very well keep debris off the pad and rotor. My thinking is its all for looks. Usually slotted rotors are just hacked up for weight savings and heat dissipation. The brakes are so good on explorers I wouldn't bother upgrading. Stock brakes feel just fine even towing 2 or more tons. Rear axle swap with disk brakes would be a better way to go.
 






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