How to: Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

[hunterwolf]

thanks for the pictures,

i have done this once before, I found using a 8mm wrench and hemostat works well in removing and installing the bottom front screw

thanks again

 

[amyg]

This is awesome! I got a quote of almost $600 from a local guy to do this. Now all I need is $70 and some time. Thanks!

 

[fireball 440]

I bought the Motorcraft part from rockauto.com for $49, same part at the dealer is $90.

Just did this on my 2005 Explorer, worked like a charm and can't even tell its cut apart after installed.

 

[fireball 440]

There are 5 or 6 different part numbers. I removed my old part first and matched numbers on fordparts.com, then ordered the same part number from rockauto.com for $40 less.

To the person who had the air flow direction problem, that is the other actuator, the vaccum one. You can see it under the dash.

 

[Khorst23]

The new actuator i just got wont quit running any ideas y

 

[Big-Al]

The following steps involve cutting the dash. Some have removed the old actuator and replaced the new one without cutting the dash. I recommend trying without cutting the dash and only cut the dash if the actuator cannot be removed and replaced with the dash intact.

I followed these instructions and want to thank you so much for doing this, saved me a bunch of money!

Just want to add something:

I found that if I removed the two clips that the dash support brace has, then the Blend Door actuator has plenty of room to slide out and the new one goes in pretty easily.

pics below:

The back of those clips which hold your bolts protrude but once you remove slip the clips off, you have enough room.

Hope it helps someone and saves you from cutting up your console!

-Big-Al

 

[p38fln]

The new actuator i just got wont quit running any ideas y

Bad actuator, it should stop on its own. Especially at the stops - if you go full hot or full cold, it should move to the end, whine a bit, and then click off. If it keeps trying to spin, or keeps spinning - something is wrong with the actuator or the shaft is the wrong style so its not spinning it properly or the blend door is broken and not stopping when it hits the limits of its positioning.

 

[jamespz03]

I'm hoping you can help me diagnose here. For several months, we've had the loud clicking (thumping to me) whenever moving from hot to cold and back. Last night, I could not get the clicking/thumping to stop.

I read that I could remove the glove box, reach in, and then push a lever down to reset it. I did that and then I got no air flow out of any of the vents except the dash front defrost. I then found that sometimes the arm breaks (in the post below) but upon inspection mine is intact.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249624


So I then turned on the vents and manually pushed the arm towards the firewall and air started to flow out the vents. If I let go, it goes back to the original position and I get no air. I'm under the impression based on Big Rondo's sticky that I have a bad blend door actuator (cause of the clicking) but I don't know if that's also related to causing the vents not to work.

I don't have the dual climate controls and it's a 2003 Ford Explorer V6. I apologize for not having better verbage but any help is greatly appreciated.

Summation:
No air from vents unless manually pushing arm (unsure of problem part)
Loud clicking (blend door actuator needs replacing?)
I only get cold air (I'm guessing the blend door is stuck in one position).

 

[fireball 440]

You're screwing with the wrong actuator. The one you are playing with is the vent/defrost/floor actuator. The hot/cold actuator is what this thread is about. Look them up of rockauto.com and you'll see both of them.

 

[Ajax1960]

very helpful saved as ton of time

 

[jamespz03]

You're screwing with the wrong actuator. The one you are playing with is the vent/defrost/floor actuator. The hot/cold actuator is what this thread is about. Look them up of rockauto.com and you'll see both of them.

Thank you!!

 

[renaissanceman]

I have an offer on the table in another thread to rebuild actuators for up to three people free of charge for beta testing of new parts. First come, first serve, PM if interested!

 

[Redraven571]

Hi! I registered just to say "Thank You"! I am not someone who normally does my own auto repairs but I just finished repairing my son's 2003 Explorer for $50 for the part and another $20 for a deep 10mm socket and 6 inch extension so WAAAYYYYY less than I was quoted locally, and I didn't need to cut the dash, managed to wiggle the part out and the new one in. So, again, thank you soon much!

 

[Wolfster001]

Why did you cut the panel with a utility knife for??? I replaced 2 of them and didn't have too. you can pry it up some you don't have to cut it... sorry to sound rude, I watched over a dozen videos on you tube before I was comfortable to actually do it for myself...
also if you moved the first part of the duct it would have given you lots more room as well...

 

[sabasigh]

I replaced my '05 Explorer's blend door at 108k miles. Now at 165k i heard this tapping or clicking behind the dash. Idling, driving...didn't matter. Couldn't locate it. Had the fan turned off and the temp dial to HOT.

Revved the engine and seems the tapping got louder, not necessarily faster. Today i took off the center panel, removed the radio and drove into work...so i had no heat. Also no sound ever came up. No clue what's going on. Will hook up the HVAC stuff for the drive home.

 

[Jason72]

Thank you so much for the detailed guide, it was a huge help in tackling this long put off job today.

I did try for a good while to get the old actuator out without cutting the dash, but never got close. I especially didn't want to try cramming the new one in and risk damaging it so I cut. Once you are done you can only tell it's been cut if you have your head near floor level.

 

[Number Twelve]

Just stopping by to say Thanks.

Being a single man in Florida, I don't need to bring in, "fresh air" with a heat index of 90+ degrees so I Frisbeed the flap, sealed the intake, jammed the other flaps into , "Max Cool" position, and ran a screw into their pivot points. I always drive the car from the front seat so I jammed a sock in the cold air pipe to the second row (inside the center console). I couldn't figure out how to jam the rear air temp modulator, so I disconnected the hot water pipes and the wires to the motor. Now I have dual air in Florida. The front heat works. When the one day a year that needs defrost happens, I will find out if that works.

Eliminating another of the Dealership ransomed, captive parts controlled, over priced, over-designed, not working systems.

 

[Tankentaisha]

I just fixed mine after two months without heat! First time was the worst, I think it was about 16 degrees out, so not too bad, but after 50 miles of driving, I was pretty cold.

I went ahead and cut as much of the dash as I could without it showing and just used the saw blade on my Leatherman. Even before putting things back together you have to look really close to even tell I did it as I cut about 6" so there's no notch.

The worst of it for me was the top screw and with the two bottom screws on each side of the actuating arm, I just left the top one out.

Great to have heat again, now that the snow's all gone!

 

[renaissanceman]

Rebuild kit available!

Looks like you can get the gear only and save $$$ now!

http://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Rebuild-Lincoln-Mercury-1990-2012/dp/B01FIIWM90/

or eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182120579591

Hope that helps someone as the weather gets hotter and we all need A/C more than ever!

 

[Goga]

Прекрасный,познавательный отчет! Завтра буду менять на своей машине по Вашей инструкции. Спасибо.