Ryan's 5.0l Ranger swap

[TheStig365]

Hi everyone, I will be using this thread to document my progress on swapping the 5.0l and all necessary components from a 1999 Explorer Limited AWD into my 2000 Ranger 4.0 OHV. I also plan on asking questions here as this community is full of information. Stay tuned for details!

 

[TheStig365]

First picture is the truck that will be getting the new drivetrain, started life as a 3.0l auto before I bought it in 2014. The truck came into my hands with a 4.0l OHV auto, didn't know that wasn't the original motor till a year later, also found out the miles were rolled back . So the odometer says 152,000 but I have no idea what is the true mileage. Alright enough back story and onto the good stuff.

Before I started the thread I bought a 1999 Explorer 5.0l AWD as the donor vehicle for swapping the various parts to my truck. I pulled the motor, the transmission/transfer case.

For this swap the plans are:
Full rebuild motor
Use explorer motor mounts, radiator, computer etc
Wanted a 5 speed but auto will have to do right now
Ditch AWD and go with a BW4406 electric
Make BW4406 fit
Try to use headers (Hedman 88400) (fingers crossed)
Also swap in power leather seats and center console as a little icing on the cake

Current motor status

The headers that I am hopefully gonna see fit. If they need slight modification, which already I know they do because I have gt40p heads, I'm not opposed to but if they aren't even close, I'll just cut my losses.

 

[Josh P]

5.0L is a good motor. I'd like to do this swap into my 87 ranger.

 

[boominXplorer]

I have an 01 swapped 5.0 ranger and will tell you from experience only headers made for the explorer 5.0 will fit. Bw4406 manual shift fits no problem.

 

[TheStig365]

I have an 01 swapped 5.0 ranger and will tell you from experience only headers made for the explorer 5.0 will fit. Bw4406 manual shift fits no problem.

That's what I was afraid of but I'm not afraid of a little custom work. Plan B will be to wait until torque monster headers or something similar become available again.

 

[boominXplorer]

It's tight and unless you have a full width solid axle swap with the steering box outside the frame it's going to be a big pain to make out the box headers work. I have the discontinued FMS headers on my ranger.

 

[TheStig365]

Apologies for the being off for so long. I have been extremely busy with work.
Swap update: I have finally finished media blasting (our sand blaster is a cheap pos) all the aluminum parts (intakes, brackets, adapters etc) and will have pictures and start painting them soon. Tomorrow morning I will being going to the local you pull it junkyard in the search for a transfercase, driveshafts, two lower intake studs and a starter solenoid.
Also thanks for the tip on headers boominXplorer, I'll see what I can do with what I have.

 

[TheStig365]

Swap update: Have a bw4406 finally, got lower intake studs and a front driveshaft. I need a starter solenoid and rear driveshaft still, also found out I need a transmission coolant line because my idiot friend kinked one shut and didn't tell me. Other then these minor things I believe the motor is basically ready to go in. I finished painting my brackets and intakes but I am having problems posting pictures to show you guys at the moment. This weekend I'll be pulling everything from my ranger to make way for the new drive train. I also am in the process of putting in the power leather seats and full size explorer center console that has a message center. I don't think I am going to put the message center in because it looks extremely complicated but still going forward with the center console. I have to mount the rear bracket and drill some holes but other than that I'm pretty sure it will fit. I need to look up some pin/wire diagrams for the center console blower and power seats so I know which wires I need to use. Getting ever so close to finishing.

 

[TheStig365]

I almost forgot, do you guys recommend moving the drive train over to the passenger side the 1/2 inch or trimming the tabs of the bw4406 to make the clearance between the frame rail? I appreciate the expertise from you explorerers.

 

[boominXplorer]

I trimmed the tabs and moved the trans mount over. I think I just slotted the holes to slide the trans sideways after getting it in. I think driveshaft to gastank clearance was my concern.

 

[TheStig365]

I trimmed the tabs and moved the trans mount over. I think I just slotted the holes to slide the trans sideways after getting it in. I think driveshaft to gastank clearance was my concern.

Interesting, For now I think I'll trim the tabs because that looks like it would open up a decent amount of room between the frame rail and the tcase. I'll report back if it fits or not when I stuff her in there this weekend or the next.

 

[boominXplorer]

Here's the best pic I have of shaft clearance. I'm pretty sure I moved it over when I did the initial swsp. The pic is from when I did a cam swap after the build had about 15k on it.

 

[TheStig365]

Thanks for the picture, that truck frame looks really clean, nice work. I am definitely curious on how it will fit in my application.

 

[boominXplorer]

Thanks. Everything will bolt right in, it's the outer ring at the slip yoke I had concerns with against the gas tank . I recommend using the factory motor and trans mounts before using a cheap aftermarket mount. There are no bolt in "upgraded" mounts for this application.

 

[TheStig365]

Okay, I am planning on using the factory Explorer motor and transmission mounts.

 

[TheStig365]

Swap update: I have the drivetrain 90 % of the way into the truck. The motor is bolted in and almost buttoned up all the way. The transmission is in but needs the filter changed the bw4406 is almost in, it clears the frame rail but there is a rather large body plug that comes into the cabin of the truck under the drivers seat that the transfer case comes into contact with. My solution was to dissemble the plug, make a bracket and relocate the plug higher into the cabin by approximately half an inch. I will take a picture of that when it is complete. My interior is ripped apart for the new explorer seats, full size console, pats swap and to interchange some wires so that the tachometer will be accurate. I need to run wires for the center console and seats as well as make brackets to bolt the explorer seat belt slides to the floor.
Picture of what i have assembled in the engine bay:

Status of the interior (rug is pulled up to access plug that is interfering with the new transfer case:

 

[TheStig365]

I almost forgot, I am having trouble locating a home for a plug in my engine bay. Its a rather large plug the has seven wires going into it. The female end is on the 5.0l explorer engine wiring harness and the male end is on the explorer headlight/front accessory harness near where the abs module plugs into. I really need help with this, if you guys new what the plug is for or what the wires go to or at least give me a push into the right direction so I can find an answer, I assume that since it plugs into the engine harness that it is for sensors located on the engine but past that I'm pretty much clueless.

Pics of the plug:

 

[TheStig365]

Correction: the plug has 6 wires running through it, I don't an evtm so any help is useful help.

 

[TheStig365]

Update: plug problem fixed, Jerry rigged some wires up for it. Not going into too much detail unless someone asks as it will take awhile to explain. Now when I go to start the truck it will crank but makes a terribly loud slapping noise and I also have no spark. Have fuel pressure at the relief valve. I could really use some input

 

[TheStig365]

Update: I 'd still like a pinout for that plug, I can't seem to find it anywhere online for the life of me. I have a feeling that the plug is responsible for preventing the truck from starting