RUSTY WATER PUMP BOLTS & Timing Cover Coolant leak

[BUXTER]

- LESSON here guys is when u pull Water Pump & see rust damaged fasteners at the 'ears" of Water Pump its NOT because the water from Water Pump weep hole ran UPHILL & did that - Its because u have Coolant leak at the Gasket between Timing Cover & Motor thats secured by the Water Pump "Ear Fasteners" - AND maybe a leaky Water Pump.... so call Time Out & PULL TIMING COVER - Unless u like tons of REWORK. - I did Water Pump, all new Hoses, new Radiator, Electric Fan, new Thermostat & Housing... & After all that I had this VERY intermittent leak I could never find that AINT intermittent anymore... When u cut car off it leaks until pressure vents down - I still have not seen the pinpoint source of leak but its coming fm front of Pass Side Head area for sure - I'm a dummy for NOT replacing Timing Cover Gasket when I did Water Pump~!

 

[Mbrooks420]

If the water pump was off, then yes, you should have replaced the timing cover gasket. Look for the least with a pressure tester.

 

[BUXTER]

It only had 75K miles on it so I 'went for it"... BIG mistake - My system so tight it IS a Pressure Tester ~! - Thanx so much for the quick reply & have a great weekend.

 

[BUXTER]

Found a couple related Water Pump Threads... NONE which said Pull Timing Cover too BTW - Watched a couple Timing Cover Videos but we have no specific Tech Article I could find - Not that bad, my 2 Row Rad easy to pull as no Trans Cooler lines anymore & I also did away with the AC Condenser Clips when I installed new Rad & Condenser (last month~!) - No need to pull any Accessory Brackets on this 2001 - Drained Oil & left Drain Plug out just in case - & YES as soon as I loosened the Water Fasteners at Pass Side Coolant Passage Coolant leaked in EXACT same path as before so that was the leak.

 

[BUXTER]

All loose except Harmonic Balancer, gotta borrow Puller off buddy, OBVIOUSLY I did one way Loan of mine at some point - SO>>> what's the deal on verifying Timing Chain & Sprockets are good while I'm in here____?? Its double Row right so good for "lifetime"_____ ?? - 95K miles & runs great~!

 

[mrjody]

All loose except Harmonic Balancer, gotta borrow Puller off buddy, OBVIOUSLY I did one way Loan of mine at some point - SO>>> what's the deal on verifying Timing Chain & Sprockets are good while I'm in here____?? Its double Row right so good for "lifetime"_____ ?? - 95K miles & runs great~!

Well... if it was me, and yourerein there, and have the extra money... id.put a new one on there if you plan on keeping g the truck.

 

[410Fortune]

with 95K miles should be fine
BUT a timing set is like what $50?

Before you go parts shopping make sure you get the old timing cover off.... this way if you break any bolts you can get replacements or extractors
You will need a new front main seal as well as the new timing cover gasket.
The timing cover and oil pan gaskets "meet" so you will have to cut your old oil pan gasket out and install the new section which should come with your timing cover gasket kit....

 

[Mbrooks420]

If you’re going to buy a excellent timing set replace it. If you’re getting a bargain item, leave the factory one.

 

[BUXTER]

Hypoid Timing Chain in great condition not Double Roller.
U have to love a Cover with 13 fasteners of 12 types... its like a Fastener "smorgasbord".
U need 8mm Thread Bolts for Puller & Tap to clean Threads in Harmonic Balancer.
U need 5/16-18 Bottom Tap to clean Threads in Block.
Ur collection of old Serpentine Belt Pulleys comes in handy for supporting Timing cover when removing & installing new Seal.
Leave oil Drain Plug out as u are going to get some Anti Freeze & stuff in Oil Pan even with shielding it - I will flush Oil Pan w Kerosene right before I put Timing Cover on.
Before u go back with Cover Mock up the install w/ no Gasket & no Seal & verify locale of every Fastener FIRST.
I'm NOT trimming my Reusable Ford Oil Pan Gasket to install Cork junk in Kit.
24mm OR 15/16 Socket fits Crank Bolt.

 

[allmyEXes]

The old 289s and 302s suffered from the same stuck/rusty/broken bolt issues as the 5.0s do in the water pump/timing cover area. @BUXTER The bolts in those early engines were 5/16 18s. Did the 5.0s change to 3/8s? I havn't taken my '97 5.0 apart yet.

 

[410Fortune]

10mm and 13mm on the explorer 5.0

 

[BUXTER]

The old 289s and 302s suffered from the same stuck/rusty/broken bolt issues as the 5.0s do in the water pump/timing cover area. @BUXTER The bolts in those early engines were 5/16 18s. Did the 5.0s change to 3/8s? I havn't taken my '97 5.0 apart yet.

yup... Timing Cover Threads in Block are good old American 5/16 UNC... had to get out my magnifying glass on Tap~!

 

[blakshukvw]

- LESSON here guys is when u pull Water Pump & see rust damaged fasteners at the 'ears" of Water Pump its NOT because the water from Water Pump weep hole ran UPHILL & did that - Its because u have Coolant leak at the Gasket between Timing Cover & Motor thats secured by the Water Pump "Ear Fasteners" - AND maybe a leaky Water Pump.... so call Time Out & PULL TIMING COVER - Unless u like tons of REWORK. - I did Water Pump, all new Hoses, new Radiator, Electric Fan, new Thermostat & Housing... & After all that I had this VERY intermittent leak I could never find that AINT intermittent anymore... When u cut car off it leaks until pressure vents down - I still have not seen the pinpoint source of leak but its coming fm front of Pass Side Head area for sure - I'm a dummy for NOT replacing Timing Cover Gasket when I did Water Pump~!

They always leak right under the thermostat housing behind the timing cover.