Damaged Fuse Box, no Ignition Power! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Damaged Fuse Box, no Ignition Power!

jvcalvin

Member
Joined
July 6, 2020
Messages
24
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City, State
Puyallup
Year, Model & Trim Level
2017 Ford Explorer PIU
Hi Guys,

I have a 2017 Explorer PIU with its stock center console wiring cut out during decommissioning.

I accidentally partially drilled through the cabin fuse box as well as the power wire to it while drilling a hole through the firewall to install an inverter. I entered the fuse box in between fuse 4 and 5, toward the direction of fuse 26 and 27. Many of the metal pieces fell down further into the fuse box. I didn't realize that I had drilled into the fuse box, and hooked up the battery again after installing the inverter.

When I put the key into the ignition, it is as if it doesn't recognize that it is there. It doesn't turn on accessory when I change the key position. I checked fuse 18 for Ignition Switch and Key Inhibit, which was blown. After replacing the fuse and trying to start the car again, it blew the new fuse. Then I discovered the fuse box being drilled through. The power wire that connects to the top right of the fuse box was partially drilled through (about 10%?). I replaced the fuse box with another 2017 explorer one, and wrapped the partially damaged power wire with electrical tape.

Before replacing the damaged fuse box, I was able to remote start the vehicle. The ABS, Service AdvanceTrac System, amongst other codes popped up and stayed on during the remote start process. When I put the key into the ignition, it did not shut off the remote start, until I hit the brake. Then, it seems when the stock system had to keep the ignition running, it shut off. I had the battery disconnected for about 7 days while waiting for the new fuse box. The vehicle will no longer remote start with the new fuse box. I believe that I need to tune the Voxx Prestige model again for that function to work. Now, with only the battery connected, I only get power to fuses 13, 32 and 33 continuously in the cabin fuse box. All other fuses are unpowered. I am unable to lock the doors, operate windows, turn on interior lights, et cetera. When I attempt to remote start the vehicle, other fuses intermittently gain power. The wires connected from the voxx module to the key ignition all have power.

All of the fuses in the engine bay are good, except for 60 and 55, which are supposedly unused. Voxx's module is tapped directly into a wiring harness, so I don't think these 2 blown fuses would have anything to do with it? I tested the Powertrain Control Module Relay as well as the 7 other relays by swapping in relays from my other explorer. With the relays individually swapped out, the vehicle displayed no change in behavior. All of the fuses in the cabin fuse box are good, including 18 which was blowing before the fuse box replacement.

Ultimately, I'm afraid that when I drilled through the fuse box, pieces of metal fell down and completed high amp circuits while bypassing their fuses, thereby damaging modules throughout the vehicle. I'm afraid that all of the codes popped up are all individual modules that are fried.

I'm going to check next to make sure that the key ignition has power, as well as to reprogram the Voxx module in an attempt to be able to remort start it again.

Does anyone have any insight into this? Otherwise, I might have to sell a kidney to pay the dealership.

Thank you in advance guys!!
 



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If the 'power wire" you are referring to is the main power supply cable/harness then I think that is the place to start. If there are damaged wires in that cable/harness it is likely going to cause issues with certain features/modules. The fact that a replacement fuse blew probably indicates that there could be a short somewhere.

Peter
 






Hey Peter,

Thanks for helping me out. The power wire I nicked is the one that goes from the main fuse box to the cabin fuse box. If I had to guess, it's an 8 gauge or so. It's red, and connects as a harness to the top right portion of the cabin fuse box. Where the cable was nicked, a smaller 18 or so gauge part of the copper cable was sticking out. That individual copper strand was a braid comprised of lots of tiny copper strands. As it looked, I had removed approximately 10-15% of copper at the deepest point of the cut.

From my basic understanding, I wouldn't think that a relatively minor cut would overall reduce the cable's ability to conduct the required amperage through the remaining material. Perhaps the irregularity would cause a hertz frequency change that would disrupt certain modules?

Regarding the blown fuse, I think it is possible that copper strand sticking out of the power wire may have been grounding. The fuse no longer blows when I hook up the battery or attempt to remote start it. If it did ground, what could that damage?
 






Update:

I pulled the ignition out. The harness has 5 wires, one being a pair of two small ones. None of the 6 wires were receiving power. I turned the ignition to the run position, and there was still no power to the wires. After I tried to remote start the car, power came on for 3 of the wires. After the accessory mode timed out, the power stopped to the ignition.

Should the ignition wires have continuous power? If the power is not continuous, what other modules in the car can turn ignition power on and off through a relay? Fuse slot #14 in the engine fuse box is a large grey square relay. It's labeled the Body Control Module relay. Does this relay control the power sent to ignition? It might make sense to me, as it is the closest relay to the 8 gauge power wire that connects both fuse boxes together.

I am also worried that I could have fried the ECU. I have a Check Engine light, ABS light, Traction Control light, and a Traction Control Disabled light on when I attempt to remote start the vehicle. The only alert that pops up is the Service AdvanceTrac System notification. If the ECU were fried, could the Voxx Prestige remote start system successfully turn over the engine? As well, does the ECU act as a relay for accessory power to certain modules such as the ignition?
 






Update:

I pulled the ignition out. The harness has 5 wires, one being a pair of two small ones. None of the 6 wires were receiving power. I turned the ignition to the run position, and there was still no power to the wires. After I tried to remote start the car, power came on for 3 of the wires. After the accessory mode timed out, the power stopped to the ignition.

Should the ignition wires have continuous power? If the power is not continuous, what other modules in the car can turn ignition power on and off through a relay? Fuse slot #14 in the engine fuse box is a large grey square relay. It's labeled the Body Control Module relay. Does this relay control the power sent to ignition? It might make sense to me, as it is the closest relay to the 8 gauge power wire that connects both fuse boxes together.

I am also worried that I could have fried the ECU. I have a Check Engine light, ABS light, Traction Control light, and a Traction Control Disabled light on when I attempt to remote start the vehicle. The only alert that pops up is the Service AdvanceTrac System notification. If the ECU were fried, could the Voxx Prestige remote start system successfully turn over the engine? As well, does the ECU act as a relay for accessory power to certain modules such as the ignition?
I'm afraid that most of those questions are beyond my scope of knowledge on the explorer wiring. It sounds like a wiring diagram would help. I believe some members may have those but I don't know if the PIU is the same as the retail unit.

Peter
 






The BCM needs to have the same firmware as the original and be programmed (as built) to your vehicle. If you took one from a civilian Explorer, it likely is not a match.
 






The BCM needs to have the same firmware as the original and be programmed (as built) to your vehicle. If you took one from a civilian Explorer, it likely is not a match.

I replaced the fuse box in the cabin, not the BCM. Do you think the BCM would need to be calibrated to a new fuse box?
 






Bcm and fuse box under the driver side kick panel are one in the same.
 






And also a brand new BCM for ordered just for your vehicle is under $200. Programming it might cost some though.
 












And also a brand new BCM for ordered just for your vehicle is under $200. Programming it might cost some though.

Wow, good to know. I'm hitting up the dealership to see how much it'll cost to program the BCM.
Do you remember where was selling the new BCM's?
 






Wow, good to know. I'm hitting up the dealership to see how much it'll cost to program the BCM.
Do you remember where was selling the new BCM's?
From a Ford Parts dept. You may consider getting a used one from same year PIU with the same motor, etc. It should be setup pretty close and wouldn't require much programming. Watch out though, recyclers tend to think some of their parts are worth more than new prices. I have seen that many times.
 






After calling Ford, you can get a new BCM for $230. It costs another $140 to program it. From what it seems, the BCM I installed should work once it is able to be tuned.

I had a mobile locksmith come out to do the BCU programming, but there wasn't power for him to be able to do the tune.

I believe I've found the wiring diagram for my Prestige remote start. The Prestige model appears to be APSRS3Z. I pulled out the 6 pin connector to the module to see if I could use a jumper to enable accessory or ignition power, but was unable to. I'm now thinking that perhaps the remote start module got fried, and am trying to figure out a way to test it. I haven't tested the relay for the remote start system yet.
 






What programming is a locksmith going to do? keys? The utility doesn't need keys prorgammed.
 






What programming is a locksmith going to do? keys? The utility doesn't need keys prorgammed.

From what I understand, they are able to program the BCM and PCM to communicate together through the OBD2 port. They are also able to disable the PEPS system.
 






No offense but I don't think you understand what needs to be done. Your vehicle doesn't have peps, it doesn't even have a chipped (immobilzer) key and the BCM and PCM already talk to each other over the can bus.

I have never heard of a locksmith doing dealer type firmware and as built programming on a BCM.
 






No offense but I don't think you understand what needs to be done. Your vehicle doesn't have peps, it doesn't even have a chipped (immobilzer) key and the BCM and PCM already talk to each other over the can bus.

I have never heard of a locksmith doing dealer type firmware and as built programming on a BCM.

Yep, that's why I'm here. The dealership says that the firmware needs to be updated for the new BCM, despite not having chipped keys. The locksmith company sure thought that they provided the service, but I won't be able to see until I fix the electrical problem at hand.
 






I would go to the dealership for guidance. Honestly the bcm if not programmed properly, you are really shooting in the dark. Remove the voxx unit and set back to factory. The dealership wants stock and it will be cheaper in the long run. You have severally damaged potentially multiple items with your drilling.
 






So far, it looks like the remote start module is still working. The problem seems to be that continuous power is not being sent through the wiring harness to the ignition. I provided direct power to the ignition, while also turning on accessory power, but it still doesn't start. It seems like perhaps the starter relay isn't being engaged when the ignition is turned.
 



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You should get the proper BCM in there but at a minimum it needs to be programmed properly. That is your problem!
 






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