Quick Question

[ChrisEmbry]

I've mated my transmission and motor to my 2005 ford explorer successfully.I now have to torque the torque converter bolts.When i put the SUV in neutral and spin the motor by hand using a ratchet.I noticed that it take a little more muscle power to spin the motor.When it spins over manually,There is no grinding sounds and i do hear air coming out of the exhaust.There is no spark plugs in the motor.

So my question for others that have done this.


Is that normal?

I am just wanting to make sure my paranoia is not valid

 

[shane10]

Late reply here, I'm sure you have things figured out by now. If I am reading your question correctly, it's totally normal for the "air" sound to come over while turning manually. It's going through the compression cycle, if you were to put your hand over the spark plug holes, you would feel it.
Hope you have everything running by now

 

[ChrisEmbry]

Late reply here, I'm sure you have things figured out by now. If I am reading your question correctly, it's totally normal for the "air" sound to come over while turning manually. It's going through the compression cycle, if you were to put your hand over the spark plug holes, you would feel it.
Hope you have everything running by now

Got the motor mounted to the transmission. All parts are bolted including the starter and all fluids.

Only issue i am having is when i go to turn the motor over to engage the flywheel. The starter spins but does not engage the flywheel


I took the starter out and did a test to engage the Bendix and that comes out. But when install the starter back in all it does is spin.

I also can manually turn the motor over when i remove the belt as well with the starter removed. I have not tried to turn the motor over manually with the starter still bolted in.


I did put a test light to the starter tiny wire and had someone turn the key and that light goes off. I also check the fuses under the hood and the one under the driver seat.


Not sure what is causing this issue,


Any tips are ideas would be helpful

 

[shane10]

Got the motor mounted to the transmission. All parts are bolted including the starter and all fluids.

Only issue i am having is when i go to turn the motor over to engage the flywheel. The starter spins but does not engage the flywheel


I took the starter out and did a test to engage the Bendix and that comes out. But when install the starter back in all it does is spin.

I also can manually turn the motor over when i remove the belt as well with the starter removed. I have not tried to turn the motor over manually with the starter still bolted in.


I did put a test light to the starter tiny wire and had someone turn the key and that light goes off. I also check the fuses under the hood and the one under the driver seat.


Not sure what is causing this issue,


Any tips are ideas would be helpful

So basically you are dealing with a crank - no start? Having a hard time visualizing this.
I'm assuming you pulled the motor, and not the trans correct? Is this a 4.0 or 4.6?
What repairs were made in the first place?

 

[ChrisEmbry]

So basically you are dealing with a crank - no start? Having a hard time visualizing this.
I'm assuming you pulled the motor, and not the trans correct? Is this a 4.0 or 4.6?
What repairs were made in the first place?

I pulled the motor you are correct, I left the transmission connected.

the motor is 4.0 V6 SOHC motor.

As for motors repair I will list them in order.


Replace the entire timing chain set with FORD OEM even every bolt that came for the timing. Including the bolts for the balance shaft as well.

Bought the correct tool for the timing the motor as well.


Had the blocked bored and honed.
Installed oversized pistons and connecting pins, And matching rings .Due to me cracking a piston head when I was trying to install the new rings.

Replace the crankshaft with reman one, All new bearings and connecting rods bolts and nuts.

Went with new oil pump and aftermarket screen as well.


Had to replace both camshafts due to pitted parts. Also replace all the hydraulic values as well. I replace the cylinder head bolts as well.

I did a leak test on the value and seals for the head and no leaks. So I did not go with rebuilt heads for now.

I even bought the ford OEM harmonic balancer and bolt as well.


Starter is brand new, I bought that in February when I thought the started went out. Come to find out the motor was seized in my 2005 ford explorer.


Now this motor I described above is a 2003 ford explorer that I removed and did the rebuild one minus the engine hone and bored. So after doing all that work. I finally got the motor mated to the 2005 ford explorer transmission and now am running into the issue with CRANK NO START.


Hope this helps

 

[shane10]

I pulled the motor you are correct, I left the transmission connected.

the motor is 4.0 V6 SOHC motor.

As for motors repair I will list them in order.


Replace the entire timing chain set with FORD OEM even every bolt that came for the timing. Including the bolts for the balance shaft as well.

Bought the correct tool for the timing the motor as well.


Had the blocked bored and honed.
Installed oversized pistons and connecting pins, And matching rings .Due to me cracking a piston head when I was trying to install the new rings.

Replace the crankshaft with reman one, All new bearings and connecting rods bolts and nuts.

Went with new oil pump and aftermarket screen as well.


Had to replace both camshafts due to pitted parts. Also replace all the hydraulic values as well. I replace the cylinder head bolts as well.

I did a leak test on the value and seals for the head and no leaks. So I did not go with rebuilt heads for now.

I even bought the ford OEM harmonic balancer and bolt as well.


Starter is brand new, I bought that in February when I thought the started went out. Come to find out the motor was seized in my 2005 ford explorer.


Now this motor I described above is a 2003 ford explorer that I removed and did the rebuild one minus the engine hone and bored. So after doing all that work. I finally got the motor mated to the 2005 ford explorer transmission and now am running into the issue with CRANK NO START.


Hope this helps

It doesn't sound like a starter issue at all to me (especially given that it's new). I know you said you checked all fuses/relays, have you gone over ALL electrical and vacuum lines to make sure you didn't miss anything? Possibly a ground wire that got knocked loose?
If the timing is correct, and everything is installed/plugged in the only things I could think of are spark/fuel, have you confirmed both of these?
Another thing, you're sure the torque converter was seated properly, with the studs pulled all the way through the flex plate?
Sorry I can't be more of a direct help, there's so many things it could be. I know the frustration, I did a similar rebuild earlier this year, started her up and didn't have reverse and barely any power in drive. Ended up being a single relay that was unplugged, hopefully your issue turns out to be as simple as mine.

 

[ChrisEmbry]

It doesn't sound like a starter issue at all to me (especially given that it's new). I know you said you checked all fuses/relays, have you gone over ALL electrical and vacuum lines to make sure you didn't miss anything? Possibly a ground wire that got knocked loose?
If the timing is correct, and everything is installed/plugged in the only things I could think of are spark/fuel, have you confirmed both of these?
Another thing, you're sure the torque converter was seated properly, with the studs pulled all the way through the flex plate?
Sorry I can't be more of a direct help, there's so many things it could be. I know the frustration, I did a similar rebuild earlier this year, started her up and didn't have reverse and barely any power in drive. Ended up being a single relay that was unplugged, hopefully your issue turns out to be as simple as mine.

I have all grounds install correctly. The braided one from the firewall is to the back of the passenger side cylinder head.

I do not have the spark plug in, I did that so I can manually bump the motor to prime the oil pump.

I do have fuel as I had a leak when i went to first fire over the motor. Took off the intake and then fix that issue.


The torque convertor was seated properly and not sure what you mean by " studs pulled all the way through the flex plate?"

My flex plate did not have any bolt hole for the torque convertor to slide thru


Only thing i am thinking is maybe it has to do with the anti theft system be out of wacked. When I was doing this whole rebuild i rewove the bulldog remote start someone install as i did not have the key fob to use it. So I simply remove the device and wires.


Not sure if that can be the issue as i am not seeing any pats lights.

I will take a video of what is happening and post that video link on here for you all see.

 

[ChrisEmbry]

@shane10
As promised here is the video of the issue ,I am having

 

[ChrisEmbry]

Don't believe it is the starter, will be pull the motor and see if I installed the flex plate and fly wheel wrong. I did notice when I remove the starter that there was some shaved metal on the side of the flywheel where the starter is suppose to engage the flywheel. I will post pics as soon as I have it out

 

[ChrisEmbry]

This is flex plate teeth image as promised. I see no teeth missing at all. My Only concerning is that according to PARTS.FORD.COM. My flywheel look different. I added a image to that flex plate

I took the motor out and check the flex plate teeth. All looks good on that issue. Can manually turn the motor over and that feels all smooth As you can see in the video the Torque Convertor is spinning freely, Cannot remove it but it could be me Not sure what is causing this issue, Any tips are ideas would be helpful VIA the comment section below.

I also added a video below to show u guys what i was meaning

 

[kydirtscooter]

What is the dimension with drive gear starter extended and depth of ring gear? Did you compare the engineering or part numbers of the two flexplates?

Sounds right now like the two are not meshing correctly especially when you mentioned shaved metal.

As long as the when the torque converter met the flexplate you could still easily rotate the converter independent of the flexplate and there was a tiny bit of clearance that is good. A binding converter is not good.

 

[ChrisEmbry]

What is the dimension with drive gear starter extended and depth of ring gear? Did you compare the engineering or part numbers of the two flexplates?

Sounds right now like the two are not meshing correctly especially when you mentioned shaved metal.

As long as the when the torque converter met the flexplate you could still easily rotate the converter independent of the flexplate and there was a tiny bit of clearance that is good. A binding converter is not good.

I am not sure how to check the dimension with the drive starter gear.

As for the flex plate issue. I went to the parts.ford site and type in my VIN and the second image i posted is what they are showing as my flex plate. However the second image is different from one the that is mounted to the motor.


Torque convertor seems to be good and moves with any resistance at all.

I am leaning that i maybe the flexplate is wrong but not sure it is that,

The image with the current flexplate is from 2003 ford explorer 4.0 V6,And i am installing that into a 2005 ford explorer 4.0 V6


Did you happen to check out both video's @kydirtscooter

 

[ChrisEmbry]

2005 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC PaceSetter 72C1387 Armor Coat Exhaust Header Cold Start. This is without the magnaflow exhaust fully connected. This cold start is with the only the 02 sensors exhaust pipes connected. However i will be taking her back out to replace a gasket as she has leak in the rear of the motor Enjoy