1995 Ford Explorer No Power to wiper relays. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

1995 Ford Explorer No Power to wiper relays.

1khud

Member
Joined
November 15, 2020
Messages
29
Reaction score
1
Location
PA - Pennsylvania
City, State
Punxsutawney PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 Ford Explorer XLT
I have been monkeying with this since November. Everybody and their brother claims it's this or that well I FINALLY figured out that there is NO POWER going to the 2 wiper relays under the hood. There's power to all the other relays and fuses under the hood and fuses inside have power. It's only the wiper relays. Relays are good according to relay tester just No Power when they are put back in. Ugh I know it's wiring but it can't be that hard can it? I've trac4d the problem and that is my outcome anybody know what to do because I sure don't.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Both wiper run and wiper hi/lo relay are powered by fuse 16, 30A, in the IP fuse panel, and is only HOT in ACC or RUN position of ign. switch. If the key is not "ON" no power will be at the number 16, 30A fuse.
 






If it's not the fuse #16 already mentioned, check continuity between the wire from it to the relay, or since they appear to be in the same box, is there some metal rail instead of wire? I'd then check the fuse and relay socket contacts for corrosion.

I'd also wonder if your wiper motor has failed (or can the linkage seize up instead of just breaking apart?) and that caused the fuse to blow.

Clearly the no power to relays is the place to start, but I don't know how your relay tester works, so if there is any doubt (like if they energize but the contacts are fouled so can't pass significant current) you might try swapping one of the other relays into their positions. The relays for A/C, starter, horn, etc in the same box, appear to be same type of relay.
 






If it's not the fuse #16 already mentioned, check continuity between the wire from it to the relay, or since they appear to be in the same box, is there some metal rail instead of wire? I'd then check the fuse and relay socket contacts for corrosion.

I'd also wonder if your wiper motor has failed (or can the linkage seize up instead of just breaking apart?) and that caused the fuse to blow.

Clearly the no power to relays is the place to start, but I don't know how your relay tester works, so if there is any doubt (like if they energize but the contacts are fouled so can't pass significant current) you might try swapping one of the other relays into their positions. The relays for A/C, starter, horn, etc in the same box, appear to be same type of relay.
Thanks for the reply. I did swap the relays and even bought 2 new ones. Went to salvage yard and have spares I got from there along with thise two diodes because if thise ever went bad I woukdnt know where to get them. Before I get a dufferent GEM Id like to figure out why only those 2 relays have no power. My relay tester is You put the relay in the tester. Once I put it back in there's no power when using meter. Only those two relays. The wiper motor works. I have 2 others. The one the guy I bought explorer from sent claiming the motor was bad but with a hot wire the motor thats in it is good. So it's definitely no power to the lower half of relay box. I will check the inside contacts but anyone know which wires from GEM would control those relays?
 






Both wiper run and wiper hi/lo relay are powered by fuse 16, 30A, in the IP fuse panel, and is only HOT in ACC or RUN position of ign. switch. If the key is not "ON" no power will be at the number 16, 30A fuse.
I do put the key on. I checked the wiper harness pins with a meter and I'm getting power and ground no park lo hi or intermittent in the wiring harness using a test light and meter. And I turn the combo atm switch into the right positions. Akready wasted $30 on a new combo arm.As stated I've been looking at diagrams and testing when the weather warrants it.I have a Ford 1995 wiring and vacuum diagram Huge Manual. It has everything I need ti know fuse and relay numbers and locations. I'm just stumped. I took it to a mechanic and he doesnt want to get involved. I originally took it to his dad who is my dad's mechanic 5 minutes after I bought it and his diagnosis was there is nothing wring with motor that it's the wiring at the fuse block. Which one I do not know. But because I have power to fuses in the both fuse blocks when using test light and neter but no power to relays with meter and test light then I am asduming it's from tbe GEM to the fuse block under the hood. Im just so frustrated 3 months later I'm losing my mind and can't get a mechanic in this little town if 7000 to work on it. Body and frame are beautiful. Not a spec of rust. Only reason I bought it. The man I bought from said needed window motor and regulator and wiper motor the parts came with it. I came home and immediately put in window motor and regulator and that problem was solved. This wiper issue is a headache.
 






^ No, the GEM is not involved in the power feed to the relays except the high-low relay pin 3. It activates them, by grounding the output from the coil contact on the relay but power must already be getting to them. Perhaps I don't understand what you mean by no power getting to them.

On the picture below, you can see that direct from fuse 16, with ignition in ACC or Run, there should be 12V on pins 1 and 5 of the wiper run relay at all times, and pin 1 of the high-low relay, whether you have wipers set to run from the column stalk or not.

Do you have 12V power on these pins? If not, it is not the GEM.

When the gem gets the feedback from the stalk, it grounds Wiper Run Relay pin #2, toggles the wiper run relay on, THEN you should have power to the wiper high-low relay pin 3 but you don't really need to think about the high-low relay at all if there is no power getting to the wiper run relay.

If I am understanding your situation correctly and there is no power getting to the wiper run relay pins 1 & 5, then I would trace it as follows. First pull the fuse (or probe into the back of it if it has a slit and your probes will fit in there) and see if the hot side of the fuse contact is getting 12V. If not, you have problem there or upstream towards the battery.

If the fuse is getting 12V and is not blown, on the output side of the fuse contact, use a multimeter to check continuity between that point and wiper run relay socket pin 1 or pin 5 position. If you do have continuity, you should have 12V there. If you do not have 12V there, you have a break in the circuit between these two point, whether a wire, a metal bus bar type arrangement inside the fuse box, or a fouled socket contact.

wipers1.png
 






^ No, the GEM is not involved in the power feed to the relays except the high-low relay pin 3. It activates them, by grounding the output from the coil contact on the relay but power must already be getting to them. Perhaps I don't understand what you mean by no power getting to them.

On the picture below, you can see that direct from fuse 16, with ignition in ACC or Run, there should be 12V on pins 1 and 5 of the wiper run relay at all times, and pin 1 of the high-low relay, whether you have wipers set to run from the column stalk or not.

Do you have 12V power on these pins? If not, it is not the GEM.

When the gem gets the feedback from the stalk, it grounds Wiper Run Relay pin #2, toggles the wiper run relay on, THEN you should have power to the wiper high-low relay pin 3 but you don't really need to think about the high-low relay at all if there is no power getting to the wiper run relay.

If I am understanding your situation correctly and there is no power getting to the wiper run relay pins 1 & 5, then I would trace it as follows. First pull the fuse (or probe into the back of it if it has a slit and your probes will fit in there) and see if the hot side of the fuse contact is getting 12V. If not, you have problem there or upstream towards the battery.

If the fuse is getting 12V and is not blown, on the output side of the fuse contact, use a multimeter to check continuity between that point and wiper run relay socket pin 1 or pin 5 position. If you do have continuity, you should have 12V there. If you do not have 12V there, you have a break in the circuit between these two point, whether a wire, a metal bus bar type arrangement inside the fuse box, or a fouled socket contact.

View attachment 327366
Thank you. No.I.mran there is?ZERO POWER GOING TO THE TWO TELAYS FOR WIPER. NEITHER RELAY. THE RELAYS ARE GOOD. I HAVE TESTED THEM FOR 3 MONTH. Once I put relays back where they go and check them while in their " socket" where they go. I get nothing. A friend checked earlier was going tirun a toggle switch. No Power when relats are in the fuse block under the hood. Ok glad to know has nothing to do with GEM. Just tracing wires. I'm just gettung rid if if. I've had this since Nov 4th. No mechanic in the area will work on it. Everyone whi has looked at it keeps assuming its the motor until they jump the motor and it works. The relays act like they are bad when they are put back in the box. Take them out check they are fine. Si therefore there is an issue with something at tve fuse block.
 






Thank you. No.I.mran there is?ZERO POWER GOING TO THE TWO TELAYS FOR WIPER. NEITHER RELAY. THE RELAYS ARE GOOD. I HAVE TESTED THEM FOR 3 MONTH. Once I put relays back where they go and check them while in their " socket" where they go. I get nothing. A friend checked earlier was going tirun a toggle switch. No Power when relats are in the fuse block under the hood. Ok glad to know has nothing to do with GEM. Just tracing wires. I'm just gettung rid if if. I've had this since Nov 4th. No mechanic in the area will work on it. Everyone whi has looked at it keeps assuming its the motor until they jump the motor and it works. The relays act like they are bad when they are put back in the box. Take them out check they are fine. Si therefore there is an issue with something at the fuse block..No I.have no power to those pins.
 






Back
Top