You’re welcome for sure, and yes you’re correct on turning on some accessories to help drain the capacitors and stop the keep alive memory.
Good luck
Brad
Im really glad that you further replied and are still online with my issue ,, because i,ve got a couple of questions.
The first is about the reverse servo .;; is whole servo supposed to move freely inside the bore , back and forth a little bit , or just that little solid round pin shaft type thing , coming up through the middle ?? because if so the latter , then i could have used the new O ring and tapped it in with a rubber mallet .
Second question is about fluid level . Another test drive , 40 miles , checking periodically , this time more often,,
dipstick not too hot to touch , and fluid , is only warm . ,, but the issue is , that when i stop , and quickly check the level with the engine idling in park , the level is too low , but as truck sits there idling , and i keep checking , the fluid level starts to rise up the dipstick little by little each time i check .
This indicates to me that while the truck is running down the highway , between 100 and 110 kms /hr , 2000 and 2500 rpms , , the fluid level is dropping to below the operating limit .
If i add fluid ,, then it will read way up the dipstick , past the full limit markings on a regular check , with the truck just sitting there for a while
Last year i found out that the fluid is pumping both ways , through the return , and the send , indicating to me that the fluid will travel the path of the least resistance .
My auxiliary cooler is a plate cooler , like a radiator , ;;...kind if makes no sense to me , because it has to fill up completely , in order for the system to work properly . The only reason that they changed over to this type of cooler , is to protect the lines and fins from being damaged from rocks and such . The send line , comes down through the radiator , then it goes up into the auxiliary cooler and has to fill it completely , where as , the original coolers , before they changed , does not have to fill up , because the line remains the same , besides the fact of the reducers , giving the line a larger diameter , as it runs back and forth between the cooling fins of the cooler .
On this second highway run ,, again , it shifted from 4 to 5 speed by itself ,, and on the way back , again i had to jog the pedal ,,.
Since the rpms , are 2000 at 100 kms /hr , and 2500 at 110 kms /hr , the system is running normally and the tccc is actually working , even though the OD light is flashing . ( tcc stuck off code ) If the tcc was off , then the engine would have to rev higher to pump more fluid to move the truck at the same speed .
I wired the two battery connections together for 4 minutes with the key turned on lights heater , etc, but when i went for the drive , the light started to flash in the same area , after about 2 .5 miles in the city .
I read some where , that the battery connection trick to clear codes , should be done for at least 5 minutes .
Perhaps i did not do this for long enough . Also i read somewhere , that in some vehicles , this trick wont work , because the pcm , or tcm , have their own power cell batteries to keep their memory stored .
I am going to install the continuous line cooler and remove the plate rad type of cooler .
Last year , i blew out the fluid lines , form the top of the radiator , down - up through the auxiliary plate cooler , and out the bottom of the cooler , and after , when i drove the truck ,, very slowly , for only 4 blocks , the O.D. light started to flash . At that time , i could drive the truck around the city all day long ,, before the light would start flashing .
One more thing ,, there are no air bubbles , in the fluid on the dipstick check , indicating air lock or too much fluid , when before i did this valve body service , there were air bubbles , when i had aprox. the same amount of fluid , that i have now .
I can also get a brand new line , from tranny to radiator but ill have to check first to see if i can get in there to change it . My line is twisted at the radiator connection ,, and it maybe interfering with the volume , and pressure , causing more resistance ,, thus causing the fluid to be pumped backwards .
P.S. In the Valve body service that i just did , I installed a thermo blocker , that makes the fluid be pumped to the coolers at all times .
