Front end Rebuild

[JustAnotherMember7]

It's been a while, but it is time to get my ride reliably running again.

Ball joints MUST be changed, as well as wheel bearings.

Rotors and brake pads are midline acceptable but I'd like to change them out and bleed the brakes.

Outer tie rod boots are not torn, but the car has 145,000 miles and they are original.

Here is my parts list, is this way too expensive (825$), or does it line up with what I am wanting to do?

• Front Left Upper Control Arm 81.99$
• Front Right Upper Control Arm (Ball Joint) 57.99$ (new bushings will be pressed into the 2 piece design) 12.99$ x2$
• Front Left and Right Lower Ball Joints 48.99$ x2

• Front Left Outer Wheel Bearing 5.99$
• Front Left Inner Wheel Bearing 6.79$
• Grease Wheel Seal 7.59$

• Front Right Outer Wheel Bearing 5.99$
• Front Right Inner Wheel Bearing 6.79$
• Grease Wheel Seal 7.59$

• Rear Wheel Bearings with grease seal (left and right sides) 14.99$ x2
• Rear Diff Shock Absorber Dampener 34.53$
• Pennzoil Synthetic 5w 30 oil 27.99$
• Motorcraft O.E. Oil Filter 8.99$

• Front Rotors 78.99$ x2
• Front Brake Pads 49.49$
• Rear Rotors - 47.99$ x2
• Rear Brake Pads 48.99$

• Left Outer Tie Rod 39.99$
• Right Outer Tie Rod 39.99$
• Lower Control Arm Bushings 17.29$ (Each*, x 2)

What can I do to decrease the cost but get good quality parts?

 

[donalds]

What can I do to decrease the cost but get good quality parts

Find a good place to buy them
I wouldn't compromise on parts

 

[JustAnotherMember7]

Find a good place to buy them
I wouldn't compromise on parts

I've linked each part, mostly Advance Auto or Auto Zone

I moved and don't have access to my local trustworthy supply shop, so I'm trying to find a good place to buy parts.

 

[swshawaii]

Whatever you do, avoid "service or economy grade" parts and buy "premium" if you plan on keeping the vehicle. GL

2001 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Suspension Parts | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

MANY suspension threads in the 1995-01 stock & modified sub forums. Here's just one:

IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

After going through new upper ball joints in 2 months, and having the inner tie rods blown apart, I did some searching for something stronger. If you have anything to contribute, please do! :thumbsup: What I found: Dixon Bros has a super HD set up for big bucks. Out of my price range. Outers...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[JustAnotherMember7]

Whatever you do, avoid "service or economy grade" parts and buy "premium" if you plan on keeping the vehicle. GL

2001 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Suspension Parts | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

MANY suspension threads in the 1995-01 stock & modified sub forums. Here's just one:

IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

After going through new upper ball joints in 2 months, and having the inner tie rods blown apart, I did some searching for something stronger. If you have anything to contribute, please do! :thumbsup: What I found: Dixon Bros has a super HD set up for big bucks. Out of my price range. Outers...

www.explorerforum.com

I'm going to get the premium since this rig will be my daily for the next couple of years.

I've been very suspicious of rock auto since their parts are so cheap. How have your experiences been with them? In my short 18 years on earth, I've realized that you get what you pay for, and am concerned that it applies with rock auto parts as well.

 

[swshawaii]

RA is by far the parts supplier of choice on EF. Of course they're not perfect, nobody is. RA prices are legit, just be aware of shipping costs when parts are shipped from different locations. Amazon's good too, and you'll often find them mirroring RA's prices on many parts. They just don't have the vast selection, accurate fitment, and easy to use web site that RA has.

Rock Auto parts closeout for 98 4.0 SOHC

Just received this deal from Rock Auto and maybe it can help someone. A lot of closeout parts. I have zero affiliation. https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1304413&m=wc&l=en&html=true

www.explorerforum.com

 

[crunchie_frog]

I'm going to get the premium since this rig will be my daily for the next couple of years.

I've been very suspicious of rock auto since their parts are so cheap. How have your experiences been with them? In my short 18 years on earth, I've realized that you get what you pay for, and am concerned that it applies with rock auto parts as well.

You will have a very hard time beating Rock Auto prices for the exact same part you can get anywhere else, including shipping, especially for a large order if you can manage to find the parts you want from your list from the same shipping location to minimize shipping. If you want to use Advance Auto, they almost always have a 25% off coupon code if you google for it. Rock Auto parts are are not "cheap", they sell Motorcraft Parts, and top of the line aftermarket parts, and yes some cheap aftermarket parts. Just looking at your list, Rock Auto will beat your prices from Advance Auto or any other Auto Parts store.

You seem to be missing stabilizer links, a very common front end wear item. While you are at it, and if you are doing your brakes, how does your brake fluid look, brake fluid flush is a common maintenance item that gets overlooked that is low cost but beneficial.

Every job on your list has been covered in this forum before and if you run into something you don't know how to do, I am confident you will get your questions answered (correctly) if you provide sufficient, correct information. Good luck.

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[RoyKelly2]

It's been a while, but it is time to get my ride reliably running again.

Ball joints MUST be changed, as well as wheel bearings.

Rotors and brake pads are midline acceptable but I'd like to change them out and bleed the brakes.

Outer tie rod boots are not torn, but the car has 145,000 miles and they are original.

Here is my parts list, is this way too expensive (825$), or does it line up with what I am wanting to do?

• Front Left Outer Wheel Bearing 5.99$
• Front Left Inner Wheel Bearing 6.79$
• Grease Wheel Seal 7.59$

• Front Right Outer Wheel Bearing 5.99$
• Front Right Inner Wheel Bearing 6.79$
• Grease Wheel Seal 7.59$

• Rear Wheel Bearings with grease seal (left and right sides) 14.99$ x2

What can I do to decrease the cost but get good quality parts?

Your bearings all link to "Rear. Transmission model NP2500. Contains: LM11949 & LM11910. Cone/Cup" on autozone's site.
Your 2001 Explorer uses Hubs. Here are a couple of links for you Autozone Hubs Rock Auto Hubs

 

[JustAnotherMember7]

You seem to be missing stabilizer links, a very common front end wear item. While you are at it, and if you are doing your brakes, how does your brake fluid look, brake fluid flush is a common maintenance item that gets overlooked that is low cost but beneficial.

Every job on your list has been covered in this forum before and if you run into something you don't know how to do, I am confident you will get your questions answered (correctly) if you provide sufficient, correct information. Good luck.

Yes, I am missing the stabilizer bushings and end links. I rebuilt my explorer (engine swap) and did other things like new heavy-duty Monroe shocks and polyurethane sway bar bushings and end links. Those parts are only 2 years old and after visual inspection, still operating well. I flushed the brake fluid as well when rebuilding the explorer, but plan to flush the lines when I do the brake job in the next couple of weeks.

I'm excited to get the parts changed, and get some tools in the process! And explorer forum has been my best source of info when my repair books failed me.

I might look into getting the forscan obd2 adapters so I can diagnose my own car and check everything out. Just don't want to delete the software on the car's computer

 

[JustAnotherMember7]

Your bearings all link to "Rear. Transmission model NP2500. Contains: LM11949 & LM11910. Cone/Cup" on autozone's site.
Your 2001 Explorer uses Hubs. Here are a couple of links for you Autozone Hubs Rock Auto Hubs

I'll fix that. BTW my explorer is 2wd (I probably should have mentioned that

 

[crunchie_frog]

Yes, I am missing the stabilizer bushings and end links. I rebuilt my explorer (engine swap) and did other things like new heavy-duty Monroe shocks and polyurethane sway bar bushings and end links. Those parts are only 2 years old and after visual inspection, still operating well. I flushed the brake fluid as well when rebuilding the explorer, but plan to flush the lines when I do the brake job in the next couple of weeks.

I'm excited to get the parts changed, and get some tools in the process! And explorer forum has been my best source of info when my repair books failed me.

I might look into getting the forscan obd2 adapters so I can diagnose my own car and check everything out. Just don't want to delete the software on the car's computer

Forscan is great for these vehicles, no issues that I have ever experienced.

 

[C420sailor]

RockAuto is 100% the way to go. You can purchase actual high quality parts at near wholesale prices. I can’t remember if it was Pepboys or AutoZone, but I bought their store brand ball joints years ago and they lasted 10,000mi. No kidding. Garbage.

For your bearings and seals, I recommend SKF. I don’t like to cheap out on bearings.

 

[JustAnotherMember7]

RockAuto is 100% the way to go. You can purchase actual high quality parts at near wholesale prices. I can’t remember if it was Pepboys or AutoZone, but I bought their store brand ball joints years ago and they lasted 10,000mi. No kidding. Garbage.

For your bearings and seals, I recommend SKF. I don’t like to cheap out on bearings.

Thanks for the advice and reply.

I went ahead and ordered from rock auto, paid 200$ less, but got the brands I'm used to working with.

I got Timkin wheel bearings and races, as well as their wheel seals. (I've had good luck with Timkin).

Moog suspension parts, and Wagner brakes and rotors

 

[C420sailor]

You’ll be happy. I run Timken hubs and they last a long time. I use Moog primarily for suspension...some of their items have been hit or miss with QA lately (check your BJ boots for tears before installing) but overall they perform well and last. I use Wagner Thermoquiet brake pads and love them.

RA will send you a 5% off code in a couple weeks...they do that after a somewhat large order. Saves you even more on the next job, as long as its in the next few months.

 

[XLTrunner]

FYI: You can get a RA 5% discount code at any time from a site called retailmenot.com. I use it every time I order from RA (just did it the other day to order some A/C replacement parts.

 

[traveler]

I get all my parts from NAPA now. With my employee discount I can easily match or beat other locations, even RockAuto.
However that's not why I'm posting. NAPA will usually match prices from its competitors, and quite often the parts are superior.

 

[crunchie_frog]

I get all my parts from NAPA now. With my employee discount I can easily match or beat other locations, even RockAuto.
However that's not why I'm posting. NAPA will usually match prices from its competitors, and quite often the parts are superior.

Wow, thanks, nice, I did not know. So I just print out my order or RockAuto parts and prices and they will get the same parts (or same quality) for the same price? Who gets to decide what is the "same" quality for example I do not see any motorcraft parts (looking for motorcraft heavy duty front brake pads) and motorcraft transmission filter.

Also for original OP and anyone else, if you have an account in RockAuto they include the monthly 5% off code in your "account" information, just click it and it adds to your cart.

 

[fireftr]

It's been a while, but it is time to get my ride reliably running again.

Ball joints MUST be changed, as well as wheel bearings.

Rotors and brake pads are midline acceptable but I'd like to change them out and bleed the brakes.

Outer tie rod boots are not torn, but the car has 145,000 miles and they are original.

Here is my parts list, is this way too expensive (825$), or does it line up with what I am wanting to do?

• Front Left Upper Control Arm 81.99$
• Front Right Upper Control Arm (Ball Joint) 57.99$ (new bushings will be pressed into the 2 piece design) 12.99$ x2$
• Front Left and Right Lower Ball Joints 48.99$ x2

• Front Left Outer Wheel Bearing 5.99$
• Front Left Inner Wheel Bearing 6.79$
• Grease Wheel Seal 7.59$

• Front Right Outer Wheel Bearing 5.99$
• Front Right Inner Wheel Bearing 6.79$
• Grease Wheel Seal 7.59$

• Rear Wheel Bearings with grease seal (left and right sides) 14.99$ x2
• Rear Diff Shock Absorber Dampener 34.53$
• Pennzoil Synthetic 5w 30 oil 27.99$
• Motorcraft O.E. Oil Filter 8.99$

• Front Rotors 78.99$ x2
• Front Brake Pads 49.49$
• Rear Rotors - 47.99$ x2
• Rear Brake Pads 48.99$

• Left Outer Tie Rod 39.99$
• Right Outer Tie Rod 39.99$
• Lower Control Arm Bushings 17.29$ (Each*, x 2)

What can I do to decrease the cost but get good quality parts?

Buy them online

 

[traveler]

Wow, thanks, nice, I did not know. So I just print out my order or RockAuto parts and prices and they will get the same parts (or same quality) for the same price? Who gets to decide what is the "same" quality for example I do not see any motorcraft parts (looking for motorcraft heavy duty front brake pads) and motorcraft transmission filter.

Also for original OP and anyone else, if you have an account in RockAuto they include the monthly 5% off code in your "account" information, just click it and it adds to your cart.

Well the Key word in that post is "usually". It really depends on the manager. Where I work most of our business is from the local shops and dealers. They spend a lot of money, so we like to keep them happy. You just have to ask the manager and see what kind of deal he is willing to give you. If you point out that you do off roading and will likely be a regular customer they are more likely to work with you.

 

[fireftr]

Well the Key word in that post is "usually". It really depends on the manager. Where I work most of our business is from the local shops and dealers. They spend a lot of money, so we like to keep them happy. You just have to ask the manager and see what kind of deal he is willing to give you. If you point out that you do off roading and will likely be a regular customer they are more likely to work with you.

Well the Key word in that post is "usually". It really depends on the manager. Where I work most of our business is from the local shops and dealers. They spend a lot of money, so we like to keep them happy. You just have to ask the manager and see what kind of deal he is willing to give you. If you point out that you do off roading and will likely be a regular customer they are more likely to work with you.

You can get off brand or name brand parts

Well the Key word in that post is "usually". It really depends on the manager. Where I work most of our business is from the local shops and dealers. They spend a lot of money, so we like to keep them happy. You just have to ask the manager and see what kind of deal he is willing to give you. If you point out that you do off roading and will likely be a regular customer they are more likely to work with you.

You can get both name brand or off brand parts online.
Moog, Walker, Bosch, etc.
You just need to do your homework and take the time to scan various sites.