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Solved Theft Mode Issues

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DemonMudder

- When In Doubt, Redneck It Out -
Elite Explorer
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City, State
Jacksonville, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
'95 C1500
Okay, I know this has been discussed plenty, even on Google. But I took the truck in to be painted and they somehow threw it in theft mode. Would like some suggestions for getting it out if it without having to bring it back to ford. I tried a few quick methods before I had to work the other day and am picking it up tomorrow; need it tomorrow as well. 1999 Exploder XLT, never done this before hand, they may have left the keys out in the rain, not 100% but they did manage to rust my keychain. All suggestions are welcome, anything to add to several methods I still need to try.
 



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Okay, I know this has been discussed plenty, even on Google. But I took the truck in to be painted and they somehow threw it in theft mode. Would like some suggestions for getting it out if it without having to bring it back to ford. I tried a few quick methods before I had to work the other day and am picking it up tomorrow; need it tomorrow as well. 1999 Exploder XLT, never done this before hand, they may have left the keys out in the rain, not 100% but they did manage to rust my keychain. All suggestions are welcome, anything to add to several methods I still need to try.
Clicker wouldn't even work until a few minutes on jumper cables, assuming the battery is dead as well so I got a new one. But it will come on, and attempt to crank when on a charge. But that's as far as it goes
 






Is the theft light flashing rapidly ?
Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key ?
 






Is the theft light flashing rapidly ?
Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key ?
The theft light did blink rapidly, can't recall if the check engine was still on, I'm sure it was on like normal in the on position
 






These vehicles do not have a theft mode, they simply have a PATS system which detects a proper key each time the ignition is turned on. When the alarm goes off, any proper key will disable the alarm, or the key fob should too.

Watch the THEFT light, nothing else, while turning on the key and not cranking it. If the theft light flashes when the ignition is on, do not crank the engine, that is a waste of time. The theft light flashing means that the fuel pump is disabled because a proper key code was not received.

The keys have a coded chip in them, which normally I'd say aren't hurt by leaving them in the rain. But how many good keys do you have, you need to have three? Try the other good keys, to find one that works(the theft light does not flash when the ignition is on).
 






These vehicles do not have a theft mode, they simply have a PATS system which detects a proper key each time the ignition is turned on. When the alarm goes off, any proper key will disable the alarm, or the key fob should too.

Watch the THEFT light, nothing else, while turning on the key and not cranking it. If the theft light flashes when the ignition is on, do not crank the engine, that is a waste of time. The theft light flashing means that the fuel pump is disabled because a proper key code was not received.

The keys have a coded chip in them, which normally I'd say aren't hurt by leaving them in the rain. But how many good keys do you have, you need to have three? Try the other good keys, to find one that works(the theft light does not flash when the ignition is on).
Well I never got around to making any spares, meant to but was looking around for cheaper places to do it than ford; did just replace the door lock so I have that key and the one ignition key. The fob would unlock, lock, and set the alarm off just fine. I'll have to check the light tomorrow when I nab it though. Heard it could also be the PATS fuse? So I'll end up checking that too
 






The latest software now lets users program their own PATS module, that is, erase the memory of prior codes. That's Forscan and a cable to connect it to a laptop. You will need those and a free access license of some kind, I don't know the details.

Buy new blank PATS keys, on eBay they have countless styles. Choose two or more for little cost, $10 or so each. Then get ready to do your own programming, or pay a dealer etc, to charge $100 and more to do it.

Hopefully your one key will work first though, that will let you move the truck now.
 






If they let the keys get wet, I'd wonder if water got inside and shorted out the chip in the key, would take a small pick or x-acto knife blade, pry the plug out of the key, extract the chip module and dry it out, though I thought they were supposed to be sealed waterproof.

You don't have to pay a locksmith to rekey anything, or can cut these key blanks with a standard key cutter service at many hardware stores for $1 or $2.

There are some details about using Forscan to DIY program in the following topic, which may be for a different problem (broken transceiver module) but still includes some Forscan programming details... not just the linked post but also subsequent posts after it in same topic, and there are other topics too:


The way I look at it, why pay a locksmith or dealer more money when you can not only DIY but also that it involves getting two very useful tools for future diagnosis too, a code reader dongle and Forscan app. This sub-$30 expenditure can save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars in the long run.
 






The key chip is embedded in glass and should be 100% waterproof UNLESS the key is a cloned style with the battery.
 






Well, it's not a master key that I have, I the know that. What I'm doing first is replacing the ignition lock cylinder. Comes with 2 transponder keys, already coded. Picking that up tomorrow so we'll see how this goes
 






Well, it's not a master key that I have, I the know that. What I'm doing first is replacing the ignition lock cylinder. Comes with 2 transponder keys, already coded. Picking that up tomorrow so we'll see how this goes

The PATS key codes are equal to the vehicle, none are master or unique. I think you need one that works to start the car, to be able to program others in with the Forscan etc. Besides the Forscan, only the special programming tool can erase the codes from the PATS.

The PATS module stores the key codes that are programmed in, eight maximum. If you buy new keys, or the key cylinder that comes with keys, those have to be programmed into the PATS module. Nothing will work except the keys that have their key code stored in the PATS module.

You can have any key cylinder altered to accept a different key, they can replace the tumblers inside of them.
 






Agreed. Don’t waste your money on new keys. They aren’t going to just work. It should flash a code. Start there. What makes you think it’s not a master key?
 






Yes, confirm that the PATS receiver is properly mounted on the lower side of the ignition key cylinder. If someone worked on the vehicle and broke that or dislodged it, the key may not be close enough when inserted. Mine was that way, the cover had been off and the receiver was laying inside. Taped up it worked, so I put some RTV on the attachment points and made it permanent. That was in about 2005.
 






Well, it's not a master key that I have, I the know that. What I'm doing first is replacing the ignition lock cylinder. Comes with 2 transponder keys, already coded. Picking that up tomorrow so we'll see how this goes
There is no such thing as a master key. There are only two types of keys, standard factory (and aftermarket) keys with a chip, each having its own unique, permanent code, and aftermarket clone keys, that use a battery and memorize the unique code of an existing key you already have.

As others already mentioned, a new cylinder and keys won't work, they still have to be programmed in just like the old keys and if there is some other vehicle problem, it won't be the lock cylinder as long as the cylinder turns when you put the keys in.

An ELM327 compatible code reader dongle and Forscan app can both read the PATS trouble codes, and, given the right setup (windows O based host and Forscan extended license), program in new keys.

It is strange that taking it to be painted caused this. If it was a paid service then I'd complain to them and want it to be fixed on their dime, but it makes me wonder if they disconnected or drained the battery and the computer needs reset, so I would disconnect the battery, charge it if not sitting near 12.6V, then reconnect.
 






There is no such thing as a master key. There are only two types of keys, standard factory (and aftermarket) keys with a chip, each having its own unique, permanent code, and aftermarket clone keys, that use a battery and memorize the unique code of an existing key you already have.

As others already mentioned, a new cylinder and keys won't work, they still have to be programmed in just like the old keys and if there is some other vehicle problem, it won't be the lock cylinder as long as the cylinder turns when you put the keys in.

An ELM327 compatible code reader dongle and Forscan app can both read the PATS trouble codes, and, given the right setup (windows O based host and Forscan extended license), program in new keys.
Well I may end up taking it back, but either way, my code reader can register that PATS is active but won't do anything with it. There is a program mode but at the moment, I don't have the cable for it. Assumming that the program mode is for the system and not the device. But I have forscan on my pc, so that's one step
 






There are two keys given with them from the factory. One will have an M stamped on them, one will have an S.
 






There are two keys given with them from the factory. One will have an M stamped on them, one will have an S.
Yeah, mine has neither of those it has like a KL (I think) logo on it, with Italy below it.
 






There’s nothing important about them, the M key does nothing special and can be erased.
 






There’s nothing important about them, the M key does nothing special and can be erased.
But if my key chip is damaged, they can still match a new key to the ignition, right?
 



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It’ll need programmed in with the appropriate scan tool. (Or FORScan) the key is programmed into the computer, not the ignition.
 






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