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e4406 swap quick question

Dubious_Downfall

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City, State
Fife, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 Mazda Navajo LX
I've got a 98 Explorer XLT 5.0 AWD. It's got 230,000 miles. Just bought it. It's got a whine from the front end that I believe is from the front driveshaft. I want to just go ahead and do the swap to a 4406. The AWD transfer case makes this poor V8 feel slower than my old 93 4.0. And swapping to the 4406 involves swapping that front driveshaft anyway. So, the actual question: Can I install an electronic shift 4406 without the shift motor, and shift it by hand under the truck until I can get the clearance and wiring figured out?

20210903_193053.jpg
 



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Yes, an electrically shifted 4406 (the part time version) can be shifted by hand/with pliers between positions.
 






the 1354 and 4406 use the EXACT same shift motor
I agree with above, until you mod your fuel tank to clear the shift motor you can shift it by hand, yes
 






Has anyone done a full write-up where they successfully installed an electronic shift 4406? I found one, but I think they basically wired their own shift motor to clear the gas tank. VERY cool, but not the reliability/replaceability I'm look for. I'm still looking. I'll actually post a link to one if I manage to find it first. Thanks, as always!
 






I have done it on a 2000 Ranger, no gas tank clearance issues on that truck. Also, the factory 2000 model year ranger 1354e motor, switches, etc all worked the 4406e case with zero modifications. I DID have to add one wire, the 5.0 wiring harness did NOT include the NSS (neutral safety) wire from the DTRS (trans range sensor) to the C-115, 42 pin connector BECAUSE all 5.0 Explorers were AWD.



For any control trac explorer going from V6 to 5.0/4406e I would plan to bypass the GEM module controls of the control trac (TOD, torque on demand) and install a 2002+ Ranger " Motorolla box" 4x4 control module. Please let me know if you need information posted here about that swap. Basically on a control trac 96-01 Explorer the GEM module controls the AWD functions. Instead we want a true 2 speed t case, so wiring in a 02+ Ranger (02 explorer, and some other Fords you can find the motorolla box) control module. It works with your factory dash 4x4 switch and factory 1354/4006 e t case shift motor. Also known as the "control trac delete" mod
I have done SEVERAL of these over the years...... we can add the electronic shift t case to just about any ranger based vehicle from 1983-2011
 






I have done it on a 2000 Ranger, no gas tank clearance issues on that truck. Also, the factory 2000 model year ranger 1354e motor, switches, etc all worked the 4406e case with zero modifications. I DID have to add one wire, the 5.0 wiring harness did NOT include the NSS (neutral safety) wire from the DTRS (trans range sensor) to the C-115, 42 pin connector BECAUSE all 5.0 Explorers were AWD.



For any control trac explorer going from V6 to 5.0/4406e I would plan to bypass the GEM module controls of the control trac (TOD, torque on demand) and install a 2002+ Ranger " Motorolla box" 4x4 control module. Please let me know if you need information posted here about that swap. Basically on a control trac 96-01 Explorer the GEM module controls the AWD functions. Instead we want a true 2 speed t case, so wiring in a 02+ Ranger (02 explorer, and some other Fords you can find the motorolla box) control module. It works with your factory dash 4x4 switch and factory 1354/4006 e t case shift motor. Also known as the "control trac delete" mod
I have done SEVERAL of these over the years...... we can add the electronic shift t case to just about any ranger based vehicle from 1983-2011
This should work perfectly. Didn't think to check the ranger forum. Thank you!

Added note: The more I look into it, the more I'm willing to cut a hole in the floor of this nearly pristine Explorer... I really wanted something barely noticeable that would basically just plug in. But the manual shift installs on here actually look much cleaner than expected, and seem like a lot less of a headache. What would you say are the chances of a noob, without an impact driver, getting the transfer cases and drive shafts swapped in a day? My apologies for what has to feel like beating a dead horse at this point. 😅
 






Pull the center console and front seats, pull the carpet back, open access panel
This will make it so much easier on you to drop the AWD t case and then install the new 4406 and linkage
The manual t case is a far better choice IMO because you do not have to move or modify your fuel tank!!!!!
If you do not want to pull the seats you can simply cut your carpet, the center console will cover up the new slice/hole.


I can easily swap a AWD for 4406 in a day.... but do not plan to be in a rush here. You can spend half a day on just one bolt if you do not do this sort of thing all the time
 






Pull the center console and front seats, pull the carpet back, open access panel
This will make it so much easier on you to drop the AWD t case and then install the new 4406 and linkage
The manual t case is a far better choice IMO because you do not have to move or modify your fuel tank!!!!!
If you do not want to pull the seats you can simply cut your carpet, the center console will cover up the new slice/hole.


I can easily swap a AWD for 4406 in a day.... but do not plan to be in a rush here. You can spend half a day on just one bolt if you do not do this sort of thing all the time
How do you cut your holes? And am I gonna need to go through the interior just to get the transfer case out? I didn't think I would have to do anything inside the cab until the 4406 was bolted in. Oh, and am I gonna need a BUNCH of ratchet angle adapters and extensions?
 






calm down! LOL LOL just kidding

Pulling the front seats (at least the drivers side) and the center console takes like 15-30 minutes
Once you have the carpet pulled back there is an access panel there, 4ea 8mm screws.
Once the access panel is removed you will have complete access to the top transfer case bolts. REALLY EASY to get to, they are right there! 13mm socket, no special tools needed, maybe a short extension and a wobbly.

You do not have to do this, but Im telling you right now it makes it WAY EASIER to get to the t case top bolts
Otherwise you have to use a 13mm speed wrench and fight to get your arms around the exhaust pipes.
With the carpet pulled back and access panel open it makes it possible to install the 4406 and shift linkage, cut the hole for the linkage, etc

I did this to my old 96 many many years ago there are lots of pictures there

 






If you do not want to pull the seats you can simply remove your center console and cut the carpet right down the middle.... enough to give access to the access panel
Zthe console will cover up the carpet you cut when re installed.
I HIGHLY recommend you remove at least the drivers seat..... 4 ea 10mm and a torx 50 for the seatbelt bolt
 






seats out, console out, carpet pulled back, access panel open

171_081001_590000000.jpg
 






seats out, console out, carpet pulled back, access panel open

View attachment 342339
Knowing that under the center console is the quickest route to the top of that TC basically just cemented the fact that I will do a manual shift 4406 swap when the time comes. I need to buy some tools and set aside a little cash before I head out to the junkyard. I'm guessing most people use an angle grinder for the shift linkage hole?

Seriously need to send you a Christmas gift or something, Fortune. Lol
 






Knowing that under the center console is the quickest route to the top of that TC basically just cemented the fact that I will do a manual shift 4406 swap when the time comes. I need to buy some tools and set aside a little cash before I head out to the junkyard. I'm guessing most people use an angle grinder for the shift linkage hole?

Seriously need to send you a Christmas gift or something, Fortune. Lol
I can't remember what I used a few years ago on mine. Probably an angle grinder or oscillating tool. If I had to do it again when the transmission wasn't installed, I'd probably grab a jigsaw this time.
 






Oh! If I grab the 4406 out of a 97-98, it should have everything I need for the VSS already? I THINK I'll need it since I've got a 98.
 






your 98 you do NOT need the VSS sensor
Your 98 uses the rear axle sensor for the speedo, cruise and ABS
97 was the last year of the t case mounted sensor

You can use a 4406 all the way up to 2008, so from 96-2008 F150 with a 4.6v8 or 4.2V6 will have a 4406
Finding the manual shift version AND the linkage is the trickiest part
Grab the front driveshaft as well, I also usually grab the rear d shaft because I use it as a core to build my own (have a shop build them)

I used a jig saw to cut that hole
 






This reminds me - there's a guy in PA selling a 4.2L R2 with a 4406 manual shift attached. I just don't have a good way to go pick it up right now...
 






GOLD if it is a good price
The R2 itself is $1500+ on Ebay when they come up
T case I sell those for $6-800+ with linkage
 






your 98 you do NOT need the VSS sensor
Your 98 uses the rear axle sensor for the speedo, cruise and ABS
97 was the last year of the t case mounted sensor

You can use a 4406 all the way up to 2008, so from 96-2008 F150 with a 4.6v8 or 4.2V6 will have a 4406
Finding the manual shift version AND the linkage is the trickiest part
Grab the front driveshaft as well, I also usually grab the rear d shaft because I use it as a core to build my own (have a shop build them)

I used a jig saw to cut that hole
I think I might actually be in luck on the linkage. My local junkyard is a "pull it yourself" joint. Should be able to grab the linkage equipment and the TC from the same truck.
 






Nice! The problem is the linkage is attached to the side of the transmission, so in many yards/trucks the t case is still sitting there and the trans is long gone....along with the linkage.

Many times I have found a 4406M and no transmission around, but if you ask the dudes to show you the 4r70w automatics they have on the shelf, many times you will see the linkage still bolted to the trans, and they can pull it for you.

to find a truck in the yard with the trans and t case still in place with the linkage does happen! But it also means you will be busy dropping that 4406 in the yard.......not always easy to do! They can be a REAL PITA to remove by yourself in the yard with the trans/d shafts still in the truck :) Doable? yes! PITA! Very much so.
 



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Nice! The problem is the linkage is attached to the side of the transmission, so in many yards/trucks the t case is still sitting there and the trans is long gone....along with the linkage.

Many times I have found a 4406M and no transmission around, but if you ask the dudes to show you the 4r70w automatics they have on the shelf, many times you will see the linkage still bolted to the trans, and they can pull it for you.

to find a truck in the yard with the trans and t case still in place with the linkage does happen! But it also means you will be busy dropping that 4406 in the yard.......not always easy to do! They can be a REAL PITA to remove by yourself in the yard with the trans/d shafts still in the truck :) Doable? yes! PITA! Very much so.
Yeah, having to drop parts from three separate trucks all by myself is not gonna be fun. It SHOULD make the install seem less daunting, though.
 






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