00 OHV Galloping like a 3 legged drunk

[Fenrir]

@Fenrir

For 16 years the procedure I follow is to clear the ECU after you replaced every major component (IAC & EGR) and also after you cleaned your MAF (or replace spark plugs, plug wires, coil, etc).

To clarify, the computer will do what it can, within it's parameters, to keep the motor running as parts fail, wear out, and fail.

The reason you clear it's "learned memory" is to re-establish your computer back to the factory baseline parameters.

No doubt now that I've written this, there will be a string of posters claiming "that's no necessary" or "I never do that".

I'm surprised that this hasn't been brought up earlier BUT neither have the basic questions I've asked - so you decide.

NOTE: You will lose your currently stored CEL CODES by disconnecting the battery.
SO, you could always wait to disconnect the battery, get your scanner and get your current codes, WRITE THEM DOWN.

Then disconnect the battery overnight, drive around your neighborhood, and then record what codes come up.

Moving on, all that said, at 181,000 Miles, your (3) upper intake rubber gaskets are TOAST - I guarantee it.

LINK TO EXPLORER FORUM WRITE UP:

How to replace upper intake manifold gaskets

I had to replace my upper intake manifold gaskets to fix a vacuum leak that was giving me two engine error codes (P0171 Bank 1 lean and P0174 Bank 2 lean). I have a 2000 Ranger with a 4.0L OHV V6 with the plastic upper intake manifold. I was able to diagnose it as a vacuum leak with help from...

www.explorerforum.com

Bottom of Upper Intake Plenium
View attachment 343014



OLD GASKET
View attachment 343015

New Gasket

View attachment 343016

Holy ****, like this is legitimately more information than I've gotten out of two professional mechanics and a hand full of back yard head scratchers.
I'll wait until I get the tool and grab any stored codes before I disconnect the battery, absolutely required or not the logic is perfectly sound and it's certainly not going to hurt anything once I have any stored codes pulled, the potential for answers or improvement can't be discounted when you're chasing ghosts, whether it's in something as simple as a blender or something as complex as a motor.
I can definitely get to those gaskets with my current tools, might have to get a little creative with improper use of a pair of vise grips, or finally give up and buy new sockets (depending on my patience that day lol) but it's well within my ability to get into.
Seriously considering going down to the parts store after I drop my kid at school tomorrow morning and grabbing the gaskets just for the sake of doing SOMETHING since I hate sitting on my hands.

 

[donalds]

Listen to him^^^^^
@fast_dave knows his stuff

 

[fast_dave]

I find that due to tight clearances encountered in the center of the plastic upper intake, you will need a 1/4" drive deep well socket (12mm or 14mm - I can't remember) so as to keep the socket outer circumference to a minimum.

This is necessary in order to have the socket at a true "straight up and down" direction when torqueing down the upper intake manifold (which is critical). The socket must be square to the nut in order to get a true torque value.

Came back to add this: Over dinner I remembered remembered an issue brought about by the TOP of the black plastic intake "plenium".
The top portion is glued to the body of the plenium, and that top portion has edges that extend outwards very far.
If you try to use a 3/8" drive extension and a 3/8" drive socket on the center nuts. your extension & socket will be at 5-7 degrees off center on the center nuts that you're attaching to. The 3/8" drive extensions outer diameter will rub up against the top portion of the black plastic upper plenium.

Lets put it this way - if this isn't clear now, it will be when you're trying to button up this job - PROPERLY.

TIPS:

Take LOTS of disassembly pics so if you take the whole day (which you can the 1st time around) you'll know the order of reassembly.

Trust me, you won't take too many - if anything you'll have a "sheet, I wish I took a pic of that" moment at least once.

Zip-Loc bags and a Sharpie are also your best friend....

Painters tape for marking not only vacuum hoses but also their corresponding nipples on fittings.

LOTS of clean rags and carb cleaner.

3M Electrical Tape to tape up tape that's loosened/unraveled after 21 year.

I've done this job 4 times now and I still let it take 2 days because inevitably when you get in there, you'll see other stuff that you want to take care of proactively.

In fact, I go so far as removing the hood (only 4 bolts) because it makes it so much easier both on your neck and head AND eyes. If you're working in a garage with an overhead light it lights up the entire engine compartment - sooooooo nice.

 

[EB4X]

THIS >>> "Was smoked to check for vacuum leaks, none detected (or so they told me)"

 

[C420sailor]

Remember that most mechanics just want to make money. They won’t tell you much, just what’s broken and that you need to pay them to fix it...

 

[410Fortune]

or just check fuel pressure to rule it out.

exactly!
quickly eliminate the possible causes
Air fuel spark and check the codes


intake gaskets are a must!! Also with the intake off you will want to replace the large green EGR O ring, not always included with the intake plenum gaskets

Also check the plastic intake plenum is not warped while it is off, a good way to do this is set it on a glass table

smart smart you are in good hands here

 

[Fenrir]

New developments this morning. I was going to drive it to take my son to school, it belched a big cloud of blue fuel/old vehicle that hasn't been driven smelling smoke and the check engine light finally came back on, didn't seem to really want to accelerate which is a bit worrying but I'm going to assume that's related to the ongoing issue and keep my fingers crossed that something else didn't just poop on me, this shouldn't be as exciting as it is but it's finally something I'll actually be able to use!I didn't drive it afterwards, took spawn to school in Horrible Pontiac instead.
Scan tool should be here Wednesday, so I'm not going to even touch it until that arrives, hopefully between whatever the codes say and the new gaskets I'll be back in business!
I really miss driving my Exploder, granted the Horrible Pontiac has a much smoother ride, but it's a pain in the arse to do anything with it because it's so little.

 

[Fenrir]

^ If they include a software CD, especially a little blue/white one with a bear on it, do not use that at all. Get Forscan app (demo) and Torque lite, both of which have a free version on google play.

Forscan is better for ford specific codes (outside the standard OBD2 set), but the free version can't reset codes while those that are OBD2, that Torque lite can "see", it can reset. I don't think you'll need the paid version of Torque for this but you can always buy it later if you like it.

I can't seem to find the demo/free version of Forscan, I grabbed Torque Lite, I'm loathe to pay for any apps but if I can't find the demo of Forscan (my brain is 12 and keeps wanting to type Foreskin) I'll probably just go ahead and buy the app anyway, I desperately want this Explorer back on the road and I want it to be it's old semi-comfortable self.

 

[410Fortune]

you can also get the code at most parts stores, they will come out to the truck and scan it for you
WRITE THE CODE(S) DOWN!!
You want to lookup the definition yourselves and provide us with the code(s) for diagnostics

 

[Fenrir]

you can also get the code at most parts stores, they will come out to the truck and scan it for you
WRITE THE CODE(S) DOWN!!
You want to lookup the definition yourselves and provide us with the code(s) for diagnostics

Doing both is definitely not a bad idea. I'm going to be writing down EVERYTHING, got a notepad and pen ready and waiting.
I really REALLY appreciate you guys, it means a lot to me that you're all taking the time to help me out with this mess, and I want you to know that I think you're freakin awesome!

 

[J_C]

I can't seem to find the demo/free version of Forscan, I grabbed Torque Lite, I'm loathe to pay for any apps but if I can't find the demo of Forscan (my brain is 12 and keeps wanting to type Foreskin) I'll probably just go ahead and buy the app anyway, I desperately want this Explorer back on the road and I want it to be it's old semi-comfortable self.

I was thinking it was on google play but the free demo is on their website:

Download FORScan

https://forscan.org/download/FORScanDemo1.5.11.apk

 

[Fenrir]

OBD tool came in earlier than expected.
Couldn't get Torque to run, it kept trying to pair with anything and everything except the module.
ForScan ran, I know some of these have more to do with wipers and other non-essential junk that I'm not even slightly concerned about at present.
P0102-C MAF circuit low
P0113-C AIT high input
P0113 AIT high input
P0102 MAF low voltage?
B1318 Battery voltage low?
B1998 Side airbag? Doesn't even have one of those.
B1347 Heated backlight relay coil circuit failure or front airbag resistance low? Why TF are there multiple meanings for one code? This is maddening
B1834 Door unlock disarm output circuit failure OR an exhaust leak?!?!
B1431 Right seatbelt tensioner OR Drivers side airbag...
B1434 Something something wipers, whatever.
B1398 Auto power window relay. Ok whatever, it's functioning just fine.
P0500 VSS malfunction: This could be ancient stored code as the VSS was done immediately after I got it in 2015
B1894 Something rear wiper, doesn't even touch the glass, don't care.
B1359 Run/ACC Circuit failure?
B1352 Key in circuit failure?
B1318 Battery voltage low?
This incenses me in a BIG way because that last shop that looked at it said it wouldn't talk to their testing equipment, and that it might have been throwing a code for an O2 sensor. This is quite a list for "no codes", and makes me think they didn't even try because if a 20$ crappy tool off of amazon can pick all this up there's no reason their big expensive code readers shouldn't pick it all up too.
I now want a nap, or a bottle of good whiskey, I'm a body tech and this is so insanely far outside of my wheelhouse, I feel lost, confused, and insanely frustrated.

 

[EB4X]

P0102 is the general code for a problem with the Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor having a low voltage output to the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

 

[C420sailor]

^^^^

The MAF and IAT codes are your red flag here. On 99 and later trucks, I believe, the MAF and IAT were integrated into one single sensor from two. You need to give the MAF and associated wiring a real close look.

 

[J_C]

In addition to the above, I'd also use a multimeter to confirm whether the battery is keeping charge and getting above 12.6V with the engine idling. A low system voltage can cause all kinds of phantom errors.

 

[KeenKilo]

Should push 14v at idle.

Check/clean the big plug just under the rain try, on firewall passenger side. I think a 10mil holds it together

 

[410Fortune]

I'm with J_C this looks like a voltage issue with all of those codes.

check battery power, should hold over 12.2V
Check battery power running should be charging over 14V at idle (14.2-14.4 is normal at idle no lights or accessories on)

Also I would CLEAR the codes, then go drive it see which ones come back
All we are interested in are driveability codes, like the MAS, IAT and battery voltage codes

As stated the IAT is integrated into the MAS from 98-00
If your MAS is not getting the 5V it needs to run it will not work properly, so this is why it could all be related to a power issue
First things first, check battery and alternator
Inspect battery terminals and battery leads, pay close attention to corrossion and connections. follow cables from battery especially on the negative side

 

[Fenrir]

I'm with J_C this looks like a voltage issue with all of those codes.

check battery power, should hold over 12.2V
Check battery power running should be charging over 14V at idle (14.2-14.4 is normal at idle no lights or accessories on)

Also I would CLEAR the codes, then go drive it see which ones come back
All we are interested in are driveability codes, like the MAS, IAT and battery voltage codes

As stated the IAT is integrated into the MAS from 98-00
If your MAS is not getting the 5V it needs to run it will not work properly, so this is why it could all be related to a power issue
First things first, check battery and alternator
Inspect battery terminals and battery leads, pay close attention to corrossion and connections. follow cables from battery especially on the negative side

Alrighty, I'll head out there and clear the codes, disconnect the battery and wait.
I'm a little concerned about driving it after yesterday morning, I moved it in the driveway yesterday to get the door to stop swinging in on me while I was fiddling with the scan tool and it doesn't feel like it's getting much power now.

 

[Fenrir]

Update: Putting everything on my end on hold for a day or two. My Granny has been up my butt all morning to take it to this little bitty shop she knows here in town, she told, not asked, straight told me that she'll be here in ten minutes to bring me home after taking it in, so I guess I'm taking it in
She's determined, I think partially due to the fact that in her world cars are "man stuff", I'm not going to argue with her, if she's that bent on paying for a diagnostic at this guy's shop I'll just let it happen, she may be 90 but that little whisp of a woman is a force to be reckoned with lol
Will post an update the second they tell me anything, or when they give up and call me to come get it.

 

[EB4X]

I would have popped a new MAF sensor on....