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Water pump failure leads to dead engine

Should Ford cover part of all of this repair out of loyalty?

  • Yes, a water pump failure at 95k should not destroy an engine

    Votes: 153 87.4%
  • No, and please quit whining about it

    Votes: 22 12.6%

  • Total voters
    175



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That does indeed look like it is leaking out of the weep hole which is good. I wouldn't wait and get it fixed asap or at least stop driving it. The timing chain and other parts should be replaced too since everything will be coming apart just to get in there...
 






That does indeed look like it is leaking out of the weep hole which is good. I wouldn't wait and get it fixed asap or at least stop driving it. The timing chain and other parts should be replaced too since everything will be coming apart just to get in there...
Yes, the truck won't move until I gets it fixed. Yes, timing parts will be also replaced. I was thinking of selling this truck in about 1 year, I guess I will be keeping it longer. I was trying to avoid this. As you and Eddie mention, I am lucky for the weep hole.
 






102k miles
That is low miles for a water pump failure. Out Edge has the 3.5L engine and it has 93k miles on it. Yours failing at 102k miles makes me nervous.
 






Yes, the truck won't move until I get it fixed. Yes, timing parts will be also replaced. I was thinking of selling this truck in about 1 year, I guess I will be keeping it longer. I was trying to avoid this. As you and Eddie mention, I am lucky for the weep hole.

Honestly timing components are probably fine at 102k. I usually don't see any visible wear at 100k. Only 200ish k and up I suggest doing the chains, (150k on ecoboost) as they have a good design.
 






That is low miles for a water pump failure. Out Edge has the 3.5L engine and it has 93k miles on it. Yours failing at 102k miles makes me nervous.
102k on the odometer. A lot of short trips, stop and go traffic should account for more than that.
 






Yes engine running time has alot to do with failure timing. I've done a few pumps under 100k but they have all been city driven hard. I've got a friend with almost 200k on her 15 explorer on original pump with no coolant loss yet. I have told her to prepare because it's only a matter of time till I see the inside of her engine. Her milage is a solid 75% highway though.
 






Honestly timing components are probably fine at 102k. I usually don't see any visible wear at 100k. Only 200ish k and up I suggest doing the chains, (150k on ecoboost) as they have a good design.
After some thought and since I´m going to be right there taking out the timing components, also Ford has parts succession for all the main components, I´m going to replace them. Primary time chain, tensioner arms and guides and the chain tensioner + crankshaft seal. Also I have to change valve cover gaskets. All that with the pump runs for about $300. My mechanic will be doing most of the job but I´m pretty handy. I´ll let you guys know how much I end up spending.
 






Completely understand. You'll need at least one tty bolt for the back intake cam gear to get one of the guides out. You might need the rear exhaust cam gear bolt too, can't remember.
 






Completely understand. You'll need at least one tty bolt for the back intake cam gear to get one of the guides out. You might need the rear exhaust cam gear bolt too, can't remember.
Thanks for the tips, I hope I don´t have to take off the secondary chains. My mechanic tells me it won´t be necessary but you tell me it´s needed. I´m just in the middle hoping for the best, hope you understand what I mean. Thanks Again.
 






Thanks for the tips, I hope I don´t have to take off the secondary chains. My mechanic tells me it won´t be necessary but you tell me it´s needed. I´m just in the middle hoping for the best, hope you understand what I mean. Thanks Again.
Honestly since the motor is going to be pulled, I would have anything done internally regardless of needing replacement or not. Most of the cost I have seen to do the work is the labor of just pulling the motor on a cherry picker. I had a new K-member installed recently due to a wreck cracking my mounting point for the control arm and I was hoping they were going to pull the motor/trans so I could pay to have the timing/WP replaced. It still took them 8 hours to remove the stock K member and install a new one with just suspending the motor on a cherry picker and I didn't get any of the additional work performed.
 






Honestly since the motor is going to be pulled, I would have anything done internally regardless of needing replacement or not. Most of the cost I have seen to do the work is the labor of just pulling the motor on a cherry picker. I had a new K-member installed recently due to a wreck cracking my mounting point for the control arm and I was hoping they were going to pull the motor/trans so I could pay to have the timing/WP replaced. It still took them 8 hours to remove the stock K member and install a new one with just suspending the motor on a cherry picker and I didn't get any of the additional work performed.
We aren't pulling the motor, I've seen it done in place. Have to take a bunch of stuff out yes.
And yes, I think like you, I believe that taking care of the primary timing components is a smart move.
 






The secondary timing chains should come off and also be replaced. Its cheap insurance.

They come off as a unit. Unbolt the phaser and unbolt the cam sprocket. Then pull both off together at same time with the chain stilk connected. Reassemble will be exact same way with new chain. Make sure to take note of the cam marks as both phaser and sprocket can only go on one way.

The phaser and sprocket bolts are torque to yield and cannot be reused. Make sure you get 4 new bolts and follow the ridiculous torque spec (30, back off, 70, back off etc..)

I recently replaced my water pump and timing components with the engine in the car. You will need to remove the front engine mount and use a jack to hold the motor up while doing the job. Use some wood between the jack and pan. With the mount out, there is plenty of room to work. Hardest part is getting the timing cover on with sealant and not smudging it everywhere.

I got some pics of the job in my photo album in signature
 






Sealing the timing cover is the main reason I drop the motors out of the Explorers in my shop to do the water pump. The only one I leave in the car is the Taurus as there is plenty of room compared. Within 2 hours of driving in I can have the cradle dropped and it doesn't get any easier to work on like that. Especially when the back coil boots split and have to be dug out in peices. This can be done in the driveway though no problem except the exact thing mentioned above, good luck on not getting RTV on everything and making a good seal for the timing cover.
 






Thanks for the tips, guys. I saw a video that recommended putting the RTV in the engine and not in the cover, is that a good idea?
 






You should apply it to the cover there is an indent for laying down the RTV bead but I have seen it done both ways. You just have be surgical when fitting the cover. Do it a couple times without the RTV on it to test fit. Patience is the key to this job haha
 






You should apply it to the cover there is an indent for laying down the RTV bead but I have seen it done both ways. You just have be surgical when fitting the cover. Do it a couple times without the RTV on it to test fit. Patience is the key to this job haha
Thanks!!!
 






Still waiting for the last parts to do the job. Do you guys use any specific RTV silicone? The Ford Work Shop manual calls for a specific Motorcraft RTV, I ordered it but it will push me back about 1 week before it arrives, My mechanic told me just to use Permatex Ultra Grey RTV. What do you suggest?

Thanks in advance
 






I used ultra black RTV (the super tacky stuff)

You need a silicone gun to use that Ford stuff which is just rebranded RTV these days
 



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