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WolfMatrix

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Tecumseh Mi
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer XLT
Okay, here's the deal.

I have a 1997 Ford Explorer. It is the XLT 4.0 OHV it is 4WD 4 door. It is my daily driver with 189,700 miles on it.
So far I have replaced the following :
  • 4/5 Shocks ( I didn't touch the one on the rear diff )
  • Inner/Outer Tie Rods
  • Hub Assembly in the front
  • Sway Bar Links
  • Front Rotors + Breaks (did the hubs at the same time)
So here is the issue, When turning the vehicle has some cracking, then driving close to highway speeds there are vibrations. Which I assume from the research was my CV Axles. I replaced the CV Axle today on both sides when I got it back from the shop I noticed a weird sound like someone is whistling at me. any driving condition, Reverse, Drive, rolling, pressing the gas, and breaking. Gets faster with speed. I took off the dust shields to see if that was the issue it was not. I kept them off because they are rusted to **** I'll buy new ones. I have no idea what that could be. but I also got to replace the upper and lower ball joints because they are shot. but I'm going to replace the whole upper and lower control arms since I'm already having to take them off anyway. but I'm assuming that the clunking I hear driving on bumpy roads is that issue but I barely have play in the wheel when testing the ball joints.

I need help it's my only vehicle
 



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Okay, here's the deal.

I have a 1997 Ford Explorer. It is the XLT 4.0 OHV it is 4WD 4 door. It is my daily driver with 189,700 miles on it.
So far I have replaced the following :
  • 4/5 Shocks ( I didn't touch the one on the rear diff )
  • Inner/Outer Tie Rods
  • Hub Assembly in the front
  • Sway Bar Links
  • Front Rotors + Breaks (did the hubs at the same time)
So here is the issue, When turning the vehicle has some cracking, then driving close to highway speeds there are vibrations. Which I assume from the research was my CV Axles. I replaced the CV Axle today on both sides when I got it back from the shop I noticed a weird sound like someone is whistling at me. any driving condition, Reverse, Drive, rolling, pressing the gas, and breaking. Gets faster with speed. I took off the dust shields to see if that was the issue it was not. I kept them off because they are rusted to **** I'll buy new ones. I have no idea what that could be. but I also got to replace the upper and lower ball joints because they are shot. but I'm going to replace the whole upper and lower control arms since I'm already having to take them off anyway. but I'm assuming that the clunking I hear driving on bumpy roads is that issue but I barely have play in the wheel when testing the ball joints.

I need help it's my only vehicle
The upper control arms are a assembly. Tip use a long bar, screwdriver or play bar under the control arm, to get the upper ball joint to release from the spindle. And install adjustable cam hardware
 






The upper control arms are a assembly. Tip use a long bar, screwdriver or play bar under the control arm, to get the upper ball joint to release from the spindle. And install adjustable cam hardware
I’m planning on buying upper and lower control arms by moog which is the whole assembly for both.
 






Does the whistling sound stay constant when you let off the gas and coast? Has the fluid ever been changed in the front and rear diff?
 






Does the whistling sound stay constant when you let off the gas and coast? Has the fluid ever been changed in the front and rear diff?
it is consistant. when the cvs were replaced there was liquid dripping from the fill hole in the front but no i have not changed the fluid personally
 






I’m planning on buying upper and lower control arms by moog which is the whole assembly for both.
What about the lower ball joints? If your lower ball joints are grease able, they been replaced. You have everything remove, that the time.
 






What about the lower ball joints? If your lower ball joints are grease able, they been replaced. You have everything remove, that the time.
the lower joints arent greaseable. they all are shot. the boots are litterally ripping off. but its gotta wait until i get the money to replace them with my next check.
 






The whistling started after the cv axles were replaced? I'm at a loss on what could be causing it. Light metal to metal contact can sound similar to a whistle. I'd start by double checking everything. I've had a shop put brake pads on backwards.
 






The whistling started after the cv axles were replaced? I'm at a loss on what could be causing it. Light metal to metal contact can sound similar to a whistle. I'd start by double checking everything. I've had a shop put brake pads on backwards.
i took it apart myself after i got it back i took off the rusted dust plate behind the rotor and it wasnt the issue. im bringing it back to the shop tomorrow to see whats up. i just want some help from here to
 






the lower joints arent greaseable. they all are shot. the boots are litterally ripping off. but its gotta wait until i get the money to replace them with my next check.
Then they are orignal. Just fyi one of my lower ball joint is a loose fit. And it common.
 












The new rubber seal on the cv axle rubbing against the inner dust shield of the steering knuckle ( not the brake dust shield) , as the cv axle rotates, will cause the sound you describe.
 






Also dust seal of the diff rubbing against the CV axle. When I replaced my diff seals, they would whistle for a while until those seals wore in.
 






but I'm assuming that the clunking I hear driving on bumpy roads is that issue but I barely have play in the wheel when testing the ball joints.
The clunking you hear on bumpy roads could easily be the torsion bars rubbing on the frame
The 95-97 trucks did not have a teflon pad between the t bar and the frame, and as the suspension cycles you will hear/feel clunks on the frame rails as the torsion spring loads and unloads

Whistling noise could be the rubber boots on the new CV axle rubbing against themselves, many aftermarket CV axles do not have enough spread on the boot and the ribs will rub on each other. To fix it undo the small clamp, spread the boot out over the axle shaft and apply a new clamp, thus stretching out the CV boot so they no longer rub
Also if the shop used a cheap wheel bearing it can cause all sorts of issues, the cheaper wheel bearings here have been known to last weeks or months not years.

Otherwise lets see what the shop says about your new noise
 












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