2013 Sport 3.5 EB Died in traffic cranks won't fire up

[savagefan]

Back at it today, fuel pump is here don't want to do it. Installed the driver module as a hail Mary, no change. Can't get a siphon hose to reach the fuel so it's gonna be a bit dodgy dropping the gas tank. Earlier I had reported fuel rail pressure over 1000 psi which is fine but I am having troubles with this Scantool it reads the same pressure on my 2000 Excursion which is absurd, there is spark and cranking signal hence the decision to drop the tank- Tomorrow. I'd rather be hunting but the freezer is full now.

 

[mguy13sport]

How long does it run for before it dies? Is it stalling or just shut off?

 

[savagefan]

Back at it today, fuel pump is here don't want to do it. Installed the driver module as a hail Mary, no change. Can't get a siphon hose to reach the fuel so it's gonna be a bit dodgy dropping the gas tank. Earlier I had reported fuel rail pressure over 1000 psi which is fine but I am having troubles with this Scantool it reads the same pressure on my 2000 Excursion which is absurd, there is spark and cranking signal hence the decision to drop the tank- Tomorrow. I'd rather be hunting but the freezer is full now.

Also, does anyone have a decent link to a step by step on dropping this tank please?

 

[savagefan]

How long does it run for before it dies? Is it stalling or just shut off?

Just a super weak idle for 15-20 seconds then dies.

 

[ecoboost_xsport]

Back at it today, fuel pump is here don't want to do it. Installed the driver module as a hail Mary, no change. Can't get a siphon hose to reach the fuel so it's gonna be a bit dodgy dropping the gas tank. Earlier I had reported fuel rail pressure over 1000 psi which is fine but I am having troubles with this Scantool it reads the same pressure on my 2000 Excursion which is absurd, there is spark and cranking signal hence the decision to drop the tank- Tomorrow. I'd rather be hunting but the freezer is full now.

Yeah, it sucks to get to the fuel pump. If you're feeling really adventurous, you can always do what I did, lol. Sucks first time out, but so easy going forward.

How to Create In-Cabin Access for the LPFP Module [Step-By-Step Guide]

I was really dreading installing the fuel hanger that I had installed the Deatschwerks DW300c into. Reason being…I was dreading dropping the fuel tank as the Ford Explorer doesn’t have top access from within the vehicle. This would mean taking the driveshaft down, removing the exhaust, removing...

www.fortheworkshop.com

 

[ecoboost_xsport]

Just a super weak idle for 15-20 seconds then dies.

Sounding more and more like your LPFP is going out...

 

[savagefan]

Yeah, it sucks to get to the fuel pump. If you're feeling really adventurous, you can always do what I did, lol. Sucks first time out, but so easy going forward.

How to Create In-Cabin Access for the LPFP Module [Step-By-Step Guide]

I was really dreading installing the fuel hanger that I had installed the Deatschwerks DW300c into. Reason being…I was dreading dropping the fuel tank as the Ford Explorer doesn’t have top access from within the vehicle. This would mean taking the driveshaft down, removing the exhaust, removing...

www.fortheworkshop.com

Ooh, I think this is the ticket. Do you remember if there is enough clearance to use a jigsaw with a shortened blade? I only have a straight pair of tinsnips but can buy the L and R curved if needed. How long did it take you?

 

[ecoboost_xsport]

Ooh, I think this is the ticket. Do you remember if there is enough clearance to use a jigsaw with a shortened blade? I only have a straight pair of tinsnips but can buy the L and R curved if needed. How long did it take you?

I intentionally didn't want to use any tool that would create a spark, just because....well, I'm overly cautious, lol. But there's only about 2 inches of depth to the top of the tank, however there are hoses and wires closer than that. I wouldn't use a jigsaw, tbh. Tin snips work well or you can get a Harbor Freight air nibbler pretty cheap. Buy it, use it, return it if you want to be extra cheap, lol.

It took a while since I was trying to make it real pretty, but we did it in like 30 minutes when my friend had to replace his LPFP and it was 2AM, raining and only a cellphone flashlight to illuminate the work area, haha.

 

[savagefan]

I intentionally didn't want to use any tool that would create a spark, just because....well, I'm overly cautious, lol. But there's only about 2 inches of depth to the top of the tank, however there are hoses and wires closer than that. I wouldn't use a jigsaw, tbh. Tin snips work well or you can get a Harbor Freight air nibbler pretty cheap. Buy it, use it, return it if you want to be extra cheap, lol.

It took a while since I was trying to make it real pretty, but we did it in like 30 minutes when my friend had to replace his LPFP and it was 2AM, raining and only a cellphone flashlight to illuminate the work area, haha.

Thanks for the heads up, no jigsaw. I will be cool but dry tomorrow, actually looking forward to the job now. Sorta.

 

[savagefan]

Well the new pump is in, great idea for the floor access ecoboost. The car still does not run. I am beyond stumped and aching like crazy. What should I check next?

 

[ecoboost_xsport]

Well the new pump is in, great idea for the floor access ecoboost. The car still does not run. I am beyond stumped and aching like crazy. What should I check next?

Well, hmmm, really seemed like that would be the issue., even though some of your other tests weren't pointing in that direction. Had a lot of the same symptoms I've seen before...

just thought about something...have you checked compression yet? I only ask this because I went back and read some of the symptons you were posting. You said in one post that the oil level has risen from gas contamination....really only place that could happen is the cylinder...

 

[savagefan]

My old compression tester went south on me, I'll pick one up. Before this happened the engine ran very smooth at idle with no issues but the heavy missfires at 50mph and up. When the car quit, son was just cruising home from school in medium traffic all seemed well until it crapped the bed. If the chain(s) jumped there would have been some noises backfires etc no? I sent my OBDLink MX+ back it is not working right and their tech people can't come up with a fix so I am working blind on this. Is there a decent scan tool out there for the hobbyist? Thanks for your help so far.

 

[mguy13sport]

Any USB to ELM connector with the high speed switching will work with ForScan on a laptop. My OBDLink MX is years old and sometimes needs a reboot (i leave it plugged in).

Its kind of bizarre you aren't seeing any change with all these new parts. Lets take a step back. What was the last repair you did on the car before this issue started? Ive lost track haha. I remember you saying it did run even with the blown out turbo seals. I still have a suspicion the exhaust is tainted with oil from all that blowby. Did you ever replace the oxygen sensors? At this point, that's cheap insurance considering how deep you are into this.

It may also help to upload a video of the car running poorly on youtube.

 

[savagefan]

We bought The car, running with a blown left turbo. We replaced that and cleaned both cats. It ran for 2 days very smooth at idle and low load, with a miss under load at speed. It quit in traffic as mentioned above, a new set of sparkplugs and it ran for a few minutes in the driveway then stalled about 20 feet and hasn't ran properly since. I have changed the other turbo recleaned the cats and sensors again changed fuel pump and its control module. New air filter and 2 oil changes.

 

[savagefan]

Update, checked compression on cyl #6 120 psi. Chain didn't jump. May check the rest tomorrow. Spark at same hole jumps a 1" gap good fat blue spark. So either the injectors are not providing enough fuel, or spark timing is out. How do we check timing on the ecoboost?

 

[savagefan]

Latest update, sent the dongle back it will not connect to 4 different cars but pairs with my phone. Used a OBDLink sx USB and it works well. So Fuel system 1 status is open loop (Cold engine of course) Fuel system 2 status Unknown. What are fuel systems 1and 2?
Short term fuel % trim bank 1 = 0%

Long term fuel % trim bank 1 =0%

Short term fuel %trim bank 2 = 0%

Long term fuel % trim bank 2 = 3.12%

Fuel level input 25.4%

Further down the list of PIDs it shows short term fuel trim 99.219 and voltage at bank 2 sensor 2 0.37v

I'm not sure what any of this means. Fuel rail pressure varies between 750 and 1065 psi during cranking. Disconnecting the solenoid at the HP pump will bleed pressure down to 75psi. Still won't start. What PIDs should I check next? Does any of the above relate to a fault? TIA as always.

 

[savagefan]

Ok I'm getting closer. Spark advance #1 cylinder 10 degrees cranking. The engine has been flooding all along, I mistakenly thought it was starving. When I disconnect the fuel inlet valve solenoid on the High pressure fuel pump it will actually run quite normal for about 10 seconds until it runs out of gas and quits. So my guess is the ECU is keeping the rail pressure too high or keeping the injectors open too long. where to go from here?

 

[savagefan]

Still not starting but I now have codes PO223(Pending) and PO122 PO131 PO132 (historic)

 

[mguy13sport]

Throttle position sensor and oxygen sensors.

 

[savagefan]

I have to find a reliable way to test the throttle body, because the code can point to bad communication with PCM, one or both could be bad or a crappy connection. I'm about ready to throw in the towel on this one, cuz "Baby it's cold outside".