*Solved*. (Defective, faulty) fuel pumps.

[Mr. Alligator]

It has been hard to keep aftermarket fuel pumps working in my truck. In fact, so difficult that I cut an access panel in the floorboard, which has saved me in snowstorms, remote locations, and areas where I do not have the ability to lower the fuel tank to replace a failed fuel pump. I also keep an extra fuel pump and a fuel line tool under the access panel cover.

The aftermarket fuel pumps fail so frequently that I began tracking fuel pump life.

First option: Bosch. After reading recommendations on this Forum for Bosch fuel pumps, I installed a Bosch pump. It lasted 80,000 miles. This did not seem very impressive, and seemed sort of mediocre.

Option two: CarQuest. Figuring they were all made by a cheap Chinese factory, I thought I would try CarQuest. This one lasted 14,000 miles. Rotten junk, but I deserved this for buying a lesser fuel pump.

Option three: Delphi. So I replaced the CarQuest fuel pump with a Delphi, top of the line from Advance Auto. This one was the most confounding. Although the pump seemed to make some quiet whirling noise in the fuel tank, there was zero pressure at the rail. The Delphi fuel pump had only been in the tank for 2,000 miles. Already failed? Impossible.

Checked and cleaned relay connections, checked fuses, tested inertia switch, cleaned electric connections. Nothing. Then I discovered that the Delphi pump delivered great pressure for a few seconds, then back to zero pressure. Where was the fuel going? No leaks anywhere, and this was a rapid loss of pressure. Fuel must be going back into the tank. Removed the pump (again) and checked and re the fuel line. No problem, but after reinstalling the pump, it still did the exact same thing.… lots of pressure for a few seconds, then zero pressure. I blew air backward through the pump, which flowed freely. This was where the fuel was going! Back into the fuel tank, through the pump.

installed my back-up pump, and the truck fired right up.

Lesson one: even a pump that cycles on and off with a key, could be faulty. Lesson Two: I guess an 80,000 mile fuel pump is now looking very good. So, back to Bosch it is. Hmmmm….

Good luck with your fuel pumps!!!

 

[J_C]

Rock Auto shows the Bosch have a lifetime warranty, so at 80K mi per, I would have just replaced under warranty. And still would if you need a new one again unless you already threw away the Bosch. If I needed a new fuel pump right away I might buy another one to get it done ASAP but still get a new pump from Bosch from the warranty and have it as a spare.

 

[toypaseo]

Cross my fingers that my Delphi from NAPA lasts.

I had a Bosch one, but it ended up being the wrong choice of the two choices of styles. All the posts on here show replacing a cylinder shaped fuel pump, but not the plastic housed one I have. I’ll sell the wrong one with filter sock on here someday.

 

[donalds]

My walbro fuel pump has been great so far

 

[fast_dave]

Just dropping my .02

In 2018, after 20 years and 201,190 miles, I broke forum "protocall".

I threw caution to the wind and purchased a TYC Brand replacement off of Rock Auto (PUMP ONLY - NOT a complete assembly) for $15, and inserted it into the Factory Original Bosch Pump Assembly (20 minutes labor - simple swap out).

Result: The TYC worked like a charm, AND the benefit of offering more PSI than the original factory Bosch ever put out during the multiple times I checked it over the 20 years it was running.

Additionally, as a safety measure, I didn't use the small fuel strainer it came with, and bought an Extra Large Fuel Strainer "aka Sock" from Rock Auto; Denso Model 952-0033 for $7 that replicated the factory original fuel strainer.

From my 2018 records, in the end:

$15 TYC Fuel Pump, $7 Denso Strainer, $5 Shipping 5% R-A Discount Code= $26.35 TOTAL + My Labor (I'm a "tank dropper")

I'll also add that from the beginning I always tried to keep my fuel tank 3/4 to Full which helps keep the fuel pump cool.

TYC 152017A

Denso 952-0033

 

[Mr. Alligator]

My walbro fuel pump has been great so far

Is that Walbro pump match stock specs? Or is this Walbro pump a high flow/high pressure unit that would not work with a stock 4.0 SOHC?

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[Mr. Alligator]

(I'm a "tank dropper")

I totally understand that not everyone would want to cut an access panel in their truck, for a number of reasons. But these pumps seem to fail regularly, and if you need to drop your tank….

(1). Do you get towed home to drop the tank?

(2j. Where would you drop the tank if you are out of town? Can/do you really perform this repair on the road?

(3). What tools do you need for this? Do you carry all of this with you?

(4). What do you do with a full tank of fuel? This is when the fuel pumps seem to fail….

(5). Do you need a lift? Or just use jacks and jack stands?

Thank you for your wise thoughts and help.

 

[donalds]

Is that Walbro pump match stock specs? Or is this Walbro pump a high flow/high pressure unit that would not work with a stock 4.0 SOHC?

Happy Thanksgiving!

The pump is oe for lots of cars like Toyota Subaru...
The pump is high performance high pressure
It is a drop in replacement

Very high quality pump I wouldn't think twice about it
Amazon product ASIN B000WCY80E

Walbro GSS342 Intank Fuel Pump 255LPH High Pressure (Universal)

Walbro Part Number: GSS342Type: Universal Intank Fuel PumpFuel: GasHorsepower: 500HP+Flow Rate: 255LPH Caution: Extremely High Counterfeit Rate - Buy from an Authorized Dealer Only

walbrofuelpumps.com

 

[Josh P]

The GSS342 is a good pump, I have one in my 86 merkur XR4TI

 

[FredFranzwa]

It has been hard to keep aftermarket fuel pumps working in my truck. In fact, so difficult that I cut an access panel in the floorboard, which has saved me in snowstorms, remote locations, and areas where I do not have the ability to lower the fuel tank to replace a failed fuel pump. I also keep an extra fuel pump and a fuel line tool under the access panel cover.

The aftermarket fuel pumps fail so frequently that I began tracking fuel pump life.

First option: Bosch. After reading recommendations on this Forum for Bosch fuel pumps, I installed a Bosch pump. It lasted 80,000 miles. This did not seem very impressive, and seemed sort of mediocre.

Option two: CarQuest. Figuring they were all made by a cheap Chinese factory, I thought I would try CarQuest. This one lasted 14,000 miles. Rotten junk, but I deserved this for buying a lesser fuel pump.

Option three: Delphi. So I replaced the CarQuest fuel pump with a Delphi, top of the line from Advance Auto. This one was the most confounding. Although the pump seemed to make some quiet whirling noise in the fuel tank, there was zero pressure at the rail. The Delphi fuel pump had only been in the tank for 2,000 miles. Already failed? Impossible.

Checked and cleaned relay connections, checked fuses, tested inertia switch, cleaned electric connections. Nothing. Then I discovered that the Delphi pump delivered great pressure for a few seconds, then back to zero pressure. Where was the fuel going? No leaks anywhere, and this was a rapid loss of pressure. Fuel must be going back into the tank. Removed the pump (again) and checked and re the fuel line. No problem, but after reinstalling the pump, it still did the exact same thing.… lots of pressure for a few seconds, then zero pressure. I blew air backward through the pump, which flowed freely. This was where the fuel was going! Back into the fuel tank, through the pump.

installed my back-up pump, and the truck fired right up.

Lesson one: even a pump that cycles on and off with a key, could be faulty. Lesson Two: I guess an 80,000 mile fuel pump is now looking very good. So, back to Bosch it is. Hmmmm….

Good luck with your fuel pumps!!!

I think I have the same problem with a 1 1/2 yr old (about 20k miles) Carquest pump. I was driving it and our 95 Explorer (200K 4.0 4X4) experienced a major misfire, the airbag dash light came on and the gas gauge went to zero. To make matters worse, I just filled the truck with fuel. Relay is fine. Very frustrating!

 

[J_C]

^ Welcome to the forum. Bad fuel pump shouldn't cause an airbag light or the gas gauge to read wrong.

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge, should be getting high 30's to 40's PSI. Multiple unrelated electrical problems while driving, seems more like a low voltage condition, maybe your alternator just died and the battery was draining, or one of the bulk connectors under the hood came loose or is corroded:

2nd gen issues? Try this first!

Sometimes a gremlin can be caused by the smallest thing. There are 2 large wire bundle connectors on the firewall. Both are held tight with a 10mm bolt. Any bad connection in either plug can cause just about any issue. from bad transmission shifting, bad o2 sensor readings, no start, no...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[FredFranzwa]

Thanks for the response and the suggestions. I'll check that first. So you cut a hole right above the tank to access the pump?

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Yes I did. The fuel pump is in the gas tank…. To replace the fuel pump you have to either lower the tank, or cut an access panel in the floor above the tank.

Good luck and drive safe.

 

[J_C]

I'd prefer to drop the tank but yes some people cut a hole. There's probably topics with pictures exactly where to cut but not sure if it varied a little for a '95.

 

[C420sailor]

Before you do anything, check your battery terminals. My negative loosened on its own, and one of the symptoms was a fuel gauge reading zero. Very odd.

 

[J_C]

^ Yeah that's along the line of what I was wondering about power. You can completely remove the fuel pump but as long as the sending unit is good, won't have any effect on the dash fuel gauge... sort of doubly coincidental that they're both related to fuel and on the same assembly in the tank.

 

[floridacatfan]

I called walbro bc I had read it was made in the USA - they told me which pump to buy - never had another issue

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I called walbro bc I had read it was made in the USA - they told me which pump to buy - never had another issue

i had good luck with my delphi unit imo lasted a good long while even the one i got from 1a auto lasted good while too so not sure whay affects that. maybe the sock size and how much ya run it down to? very rarely does it go below 1/4

 

[fast_dave]

how much ya run it down to? very rarely does it go below 1/4

@Fix4Dirt = Best free tip that leads to overall fuel pump longevity. Fuel pump is kept cool by being immersed in fuel.

Add to it changing the fuel filter every 2 years. Backpressure (clogging) at the fuel filter really wears on the fuel pump.

But sadly, due to the coke can size of the fuel filter, the 80 percentile of owners think "nah, it's OK" and thus don't change it as often as it should be.

 

[410Fortune]

just replaced my Walbro with a bosch LOL
The walbro lasted about 7 years, but only 15K miles

So if high quality pumps do not last long in our trucks maybe it is not the pumps fault.
Maybe there are things happening to the pump that are decreasing its lifespan
Like running the tank low on fuel often (this will quickly kill a good pump)
With fuel so expensive it makes it hard to keep the tanks full all the time

like making the pump strain, (clogged filters, engine running with lean or rich codes, kinked fuel lines, excessive ETHENOL FUEL, excessive heat)

I know my exhaust was too close to my fuel tank for a long time (Bronco II) so I finally wrapped the exhaust pipe back there, I am sure that put strain on the pump

Eventually I changed my exhaust and now it dumps down in front of the rear axle

new bosch pump is like silent, I could tell my truck was happier right away, that old Walbro was trying really hard, but on its last legs.

I also have an access panel, I LOVE IT (Bronco II far easier then a Gen II sploder)
The access panel makes it possible to change the pump in minutes on the side of the road. I have used it about 4 times now in the last 10+ years