Pugly

The Good, The Bad, & the Pugly

1994 Purple Explorer XLT 4wd

I decided to have a registry for my "Other" rig so I can post things done and have a reference for it.

Pretty much stock drive train.

4.0 OHV-A4ld-1354e.
D35 front 4:56 Yukon gears, Aussie Locker.
2nd gen disc 8.8 rear 4:56 gears, Spartan Locker.

Front C-Clip eliminator Mod.

Slight lift with 2" Skyjacker coils & rear F-150 hybrid leaf packs.

3" PA body lift
Helpful thread with pics for the front body mounts
Pics of front body lift mounts

Swapped to manual hubs.
Double U-joint XJ steering shaft.

33" x 12.5" x 15" Cooper Discoverer ATX3, mounted on 15"x10" AR Outlaw1 alum wheels - full size matching spare.

Shocks:
Front Rancho 9000xl
Rear Rancho 9000xl
Duff Stabilizer shock.

Sway bar quick disconnects front & rear.
Custom tube sliders w/kickouts

22" LED light bar.
18w amber fog Led pods.
55w rock lights--2 front--1 rear over diff.
8 LED pods for rocker lights.

Full brush guard.
2.5" Fender Flares.

TTB Diff guard & Skid plate.

Custom roof rack with 48" Extreme Hi-Lift jack.

Flipped Tow hitch & front hooks for tow points.

Cobra19 CB & rear hatch mounted firestick antenna.
Rear view HD camera.
JVC DVD/CD/MP3 Head unit with 7" HD Monitor.
Sony 6.5" front speakers.
Rockford Fosgate 5.25" component rear speakers.
8" JL Audio sub in 2001 enclosure with 500w amp mounted on enclosure.

Custom made center console with CB/Rear view color monitor/2-12v outlets/ in-out temp display. D cell Maglite mounted on cargo panel. Truck bed liner on cargo floor.
Custom Cargo storage box with topside spare tire mount.

'99 Eddie Bauer Front Leather buckets.
'94 Limited Rear leather split bench.

 

[gmanpaint]

Hoses aren't the issue, the size of the spring clamps are. I think they go by MM.

Getting to the salvage yard isn't in the cards right now. I do not have any spring clamps on either rigs rad hoses, to reference with for online ordering.

I will keep googling! LOL

 

[gmanpaint]

Spent the day on the water pump R&R.

Got as far as installing the fan back on, and stopped. I fought and fought it for a long time, and when the urge to throw something came over me, I knew it was time to call it a day. I need a 2nd person to help with it, as I just can't seem to get the threads to start by myself. Super aggravating to say the least.

Will have a go again tomorrow. Still have to mix the anti-freeze with distilled water, and fill it back up too. A simple burping, and hope all is well.

I bought new hoses, but the new lower won't work. The pump side is too short, and won't reach. The old one was in great shape, so I just put it back on.

For future reference, and anybody else looking, this is the bolt tx sequence for the 4.0L pump.

Edit:
Got the fan on. New day, different attack approach. Laid over the engine half way from the Pass side, and was able to get my hand on the face of the clutch, to turn until the threads caught. 5 mins is all it took me. No leaks. Burped and ready for work Monday morning.

Next up is these leaky valve cover gaskets.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, I don't what I did to Pugly when changing the water pump, but it is idling at 2100 rpms. I can't figure it out. Can't find any broken or loose vac lines, and everything is plugged in right. The engine is making a whirring sound like it has a vac leak from the front, but for the life of me, I can't find it. Not sure if it is an actual leak sound, or a bearing sound either. At 2100 rpm's, everything is loud!

I have no idea how a vac leak can happen when changing a water pump either. The only thing removed remotely associated with air, was the intake duct, and it's seated just fine on both ends.

Only thing I can think of doing at this point is to start unplugging things like IAC, TPS, DPFE, MAF, etc.... one at a time, and see if anything happens. Disco the battery for a few mins, and maybe just an ECM glitch? It's just weird to me!

Edit:
Well, I did find the intake tube to have a bad seal on the inside of the tube to the TB. I messed with it, and put it back on. Same high Rpm's.
Disco the battery for a while. No change.

No CEL on.

Either the intake gasket or the valve cover has been leaking oil onto the dr side manifold for some time, and was already in the plans to be replaced, but it makes me wonder if it's somehow leaking air? It is running fine, just high idle tho, so that makes me doubt that as the cause.

One thing I can say is that since nothing makes the idle come down, it has to be running lean. I mean what else could it be? I can't keep running the engine like this, if that's the case, or the heads will burn up a valve, or a cat. If the head is cracked, blown gasket, etc... Wouldn't it run bad from loss of compression?

I cleaned the MAF, & TB. Nothing. Tomorrow I will try the MAP gas while running, and see if there is any noticeable RPM jump, but at 2k + rpms, it might be hard to hear that.

Sigh....Looks like Pugly is down for a while, and hopefully this isn't the end for the engine. An engine swap would be more work, but at 280k miles, it just might be game over.

Edit #2: Just for grins, I called a Ford dealer and asked for a price to change the Lower intake gaskets & valve cover gaskets. They said it was a 4.5 hr book job, and wanted over $1,100.00! Said $200 in parts. LOL, yeah..... no. So I called parts, and asked for a price on the lower intake gasket kit. Said they only sell them individually. $150, for both upper & lower, and I stopped them before looking up the valve cover gaskets. Looks like the good old Fel-Pro KIT wins again, if I find that to be the current issue.

 

[gmanpaint]

Tuesdays are much better than Mondays around here! Let me explain, if you have a minute!

We got a blast of warm air this morning, and it got to 70*! I took advantage of it, as a very cold, cold front is coming tomorrow, and dropping us into the 20's eventually. Blech!

I had sourced everything for the lower intake gasket repair, and was going to make room in the garage for Pugly, thinking I would need the heater, and be able to work evening's on it. As I was getting the trailer ready to move out, I had a thought. How can the idle somehow raise like it has, just from a water pump R&R? I traced my steps on the install in my head, when it dawned on me, I had to lean over the engine sideways, so I could get my hand on the face of the fan clutch, to get it threaded on.

That lead to the throttle cable, and cruise cable bracket. Did I smash it with my body, hand, etc...? Hmm... so I removed the intake tube, and disco'd the cables from the TB. I pushed on the butterfly to make sure it was closed. Yep, but it was dirty inside. So I cleaned it.

That lead me to look even further, and decided to remove the IAC valve, and clean it too. So I did. Took it apart, and let it soak in cleaner for a spell.

That lead me to inspecting the DPFE. I had another, and swapped it out. Silicone tubes are perfect, and not that old. Cool.

Put the IAC back on, and decided to use some silicone repair tape (stretchy kind for rad hose repair) around the intake tube ends, under the messed up round seals for the clamps. I searched for new seals yesterday, and found out they only come with the new tubes....... Which are discontinued, and a trip to the salvage yard was needed. Will do that another day!

Fired her up, and BAM! She had a starting idle of 1200 rpms, and slowly dropped to 700 rpms like normal! Put the Throttle cables back on, no change!

So she seems to be back in working order again. I can now wait to take her down to a friends shop, and knock out the intake gaskets in a day, when the opportunity arises. Not sure which item was the cause, and I really don't care right now either!

So yeah, what a difference a day can make. Yesterday was all doom & gloom, between work, relations, and this rigs issues. Well, screw everything else, Pugly is back in action!

WOOOOO!!!

 

[gmanpaint]

Next mod happening shortly. Parts ordered!

 

[Rick]

New reservoir? Or pump and reservoir?

 

[gmanpaint]

New reservoir? Or pump and reservoir?

Both........... Saginaw conversion!

 

[CDW6212R]

My thought, a Saginaw pump, it's stronger yes?

 

[gmanpaint]

My thought, a Saginaw pump, it's stronger yes?

Yes, and silent! lol

 

[gmanpaint]

Received all the Parts for the Saginaw pump conversion, but haven't had a good weekend since to get it done. This weekend has rains until early afternoon, and a clear Sunday. If that holds true, I am going to attempt to get this done.

I still need to get a pump pulley removal tool, but will rent one for it in the morning.

The Pump, Bracket kit with a full color instruction booklet, and a 4.5" 6 rib PSC overdrive pulley. Some Merc V, and a can of pressurized Kooler Kleen to flush the lines and cooler.

I use a 2 foot air hose to slip over a hard line (and clamp it), then thread it to the cans hose fitting. This works best done first, followed by a good shot of compressed air.

The pump is used on 2002-2006 V-6 Jeep Liberty's. This is a Brand new unit, with the semi transparent resi bottle included. It's a Napa Premium, but I believe it to be a rebranded unit, as the stamped PN pulls up the same from other websites. Lifetime warranty, so it will Chooch.

The pressure control valve has to be swapped with the stock valve, either old or new, your choice. I am using the old one.
The bottle has the return line in the same spot as the old spot, and the stock line fits perfectly (so they say).

The conversion bracket kit consists of a couple CNC plates, and all the hardware needed for the job. The instruction booklet differ's a bit from the download .pdf, but the differences are small. Either should work just fine, in case you mess up/misplace your paper copy they give.

OK, the Pulley.....

I decided I wanted an Overdrive replacement to help the new setup with the larger tires used. They weigh in at around 100 lbs with wheels each, and have a 12.5" ground gripping footprint. When used off road, and the sidewalls are up against rocks, dirt, sand, etc... it becomes much harder to turn them. This smaller 4.5" pulley offers an additional 15% more assistance to the gearbox. The tension pulley takes up the .75" difference in the stock belt, so no replacement belt is needed. Major plus here.

It's Billet Aluminum.

Fingers crossed, Mother nature allows me to work on this over the weekend.
I will add to this after it's done, and report if it's a win, or a dud!

 

[BKennedy]

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, patiently waiting we are. I have a new Saginaw pump someplace that I got to put in my 73 Ranchero, you just reminded me of another part I squirreled away. The old style isn't made to replace the Ford units directly, the brackets have to let it work. I think the old Saginaw pump will work on the 1st gen Explorer somehow won't it?

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes, patiently waiting we are. I have a new Sagainaw pump someplace that I got to put in my 73 Ranchero, you just reminded me of another part I squirreled away. The old style isn't made to replace the Ford units directly, the brackets have to let it work. I think the old Saginaw pump will work on the 1st gen Explorer somehow won't it?

I wish I could answer that for you, but can't.
There will be some modification done to the stock cast Alum pump bracket to make this pump work.

I will post pictures of the modification/install work, and you can judge for yourself with your pumps design.
Feel free to ask any specific measures now, before it gets installed, and I can't get them.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's your 1st gen that's getting the new Saginaw pump, but have you seen the 2nd gen PS mounting bracket to guess at all if the Saginaw pump may go in that one? I hope to be using that kind of bracket for my 92 Lincoln and the Ranchero, because those brackets are so great compared to older types. I'll be using the hydro boost MC for both of them, so the PS system should end up being the same for each.

 

[gmanpaint]

There are many Saginaw pumps with different bolt patterns just like Ford's have. The 2nd gen X is a 3 bolt triangle shape I believe. The same pump on the F150 is a 4 bolt.

This new sag pump is a 3 bolt, but is a T shape pattern, and the brackets allow it to be bolted to the stock brackets bolt pattern.

Since you have both pump and 2nd gen, you could see better than I can for your pump.

The hydro boost is something I am also looking at for the other rig. Let me know what your research results for a bolt on pump. I already know how to deal with the 3rd line on it. Lol

 

[CDW6212R]

The hydro boost is good for applications with low vacuum or poor brake power due to parts selection. In my case my Lincoln has the huge complicated TEVES system brake fluid pressure pump, and accumulator etc. It's in the way for a left header, and it takes special care long term. SO the hydro boost will be the best solution for that car. My old Ranchero has obsolete rotors and drums in certain sizes, plus the master cylinder is very scarce as well. So retrofitting different rotors etc, plus the hydro boost, ends up with easier to find parts, and better brakes.

The best hydro boost for what I have seen, are the 1999-2004 Mustang V8 units, those are newer than earlier hydro boost units of other brands etc, and on a popular car. All of the V8's had it in those models, and with minor varying wiring possible, they are the same basic unit from 99-04. The ABS modules also for those, same 99-04 are good years to use, just that traction control was on a rare few(TC imprinted on the units).

 

[gmanpaint]

I will eventually start that convo in the other rigs thread, and when I do, I will tag you in it. We can swap our findings and brainstorms there.

Pugly has some things other than this sag conversion needing done too. Been putting off a couple mods with parts stored, waiting to be installed for far too long now.

 

[gmanpaint]

Got called in for work today. Not going to try to do this saginaw swap in 1 day, so next weekend I will try again. Is what it is.

 

[Benjam]

My 94 got the proquipped saginaw conversion with a locally sourced used pump assembly. It works great! I love it so much I bought another for my 92. This time with a redhead steering gear.

Love following the truck all these years!

 

[BKennedy]

Did anybody do a thread just for this conversion? Ever since I got a Redhead steering gear and the Maxxis Razr 35's, I have noticed the PS could be better.