Coolant reservoir is emptying slowly - 2015 | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Coolant reservoir is emptying slowly - 2015

Also not certain it is the water pump. I hope not.

None showing up that I can see.
I suspect your mechanic is right about the water pump. Mine started losing coolant, but nothing in the oil. I noticed water/coolant on the alternator that had leaked from the weep hole. A simple pressure test will settle that for you. It's not a bad idea to change the timing chain and guides if your over 100K or there is any noticeable wear, the labor will be minimal since it all has to come off anyway. Another thing to do is the spark plugs, since the intake needs to come off or again, there's really not any extra labor to change them if there any where near needing replacement. The good news is, the 3.5/3.7 NA is pretty solid outside of the water pump, so your likely in good shape once this gets sorted out!
 



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You change the timing stuff so that doesn’t also fail in these problematic, poorly engineered engines. The last thing you want is a huge bill a year after a huge bill.
 






Also not certain it is the water pump. I hope not.

Mechanic told me it was the waterpump. They said the timing chain needed to be replaced when you change the water pump. Is that correct?
NO, that isn't correct as far as I know but it certainly is a good opportunity to get it and its components replaced. Most members have done so.

Peter
 






You change the timing stuff so that doesn’t also fail in these problematic, poorly engineered engines. The last thing you want is a huge bill a year after a huge bill.
Other then the water pump design, these are robust, reliable engines in the NA form. Yes adding a turbo (to any engine) will add expense and decrease reliability, but that is common sense.. The water pump replacement is not much different then timing belt replacements (which often include water pump replacement in the process) and cost about the same amount as this repair.
 






Peter is correct. One of the timing chain guides needs to be removed to access a bolt on the waterpump. However.. if the timing set has never been replaced now would be the best time.

I'm not sure if it was mentioned but you can put a dye in the coolant and run a pressure test. If the weephole was leaking you would certainly see coolant.
 






Other then the water pump design, these are robust, reliable engines in the NA form. Yes adding a turbo (to any engine) will add expense and decrease reliability, but that is common sense.. The water pump replacement is not much different then timing belt replacements (which often include water pump replacement in the process) and cost about the same amount as this repair.
This mechanic wants over 2000 to do the job.
 






I just had the WP, timing chain, tensioner, etc replaced this week on my 2016 Sport. The chain was getting noisy. $2300 at my local Ford Dealership.

I recommend you stop driving it and get it fixed. In 2018 we lost our 2011 XLT to a failed WP. It's trade value with a good engine would have been about $10k. I got $2k for it with the dead engine. I wasn't going to dump $6500 into it for a used engine/labor.
 












Also not certain it is the water pump. I hope not.

Mechanic told me it was the waterpump. They said the timing chain needed to be replaced when you change the water pump. Is that correct?
How many miles are on your vehicle?
 












face
Also not certain it is the water pump. I hope not.

Mechanic told me it was the waterpump. They said the timing chain needed to be replaced when you change the water pump. Is that correct?
I would absolutely replace the timing chain while doing the water pump. There's really no additional labor...just the parts.
 






face

I would absolutely replace the timing chain while doing the water pump. There's really no additional labor...just the parts.
The shop wants over 500 for the timing chain
 






The shop wants over 500 for the timing chain

Thats about what a complete timing kit costs from RockAuto so that's fair.

Its definitely worth taking care of it all at once even though it adds up quick. Getting to the front of the engine is like 6 hours of labor in itself.. transverse engines are labor intensive for some basic jobs.
 






Just over 100k
I am going to buck the trend. At just 100k miles I don't think changing the chains and even the guides is all that critical if money is tight. Check the chains for any stretching and the guides for any excessive wear. If they check out I think it will be fine to reuse them. I don't recall ever reading here of timing chain and/or guide failure regarding the 3.5L engine. It is very rare. Many 3.5L engines go well over 200k miles on the original water pump with no timing chain/guide issues. If you have the extra cash then change them. If you don't then reuse the parts because the risk is very minimal.
 






Cannot see a leak anywhere. Oil looks ok. In about 1 1/2 weeks coolant reservoir empty. Any ideas?
I have had this problem for a long time. The last thing I did was change the radiator cap... I need to check again
 






@Texas2022 I feel as if the advice here is pretty clear. Stop driving the vehicle before the engine gets ruined. Get the water pump replaced at a minimum. Yeah its expensive (the book procedure is to pull the engine out of the vehicle I believe). You can shop around if you would like. The timing chain and associated parts, not a bad idea as long as it is all taken apart if you can afford the parts for it. If you can't and when they take it apart and say the timing stuff is in good shape (if it is) then don't replace that stuff. Its always a gamble for this situation if you do the timing stuff or not at the same time.
 






Cannot see a leak anywhere. Oil looks ok. In about 1 1/2 weeks coolant reservoir empty. Any ideas?
Check the transmission fluid. The cooler line runs through the front radiator, and if it pops the coolant can end up ( uphappily) in the transmission.
 






I have had this problem for a long time. The last thing I did was change the radiator cap... I need to check again
Welcome to the Forum Robert. :wave:
If you have the 2010 that is shown in your profile, this issue may not apply to you if you have an external water pump.

Peter
 






Cannot see a leak anywhere. Oil looks ok. In about 1 1/2 weeks coolant reservoir empty. Any ideas?
Water pump? If you're not smelling coolant cooking off in the engine bay where it's vaporizing from a hose or seeing an obvious leak from cap, etc.; absent obvious signs of HG leak, I would look at the water pump. Any overheating issues?
 



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Cannot see a leak anywhere. Oil looks ok. In about 1 1/2 weeks coolant reservoir empty. Any ideas?
I agree on head gasket weeping by. You won't see that in the oil. Smell the exhaust and see if you smell coolant. I know that's weird but it's a good way too see. Also, check your plugs. Coolant will clean them a little and mabey you can see what cylinder it is.
 






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