Weird !!! Stalling Sputtering problem 2004 Explorer XLT 6 Cyl 4.0L | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Weird !!! Stalling Sputtering problem 2004 Explorer XLT 6 Cyl 4.0L

Witsend

Member
Joined
August 2, 2022
Messages
11
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4
City, State
Kettering.ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Explorer 6C 4.0L XLT
I am worn out on this! I have a 2004 Explorer XLT 4.0L 6 Cyl. I can fresh start vehicle, anytime of day with maybe momentary sputter for 2 seconds going from Park to Drive. I can travel at 35-40MPH through three or four lights, no stalling, fine idle at stops. Get on highway, drive 70mph for 10 miles, take exit, go through and sometimes stop 3 lights and 35 mph between them. no problems, idles and runs smooth. arrive destination, and 10 minutes later do a restart. sometimes the sputtering will lead to a stall, sometimes I can rev it and it smooth for a second, then stall, keep doing this process for 10 minutes and then finally a high rev in neutral drop into drive and and go. if it seems normal, I'll get on highway and be fine. exit highway and go through three lights and be fine.
I was getting O2 sensors bank 1 and 2 and 1 and 2 positions. replaced all four, replaced PCV valve, replaced MAF sensor, replaced EGR, fuel filter, fuel pressure part (with charcoal), removed manifold, replaced pressure sensor on top of engine under intake manifold, replaced fuel pump. WTH???? Im at a complete loss! oh, replaced spark plugs and ignition wires are fine. I mean when it runs, its smooth as new. it strikes after a restart having sat for a few minutes. Oh, new air filter too. I almost feel like they designed a vehicle to try and not run more than try to run!! please help!! Thank you!
 



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iac heat soaking? and welcome!
 






Thanks! If it had an IAC i probably would have got a new one of those! Lol! I guess it has the electronic IAC. What do you think? I’m not sure what heat soaking means? Thanks.
 






Thanks! If it had an IAC i probably would have got a new one of those! Lol! I guess it has the electronic IAC. What do you think? I’m not sure what heat soaking means? Thanks.
my bad, thats right! the later ones didnt have an IAC! ive made this mistake a few times now 😂
 






Hey, no problem. I appreciate the time and response!
 






I am worn out on this! I have a 2004 Explorer XLT 4.0L 6 Cyl. I can fresh start vehicle, anytime of day with maybe momentary sputter for 2 seconds going from Park to Drive. I can travel at 35-40MPH through three or four lights, no stalling, fine idle at stops. Get on highway, drive 70mph for 10 miles, take exit, go through and sometimes stop 3 lights and 35 mph between them. no problems, idles and runs smooth. arrive destination, and 10 minutes later do a restart. sometimes the sputtering will lead to a stall, sometimes I can rev it and it smooth for a second, then stall, keep doing this process for 10 minutes and then finally a high rev in neutral drop into drive and and go. if it seems normal, I'll get on highway and be fine. exit highway and go through three lights and be fine.
I was getting O2 sensors bank 1 and 2 and 1 and 2 positions. replaced all four, replaced PCV valve, replaced MAF sensor, replaced EGR, fuel filter, fuel pressure part (with charcoal), removed manifold, replaced pressure sensor on top of engine under intake manifold, replaced fuel pump. WTH???? Im at a complete loss! oh, replaced spark plugs and ignition wires are fine. I mean when it runs, its smooth as new. it strikes after a restart having sat for a few minutes. Oh, new air filter too. I almost feel like they designed a vehicle to try and not run more than try to run!! please help!! Thank you!
I am curious on something so bear with me. Are you running the air-conditioning during this time? Have you had the problem before and if not, was the air-conditioning running/engaged previously?
As a test, try driving the vehicle and not running the air-conditioning. If that makes any difference what-so-ever let us know.
I have a theory and it deals with the condensation that is draining from the firewall (it's located right above the transmission and happens to drain right above/around the transmission harness plug).

My other thought would be something with the exhaust (cats being old/clogged) but that should throw a set of codes and get red/orange if overheated (you should be able to see this easily at night).

Ryan
 






I am curious on something so bear with me. Are you running the air-conditioning during this time? Have you had the problem before and if not, was the air-conditioning running/engaged previously?
As a test, try driving the vehicle and not running the air-conditioning. If that makes any difference what-so-ever let us know.
I have a theory and it deals with the condensation that is draining from the firewall (it's located right above the transmission and happens to drain right above/around the transmission harness plug).

My other thought would be something with the exhaust (cats being old/clogged) but that should throw a set of codes and get red/orange if overheated (you should be able to see this easily at night).

Ryan
Thanks Ryan, I’ll give this a shot. You may be onto something. When the vehicle first started acting up, there was a day around there I took my dog to a large area to run without the leash. I left the vehicle running because starting and restarting was ‘touchy’ because my Transmission neutral safety switch was causing unpredictable starts. I had the a/c on without realizing or thinking about it. I walked about 20 feet away, watching dog, then after a few minutes, turned to walk back and saw a continuous ‘flow’ dripping to the ground from the rear of the engine area (firewall). It was flowing at about 4-5 drops per second and looked like maybe had already dropped a third to half a cup on the ground in just those few minutes. I moved forward, got out, and ran fingers in liquid and sniffed. No gas or coolant. It was like water! I checked coolant level, it was ok, and didn’t seem like the source. Turned off a/c and didn’t really think more about it…
I’ll run it using a/c and without a/c and report back. Thanks Ryan! You may be onto something!!
 






Thanks Ryan, I’ll give this a shot. You may be onto something. When the vehicle first started acting up, there was a day around there I took my dog to a large area to run without the leash. I left the vehicle running because starting and restarting was ‘touchy’ because my Transmission neutral safety switch was causing unpredictable starts. I had the a/c on without realizing or thinking about it. I walked about 20 feet away, watching dog, then after a few minutes, turned to walk back and saw a continuous ‘flow’ dripping to the ground from the rear of the engine area (firewall). It was flowing at about 4-5 drops per second and looked like maybe had already dropped a third to half a cup on the ground in just those few minutes. I moved forward, got out, and ran fingers in liquid and sniffed. No gas or coolant. It was like water! I checked coolant level, it was ok, and didn’t seem like the source. Turned off a/c and didn’t really think more about it…
I’ll run it using a/c and without a/c and report back. Thanks Ryan! You may be onto something!!
Well from my experience, my 2003 Explorer with the 4.0 engine had a similar problem. Ran fine but if I got stuck in traffic or say in a drive-thru for a while with the air-conditioning on, my explorer would sputter or seem to misfire temporarily a few times as I tried to pull away. It would do it once or twice and then never again. I only saw this during hot (summer) months when running the air-conditioning and not in the winter.
So I did this mod and it seemed to fix the problem.
It may not be your issue, but it sounds similar to what happened to mine.
Ryan

 






Well from my experience, my 2003 Explorer with the 4.0 engine had a similar problem. Ran fine but if I got stuck in traffic or say in a drive-thru for a while with the air-conditioning on, my explorer would sputter or seem to misfire temporarily a few times as I tried to pull away. It would do it once or twice and then never again. I only saw this during hot (summer) months when running the air-conditioning and not in the winter.
So I did this mod and it seemed to fix the problem.
It may not be your issue, but it sounds similar to what happened to mine.
Ryan

Idled smooth, both with a/c or not. Shut down after 15 min. Waited 10 min. Did restart. Immediate sputtering that led to stall in 5 min. It’s the restart…
 






It was restart. Idled fine for 15 min. Shut down for 5-10. Then did restart, immediate sputtering that led to stall in 5 min.
 






Back in the 60's when I had my auto repair shop and it was summer I would say vapor lock on fuel. BUT it's not the 60's anymore oh well.🙄
 






Back in the 60's when I had my auto repair shop and it was summer I would say vapor lock on fuel. BUT it's not the 60's anymore oh well.🙄
Back in the 60's when I had my auto repair shop and it was summer I would say vapor lock on fuel. BUT it's not the 60's anymore oh well.🙄
Im heavily weighing now on clogged catalytic converters. I got a P0171 bank 1 too lean and a P0174 bank 2 too lean. I got a can of cataclean and added to 1/4 tank gas.anybody got thoughts? Im going to drive it down this evening, will report back! Wish me luck!
 






You haven't said that you either cleaned or replaced the idle air control valve as was suggested. Rough running at idle, with the throttle body flap closed (choking off the air) is the exact symptom of an IAC that is not opening and allowing bypass air into the engine.
 






The year and model I have does not have an IAC. It’s like a straight electronic signal.
 






Yesterday evening was ugly event of ‘babying’ vehicle back home through sputtering stalls. The cataclean bottle poured into 1/4 tank has not been working, although it has not completely cycled yet. Will update more on progress…
 






Back in the 60's when I had my auto repair shop and it was summer I would say vapor lock on fuel. BUT it's not the 60's anymore oh well.🙄
It's not uncommon to have a fuel/gas cap problem or bypass hose causing a vent issue which could indeed contribute to a vapor lock type of issue.
 






It's not uncommon to have a fuel/gas cap problem or bypass hose causing a vent issue which could indeed contribute to a vapor lock type of issue.
I tried the gas cap thing and interestingly each new cap I would get for the 04 had 3 points of plastic teeth that had to line up with three slits on the intake well that you had to line up, push in, and twist. My 04 has two teeth on the cap and two places on the pour in well to line up and push and twist. So I thought I had a cheap cap that could be replaced, but they kept coming in as the other type that didn’t fit!!! Ugh!!
 






You can unbolt the exhaust right behind the cats and feel with your hand for exhaust flow there while having someone rev the engine. Flow should be strong under rev and feel similar to a hair dryer on low setting. Also, if the exhaust does not get noticeably louder when disconnected right behind the cats, that is a clear sign of clogged cats. You would also have really bad fuel mileage.
 






Only other thing I can think of is bad ignition control module.
 



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I tried the gas cap thing and interestingly each new cap I would get for the 04 had 3 points of plastic teeth that had to line up with three slits on the intake well that you had to line up, push in, and twist. My 04 has two teeth on the cap and two places on the pour in well to line up and push and twist. So I thought I had a cheap cap that could be replaced, but they kept coming in as the other type that didn’t fit!!! Ugh!!
I just checked my 2003 model. Mine has 3 "teeth" for engagement of the fuel cap into the filler neck. Mine looks just like the Motorcraft FC961 model here - Amazon product ASIN B000C5FL84
 






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