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Project Vulture

Got tired of the weak cheap lights after one of the mounts rusted and broke off after some rowdy fun, so I ran over to the local junk yard and pulled a pair of factory fogs off one of the 2nd-gens, drilled some holes in a spare roof bar, and made a wide-angle light so I can finally see where I'm turning at night. Kind of wonder why I didn't think of buying the lights from the junk yard in the first place, since they're pretty solid and dirt cheap.

As always, don't be stupid when it comes to wiring, always ground your circuits, and for crying out loud, wrap your splices with electrical tape. (Not a fan of heat shrink.)

Don't have any pics yet, will try to get some when I have time. Is it ugly? Yes! Do vultures eat what they can find? Yes!
 



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Always good to be safe with wiring, I use what I can, heat shrink or tape, whichever I got on hand

So ya mounted the bumper fogs, to the roof cross members?? That's a new one for me, interested to see that
 






@DemonMudder I'd take some pics now, but it's dark outside.

Trust me, it ain't pretty, but it's super easy to get replacement bulbs, since they're the same type as factory!
 






I mean, pretty for effectiveness, the ladder is nicer, as long as they work and well at that. Especially since yeah that makes replacing a lot easier!

Yeah, I get that, not a rush on seeing 😂
 






Always good to be safe with wiring, I use what I can, heat shrink or tape, whichever I got on hand

So ya mounted the bumper fogs, to the roof cross members?? That's a new one for me, interested to see that
i too want to see it! i considered puttin one of em leds up on the roof crossbar... will want to see this :) though knowing me ill pull 5 sets and put em all up there... and then draw too much current 😂
 






To all who are looking at this, don't think you'll get any throw AT ALL with this setup. I picked a short-range fog light for the flood pattern. The only purpose of these lights is so that I can see around corners before turning in the dark, and it does that and nothing else. DO NOT expect to be able to put a bunch of these on your roof to see farther in the dark, because you won't get it!

I wouldn't try to use an X-clamp or any thing like that on the plastic roof bars, nor would I recommend drilling into the already weak cross bar. I bolted them directly to the sliders in a fixed position so that they wouldn't ever have to be re-aimed.
20220708_131209.jpg


I ran the ground wires through the rear window and under the ceiling handles, making sure to scrape the headliner back around the metal so that a good contact can be maintained. I would highly recommend against using this method, personally, but I didn't have the length of wire to run it anywhere else at the time.
20220708_132701.jpg
 






It ain't the worst setup, especially since it does work and its cheap. Looks a little funky who cares that much, it gets the job done. Curious to see what you'd do for auxiliary reverse lights now, similar setup?
 






@DemonMudder I wouldn't bother setting up auxiliary reverse lights, but if I wanted rear-facing lights, I would most probably put 'em on the roof and wire them to a switch on the dash, same as these. If I used more factory fog lights, I'd most likely modify the bracket to get rid of the "handle" from the top (which is actually part of the structure for the bumper cover, which is absent from mine). On the front lights, it's angled well for a twig deflector, but on the rear lights, it would be angled forward and catch on every thing.
 






@DemonMudder I wouldn't bother setting up auxiliary reverse lights, but if I wanted rear-facing lights, I would most probably put 'em on the roof and wire them to a switch on the dash, same as these. If I used more factory fog lights, I'd most likely modify the bracket to get rid of the "handle" from the top (which is actually part of the structure for the bumper cover, which is absent from mine). On the front lights, it's angled well for a twig deflector, but on the rear lights, it would be angled forward and catch on every thing.
Well, thats kind of what I mean, lights on the rear, for the rear, I used mine as both reverse lights and just lights in general. Yeah, definitely have to get rid of the "handle" if ya did.
 






i got my aux reverses under my bumper (normally i wouldnt but its shielded by my hitch etc down there)
 






Welp, finally got my hitch receiver on to day.
20220715_122250.jpg


As you can see, it does hang a bit lower than the fog lights, but not by much. It's shoved back pretty far, almost touching the radiator, which kind of serves as a little reminder of how unprotected the radiator is when the bumper cover is removed.

I've run over plenty of tree sprouts with no radiator protection, though, so don't think it ain't "Built FORD Tough". This hitch receiver is a Class III, rated for 9,000 lb straight line pull. I'm sure these little hoses won't be worried about catching any rocks from here on out.
20220715_122319.jpg


They fit perfectly between the bar and the radiator. I'm thinking maybe some kind of slider bar or skid plate to connect this with the Superlift crossmember in the future... there's kind of a big "Catch On Rock" gap between the go-go parts and the crashy parts.
 






Welp, finally got my hitch receiver on to day.View attachment 431645

As you can see, it does hang a bit lower than the fog lights, but not by much. It's shoved back pretty far, almost touching the radiator, which kind of serves as a little reminder of how unprotected the radiator is when the bumper cover is removed.

I've run over plenty of tree sprouts with no radiator protection, though, so don't think it ain't "Built FORD Tough". This hitch receiver is a Class III, rated for 9,000 lb straight line pull. I'm sure these little hoses won't be worried about catching any rocks from here on out.View attachment 431648

They fit perfectly between the bar and the radiator. I'm thinking maybe some kind of slider bar or skid plate to connect this with the Superlift crossmember in the future... there's kind of a big "Catch On Rock" gap between the go-go parts and the crashy parts.
now can ya put a shackle in the hitch? will look like its sticking its tongue out... :D also can be used as a pull point, but thats secondary ;)
 






20220715_122332.jpg


Here it is, folks! The great void spanning between the hitch receiver and the crossmember!

I don't run with the D-ring in. Reduces clearance, and people steal 'em. I put it in exactly when I'm going to use it, and put it away exactly when I'm done.
 






Tore apart the dash at the same time as Hazey's to replace burned out bulbs in the gauge, and messed up the ground wire on the switch for my roof lights, so I've got to fix that again.

Somehow managed to lose the right fender flare AGAIN, stupid thing! I went wheeling 2 days ago (minor) and it hung in there just fine and made it back to the house, then yesterday I adjusted the parking brake and went to the parts store for some diff/transmission vent hoses, since I've got some real wheeling coming up. Was on when I left the store, was gone when I got home. The irony is that I might have even heard it fall off... I had the windows open and thought one of my groceries had caught the wind and jumped out the window, but it hadn't. I should have thought of the stupid flare then, but who'd assume it would just break off the bolts and fly away? (That's what it did - some of the bolts were still in the fender.)

I won't have a chance to look for it in the daytime until Monday morning, and I already looked for it twice today (before work, in the pouring rain, and after work, in the dark), with no luck. I consider it gone for good. There's a limited number of these on the face of the earth, how am I responsible for the loss of TWO of them? May be the missing flare is destined to be my identifying characteristic... Don't challenge me, physics! :p

No matter what I do to keep these suckers on, they always escape! And I check them regularly to make sure they're secure, because I know they'll try to jump off, and yet they still manage to escape.
 






Tore apart the dash at the same time as Hazey's to replace burned out bulbs in the gauge, and messed up the ground wire on the switch for my roof lights, so I've got to fix that again.

Somehow managed to lose the right fender flare AGAIN, stupid thing! I went wheeling 2 days ago (minor) and it hung in there just fine and made it back to the house, then yesterday I adjusted the parking brake and went to the parts store for some diff/transmission vent hoses, since I've got some real wheeling coming up. Was on when I left the store, was gone when I got home. I won't have a chance to look for it in the daytime until Monday morning, and I already looked for it twice today (before work, in the pouring rain, and after work, in the dark), with no luck. I consider it gone for good. There's a limited number of these on the face of the earth, how am responsible for the loss of TWO of them? May be the missing flare is destined to be my identifying characteristic... Don't challenge me, physics! :p

No matter what I do to keep these suckers on, they always escape! And I check them regularly to make sure they're secure, because I know they'll try to jump off, and they still manage to escape.
ever tried flex tape? kidding dont just tape it on. can drill and add some bolts make it look like em bushwackers
 






I'm thinking of some kind of custom brackets should be constructed for this purpose. There's not much space to work inside the flares, and the holes are already drilled to install the flares using the factory hardware (reusing factory hardware is how I lost the first one). I've got one idea of how to hold the next stupid flare on, but it would be nice if I could at least try it with the same flare each time, rather than having to deplete the world's supply of them.

Maybe some kind of spring clip so it would hold tight... problem is the space limitation. No space for tools of any kind inside the flares, so it's about impossible to expect a regular nut/bolt combo to stay put.
 






Welp, got that little stinker out of the way. New nuts, new bolts, new washers, lock washers, lock nuts, (probably want to add some thread locker just to be sure this sucker never escapes, but I'm sure a few layers of dried mud will suffice) AND closed the bottoms of the clip holes... If this thing finds a way to escape AGAIN, I'll stand defeated, and the missing flare will become a part of The Vulture's identity.

Now then, on to the next fun thing: Differential/Transmission/Transfer case vent tubes! I located the front and rear diff vent tubes and their mounting locations, both were rotted off and need to be replaced before any significant trips out (coming soon!). I'll be planning on running extended tubes up high, just need to find some breather caps for 'em. I also need to find where exactly the trans/T-case vent hoses go to, or if they're broken off too, and then everything I do with these on The Vulture has to be replicated on Hazey.

Still need to reprogram the GEM for the 5.13's, been pushing that off for other reasons, but I'll try to get that resolved before my big outing, which will hopefully be sooner rather than later! I miss the ControlTrac Auto feature, there was no easier way to tackle sand!
 






It's always some thing or other on these old trucks. I've got the same OBD-II DLC issue as before, on both The Vulture and Hazey. Last I checked, it stores codes but can't pull them; but for whatever reason(s) the DTC's haven't resurfaced on The Vulture ever since I tore the dash apart to replace the gauge cluster bulbs. Peculiar, since I've had an intermittent lean code on both banks for years, and more recently an EEC leak (seemed to be related to locking gas cap, may be it just had to be "broken in"?) But no codes being stored at the moment, so cool.

But that brings me around to a thought. I still need to reprogram the PCM/GEM (whichever it is? I've also heard of editing the ABS module for tire size differences) to account for the regear. Without some kind of wiring diagrams, it isn't likely that I'll be able to figure out how to wire in a new OBD-II DLC. There's no way to know without spending money, but it could be the GEM that is the problem, rather than the DLC... Methinks.

Unless somebody knows a way to reprogram the PCM/GEM without using the DLC, it looks like I'll be without ControlTrac until I figure out what else can be done.
 






It's always some thing or other on these old trucks. I've got the same OBD-II DLC issue as before, on both The Vulture and Hazey. Last I checked, it stores codes but can't pull them; but for whatever reason(s) the DTC's haven't resurfaced on The Vulture ever since I tore the dash apart to replace the gauge cluster bulbs. Peculiar, since I've had an intermittent lean code on both banks for years, and more recently an EEC leak (seemed to be related to locking gas cap, may be it just had to be "broken in"? But no codes being stored at the moment, so cool.

But that brings me around to a thought. I still need to reprogram the PCM/GEM (whichever it is? I've also heard of editing the ABS module for tire size differences) to account for the regear. Without some kind of wiring diagrams, it isn't likely that I'll be able to figure out how to wire in a new OBD-II DLC. There's no way to know without spending money, but it could be the GEM that is the problem, rather than the DLC... Methinks.

Unless somebody knows a way to reprogram the PCM/GEM without using the DLC, it looks like I'll be without ControlTrac until I figure out what else can be done.
on mine i changed it through the abs module in forscan, think it works? but the change was so small its hard to tell for sure, being a 3 mph at 70 difference iirc. so hard to tell fi its right. i just got the extended license and then it was in service functions iirc
 



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@Fix4Dirt I've heard of the ABS method working, but never got any concrete information relating to the regear. The ABS monitors front and rear wheel speed and then there's a drive shaft speed sensor, as I understand, and it is the discrepancy in ratio from 4.10:1 to 5.125:1 (5.13's are really 5.125) that causes the problem. With the regear + larger tires, the speedometer is perfectly accurate (lower gears make lower vehicle speed, larger tires make higher vehicle speed), according to local police officer's speed radar.

So the issue is that the drive shaft speed sensor no longer matches up with the axle shaft speed sensors. This I know, but how to fix it I don't know, without that DLC.

To clarify, the regear compensated for the larger tires, in terms of speedometer/wheel speed.
 






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