(2nd gen)98 explorer LOWERED and aggressive

I have a lowered 98 explorer awd, (2 inches) What's the most aggressive wheel set up wheel size,width,offset,backspacing? Considering 18s or 19s as this will be for street/drag. I want to get as much width as possible without rubbing front and rear as well. Not running slicks more like nitto 888r or something similar because I want to still corner lol....

 

[97Sandbox]

Ended up ordering 1/2" spacers for '00 Mustang from LMR -- hope they fit!

I also pressed out the studs from my '01 Sport PowerStop rotors to measure them. Knurl diameter is 0.560" and length is about 1.875". I found a 2.5" long set with the same knurl diameter and similar shoulder length. I think they'll work, although they're longer than necessary.

I'm struggling to find extended studs for the rear axles though, which surprises me given the popularity of the 8.8 Explorer axle. From what I've seen, OEM specs are 0.627" knurl diameter 1.969" length and 0.54" shoulder length. There's got to be some 2.5" studs out there -- anyone have a part number? There's more 0.625" knurl diameter options available but I'm not sure if those will be prone to spinning. Also, I can't seem to find any 2.5" long in that size.

 

[Dover75]

I have a lowered 98 explorer awd, (2 inches) What's the most aggressive wheel set up wheel size,width,offset,backspacing? Considering 18s or 19s as this will be for street/drag. I want to get as much width as possible without rubbing front and rear as well. Not running slicks more like nitto 888r or something similar because I want to still corner lol....

Im running 24x10 it rubs on the sway bar just a little I wouldn't go with any thing of the front over 8's

 

[CDW6212R]

Ended up ordering 1/2" spacers for '00 Mustang from LMR -- hope they fit!

I also pressed out the studs from my '01 Sport PowerStop rotors to measure them. Knurl diameter is 0.560" and length is about 1.875". I found a 2.5" long set with the same knurl diameter and similar shoulder length. I think they'll work, although they're longer than necessary.

I'm struggling to find extended studs for the rear axles though, which surprises me given the popularity of the 8.8 Explorer axle. From what I've seen, OEM specs are 0.627" knurl diameter 1.969" length and 0.54" shoulder length. There's got to be some 2.5" studs out there -- anyone have a part number? There's more 0.625" knurl diameter options available but I'm not sure if those will be prone to spinning. Also, I can't seem to find any 2.5" long in that size.

Be extremely careful about choosing wheel spacers, be absolutely sure they fit perfectly. It's especially important that the hub center matches, almost all forces go through the wheel into the hub center, not the wheel studs. Do what you can to make those the best possible.

The 0.625" size will be fine versus the 0.0627", I'm sure there is a range which will work okay. You have to have 1/2" worth of threads to engage the nuts, which is usually about five for typical 1/2"-20 studs. ARP studs would be the best(strongest) if they have them in the needed size, I got mine from Summit I think. They were about an inch too long and I had my machine shop cut and install them.

 

[97Sandbox]

Be extremely careful about choosing wheel spacers, be absolutely sure they fit perfectly. It's especially important that the hub center matches, almost all forces go through the wheel into the hub center, not the wheel studs. Do what you can to make those the best possible.

Completely agree, that's why I ordered the SN95-specific spacers. If the center bore doesn't fit just right, I'll return them and try another source.

The 0.625" size will be fine versus the 0.0627", I'm sure there is a range which will work okay. You have to have 1/2" worth of threads to engage the nuts, which is usually about five for typical 1/2"-20 studs. ARP studs would be the best(strongest) if they have them in the needed size, I got mine from Summit I think. They were about an inch too long and I had my machine shop cut and install them.

Good to know. I'll order the 3" long 0.625" knurl studs and have them turned down. I imagine you have to be careful not to heat them much when machining so as to avoid ruining ARP's heat treatment. I also want to clarify, if the thread pitch is 20 threads per inch, you need 10 full turns to reach 1/2" of thread engagement. Five turns would only yield a quarter inch and would not be enough.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm sorry, I forgot how many turns I had with my spacers on stock studs etc. I thought it was five threads, I measured them in 2007 when I first installed my odd 18" wheels. They have to engage 1/2" worth of threads on the 1/2" stud diameter.

My spacers fit the hub centers perfectly when I got them, they were made specifically for these Fords, not any brand. Mine are made from a strong aluminum material, and the stud holes were a lot tight at first. I had to whittle the five holes just a hair to get them to go on the studs, and tap them on slowly, all four of them. After putting them on and off a few times, they don't hang up on the threads anymore, but still fit snugly.

 

[blakshukvw]

Im running 24x10 it rubs on the sway bar just a little I wouldn't go with any thing of the front over 8's

It’s all about the offset. I run 9” wide fronts with no rubbing. My offset is correct.

 

[97Sandbox]

It’s all about the offset. I run 9” wide fronts with no rubbing. My offset is correct.

What offset do your rims have and what width tire are you running? With 275 tires, I'm pretty sure mine will still touch the swaybar at lock even after I install spacers to reduce the positive offset.

 

[Turdle]

The 1/16" is all you need. Long as you have daylight between tire and control arm, that space will not ever change, unless you break a lower bj. You can also grind a small amount of the control arm.

I just Don't like spacers.

 

[blakshukvw]

What offset do your rims have and what width tire are you running? With 275 tires, I'm pretty sure mine will still touch the swaybar at lock even after I install spacers to reduce the positive offset.

+24 with 255/45’s in front on 9’s. +24 with 275/40 in the rear on 10’s.

 

[97Sandbox]

+24 with 255/45’s in front on 9’s. +24 with 275/40 in the rear on 10’s.

Thanks for clarifying! I can believe that 255s fit well up front on a 17x9+24 rim. I want to be able to rotate my tires though, so I went with 275s on 17x9s all the way around...now I'm paying the price.

With the right spacers, longer studs and a lot more work, I'm fairly confident it'll all come together nicely.

 

[blakshukvw]

Thanks for clarifying! I can believe that 255s fit well up front on a 17x9+24 rim. I want to be able to rotate my tires though, so I went with 275s on 17x9s all the way around...now I'm paying the price.

With the right spacers, longer studs and a lot more work, I'm fairly confident it'll all come together nicely.

View attachment 433804

My X doesn’t have flares and I didn’t want any poke. They fit very well. Could maybe even use a 5-10mm spacer. The 255’s are still a fair amount of tire imo, especially compared to the OEM tire.

 

[97Sandbox]

Figured I should follow up here for those not following my suspension upgrade thread. Almost finished my setup, currently down 2" in the rear and about 2 1/4" in the front. Any lower and I don't think I could have gotten a proper alignment -- I had the camber adjusters at the max and my mechanic said camber was just in spec.

Also ended up with 11mm spacers behind my 17x9ET24 rims with 275/55 tires on them. I want to get the paint cleaned and polished then put my flares back on, but the poke now isn't much.