Offroad Projects

Hello explorer forum! I hate to have started this thread a bit late in the season but I feel like this could help others that may decide to do a OHV - SOHC engine swap. I have already completed my swap and put 1250 miles to this date on ranger and im looking back on all these pics that I cant help but think may be useful to you all. So im rounding up my pictures and soon im going to start a detailed write out of all the modifications made to make this swap work for my daily driven situation. I stayed up all night putting the pics in a pile from all the friends I had sent them to in the past and tomorrow I will start posting on this thread how it all came together. The chassis I started with was a 1990 ford ranger XLT 4x4 4.0 OHV auto...

I got my strong box from behemoth drivetrain. It has worked awesome for me and I have had no problems. 1. Remove these things: Both drive lines Crossmember (be sure to support the transmission) Remove exhaust from the down pipe. 2.Unplug wiring hareness from shift motor if you have 1354 T case if not, pull spedo cable out of the tale shaft for 1350's. Remove bolts holding Tcase to transmission. 3. Drop T-case out 4. Place new doubler case in and mount to tranny. Do not tighten all bolts down yet. Mount old T-case to strong box (I used a 1350 manual shift T-case so I had to extend the shift linkage). 5. On the explorers, there is a removable aluminum plate in the floor that all the shifters come up out of. This is...

What I started with. Untitled by dresselhausfc, on Flickr Then I opened the door and measured 1/2" down from the door sill and marked out a line. Untitled by dresselhausfc, on Flickr Then after a few minutes with a grinder I had this. Untitled by dresselhausfc, on Flickr I used by body work hammer ( 2lb sledge) and rolled that 1/2" lip left back under the opening so getting in and out there would not be a sharp edge to catch on. Next step to start mounting the sliders.

So you picked up a 1st gen Explorer for a screamin' deal of $800 and you can't wait to modify it with a lift kit, bigger tires, and more power. Those are all GREAT ambitions and I'm all for it, but not so fast!! Before you start spending all your cash on go fast goodies, and everything you will need to get those 33" tires under your rig, you better take a good look at your 20 year old investment. Here is a short list of things I can think of checking which should always be done before placing more strain on the rig with larger, heavier tires and wheels, power adders etc. #1 Brakes Hydraulic hoses don't last forever, neither do metal brake lines, ESPECIALLY IN THE RUST BELT. Check your wheel cylinders and caliper seals for leakage...

well, I started my tranny/t-case swap last sunday. its a Ford C4 auto 3-speed out of a 70s model Bronco that I rebuilt myself. I also installed a B&M Transpak Shift kit. The transfer case is a D20 out of the same Bronco and it has Twin Sticks. my buddy TJ came by the house with his tow rig and trailer and we trailer the Sploder to his place. while he went out to eat I stayed behind and started workin on her.... here's a quick breakdown of the progress so far.... Sunday:: Removed both front seats, pulled back the carpet to the back seats, unbolted the factory plate covering where the manual shifter would come up if I had a manual tranny. I then unbolted the d-shafts from both ends and drained the tranny. Also, the transfer case was...

I figure that since I've done this twice (once to regear and once to install a locker) and figured out a faster [than the book] way to do this, that I should share my info. It took me about 1.5 hrs to drop and the same time to reinstall the second time. 1) Jack up passenger side; remove tire; remove center cap on tire; remount tire with two or three lug nuts; set back down and remove axle nut that is now accessible; (Its at 200+ ft/lbs so you need a good long breaker bar) jack up again; remove tire; set jack stand under A arm; remove brake caliper; remove shock; remove ABS wire from clips 2) Unhook front driveshaft 3) Start up engine and carefully turn wheels to the right to near full lock 4) mark alignment...

Tools Needed: Drill, 5/16 drill bit, 17/64 drill bit, File, & Pliers. Parts needed: 1/4" x 1-3/4" Safety Snap Pin 5/16 x 1-1/2" Cotterless clevis pin with a ring. Both parts were found at Home Depot, with a total cost of about $5. Step 1, Remove cotter pin holing handle in. Step 2, Drill a hole using the 17/64 drill bit all the way thru the handle, using the cotter pin hole. Step 3, File any burrs off. Step 4, Test fit Handle, Running gear and 1/4" x 1-3/4" Safety Snap Pin. Step 5, Remove cotter pin holing base on to steel bar. Step 6, Drill out cotter pin hole in base with 5/16 drill bit. Step 7, File any burrs off. Step 8, Test Fit Steel bar, Base, & Cotterless clevis pin with a ring...

Indiglo gauges install process ( warning 22 pictures ) This write up is for the installation of Indiglo gauges purchased from Dead Link Removed into a 1999 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4. Disclaimer: Follow these instructions at your own risk. I will not assume any reasonability for personal injury or vehicle damage cause as a result of these instructions. Sorry guys just had to cover my butt. =) Remove 2 screws from the under radio trim using a 7mm socket. Remove 3 screws from above the gauges using a 7mm socket. Remove 4 screws from under the dash using a 7mm socket. Gently pull on the top of the plastic to remove it. Remove the top 2 screws using a 8mm socket. Gently pull the steel plate down and remove...