Axle Pivot Bushings thread...?

[manousos]

Looking for a write-up thread on how to change axle pivot bushings.

Search has brought up a variety of random threads were things like "drilling" and "torching" are mentioned.

...any help would be appreciated!

 

[Anime]

You mean Radius Arm Bushings?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17190

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146713

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80953

 

[manousos]

nope...but thanks - did those last year

I'm looking for info on how to change these

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110206&highlight=axel+pivot

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107364&highlight=axel+pivot

 

[little x]

Here is a post on sXc That I made that goes over how to change ANY part of the TTB. You will need to pick and choose which steps you need to do (ex/ it goes over replacing u-joints, etc). It's in 2 links, it got separated at some website shift, i dunno.

http://www.southernxplorer.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=33
http://www.southernxplorer.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=37

You'll need to remove the sway bar, shocks, coil spring, radius arm nut, tie rod, disconnect the axle slip yoke, drop the axle, burn out the old bushing, install the new one, put it all back together, then do the same to the driver's side, only you have to disconnect the drive shaft too. Sound easy enough? lol

It's really not that bad. Use plenty of PB Blaster and have a MAP gas torch for tough bolts. You'll probably need a friend to help you put the axle beam back in the truck since you aren't going to completely strip it down. Post up if you run into any problems.

 

[Anime]

Ah okay. Yeah, you might need to do the drill/torch methods if you don't have access to a press. A press is alot of work, and might be even harder to do with the axle on the truck, but it's much simpler and cleaner than burning rubber and banging out the shell.

 

[manousos]

Here is a post on sXc That I made that goes over how to change ANY part of the TTB. You will need to pick and choose which steps you need to do (ex/ it goes over replacing u-joints, etc). It's in 2 links, it got separated at some website shift, i dunno.

http://www.southernxplorer.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=33
http://www.southernxplorer.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=37

You'll need to remove the sway bar, shocks, coil spring, radius arm nut, tie rod, disconnect the axle slip yoke, drop the axle, burn out the old bushing, install the new one, put it all back together, then do the same to the driver's side, only you have to disconnect the drive shaft too. Sound easy enough? lol

It's really not that bad. Use plenty of PB Blaster and have a MAP gas torch for tough bolts. You'll probably need a friend to help you put the axle beam back in the truck since you aren't going to completely strip it down. Post up if you run into any problems.

Thanks for the links! Looks like a pretty committing job

 

[manousos]

So....can this be done without removing the TTBs completely?

 

[manousos]

...bump....?

 

[little x]

You'll have to remove the coil springs. At that point all you have to do to pull the axles out is unhook the tie rod, radius arm nut, axle slip joint, and the drive shaft. So, it may be possible. But then you'd be burning out the bushings lying under your truck, instead of while in a safe area. It's really not that bad, just give yourself some time, and get-r-done. I did mine outside, in the winter, with some snow, last year.

 

[DeRocha]

IMO you have to remove so many parts that that you may as well remove the TTB completely anyway. This way you can safely work on the Axle pivot bushings on a bench. If you have access to a Haynes manual they have an ok description with graphics on how to replace Axle Pivot Bushings (they indicate you must:

Remove the entire front axle assembly. This includes calipers, rotors, spindles, Stub Axles, front drive shaft, Outer tie rods, and sway bar links. They only part not removed is the Radius Arm.. IMO you have to remove so many parts that you may as well remove the TTB completely anyway. This would allow you to work on the beams in a safe and comfortable place instead of hanging down under your vehicle..

After the beams were removed I used an air hammer to Un-flare the metal sleeve of the axle pivot bushing. Once the metal sleeve was unflared I used a "C" clamp ball joint press to press out the bushing. A standard "C" clamp kit may not have the additional receiving cups so you may need to improvise (I used large 2-3" pipe caps from Lowes).

Note: The axle pivot bushing is composed of several pieces. The outer metal sleeve, an inner bushing, and a center metal sleeve through which the axle pivot bolt passes. Once the axle pivot bushing has been installed the metal sleeve (which faces the rear of the vehicle) must be flared to keep it from moving around and backing out of position. This can be done by using the "C" press tool with the appropriate forcing die, or by bending the sleeve with a screwdriver, or by tack welding the sleeve to the axle.

 

[manousos]

Ok then...!

Complete removal it is.

Thanks again

 

[410Fortune]

After the beams were removed I used an air hammer to Un-flare the metal sleeve of the axle pivot bushing. Once the metal sleeve was unflared I used a "C" clamp ball joint press to press out the bushing. A standard "C" clamp kit may not have the additional receiving cups so you may need to improvise (I used large 2-3" pipe caps from Lowes).

Note: The axle pivot bushing is composed of several pieces. The outer metal sleeve, an inner bushing, and a center metal sleeve through which the axle pivot bolt passes. Once the axle pivot bushing has been installed the metal sleeve (which faces the rear of the vehicle) must be flared to keep it from moving around and backing out of position. This can be done by using the "C" press tool with the appropriate forcing die, or by bending the sleeve with a screwdriver, or by tack welding the sleeve to the axle.

Ditto!

I always use an air chissle to knock the old bushings/sleeve out of round so it can be removed from the beam.

Once the new bushings are in place a couple of tack welds will hold it to the beam.

I have done several sets this way, it works perfect.

 

[Tony H]

Here is a post on sXc That I made that goes over how to change ANY part of the TTB. You will need to pick and choose which steps you need to do (ex/ it goes over replacing u-joints, etc). It's in 2 links, it got separated at some website shift, i dunno.

http://www.southernxplorer.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=33
http://www.southernxplorer.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=37

You'll need to remove the sway bar, shocks, coil spring, radius arm nut, tie rod, disconnect the axle slip yoke, drop the axle, burn out the old bushing, install the new one, put it all back together, then do the same to the driver's side, only you have to disconnect the drive shaft too. Sound easy enough? lol


It's really not that bad. Use plenty of PB Blaster and have a MAP gas torch for tough bolts. You'll probably need a friend to help you put the axle beam back in the truck since you aren't going to completely strip it down. Post up if you run into any problems.

NICE WRITE-UP

When taking the Coils out, does the axle flex enough after the Shock is off to get it out without a Spring compressor?

 

[little x]

^^ Thanks,

Yep. I go ahead and loosen the RA bolt first, to give it a little more flex, and then sort of stand on the hub with one foot to push the axle down far enough to get the spring out. I've changed my coils 3 times and never used a spring compressor.

 

[Tony H]

Never had to do Springs on an 'X' just making mental notes for when the day comes.

Thanks

 

[adamsbro2]

Ditto!

I always use an air chissle to knock the old bushings/sleeve out of round so it can be removed from the beam.

Once the new bushings are in place a couple of tack welds will hold it to the beam.

I have done several sets this way, it works perfect.

I gotta say i just replaced the bushing in the passenger side beam yesterday and noticed it was a fairly loose fit, without a good way to flare the sleeve back out i opted for tack welds in a few spots both sides, but thought i was screwing stuff up and must have done something wrong!!! After reading this I feel WAY better and will go ahead and do the same thing to the drivers side beam!!! DAMN I LOVE THIS SITE!!!

 

[Travis29077]

I am a little confused can someone simply this process so i could do it i have the radius arm bushings removed sway bar disconnected schoks undone coil springs removed just having a hell of a time with the pivot arm bushing thanks

 

[Mudman1]

I have mine broken down further and took the I beam out. BUT you are not going any further unless you remove the spindle and axle shaft. You did a lot of work to still keep the beam under the frame, but not enough to work on it outside the vehicle.

 

[410Fortune]

After the beams were removed I used an air hammer to Un-flare the metal sleeve of the axle pivot bushing

AIR CHISSEL will make short work of those pivot bushings, you use the air chissel and work around the metal sleeve, it takes about 32 seconds and they will pop right out

 

[Travis29077]

So i have dropped the axle and gotten the old pivot arm bushings out howere the new ones wont go in all the way is that normal or do i need to use sonething to finish the job thanks again