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How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

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Replacement 510 resistor

Daffy,
If there were two 510 resistors side by side, then the heat must have melted the solder on both ends of one of them allowing the resistor to fall off the circut board. If that is the case, I probably lost it when removing the board from the console. Does that make any sense?
 






Does it look like something was soldered there? if it got hot, or cracked, you'd see evidence that it was there. If the pads are there, and fresh looking, there was never a part there (different production run, different parts added/removed?)

Can you post a picture of your board?
 






Thanks for the input, Daffy. No need for a photo. I used a magnifying glass and rubbed my finger over the pad and, yes, there definately was something soldered there before. I was "hands and knees" with a spotlight in all the areas I thought the missing resistor could have fallen out but, no luck. Those little suckers are not that easy to find on gravel or deep pile carpeting and I'm still having a problem locating a single replacement 510 resistor locally. I still have a couple of other sources to check in the area so we'll see what happens.

Incidentally, thanks for the link to Jamco but if I ordered from there, I don't know what I'd do with the other 4999 resistors.
 






It worked!

Although I couldn't find a replacement 510 resistor that was the same type as the origional (I believe that one is "film"?), I was able to use a 510 ceramic instead. I knew I would not be able to solder it myself...and have it come out right, that is...so I had a friend do it for me. The ceramic resistors have wire on both ends so the difficult part was trying to hold it in place while applying the solder. He finally was able to get it, and it works just fine so far. Another difficult part was reassembly and figuring out how the connector to the circut board fits when reinstalling the map lights.

Anyway, thanks much to Thallarsen and Daffy whose knowledge and input made this success possible.
 






I wonder if you could do a micro heatsink mod to prevent this from happening again... :)

Probably overdoing it a little though
 






tmclaugh,
Sorry I can't help you there. I'm not that oriented toward electronics repair. Since this thread is getting a little "age" on it, you might consider starting a new one to attract someone who "knows what he's doing" in the electronics field.

Good luck.
 






I wonder if you could do a micro heatsink mod to prevent this from happening again... :)

Probably overdoing it a little though

I replaced those two resistors with 68 ohms 1/4 watt resistors from Radio Shack. This allows lower power consumption and are easier to solder.
 






The board is exact or similar in a 2000 Ford F150.

The soldering problem is also a common problem in that vehicle.

A hairline crack was barely visible in the solder on one of the ends. Gently lifting the resistor with the end of a pin showed the solder job was definately broke. The other three were good.

I had my Dad resolder the ends. He did all four ends, to hopefully avoid problems in the future. He used a 30 watt soldering iron and silver solder. Solder one end, then cool by blowing on it, then dabbing area with a damp tissue for additional cooling.

Great job posting pics Thallarsen :thumbsup:
 






Thallarsen, Thank You for the great insight. I just fixed my 99 explorer XLT 5.0 ,console with your super instructions. I had 2- 510's. At one point my chip came off and I put it back on. I had the soldering pretty heavy so I don't think Ill need to fix it again. Some of the Torx screws were hidden behind the foam padding but I figured it out. Saved me $ in the hard economic times of today. Now I have to fix my door lock and the lights on my panel of the speedometer. Nice name by the way my last name is Larsen too!
 






Glad to be of help!
 






works!

Thanks for the how to, I bought my 99 ex used and the display never worked, i just figured it was a bad fuse or something else, but after checking everything, i came here. Now it works perfect. My soldering is crap cuz im pretty shaky, but its all good, thanks!
 






I have a 95 XLT and as far as I can tell we have two different circuit boards. I pulled it apart and found a big difference between the board you pictured an the one I have. However mine takes a few minutes to turn on after I start the car. Any ideas on how to fix it or maybe someone else with a similar problem?

I just pulled my '95 XLT apart tonight and had a different circuit board as well. Probably 50 parts on it. I reflowed as many as I could reach and will put it back in tomorrow. Mine was only an intermittent failure.

The trick here is to look for a part that is loose on one end. Not always an easy thing to find. I didn't see anything in particular bad, so just reflowed as much as I could. You won't hurt anything doing this as long as you:

- don't leave the solder iron on any part too long -- you can cook them. I needed about 2-3 sec to reflow each contact.
- don't create any solder bridges. Inspect your work and make sure you didn't add any connections. The relatively large components here make it easy to work with. More modern electronics are nearly impossible. I used a 5x magnifying glass from Walmart.
- don't suck all the solder out of a joint, or you will create the same problem. This can usually be prevented by keeping a small amount of solder on the iron tip.
 






I just pulled my '95 XLT apart tonight and had a different circuit board as well. Probably 50 parts on it. I reflowed as many as I could reach and will put it back in tomorrow. Mine was only an intermittent failure.

The trick here is to look for a part that is loose on one end. Not always an easy thing to find. I didn't see anything in particular bad, so just reflowed as much as I could. You won't hurt anything doing this as long as you:

- don't leave the solder iron on any part too long -- you can cook them. I needed about 2-3 sec to reflow each contact.
- don't create any solder bridges. Inspect your work and make sure you didn't add any connections. The relatively large components here make it easy to work with. More modern electronics are nearly impossible. I used a 5x magnifying glass from Walmart.
- don't suck all the solder out of a joint, or you will create the same problem. This can usually be prevented by keeping a small amount of solder on the iron tip.

Well I'm going to pull it back out and give it a try. Since my last post it has quit working all together. So I got nothing to lose from trying. 4 What ford wants for a replacement I could go get a Garmin GPS or 2. Thanks for the help.:thumbsup:
 






my overhead console works but the temp reading is very wrong (ex: reads 127 degrees F when only 30 some degrees F) is it that 501 resistor your talking about or something else?
 






my overhead console works but the temp reading is very wrong (ex: reads 127 degrees F when only 30 some degrees F) is it that 501 resistor your talking about or something else?
That is probably a bad temp sensor that is located near your radiator.
 






is that the ECT sensor? cuz i just bought one of those
 






is that the ECT sensor? cuz i just bought one of those

Nope, its a very special sensor. You have to ask your local ford dealer or online dealer. If you have electronic climate control there is anther sensor near it, but they are not the same.
 






I just want to say thank you for the help with the overhead console. The pics made it easy even for me to get to the problem and get it soldered. You have done an awesome thing with adding the photos, easy to follow "Even a Girl can do it" LOL
 



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Thanks to Thallarsen, we have another winner!

I repaired the compass in my 2001 Explorer Limited. I soldered both sides of the 510 resistors, works perfect!

Thanks for posting this great thread.
 






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