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Tranny flush question.....




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Could you pump the fluid out in larger increments? maybe 2-4 quarts at a time, to reduce the number of times the engine has to be started and stopped?
 












True. I forget how big of an effect being a couple of quarts low can have. The transmission will barely engage. I just hate starting and stopping the engine so much.
 






This is why the shops use a special machine to pump the fluid through it. Another option is to fill up a large container with fluid, and let it draw fluid out of it. You could use a second large container to catch the old fluid after it passes through everything.
 






Could you pump the fluid out in larger increments? maybe 2-4 quarts at a time, to reduce the number of times the engine has to be started and stopped?

I have actually done the entire flush with the motor running by adding 1 quart as 1 quart exits.
 






Originally Posted by kevinspann
Could you pump the fluid out in larger increments? maybe 2-4 quarts at a time, to reduce the number of times the engine has to be started and stopped?

I have actually done the entire flush with the motor running by adding 1 quart as 1 quart exits.

What about clamping on a restrictor to the outlet hose, to
slow the flow of the old ATF? This would possibly give a more
'leisurely' fluid exchange, with the engine idleing.
Would this work?
 






I have actually done the entire flush with the motor running by adding 1 quart as 1 quart exits.

Having done my flush this is correct, provided you have a large enough container. I had a gallon jug, so i was about to pump out 3 quarts at a time, while adding, as they exited.

My only issue was which line was which. On my 1997, if you're looking at the transmission cooler from the front of the vehicle, you will want to remove the left side rubber line from the cooler. Then plug that line to prevent fluid from coming out as you run the vehicle. Connect a 3/8" ID hose to the cooler, and to a container.


I got a flashing O/D off light after I completed my change. However, the transmission shifted into each gear properly, as it did before the change. I may have run the fluid a little low at the beginning of my flush, when I made a mess by having the wrong line connected. I disconnected the battery to clear the code, hopefully it does not come back. There has been no other time that the code has popped up, so I expect no issues.
 






So I am going to do this "homestyle tranny flush" and I have a couple of questions...
1) I am also going to do a pan drop and filter change, should I do this first, or second? If I do it first, will I lose the few quarts of fresh tranny fluid I have just replaced in the pan, or will this be the last to come out? If I do it second I will definitly lose what is in the pan. I am not super cheap, and don't mind losing a few quarts, I am more uptight about having it done well. Are there pro's and cons to either?
2) I am contemplating using Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and they list a couple of options. Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is listed as "Also Suitable" for Mercon V, while Mobil Multi Vehicle ATF is "Formally Approved" for Mercon V. I have not found the Multi Vehicle locally, but I have not tried Napa yet either. Has anybody tried either? Recomendations on either?

It's an '01 EB 5.0 (4R70W) with 128k on the clock. I had fluid and filter changed at 35k-40k back in Virginia Beach at the stealership and again at 75k here in Clarksville. At 80k I got a vibration like hitting rumble strips while the transmission upshifted. The stealership told me I only needed to have the fluid in the torque converter changed as well. That worked great and I've been happy motoring since...well almost. I was just prepping myself to do it again, and turns out the local Ford geniuses have broken their Transmission fluid transfer machine and are not going to replace it. Fluid and filter in the pan only. And now my truck is starting to shudder a little bit when shifting into OD. It is fine around town if I shut the OD off and ease up on the throttle at 65+/- and turn the OD back on when on the highway. The only time there is a problem is if I forget to shut the OD off when I restsrt and let it shift into OD at a low speed, about 45. I think a complete flush and new filter should buy me another 40k or so...
Comments, opinions, actual facts or even derogatory remarks are all welcome...
 






So I am going to do this "homestyle tranny flush" and I have a couple of questions...
1) I am also going to do a pan drop and filter change, should I do this first, or second? If I do it first, will I lose the few quarts of fresh tranny fluid I have just replaced in the pan, or will this be the last to come out? If I do it second I will definitly lose what is in the pan. I am not super cheap, and don't mind losing a few quarts, I am more uptight about having it done well. Are there pro's and cons to either?

Because you must drop the pan to change the filter, I think it make more sense to do the filter first. Also, it reduces the amount that you must do "one quart out, one quart in" because you will be adding about 5 qts of new fluid just to fill the pan.

I don't remember if the 4R70W has a torque converter drain, but if it does, I would drain that too, because then you will have even less old fluid in trans that you have to replace during the "flush". You are going to get some mixing of old and new fluid no matter what, so the more old fluid you get out, the less dilution of the new fluid that you put in.
 






Does anyone have recommendations on gaskets for the tranny pan? I'd heard that some of the aftermarket ones were prone to leakage and that it may be best to suck it up and pay for Ford's overpriced gaskets. Are there particular materials to watch out for?
 












This is a common practice. I've done it countless times on various makes and models. Some cars, like Honda, don't even have a pan. But on the Ford, order an aftermarket Mag Hytec pan & filter. Increased capacity, cooling fins, built in gasket, and a magnetic drain plug. Some cars are better off with OEM spec fluid (Honda ATF-Z1), and some are better off with aftermarket synthetics. In my Fords, I've successfully ran Lucas Oil, Red Line, and Royal Purple. Ford has issued a TSB that all prior models that were spec'ed for Mercon should use Mercon V. At my local Ford dealership, Mercon V is $4 a quart, compared to $15+ for brand name synthetics. Try to avoid Wally World's multi-grade ATF. Your vehicle should have a transmission fluid capacity of 14.5 quarts (17.5 w/ Mag Hytec upgrade). It is a good idea to have 2 cases of fluid on hand. I have seen up to 20 quarts used before clean fluid came out.

Drop pan, remove filter, then replace with Mag Hytec upgrade.

Fill from dipstick tube with new capacity (up to 8 quarts) of ATF.

Disconnect line to cooler and run into a 5 gallon bucket.

Turn on engine.

Pour ATF into dipstick tube until fluid coming out to bucket is clear.

Turn off engine.

Reconnect transmission cooler line.

Turn on engine.

With vehicle in "PARK", check dipstick, top off to fill line if necessary.

On my vehicles, I perform this procedure to replace the OEM fill with Royal Purple at 10,000 miles. Then I drain the pan & clean the magnetic drain plug every 10,000 miles. Overkill? Perhaps. But there's no such thing as being only a little pregnant. You can decide on your own intervals to suit your driving habits.
 






Thanks, I have contemplated a TCI pan with the cooling fins as well but I don't believe there was any additional capacity. I don't do any serious rock climbing that I am concerned about ground clearance in that respect, but how much deeper is the Mag-Hytech pan?
 






I think it depends on your pan. But it should not be more than 2 inches. Mag Hytec's website should have specs. Then just measure your own pan & compare. Or better yet, just call them and ask. They're pretty good about answering questions.
 






Wow, did my first flush of an auto tranny using this thread's methods. I drained out the metal line where it meets under the radiator. Having no idea how fast the fluid would pump out I showed my 13yr old daughter how to start and stop the Ex while I watched. After a few quarts of seeing how slowly it comes I released her back to her TV duties and was able to do the rest myself.

A few notes. I used a one gallon clear jug, didn't bother to mark at quart intervals because you can estimate 1/4, 1/2, etc. (not like you can't be off a pint or so), and had plenty of time to run from the filling jar to the cab to shut off and throw in the next quart. Basically you're evened up after every gallon; after having pulled the gallon you better have put four quarts back in. Also, during some of the filling I ran the tranny selector the all the choices, thinking that may help circulate the various nooks and crannies - figured it can't hurt.

Another idea if you're putting in expensive fluid like I was, like Amsoil. I bought six quarts of relatively cheap Mercon V compatible and used that for the first six replacements. This is because the way the old and new fluids will intermingle you'll wind up losing a lot of the early fill, so lose cheaper stuff. Then I worked in ten quarts of Amsoil and some Lucas.

Now I've got to figure out how to mount the Summit filter without taking the car apart. I don't like the fender area like many have done, so I think I'll try to mount it to the backside of the bumper, the gray metal strip with creases you see if you look up from the bottom toward the license plate area.
 






Grrr. Less than 12 hours after flushing my tranny, after deciding not to do a pan drop, I stumble on a thread that talks about Fram Microfelt tranny filters. I decided against a pan drop in part because I thought all the pan filters were the screen variety and therefore not any good for fine filtering. Oh well, since I'm doing the external filter kit will have the fine particulate filtering, and more easy to change in the future. I don't feel like dropping the pan at this point and dumping over four quarts of brand new Amsoil.

I also found it is real easy to take the bumper off, and that others have mounted the Summit where I want to, behind the front grill. I'm much more comfortable with that then the wheel well location some have used.
 






Just a thought to avoid all the starting and stopping and keeping the fluids even. Use a cheap garden sprayer for the new ATF and remove the spray tip. With the sprayer pumped up and the wand inserted into the fill tube, just pull the trigger to add fluid. Mark the sprayer bottle at quart increments as well as the receiving bucket and keep the levels matched as you are adding fluid. Pump up the sprayer as needed.
 






While I don't think it really makes a whole lot of difference I think if you dumped and refilled rather than continuously pump in as you drain you probably lose a little less new fluid in the process. I think it would depend a lot on the path the fluid takes from the input to the output, something others here would be much better able to address. In any event that gets back to why I recommended cheaper fluid for the early refills.
 



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I think you may have misunderstood what I suggested sarahsdaddy. You would not pump fluid into the fill tube under any kind of pressure. You would simply be adding fluid via the wand on the end of the sprayer hose instead of through a funnel. And you could do it at the same rate as you expelled fluid while not having to stop and fumble around opening bottles in the process. An easy, constant, controllable supply of fluid.
 






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