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How to: How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings

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excellent, sounds like a pretty straightforward procedure. Shop quoted me $225CAD for parts & labor. Looks like I'll be tackling this one!

Thanks for the write-up - I too found this link slightly discouraging
 



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if it's 4 wheel drive, it's going to be a whole hub/bearing assembly. I'm not sure about 2wd.

remove tire, remove caliper, caliper mounting bracket, and rotor.

Then there are 3 (9/16"?) bolts to remove.

may take a bit of grunt without removing the half-shafts, but removing half-shafts is not a necessity. Every time I've replaced mine, I did not remove the half-shafts.

SP450200-A.jpg
 






have 1997 ford explorer awd. previous owner removed front drive shaft. right cv joint went out. just want to remove half-shaft. removed wheel, brakes, brake assembly, rotor, then stuck like chuck. Any advice?
 






have 1997 ford explorer awd. previous owner removed front drive shaft. right cv joint went out. just want to remove half-shaft. removed wheel, brakes, brake assembly, rotor, then stuck like chuck. Any advice?

you CANNOT, I repeat CANNOT drive around without a half-shaft!

the hub-nut and CV hold the bearing together.

driving without the shaft in can have VERY dire consequences (ie, bearing falling apart)

at the very least; take the whole shaft apart, and place the outer part through the hub and tighten down the hub nut.


disconnect the knuckle from the upper control arm, and you should get enough movement to push the stub through the bearing and knuckle.
 






I'll do it but if I don't have an axle, do I need a bearing? Don't mean to be dense, but I'm lucky to get in a tire without messing something up and this is a first for me. I'm NOT mechanically competent. Thanks for the help & I'll take your advice.
 






I'll do it but if I don't have an axle, do I need a bearing? Don't mean to be dense, but I'm lucky to get in a tire without messing something up and this is a first for me. I'm NOT mechanically competent. Thanks for the help & I'll take your advice.

Yeah you must have the bearing without a bearing there the tire would be trying to turn the whole truck over:roll:. If that bearing came apart, which it probably will before you can even get out of the drive way that entire side of the suspension would collapse and it would cost you several times the cost of a new cv axle to fix it.
 






I'll do it but if I don't have an axle, do I need a bearing? Don't mean to be dense, but I'm lucky to get in a tire without messing something up and this is a first for me. I'm NOT mechanically competent. Thanks for the help & I'll take your advice.

the tire mounts to the hub/bearing assy... soooo.... yes.
 






Yeah, I'm trying to get half-shaft out, remove stub for the wheel from the shaft, and re-assemble but I'm having problems getting it off. going nuts, missed 4 days work, job on line.
 






Help! Can't get axle out!

Atleast for the Ford 31-spline 8.8 with 3.73 and limited slip. Per Chiltons, gearing higher than 3.73 (numerically lower) is different?

What inspired me to make this write-up? Easy. I couldn't find any. Well, I found one (http://www.explorer4x4.com/axleseals.html), and it honestly almost turned me away from doing this job myself, but decided to do it anyway. And so I decided to make one with pictures.

Tools needed:

1) wheel chocks
2) jack stand
3) floor jack
4) 3/8" ratchet
5) 1/2" socket (diff cover)
6) 10mm socket (brake calipers)
7) 3/4" socket (wheel lug nuts)
8) 9mm wrench (pinion shaft bolt)
9) slide hammer
a) wheel bearing removal tool
10) small'ish sledge
11) small needle nose pliers
12) small chunk of 2x4
13) rags
14) drain pan
15) about 2.75 quarts gear lube
16) replacement bearings and seals

Of course, the first step is to get the rear off the ground, atleast long enough to get the tires off. I did it this way, so that there would be as much room between axle and body as possible to work in there.
I sat jack stands under the front leaf spring mounts, just high enough that the tires were off the ground. Of course I tested for stability before starting any work, and also chocked the front tires.

My poor rear axle that hasn't gotten any love (and gotta love that spare tire is the original Firestone).

P1000467.jpg


Next step is to remove the diff cover. These bolts have 1/2" heads (atleast mine did). Make sure you can remove your filler plug before doing this or you'll be screwed!

P1000468.jpg


After removing the bolts to the diff cover, I just used a little grunt to get the seal broken apart just enough to get the oil to drain. If you can't get it with grunt, you can use a screwdriver or chisel but be careful not to damage the mounting surfaces.

P1000469.jpg


While the gear lube is draining, take a chance to go ahead and remove all your brake hardware so you can remove the axle shafts. The caliper bolts take a 10mm socket.

This is what the inside of the diff cover looked like. Nothing abnormal, really. No little flakes or feel of grit in the oil is always good!

P1000470.jpg


Here's a slightly fun part; you need to remove this bolt (9mm head, atleast in my case), then slide the pin out so that you can access the c-clips. Do not turn the axles after removing this, or you could spend a lot of time trying to get it back in! If you spin the axles, it will get the spider gears out of place, and could be a real pain to re-align.

P1000476.jpg


What you need to do now, is for the side you're working on, push the axle shaft in until you can get access to the c-clip.
I've already removed the driver's side in this pic.

P1000477.jpg


Now it's easy as pie to slide the shaft out. You will get some more gear lube leakage out of the axle tube.
This is how my axle looks, where it rides on the bearing.

P1000478.jpg


Getting the seal out is, honestly, the hardest part of this job. I tried prying with a screw driver, trying to get the bearing and seal with the slide-hammer, with no luck.
What finally worked for me? Vise-grips. Get a good grip on the seal, and just try and work it back and forth. As you can see in this pic, I took out several chunks of the seal.

P1000483.jpg


Now to get the bearing itself, I would highly recommend the use of a slide-hammer. Don't have one? Rent one. I ended up havin to rent it from Schmucks, because the locally-owned shop I would have was closed already. It's only $6/day, that's more than worth it for this! Although, this particular one I wasn't too fond of. No rubber grip or cushion on the handle, and honestly would have probably been easier with one that was a bit longer. But it got the job done.

P1000482.jpg

(yes, this picture was before I got the seal out)
Now you've got that done, it's time to put the new bearing and seal on! What I did for this, was get the new bearing in as far as I could by hand. I then took the old bearing and a chunk of 2x4. Basically sandwich the old bearing between the new bearing and 2x4 (I recommend covering the wood with a rag, to prevent any splinters from getting into the bearing/axle tube). It hammered in quite easily.
For the seal; it fits inside the axle tube also. I pressed it as far as I could by hand, then took the 2x4 and hammer again, and whacked it in.

I then took some gear lube, and tried to work it into my bearings, to help prevent any dry-running.

Slide the axle shaft back in, replace c-clip, and we're done with that side!

P1000484.jpg


Of course the other side is just as easy. Actually, it was easier knowing exactly how to get things to work.

Don't forget to put that pin back in, along with the bolt. Then, of course, clean the mounting surfaces of the diff cover and diff, then put some silicone on the diff cover. Not a lot is required. Just about a 1/4" to 3/8" bead should be plenty.
When bolting the cover back up, make sure and tighten down in a star-pattern (just like you do when tighting lug nuts).
While you're waiting for the silicone to cure a bit, go ahead and put your brakes back on.

Now go ahead and fill 'er up with gear lube (you can get your filler plug loose, right?) and you're all set!
I removed the nut, cylinder, and keeper. Should slide out. Comes out till the threads on end of shaft go into axle housing and stops there. Axle is damaged as I've just recently replaced axle bearing (left side) and it rattles up and down and leaks like a sieve. trying to remove axle for replacement and can't get it out! Any help would be appreciated. I deliver for a living and job is at stake
 






Gavin - Can't get axle out of left rear. Tried axle puller and won't fit. don't want to break lug bolts. replaced axle bearing and seal 3 weeks ago and axle came out fine. Axle was ground a bit but I put the bearing and seal in and it held for a couple of days. I didn't know at the time that the previous owner used a axle saver bearing to reposition the bearing on the axle. Started leaking around seal so need try axle saver (I have one) or replace axle, both of which require removal of axle and IT WON'T COME OFF
 






Hey Gavin. I've noticed that you have your parking brake completely removed. Did you ever replace any of that?
 






Gavin - Can't get axle out of left rear. Tried axle puller and won't fit. don't want to break lug bolts. replaced axle bearing and seal 3 weeks ago and axle came out fine. Axle was ground a bit but I put the bearing and seal in and it held for a couple of days. I didn't know at the time that the previous owner used a axle saver bearing to reposition the bearing on the axle. Started leaking around seal so need try axle saver (I have one) or replace axle, both of which require removal of axle and IT WON'T COME OFF

you didn't forget the c-clip, right? haha. Honestly... nothing else I can think of that would prevent the axle shaft from coming out.

Hey Gavin. I've noticed that you have your parking brake completely removed. Did you ever replace any of that?

not yet. I have the parts (and have had them for a couple years), but have yet to replace it. I plan on doing it shortly, as atleast 1 bearing needs replaced (again), thanks to an out of round 33" tire
 






Round out tire??? I hope I don't break this bolt man... just my luck.. it'll happen...
 






Round out tire??? I hope I don't break this bolt man... just my luck.. it'll happen...

bought new rims... a rim was out of round. Got it replaced. Finally figured out atleast 1 tire (brand new also) was out of round.
which is what kept destroying my front hub assy's (replaced multiple times in a couple years) and LBJ's (also replaced multiple times). I believe it also destroyed my rear axle bearings.

just take it VERY easy on the bolt. I was afraid of the same thing. If anything, just slightly tap on the wrench with a hammer until it comes loose. Do not just start using excessive force, and you should be fine.
 






I've seen mini torches at like walmart, would that be worth getting and using for this bolt? Plus of course PB blaster.
 






you most definitely should NOT need PB Blaster. This bolt has been soaked in gear lube almost all it's life.

I personally would not want to heat the carrier, but that's just me. Although it would help at loosening up the locktite on what few threads the bolt has.

I cannot say wether or not it would be safe to do so.
 






Ah, well just wondering your opinion.. I've read that others have heated it up. All in all, this job seems like cake.. other than that bolt breaking..
 






it very well could be safe. I'm just not knowledgable in that area.

If others have done it without issue, then go for it.

but the pb blaster or any kind of rust-treatment really is unnecessary. Unless the axle got drained, then sat for a few years, there should be virtually no rust what-so-ever, except maybe very slight amounts in the tubes, but definitely not in the pumpkin or on the carrier.
 






Could you explain further about the not turning the axle shafts while the cross pin and bolt are out?... that thing inside the diff.. the carrier.. does that spin while in normal operation or does it stay stationary because of the pin?... I don't quite understand how a differential works completely... what is the issue with the shafts turning?..
 



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Could you explain further about the not turning the axle shafts while the cross pin and bolt are out?... that thing inside the diff.. the carrier.. does that spin while in normal operation or does it stay stationary because of the pin?... I don't quite understand how a differential works completely... what is the issue with the shafts turning?..

if you remove the crosspin, the spider gears are free to fall out.
but you won't have any worries if you do not spin the axle shafts.

If you do, it could cause the spider gears to fall out. And I'm sure it wouldn't be all that easy trying to put those back in.

the carrier is what holds the spider gears, clutch packs for a limited slip (if applicable), and is what the ring gear bolts to. So yes, the carrier spins.
 






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