correct parts #'s 4.0sohc guides & tensioners with pics...

[CDW6212R]

does the enging have to be removed to do the repair

No except for the rear cassette, which is between the engine and transmission.

 

[Xlt99explorer]

Could you just drop the tranny.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pulling the transmission to replace rear cassette

At least one member has done it that way:
Anyone who wants\has replaced the RH Cassette UPDATED PICS!

 

[CDW6212R]

The work at the back of the engine is one thing, it is very tight back there with the engine in. The large aluminum oil pan is unique and not simple to bolt on, it also bolts to the trans horizontally. The "manuals" make that sound like a huge issue, but I don't think it's that bad.

 

[BK_89iX]

washer on rear tensioner?

Does the rear hydraulic tensioner, 7U3Z-6K254-A, require a crush washer like the front unit?

My parts guy says one is not shown in the diagram, and one is not included with the rear tensioner part (he physically checked it from inventory).

I ordered an extra crush washer for the front anyway, after reading here that the separate part is somehow better than the one in the kit. $4 part XU2Z-6M252-AA.

During a recent coolant flush and associated idling with the hood up, I started to notice a faint chain noise from the rear. I'm going to replace both hydraulic tensioners as PM. Truck has 93k miles on it, with ~70k on the front tensioner since it's original 00M12 a bunch of years ago.

BK

 

[CDW6212R]

Mine both came with crush washers I believe.

 

[BK_89iX]

Got my parts today. The extra crush washer that I purchased for the rear tensioner looks identical to the one in the 00M12 kit for the front. VERY thin aluminum with what looks like a black coating. Not your average crush washer.

Does the rear tensioner operate on both spring tension and hydraulics? It seems to have an oil hole near the top, just like the front one. If so, would it be wise to pre-fill and work the tensioner prior to installation? It seems recently I've read more than one account of severe chain guide issues on first startup after replacing the exterior tensioners. Definitely want to avoid that!!!

BK

 

[Rudy602]

aftermarket vs ford timing parts?

I've got a '97 SOHC that never got the 00M12 or the 01M01, This is the first I've heard of it. I contacted Ford to say WTF? They said don't worry we'll fix it - yeah, right. They found me for the speed control sensor that leaked brake fluid from the end of the master cylinder but that's a safety recall that doesn't expire. Trouble is I had it fixed years ago and if I want to spend days going through old paperwork, they might refund the $. I do have all the classic problems with the won't idle when cold and the chain rattle so it looks like I have my work cut out for me. I'm glad to spend 20 to upgrade my membership, lots of info here. Given my reluctance to reward ford any more than necessary for the situation I'm in, any thoughts on aftermarket parts? We stopped going to the dealership after they treated us like we were stupid when we originally questioned the problems. ( Bought a 95 OHV and 97 SOHC new ) Done my own work since then. Not computer savvy but remember how to type from the old days. Are ford parts better? The OHV is slower but better on gas and no engine problems at 175,000. The SOHC has 90,000 I'm thinking of changing everything while I'm in there. The aftermarket kit doesn't have the oil restrictor for the front. Any suggestions besides keeping the posts shorter? I figured I'd wait for the tranny to go before doing the rear chain but should I do the rear tensioner? thanks for being here!

 

[Rudy602]

Parts Geek 4 chain set by Cloyes is $371.00 +/- anygood?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Cloyes' guide assemblies

Parts Geek 4 chain set by Cloyes is $371.00 +/- anygood?

According to correspondence I've received from a Cloyes engineer their kits include guide assemblies from the same manufacturer that provides them to Ford.

The advantage of buying from Ford is you don't have to buy the complete kit if you don't need it. Some members only have a bad primary tensioner. You can buy from Tousley online.

 

[Rudy602]

With almost 100,000 miles, should I change them anyway? What's the factory say? I can probably look that up somewhere. My problem is the downtime of having it torn apart and having to wait for parts. I may regret it later but I need to pull the intake to change the gaskets and if I'm in there I might as well be thorough and not have to revisit any time soon. No shortage of things to do.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Ford repair process

I have never read a Ford recommended mileage for replacing the timing chains or guides. There are many members with more than 200,000 miles on the odometer and not experiencing chain rattle.

I believe the Ford timing chain related repair process is as follows:

1. Replace hydraulic tensioner(s)
2. Install primary timing (crankshaft to jackshaft) kit
3. Replace left/front timing cassette
4. Replace right/rear timing cassette

 

[Rudy602]

How much more time is involved to replace the chains in the front vs just doing the tensioner? I would really like to get out of it as easy as possible but I really really don't wanna go in again. I guess the tensioners take up the slack in an old chain. I just hope I don't have too many broken pieces in there. - Any idea if the intake manifold gaskets could be responsible for a misfire code? I need to do them anyway, just trying to solve as many problems as possible while I have it apart.

 

[Rudy602]

I think I have my terminology confused, the tensioner will only tension the chain if the plastic guides are still in good shape. Is there any way of ascertaining the condition of the guides without going in? A new tensioner on a bad guide is still trouble, right?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Determining if guides are failed

I think I have my terminology confused, the tensioner will only tension the chain if the plastic guides are still in good shape. Is there any way of ascertaining the condition of the guides without going in? A new tensioner on a bad guide is still trouble, right?

You are correct that replacing a hydraulic tensioner will not help if it's associated guide assembly is broken.

The only way I know to determine with certainty the condition of the guides is by visual and physical inspection. You could remove the right/rear hydraulic tensioner and feel for the guide but it usually fails on the traction side instead of the tensioner (slack) side. To remove the left/front hydraulic tensioner you have to remove the upper intake manifold. When you do that you might as well remove the valve cover and inspect.

I suggest that you purchase the 00M12 kit and install it. That's the cheapest way to purchase the front hydraulic tensioner. While you have the upper intake manifold off remove the left valve cover and inspect the left/front guide assembly.

 

[Rudy602]

You're right, thanks, with that kind of noise, I want to be sure. Any thoughts on the manifold gaskets solving my misfire code? It does almost backfire when it's trying to run when cold.

 

[CDW6212R]

If you have a serious miss or constant lean codes, that may very well be the gaskets. But those are only about $8 a set, and not that hard to change. I'd suggest buying the 00M12 kit which includes those gaskets, and the intake has to come off to do the tensioner anyway.

 

[Rudy602]

Yeah, it has both the lean and misfire codes, I figured the lean would go away but I wasn't sure about the misfire. The only time there's anything like a misfire is at cold start. I won't mind seeing that check engine light go out. Thanks.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Misfire at cold start

A misfire at cold start when the oil pressure is low increases the chance of the timing chains slipping.

 

[Rudy602]

OK, I'm ordering the 00M12 and hoping for good news when I check out the guides. It has some other less serious issues that I'll explore in the mean time, many thanks.