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Something shatterred my valve cover

I just read a comment by an SOHC engine remanufacturer that the engine is prone to valve train oil starvation. They replace the stock oil pump with a high volume unit for their rebuilds. I will probably do the same.

More good info...thanks for the tip!
EDIT: I think this is the reason 5W20-30 is recommended.
 



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I would research that thoroughly, the starvation part. A high volume oil pump is usually a bad idea for a stock pan and rpm use. If the starvation issue is due to restrictions that can be prevented, I'd concentrate on that. Dirty oil or debris from old oil or "sludge" is preventable, and that's what I'd think caused what you read about. Dig into that deeper before going to a high volume pump.
 






Update

OK, I got the cam follower back in place. Being unable to acquire a suitable spring compressor, I used a carpenter's pencil & a flat screwdriver, and pushed the follower under the cam lobe.
9348.jpg

I found that when you place the follower on the valve stem, under the cam lobe, the opposite end will just engage the lash adjuster "nipple". Using the pencil as a shim, I pried against the head, and it rolled right into place. I then lubricated the cam & other moving parts, and gave it a few cranks with the battery, just to be sure the cam follower didn't just pop right back out, before I closed everything up. So far, so good...should have the engine running as soon as the rain stops.

As a side note, I made a simple modification to the AC/ blower assembly lower mounting stud. As shown in the photo below, the clearance between the lower stud and the head is less than 3/16".
9355.jpg

This was a substantial problem during dis-assembly, trying to force a 1/2" plastic mounting ear through that tight space. So to ease re-assembly, I trimmed about 3/8" off of the stud, as shown below.
9357.jpg
 






That service tool is worth it's weight in gold. It's always a good idea to replace the valve tappets as they are known to go bad after awhile. It seems I have read many posts lately about people throwing cam followers. The reason... bad valve tappets. When you tested the tappets just by cranking the engine over without starting it, you are not spinning the engine fast enough to displodge the tappet. When you do start the engine, it may have enough centrifugal force to pop that cam follower out again so be careful.
 






That service tool is worth it's weight in gold. It's always a good idea to replace the valve tappets as they are known to go bad after awhile. It seems I have read many posts lately about people throwing cam followers. The reason... bad valve tappets. When you tested the tappets just by cranking the engine over without starting it, you are not spinning the engine fast enough to displodge the tappet. When you do start the engine, it may have enough centrifugal force to pop that cam follower out again so be careful.

Is the "tappet" synonymous with the lash adjuster?
PS: Thanks for the tips & info, Rick. I'll let you know.
 






The tappet takes the place of the valve lifter, and the Cam Follower takes the place of the rocker arm. VAlve adjustment is not possible with the SOHC engine. For some reason when the tappet goes bad the plunger on the tappet collapses and does not extend. This results in the follower being kicked out of position when the engine is reved, simular to what you experienced. Ford recomends replacement whenever a tapping noise first begins.
 






Ford refers to the part as a hydraulic lash adjuster.

Properly speaking, a tappet is only that part of a rocker or follower arm which makes contact with an intake or exhaust valve stem.

The terms tappet or lifter are just common slang. Although technically they are not the same thing, these terms have been used for as long as I can remember to refer to lash adjusters. And everyone knows what your talking about when you use one of these terms. If you think that's confusing, try this, technically speaking, what is that big part under the hood? Is it an engine or a motor?

But yes, I would replace the lash adjuster they are only about ten bucks.

Bob
 






Thanks

More good info...thanks Bob and Rick.
 






Another update:

Sorry, been on the road for work, so I am just now posting an update:
I put everything back together, tapped the ignition switch, and it started right up. This rig has been sitting for about 4 years, so the gas was quite stale. I added 15 gallons of fresh fuel, with some SeaFoam, then drove it around the farm for a bit, and so far it runs fine. I also changed the oil & filter, plus a new air filter I had on hand. Also, I had to replace a metal brake line. A little more background: the reason this rig has been off the road is due to a busted range shifter (no high range, 4LOW only). So with funds being REAL tight, and with 166,000 miles, I have been somewhat cautious with sinking money into this rig. Now that I have the engine running, I will next pull the transfer case (BW 4405), and see about fixing the shift fork/range shifter.
Thanks everyone for the help, I really need to get this thing back on the road, as my other vehicle is on it's last leg.

UPDATE June 18th 2011: 15,000 miles since the repair, everything is still holding.
 






Hydraulic Lash Adjusters

Do i have to remove the Cam Shaft to remove the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters? i found one that is dead as door nail.
 






No charge the cylinder with air and use the special valve tool to compress the spring. Then the cam follower will come out, and then you can lift the lash adjuster right out.
 












Update

Not real important, but I did want to update this. So after 50,000 miles, the repair I made to the cracked valve cover (used JB Weld) has proven to be inadequate. Over time, oil was beginning to seep down the engine, and occasionally drip onto the catalytic converter. It was making a mess under there, but never enough to spot the driveway. So a while back I purchased a used cover from a fine vendor here on the site, for a very reasonable price. I also picked up a gasket set from the local parts house. So I swapped it out, this time following the book and removing the upper intake as opposed to pulling the accumulator, reservoirs, etc. No more oil seeping down all over the place.
 






OK sorry bringing this one back from the dead!

98,000 miles later (259,000 total), I notice a rough idle, which immediately caught my attention because this engine always ran perfectly smooth and quiet. Then I can smell some oil. Truck is still running very well, but I pop the hood and there is a lot oil on the left side this time, coming from a nickel sized hole in the left valve cover directly over the chain.

I parked it and do not plan to crank the engine until it is repaired.

I believe the chain has jumped a tooth, thus the rough idle. I imagine it will jump more if I start it again, and would certainly damage valves.
 






Sorry to hear it's broken the other VC. I think it's time to replace the timing chain components.
 






I haven't had a chance to tear it down yet, but just guessing maybe it needs a left cassette? Tensioner too. I think I will pull the intake and valve cover and have a look, then index the crankshaft and get the timing cover off.
 






If the mileage on the left cassette is more than about 75k, it's time to replace those things, but first hope to discover everything turns smoothly(except for that looseness from the timing chain pieces). If nothing serious is damaged, then the timing components can be serviced, and get the engine running again.
 






I have removed the left valve cover for inspection, to try to assess the viability of an in-vehicle repair. What I have found is a failure of the cassette on the traction side. I can see plastic chunks laying down in the timing cover area. But of more importance I suppose, as I suspected the chain has jumped one tooth.

I will at some point pull the timing cover for further inspection of the jackshaft. If it looks decent iI there I will attempt a cam chain guide replacement using some techniques from streetrod thread. Truck has 270,000 miles and is very good condition.
 






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