Anyone ever heard of this?

[Catch22556]

All 5 front wheel studs on my 1991 EB are stripped out on the passenger side... Tried an impact gun running 200psi and nothing, they just spin either way. Stock aluminum sploder wheels so i cant get to the lug nuts with a nut buster. Don't know anybody with a cutting torch. Only other way i can think of for getting the wheel off to replace the rotor/studs is to go ballistic with a sawzall and cut up the wheel..

 

[03whtexpsprt]

Try taking a dremel with a cut off wheel and VERY CAREFULY cut the nut off...or if you can cut it straight up and down (6 and 12 on a clock) or left to right (3 and 9 on a clock) in the center on the nut and stud and break off the nut that way...yeah you might have to replace 5 studs n 5 nuts...but is a hell of a lot cheaper then a whole rim and studs/nuts! Sounds like they might have went on cross threaded and stripped that way....good luck...

 

[Willard]

If you can, see about getting some vice grips on the nut and drilling the stud out from the nut, then if the nut doesn't fall off you can probably break if off easily. The suggestion above mine is good too if that doesn't work.

Since you are 4x4 it will be easiest to just replace the rotor when you get it off, since the rotors come with studs already pressed into them.

It is not common on a first gen 4x4 since the studs are replaced every time you replace the rotor. Has a shop done work on it before? Sounds like they impacted the studs on waaaaayyy too tight.

 

[Catch22556]

Unless i cant visualize it properly, there would be no way to get a dremel in there to cut the lug nuts the way they would need to be cut. Especially with the hub in the way. The lug nuts are set into the wheel too much Here are the wheels it has for the record.

 

[Catch22556]

If you can, see about getting some vice grips on the nut and drilling the stud out from the nut, then if the nut doesn't fall off you can probably break if off easily. The suggestion above mine is good too if that doesn't work.

Since you are 4x4 it will be easiest to just replace the rotor when you get it off, since the rotors come with studs already pressed into them.

It is not common on a first gen 4x4 since the studs are replaced every time you replace the rotor. Has a shop done work on it before? Sounds like they impacted the studs on waaaaayyy too tight.

No shop has touched it since i have owned it. And i have always torqued them down properly every time the wheel has been off. Drilling through grade 8 studs isn't exactly gonna be a walk in the park lol. Id probably go through a couple cobalt bits doing it and cobalt bits around here aint cheap..

 

[Willard]

I just thought of one other thing that might work. If you could get a sawzall or dremel or whatever in there to cut the nut lengthways, you could theoretically cut each one of them on two opposite sides and they should come off then. Beyond doing that, drilling them out, or using a nut buster, I see no other options.

 

[03whtexpsprt]

If you can get rite at the back of the nut with the dremel and cut it that way...rotate the wheel to where it makes it the easiest to do each nut....hope you have steady hands....dont want to cut in to the rim to much and send it out of balance.

 

[03whtexpsprt]

Thats what I was talking about doing Willard.

 

[1Byounkin]

I had this happen to me one time. Something better than a dremel and more powerful is to use a die-grinder. I used a die-grinder that is electric and turns 35,000 rpms. The bit to use is a tungsten carbide bit with a 1/4" shank. A die grinder with the right tungsten carbide bit will walk thru it. Follow what 03whtexpsprt is talking about. I don't think a dremel tool bit would cut it that good. Because of the harder metal.
If you do mess up the studs, they just knock out and knocw back in.

 

[Roadrunner777]

How about this: Drill a 1/8" hole at the thread interface and drive in a hardened pin. Now, if you turn the bolt, it should destroy the threads and the nut should slip off. New stud and lug nut, good to go.

or you start spinning the stud, which may not be good.

 

[Catch22556]

How about this: Drill a 1/8" hole at the thread interface and drive in a hardened pin. Now, if you turn the bolt, it should destroy the threads and the nut should slip off. New stud and lug nut, good to go.

or you start spinning the stud, which may not be good.

That's the bad part, all 5 studs just spin inside the rotor, they are stripped. Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I'm gonna see about picking up a die grinder. That's the only air tool i don't have, might as well add one to the arsenal.

 

[1Byounkin]

I'm not sure about using an air die-grinder. The air one I have doesn't have much torque. I've always used a electic die grinder. But ether one might work just as good. You need one with good speed (35,000 rpms) and torque. This best bit to use is this kind >

tungsten carbide bit with a 1/4" shank. I know that lowes sells them for the Rotozip for about $15 a pices, but worth it. Make sure you brace yourself when you cut. If you let it lose control you can break a bit or hurt something. Good luck.

 

[Roadrunner777]

cold chisel the nuts from the top edge down

 

[mr cribb]

Is the cost of a salvage wheel too much?

Do you happen to have a spare wheel/ tire under your truck?

I was asking because on the chance you "HAVE" to F*** up your wheel, you could still be mobile. This is all assuming you're just as broke as I am and having just enough $$$ to replace the rotor.

If there is a up-pull-it type of JY in your area, a wheel "SHOULDN'T" be too expensive. I know around here they go for about $13 per wheel at these types of junkyards.