2000 5.0 Ex Base Timing????

[oilleak]

I'm trying to establish that the base ignition timing on my 2000 5.0 is 10*BTDC. I can not locate a SPOUT connector - does the 2000 model have one? If so, where in the hell did they hide it?
Currently the timing light indicates it's at 10*BTDC on cold start and it idles normally. Once it warms up the timing advances to about 20*BTDC and the idle gets quite rough (engine shaking). the truck runs but is down on power.
All of this occurred after changing the CPS and Sync Drive. The proper alignment tool was used and nothing else was changed so I'm at a loss as to what's causing the idle and power issues as it ran fine before. At lease the squeaky sync drive is fixed.

 

[waskly]

spout was on odb1 cars not odb2

 

[oilleak]

That helps but it also means that my Haynes manual doesn't.
Is there a base timing setting for the 2000 - EEC-V right?
Should the timing at idle (warm) be 20*BTDC?
Given the only change was the cam sync and position sensor, I've got think that's where the rough idle is coming from.

 

[waskly]

the syncro id's cylinders fires, did you use the tool to drop the syncro?

at warm up, the engines ect sensor hands off timing to the pcm which it will retard/advance it as it sees fit.

on a 2000 5.0 ex the syncro is installed at tdc not 10 before tdc.

CAUTION: Once the engine is aligned at TDC, do not move the crankshaft until the entire procedure is complete. Doing so will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, causing a possible emissions fault.

NOTE: Prior to the removal of the camshaft position (CMP) sensor, set the No. 1 cylinder to top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Then note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. Installation procedures require that the electrical connector be located in the same position.

Remove the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. For additional information, refer to Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor—5.0L, 4.0L (Push Rod) and Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor—4.0L SOHC in this section.
Remove the (A) bolt and (B) clamp.

NOTE: The oil pump driveshaft might come out with the camshaft synchronizer. If so, retrieve the oil pump driveshaft before proceeding.

Remove the camshaft synchronizer.

Installation

CAUTION: A special tool must be used during the installation of the replacement synchronizer assembly. Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.

CAUTION: It is very important to coat the gear on the camshaft synchronizer with Super Premium SAE-5W-30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-DSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G. Failure to do so could result in gear failure.

Install (A) Synchro Positioning Tool, aligning tabs and notches with those on the (B) camshaft synchronizer.

NOTE: When installing the camshaft synchronizer into the cylinder block, make sure that the arrow on special tool is pointing toward the front of the vehicle, on a line that is parallel to the center line of the crankshaft.

NOTE: The synchronizer will rotate slightly as the synchronizer gear engages the camshaft gear. When the synchronizer is fully installed the arrow on the special tool should point to the position of the electrical connector.

Install the camshaft synchronizer.

Position the clamp and install the bolt.

Remove the special tool.
Install the CMP sensor. For additional information, refer to Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor—5.0L, 4.0L (Push Rod) and Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor—4.0L SOHC in this section.

 

[oilleak]

Yup. Used the OTC tool. Installed sync at TDC (0 indicated on the balancer). I was trying to confirm that the indicated TDC is correct and it sounds like it is as at cold start the ignition timing is steady at 10*BTDC which I think is exactly where it's supposed to be. Thus the marks on the balancer are accurate.

I'm going to try re-installing it just in case I missed something. After that, I guess it's time to break out the multi-meter...

 

[waskly]

did you verify the piston is compression, tdc?

 

[Turdle]

Tha cam sensor has nothing to do with ignition timing. The crank position sensor does though-

Now, what you might find is the crank pulley has slipped on the harmonic balancer assembly.
The crank pulley-harmonic balancer is a 3 piece unit. If 2 parts shift in relation to each other then the crank tone ring will be out of phase with the crank sprocket.

 

[oilleak]

that's exactly what I'm trying to rule out. If the base ignition timing is 10*BTDC and the timing light indicates ignition timing at 10*BTDC at idle (which it does while the engine is still cold) then the balancer hasn't shifted and the TDC mark is an accurate reference point.

If #1 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, the stator on the cam sync would be pointing toward the rear of the engine correct? It'll only point towards the "window" on the front of the sync body at TDC on compression.

 

[Turdle]

that's exactly what I'm trying to rule out. If the base ignition timing is 10*BTDC and the timing light indicates ignition timing at 10*BTDC at idle (which it does while the engine is still cold) then the balancer hasn't shifted and the TDC mark is an accurate reference point.

If #1 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, the stator on the cam sync would be pointing toward the rear of the engine correct? It'll only point towards the "window" on the front of the sync body at TDC on compression.

This is correct, if it was installed correctly.

 

[oilleak]

Re-installed the Sync and Cam Sensor - no improvement.
So I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. Problem solved!
Not sure what PO'd the PCM but it's gone now.

On to the rear main seal