Need Help with Cracking Paint and rust on 98 Sport!!! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Need Help with Cracking Paint and rust on 98 Sport!!!

Betsy98Sport

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 30, 2010
Messages
129
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City, State
San Diego, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
07 Ford Explorer Eddie B
My 98 Sport's paint has been starting to crack over the past few years. I never did much about it except for using some matched spot paint in some places. But there's rust now and paint cracking and chipping off. I unfortunately never did a great job of taking of the paint (waxing, polishing, etc.). All the chipping and rust is on the roof of the Sport. Take a look at the pics and see what you think. (the car is dirty so the dust may make it look worse)

cracked along top (not sure what to do here)
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Rust spots
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Rust spot and unfortunate chipping that occured after windshield was replaced when painters tape was taken off
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I spot painted this. This the top of the taligate
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I was thinking sand, prime, and paint. But I've never done this type of thing before so if you make a suggestion please fill me in on what I should I get. Will I need filler? Also not sure what to do about the cracking.
 



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You need to repaint the vehicle. At least remove the rust and prime it. Once the rust starts it is like a cancer, it spreads and get worse.

To repaint all the old paint has to be removed. You will need to sand it to original primer coat, or even better bare metal. If you have never done this kind of work it is best to use a professional. But it can be expensive, due to the amount of labor involved. If you have the time, patience, a garage and professional help it can be done.

I painted my 91 X a few years ago. It was a great learning experience. This is my write up:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100110&highlight=explorer+paint
 






Im actually in the process of doing this on my 01 sport now. Learned this from my dad and it works pretty well (Doesn't always look as good as a shop, but it removes the rust and makes it looks the same from a few feet away)

1. Sand - I go from 80 grit and finish with 120 and 320. Sand off all of the rust to the bare metal. If you dont, the rust will continue in the spot.

2. Rust remover - Its a pinkish liquid you apply then remove. Helps remove any excess rust.

3. Bondo if needed - I hate working with this stuff, but if the rust penetrated deep enough, you have to use it in order to make it look flush. Sand the same as in #1.

4. Prime - Spray primer and sand until flush with car

5. Paint - I have yet to find a paint that matches exactly (Taking in scratches and a little fading) but if youre patient, you can make it look decent. Not as well as if you repainted the whole thing, but Im willing to sacrifice a little unevenness for the money saved.


Overall, like the guy said above, get rid of the rust. Thats the number 1 item on your list no matter which way you decide to go. The other important thing is to remember whether spending the money to repaint your entire car is logical (I like to tinker and have to force myself to remember this one). You can repaint it, but is it really worth spending even half the value of the total car?

Just some things to think about.
 






You need to repaint the vehicle. At least remove the rust and prime it. Once the rust starts it is like a cancer, it spreads and get worse.

To repaint all the old paint has to be removed. You will need to sand it to original primer coat, or even better bare metal. If you have never done this kind of work it is best to use a professional. But it can be expensive, due to the amount of labor involved. If you have the time, patience, a garage and professional help it can be done.

I painted my 91 X a few years ago. It was a great learning experience. This is my write up:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100110&highlight=explorer+paint

I'd love to do this, but I dont love the car that much and $400 is not the route I was headed. Plus I live in an apartment so spot id what Im going towards. Im not looking for perfection. Being that my X sport is white, matching isn't important. Im looking more towards protection than anything else.

Im actually in the process of doing this on my 01 sport now. Learned this from my dad and it works pretty well (Doesn't always look as good as a shop, but it removes the rust and makes it looks the same from a few feet away)

1. Sand - I go from 80 grit and finish with 120 and 320. Sand off all of the rust to the bare metal. If you dont, the rust will continue in the spot.

2. Rust remover - Its a pinkish liquid you apply then remove. Helps remove any excess rust.

3. Bondo if needed - I hate working with this stuff, but if the rust penetrated deep enough, you have to use it in order to make it look flush. Sand the same as in #1.

4. Prime - Spray primer and sand until flush with car

5. Paint - I have yet to find a paint that matches exactly (Taking in scratches and a little fading) but if youre patient, you can make it look decent. Not as well as if you repainted the whole thing, but Im willing to sacrifice a little unevenness for the money saved.


Overall, like the guy said above, get rid of the rust. Thats the number 1 item on your list no matter which way you decide to go. The other important thing is to remember whether spending the money to repaint your entire car is logical (I like to tinker and have to force myself to remember this one). You can repaint it, but is it really worth spending even half the value of the total car?

Just some things to think about.

This is the kind of idea I was thinking about doing

SAM_0075.jpg
 






take back the paint around the rust about 2in from were it ended at and after you paint it take a green house hold scrubby pad and lightly scuff about 3 more inches out from were you plan to paint and after you paint don't forget to get a can of clear coat to stop the new paint from pealing (if you paint metal and don't seal it water will bled through the paint and rust it again) (its good to use the same paint and clear coat from the same manufacturer )
 






PS
use the green scrubby on the new paint after it dries for at least 24hrs before you clear coat it ( it gives the clear coat something to bind to when applying and remember to not push on the scrubby just palm it very lightly and let it do its job. you also might look into whats called a tack cloth to clean the area before you paint to get the majority of the dust and sanding particles out of the way.
 






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