Radius Arm Bushing

[baphomet666]

Hello everyone

I have to replace the "Radius Arm Bushing" on my EXPLORER 94.
Could you tell me what is the best quality between the rubber and the polyurethane.
Could you also tell me the name of a good quality for these parts?
Beck Arnley, Ingalls. or what else.
Thank you for your help

if you can give a link to buy the parts, thank you very much

:exp::exp:

 

[Ronin8002]

Polyurethane should last longer than rubber. I have a set of the Energy Suspension brand that I'd be happy to sell. PM me if you are interested.

 

[Turdle]

If off roading, rubber will out last poly. The poly tend to beak under extreme flexing.

IMHO

 

[Ronin8002]

Didn't know that, good info!

 

[Maniak]

Moog also make a set of adjustable Caster Radius Arm bushings. I've tried them and they do let you adjust the caster BUT, if your doing hard off-road you can shatter them and of course, its normally the off-road rigs (lifted) that need caster help.

~Mark

 

[Turdle]

wait--are we discussing the radius arm bushing to the frame bracket, or, the radius arm c bushings on the axle?

 

[Maniak]

wait--are we discussing the radius arm bushing to the frame bracket, or, the radius arm c bushings on the axle?

I'm talking about the one at the end of the Radius arm, where it connects to a frame bracket.

There is no "bushing" where the Radius arm meets the axle beams on the dana 35 ttb.

This is the kinda that I've broken. Its a harder material than even the poly ones. They sell the Caster adjusting bushing per side. Here is a pic of the parts for one side via rockauto (its in their camber/caster bushing section)

~Mark

 

[baphomet666]

big thank you all for every the explanations


with your experience you have any advice to give me what I should buy to replace my old. many roads and paths especially of mud and stone ever major road

a picture would apreciate, thank you very much for your help

:exp::exp:

 

[Maniak]

big thank you all for every the explanations


with your experience you have any advice to give me what I should buy to replace my old. many roads and paths especially of mud and stone ever major road

a picture would apreciate, thank you very much for your help

:exp::exp:

Personally, I liked the Moog Problem solver rubber bushings but we wheel our X. I ran the Poly ones before (read, cheap poly) and they did not last once we started wheeling.

~Mark

 

[baphomet666]

Thank you very much Mr Maniak

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[baphomet666]

Replace Radius Arm Bushing


Please,
to replace Radius Arm Bushing
i need to get out the Coil spring located in place or it is , or I can do without

I decision to replace radius arm bushing
not pierce or remove the rivets.
just Simply by pulling on the front axle
Thank you very much for your explanation and advices, or what else

:exp::exp:

 

[scoarch]

i have replaced bushings both ways and think it is worth it to remove the rivets.
it is not hard to do with the right tools. ie a cold chisel and a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel.
just cut a x in the rivet head and chisel off then punch out remaining piece.

then if you have to replace them again it is real easy.
just make sure you use grade 8 hardware to bolt it back together

 

[baphomet666]

just make sure you use grade 8 hardware to bolt it back together

Thank you very much Mr scoarch
But i not understand you, the Google translator say to me ( in French )
" assurez-vous juste que vous utilisez la 8 e année du matériel pour le boulon de ".
This for me do not want to tell me?
you rather explain the importance of the diameter of bolts and nuts,that's what you want to explain to me .
if you want to explain this, can give me the diameter of bolts and nuts to use ** thank you very much for your advice

** In FRANCE diameter bolts and nuts are differents
with kindness you can give the conversion sorry for the inconvenience,.
but a translator is not always easy to understand everything

:exp::exp:

 

[Ronin8002]

Grade 8 hardware means the strength of the bolts, not the size:

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp

 

[baphomet666]

Grade 8 hardware means the strength of the bolts, not the size:

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp

ok, thank you very much MR Ronin8002.
i understand your explanation.

Could you give me other explanation please
I must buy Grade 8 bolt capability in yield (stretch) or Grade 8 bolt capability in tension (failure) i think Ultimate Shear Capability of Fastener (ksi) are the best .
you are ok with me MR Ronin8002.
ultimate question please.
so far I have not disconnected the arm radius
i think best bought in first Grade 8 bolt could you say what Fastener Diameter I have to take for my truck please.
It's difficult for me for read this measurement chart.

Thank you very much for your explanations and advices
sorry for this inconvenience
:exp::exp:

 

[Ronin8002]

The grade 8 bolts have different strength ratings depending on whether the load is a tensile load or a shear load. With radius arms both types of load will be put on the bolt. Do not be concerned about these numbers.

You just need to replace the original bolt with a grade 8 bolt of equal size.

 

[baphomet666]

The grade 8 bolts have different strength ratings depending on whether the load is a tensile load or a shear load. With radius arms both types of load will be put on the bolt. Do not be concerned about these numbers.

You just need to replace the original bolt with a grade 8 bolt of equal size.

Ok MR Ronin8002,

Sorry but i don't understand " grade 8 bolt " is not similar here in France.
ho thin I'm really sorry to bother you

:exp::exp:

 

[Roadrunner777]

In the US, nuts and bolts are available in 2 common grades: Grade 5 and Grade 8. This refers to the general strength of the nut and bolt.

Grade 5 is what someone might use for a non-critical task. Grade 5 is commonly silver color, zinc coated.

Grade 8 is a stronger alloy, usually amber or yellow colored.

If you tell your supplier it is for your suspension and needs to be strong, they should give you the correct type of bolt. The metric equivelant is Class 10.9, and your bolts should be marked 10.9.

So, US grade 8 = metric class 10.9

 

[geosnooker2000]

Ok MR Ronin8002,

Sorry but i don't understand " grade 8 bolt " is not similar here in France.
ho thin I'm really sorry to bother you

:exp::exp:

Maybe buy your bolts from an American distributor on line? Just a thought.

 

[baphomet666]

Roadrunner777;2779829]In the US, nuts and bolts are available in 2 common grades: Grade 5 and Grade 8. This refers to the general strength of the nut and bolt.

Grade 5 is what someone might use for a non-critical task. Grade 5 is commonly silver color, zinc coated.

Grade 8 is a stronger alloy, usually amber or yellow colored.

If you tell your supplier it is for your suspension and needs to be strong, they should give you the correct type of bolt. The metric equivelant is Class 10.9, and your bolts should be marked 10.9.

So, US grade 8 = metric class 10.9

geosnooker2000 Maybe buy your bolts from an American distributor on line? Just a thought.

Ok Mr Roadrunner777 i undterstand your answer, Thank you very much

Ok Mr geosnooker2000 now i search distributor on line i found, Thank you very much




Grade 8 10.9 metric looks like this model please

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