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Aftermarket speakers

GregV8

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 1, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Long Island, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 XLT
I have the Non-Sony system in my XLT and not too thrilled with the sound quality.
I know the options for an aftermarket upgrade are virtually non existent but I figured I might get better results with some good speakers. According to Crutchfield, many will fit and this would be a very simple install with no alterations to the vehicle.
Has anyone installed different speakers yet? Do they sound better?
 



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I have the Non-Sony system in my XLT and not too thrilled with the sound quality.
I know the options for an aftermarket upgrade are virtually non existent but I figured I might get better results with some good speakers. According to Crutchfield, many will fit and this would be a very simple install with no alterations to the vehicle.
Has anyone installed different speakers yet? Do they sound better?

Just finished adding a sub to the premium audio (non-sony xlt)... I think it completes the system. I don't see any need, nor benefit to replacing the actual speakers. Do you have the premium sound?
 






I have the sony system and pretty happy with it... I might add a signal processor if they exist, to add a more 5.1 like sound system... I would also think about adding an amp and better sub for when I really want to feel the music...
 






Just finished adding a sub to the premium audio (non-sony xlt)... I think it completes the system. I don't see any need, nor benefit to replacing the actual speakers. Do you have the premium sound?

I am thinking of doing the same thing. Would you happen to have any pictures and /or details of the install?
 






I am thinking of doing the same thing. Would you happen to have any pictures and /or details of the install?

I used a CACHE COE6 to get a summed amp output using the front left and right outputs from the stock amp as the input.

https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2443847/1/exploder?h=6f2d03

limited pictures of the splicing from the stock amp, and the coe6 setup. I'm going to clean up the splices and actually solder them, I just did a 30 minute install last night. I also need to route the wires better cause I left bulges under the passenger 2nd row carpet. I put a fosgate 500 watt amp I had laying around under the front passenger bucket (also in the pictures), and am running a 10" kicker l7 square that I had from a honda ridgeline install a few years ago. The box fits between the second and third rows, under the false floor, and can be moved to the very back behind the third row when needed.
 






Just saw on the ford Explorer Facebook page that JL Audio has a new stealthbox for the explorer that uses that empty storage space in right rear compartment...

"Stealthbox... this one fits the new 2011-Up Ford Explorer! It houses a 10W3v3 and installs out of the way of the third row seats, taking up no useful cargo space."
 






I like the idea behind the Stealbox but $600 plus for these things? Seems a little expensive for a subwoofer consider other options.
 






I like the idea behind the Stealbox but $600 plus for these things? Seems a little expensive for a subwoofer consider other options.

Wow, when I saw the stealthbox I was thinking that would be my answer, but expected maybe $150 or so, $600 is a bit much.
 






Wow, when I saw the stealthbox I was thinking that would be my answer, but expected maybe $150 or so, $600 is a bit much.

yeah, I'm with you on this one. I would pay upwards of 300$ for an interior matched, non invasive box that doesn't take up any of the cargo or seating space. But 600$ is ridiculous.
 






For those who haven't seen the stealth box

JL%20Stealth%202011%20Explorer.jpg
 






For those who haven't seen the stealth box

JL%20Stealth%202011%20Explorer.jpg

Thais for the pic. I was wondering how it looked inside the Explorer. I just got back from the local car audio dealer and they said they should see them by the end of this month. But they said although they don't have the price yet on this one, they are ranging from $650-950 for Ford models. That is without an Amp and without installation. The F-150's generally run in the $900's.

Ah well. Can probably live without a sub. Even an 8 inch there with amp and install was going to run me close to $600 all together.
 






It does look very nice and clean. But $600 and that's without an amp? That is way too much in my opinion.
 






I recently added 4 Sony 5 1/2" or were they 5 n 1/4" speakers to all doors. Purchased at Wally world. Added a 10" MTX sub and amp. Not the loudest, but much better than stock. Did not amp the speakers but prob should have. My first ever install and was quite easy.
 






So does anyone know how to get the door panels off and access the speakers?
 






This JL Stealth box is a must have for me.
 






I'm glad your pocket affords it. I can see the need to put in a sub-woofer to fill in that back space but I simply cannot see how they can justify $600. and it doesn't have an amp. For $600. they are giving you a glorified felt cabinet and speaker. Way, way overpriced IMHO.
 






Well look at it this way, if you have a audio shop custom make you one it will end up costing the same or if not more with all the time that it takes. I want this cause I hate the big boxs & this will take up NO space & have that custom factory look & the seats can go up or down when ever...no in or out of box or moving stuff around. Also I have all the wires and amp so this would be the only thing I need.
 






I used a CACHE COE6 to get a summed amp output using the front left and right outputs from the stock amp as the input.

https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2443847/1/exploder?h=6f2d03

limited pictures of the splicing from the stock amp, and the coe6 setup. I'm going to clean up the splices and actually solder them, I just did a 30 minute install last night. I also need to route the wires better cause I left bulges under the passenger 2nd row carpet. I put a fosgate 500 watt amp I had laying around under the front passenger bucket (also in the pictures), and am running a 10" kicker l7 square that I had from a honda ridgeline install a few years ago. The box fits between the second and third rows, under the false floor, and can be moved to the very back behind the third row when needed.

I was going through your pictures again and I realized I must have the premium sound too. Why was I under the impression I did not have it...duh!

So my question is: how did you get the rear quarter panel off?

thanks
 






So my question is: how did you get the rear quarter panel off?

There is a thread somewhere here you can search for it w/ a picture of where all the clips are, but basically you remove the two anchor screws (twist them hard, the little things you would tie the rear cover to). Then carefully pry from the window around the whole panel.

From my experience I can tell you to wrap the top of the panel with some sort of soft cloth or blanket as you pry it away. I scratched the crap out of the rear pillar panel as I was moving the panel around. They want 120$ for a new one (120$ for a piece of molded plastic, unreal)
 



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Today, I have installed a Sound Ordnance B-8PT active sub box (powered, all in one slim unit) in my XLT (with 202A premium audio). It was $179 shipped from Crutchfield.
Using the wire color codes from here
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~125888
I was able to tap into the Line-out of the head unit, directly at the input of the factory amp under the rear quarter panel. So I basically piggy backed on the factory amp, also for 12V+. I was going to run a 10 gauge wire to the battery but considering the low power needs of the Sound Ordnance box, I decided the power source at the factory amp will be sufficient. I also used the factory amp-turn-on wire which is only a 6V signal but it's enough to tell the SO sub to turn on.
Just for future reference, the factory line-out (=unamplified) colors are:
Left+ Green
Left- Gray
Right+ Purple
Right- Yellow

I ran all the wires (4 audio wires, 1 remote on, 1 power, 1 ground) to the trunk, neatly tucked behind the plastic panels. I also used a couple of quick-disconnect plugs from Radio Shack, just in case I need to remove the sub - so now its plug-n-play and is sitting under the 3rd row seats.

I set the sound on the head unit as follows: Bass: -2, Mid: 0, Treble: 8 (or so..)
So basically I turned the bass DOWN so the factory speakers don't get overwhelmed - at the same time I cranked it up on the SO amp itself so it does all the bass-work.

The results are pretty good, this unit gives just enough bass to fill that low end. It's not for banging through the hood... Just to enjoy the music.
 






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