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How to: How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
When you do a Lincoln locker you weld the spiders, not the axle shaft. So, you change it like normal. You basically pull the brakes off, pull the c-clip, pull the axle and then change the seal.

That is of course assuming this is still an 8.8 solid axle

~Mark

edit: Gavin hit submit before me.. :)
 



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Hi there, i am in the middle of doing my bearings and seals.
1, I have no 'o' rings on the shafts for the C clips.
2, I found 2 penny sized disc's in the bottom of my diff housing.

Can anyone enlighten me to the size of the 'o'ring, and also what and where the discs came from..
 






Hi there, i am in the middle of doing my bearings and seals.
1, I have no 'o' rings on the shafts for the C clips.
2, I found 2 penny sized disc's in the bottom of my diff housing.

Can anyone enlighten me to the size of the 'o'ring, and also what and where the discs came from..

pictures of the "discs" would help. I don't remember seeing anything that resembled a disc.

as for the o-rings... they aren't absolutely necessary, as far as I can tell.
they just help hold the c-clips in place while reinstalling. Not too sure on size, but I'm sure somebody might chime in on that.
 






Thanks for the speedy reply, i'll have to take a pic of the disc's tomorrow, as the truck is in work.. And i'm in the block, its hard to give military accommodation a better name...
 






ok, i have a couple of pics of the discs, can't seem to work out how to attach them here thou. (i'm not very computer friendly and can't work out the URL thing!!)
 






ok, i have a couple of pics of the discs, can't seem to work out how to attach them here thou. (i'm not very computer friendly and can't work out the URL thing!!)

you would need to upload the pictures somewhere like photobucket, imageshack, or the like.
Then insert the "code" they provide into a post.
 












Hope this works..

interesting... I can't think of what those might be..
can you tell what they're made of? metal? soft(er) material?
 






They are defintly metal, as you can see from the 1 on the right its mushroomed over at the edge. The other has some damage aswell but that looks like it might of hit some of the gearing.
They do have the number 019 on them, so not sure if they are shims from somewhere .
 






They are defintly metal, as you can see from the 1 on the right its mushroomed over at the edge. The other has some damage aswell but that looks like it might of hit some of the gearing.
They do have the number 019 on them, so not sure if they are shims from somewhere .

definitely not shims. Can you tell what the beige stuff is?
Hopefully somebody else might chime in with what these might be... I really have absolutely no idea.
 






The beige/brown is a very thin layer, i run a blade across it and it went straight to metal. Not sure what it is, but it doesn't rub off with a rag.
The grey/black substance is a lot thicker, almost like a dried graphite paste/paint.

Ok, have located where i think they've come from. Will put some pics on later, but still need a bit of advice about them..
 






Heres where those discs belong:
(dead links)
Now if anyone can assit in letting me know what they are and what they are for i'd be extremely grateful.
 






ok, that makes sense.
I did happen to find a thread elsewhere, from years ago, where the "ears" of some of the clutches in the limited-slip clutch pack broke off.
I'm guessing your rear axle has a limited slip, and that's probably what happend here.

Now, normally you should/would want to replace the clutch pack since it's apparently going south, but it's possible you may be able to leave it as-is without any issues.
 






Am just waiting for the bearings and seals and will put it together. Due to lack of cash i'm going to have to wait to repair the clutches. As long as its not going to affect the diff or drive-ability that is.
Many thanks to the help and assisstance :salute:
 






Back together now, with some fresh 75w-140, still has a 'squeak' type of noise coming from the backend thou. I didn't refit the park brake so non of that can be rubbing, even lubed up the leaf springs to see if it was them, but nope still have the noise. Starting to think it might have something to do with the missing ears on the clutch's.
Have had all 4 wheels off the ground and run it up with no noises..

HELP please..................................
 






Instructions worked well.
Note, Make sure you can remove the refill plug before you start the job.
 






Gavin, Thanks for the GREAT thread :thumbsup: on replacing the rear axle seals and bearings. With the help of your photos and instructions I was able to replace mine today.
 






The axle barring and seal thred helped so much I had a broken axle shaft to replace
 






This thread is a life/money saver! I am looking at doing this over the next week or two. So here are my two questions. The whole DO NOT SPIN, yes it is serious, and that is the part that really "scares" me. Will putting back the pin and bolt stop that as a problem, or mitigate it enough?

I am doing this because I have a leaking driver side seal, should I do the bearings at this time because i have it apart? No noise coming from the wheel just some horriable stinky fluid!!

Thanks!!!
 



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This thread is a life/money saver! I am looking at doing this over the next week or two. So here are my two questions. The whole DO NOT SPIN, yes it is serious, and that is the part that really "scares" me. Will putting back the pin and bolt stop that as a problem, or mitigate it enough?

I am doing this because I have a leaking driver side seal, should I do the bearings at this time because i have it apart? No noise coming from the wheel just some horriable stinky fluid!!

Thanks!!!

if you rotate the carrier with the cross-pin removed, there is a chance the side and spider gears can pop out including any shims. With the cross-pin installed, this will not happen. You can certainly remove the cross-pin long enough to remove the axle, then install the cross-pin while performing the bearing and seal maintenance.

While you have it apart, it would not be a bad idea to go ahead and replace the bearings and seals on both sides.

Make sure to purchase a new cross-pin bolt. While I did re-use mine once or twice, with as cheap as they are it would be best to just replace it.
 






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