reccomendations for a new battery

[LMHmedchem]

Hello all,

I am needing a new battery for my 2002 explorer and would like some recommendations. This is the V8 version XLT. I would rather not just go down to advance auto parts and just ask what the sales folks want me to buy, although they have been pretty helpful in the past. It never hurts to do a bit of homework in advance, or ask someone to do it for you.

I see batteries that range from $90-$125, and then there are some that are more like $190. I can post some links if that would be helpful.

Thanks and someone let me know if I posted in the wrong place. I had a 91 explorer that I ran for 17 years, but it finally gave out (I didn't think I would make it to the dealer) and I replaced it with the 2002. The v8 is a bit excessive and I have to stop at every other gas station on the street just to make it to the end of the block, but I wouldn't give it up for the world.

LMHmedchem

 

[Exproblems]

Hello all,

I see batteries that range from $90-$125, and then there are some that are more like $190. I can post some links if that would be helpful.

LMHmedchem

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Do not buy a battery that is undersized for your vehicle. Since you have the V-8 model, I would recommend a battery with at least 850-1000 CCA's or Cold Cranking Amps. If you live in a colder climate like I do, you'll be glad you did. You want plenty of power at start up. I bought a top of the line Advance Auto Parts Platinum battery back in 2005 and it was still working great when I traded in the Jeep I installed it in, back in Jan 2011 for the Explorer I now have. I did my maintenance on it twice a year, checking water level and cleaning the terminal area and using anti-corrosion spray, and it never gave me a problem or failed to start my Jeep. Buy the better Advance battery, not the cheapest. Advance Auto Parts will even install the battery for you for free, if you are not that mechanically inclined to do it yourself. I always install my own batteries because these parts store clerks are not mechanics and I want it done right the first time.
My brother had Advance Auto install a battery for him in his Honda SUV, and they forgot to tighten up his negative terminal and he was having some electrical issues afterwards until I looked at it for him and found the loose terminal. They also failed to thread the tie down bolt/bracket properly and the battery was basically laying loose in the battery tray. He said the parts store guy was in a hurry when he installed it. You get what you pay for!

 

[xlt03]

I had plenty of luck with Costco's batteries. Price is better than Advance, AutoZone. 100 months warranty (pro-rated) - can't beat the price and warranty. As Exproblems said, get one with high CCA.

 

[BigFellor]

The last battery I bought from AutoZone lasted me seven years and three or four cars. Ive had a Die Hard from Sears and I've seen another that were completely dead after several months and will never buy another.

 

[esclamada]

I bought autocraft silver at advance auto for my mounty, 750 CCA is enough even during the winter. My lincoln continental (V8 intertech) has them for years too.

It will be cheaper if you buy it online and pickup (replace) in their store and use coupon code "CCABIN" ($40 off)


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MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer

 

[RickM]

I have had very good experiences with Walmart Batteries. Battery comparison reports rate them up there with all the others as 2-3 manufacturers make for the majority of the brands.

Also, I have returned batteries two years later (one because of a bad alt) and instead of prorating the cost of the new battery they told me "go get a new one". They swapped one for one. Who else does that? (YMMV)

As mentioned make sure you, at minimum, match the battery CCA.

Signed, former Interstate Battery fan.

 

[guilateen]

I went with the Walmart 65nmax its a great battery. I subscribe to cosumer reports and it was in the top three behind those $180 ones you mentioned. It was about 88 dollars. I believe Johnson controls manufactured them. I've only had mine 2 years not problems at all. Our v8 reguires 850 cca and that's what it gives. The test rated true cca, cell life and deep cycle. Those upper priced ones use a technology call dlp I believe and to expensive for me. Besides they weren't that much better to justify the price.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I ended up getting this one,
AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 65, 850 CCA
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...__?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Confirmation-_-General

which was $94 after taxes, and core charges. Thanks for the tip about the coupon code. It's always nice to save a bit.

I checked out the Wallmart batteries, but the webpage didn't list the price or the CCA values. For the price, it said varies by store, and there was nothing about the CCA under the specs. The Wallmart isn't that close, so I wasn't going to drive all the way out there without knowing the price and such, but it was a good suggestion just the same.

I have been trying to avoid Sears altogether, so I wouldn't have got a Die Hard anyway, but thanks for the heads up. It's amazing what a trash heap Sears has become, very sad.

There's no Costco around here, so that option was out, but thanks anyway.

I would have got a model with a few more CCA, but it looks like I would have had to go well over $200 for that at advance.

When I put the new one in, I will clean the old connectors with baking soda and then work the insides a very little with emery paper. Is there anything else I should do before or after?

LMHmedchem

 

[LMHmedchem]

Well after I turned in my old battery, I got my $12 core deposit back and the total came out to $82, which is a good deal. The motocraft I replaced was only a 650 CCA, so the 850 will be a nice upgrade here when the winter gets really cold.

Thanks again for the help, now on to getting a new remote.

LMHmedchem

 

[fifthranger]

My brother had Advance Auto install a battery for him in his Honda SUV, and they forgot to tighten up his negative terminal and he was having some electrical issues afterwards until I looked at it for him and found the loose terminal. They also failed to thread the tie down bolt/bracket properly and the battery was basically laying loose in the battery tray. He said the parts store guy was in a hurry when he installed it. You get what you pay for

Mistakes can happen anywhere, and if this happened to me, I'd probably not go there also. Most batteries are manufactured by Johnson Controls and the label for the individual store is put on. Either way, it is a crap-shoot as more and more companies cut costs now. I'd say go with what makes you comfort-able regardless if it is superstitious or a myth, etc. Good luck.

 

[D Hook]

Little late to the party on this since you've already replaced yours but just to say I live and die by FOMOCO batteries. Had one in my Mustang that lasted over 8 years. Put one in my Mark VIII a couple years ago and wouldn't go with any other brand. When the Ex needs to be replaced, I'll be taking it to the dealer, since I'm worried about the 4x4 module getting fried when reconnecting. I figure, if they do it, they'll either do it correctly so as not to fry the module or they'll pay to replace the module. I won't let some guy at AutoZone do it. Rather pay the extra $$ to have it done correctly.

Making sure the battery is securely anchored is imperitive to making the battery last. Bouncing around in the tray is what shortens the life significantly.

Had my share of bad Die Hards so won't be doing that again.

The Porsche gets a new battery every two years, usually replaced under the warranty on a pro-rated basis, sometimes just given a new one in trade.

Good luck with yours.

 

[jakedrew]

I have a walmart battery in my 04 explorer and in my other car and plow truck.

The walmart battery in the plow truck impressed me after 4 years use in a car and now 5 years in that truck.

good luck

 

[fifthranger]

I have a walmart battery in my 04 explorer and in my other car and plow truck.

The walmart battery in the plow truck impressed me after 4 years use in a car and now 5 years in that truck.

good luck

Even Wal-Mart has two types of car batteries - the EverMax and EverMax Pro or Everstart and EverStart Pro. When I needed one, they had just the bare bones. Either way, you wouldn't think it would be hard to stock a battery for a Ranger, and I went to a couple places.

 

[Exproblems]

It will be cheaper if you buy it online and pickup (replace) in their store and use coupon code "CCABIN" ($40 off)>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Exactly Esclamada, great tip! A friend of mine told me about those coupons and I've been telling people in here to use those online coupons from Coupon Cabin at Advance Auto Parts stores for a while now, but didn't even think to mention it for the battery purchase. $40 off a $100 order is a great discount and they have other discount coupons for lesser amount purchases as well which I sure you know of. One thing you can't purchase online from Advance using a coupon is engine oil, I tried and got denied, it's because they usually have some kind of in store oil change discount package going on all the time.

 

[Exproblems]

Mistakes can happen anywhere, and if this happened to me, I'd probably not go there also. Most batteries are manufactured by Johnson Controls and the label for the individual store is put on. .

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I'd still buy a battery from Advance Auto Parts, especially with the $40 off a $100 purchase coupon you can get for their stores at coupon cabin, but I'd never let one of their clerks install my battery. I would do it myself. It was my brother who had them install his battery, he's kind of a mechanically challenged dummy.

 

[Exproblems]

When I put the new one in, I will clean the old connectors with baking soda and then work the insides a very little with emery paper. Is there anything else I should do before or after?

LMHmedchem

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"After" you clean up the battery terminal connectors and then reconnect and tighten them down to the new battery, spray the "outside edges" of both negative and positive terminals with a "battery terminal anti-corrosion spray". You can get a can of this spray at Advance Auto Parts as well. I like to also apply a little anti-seize lube to the threads on the battery hold down "bolts", so they don't get rusted or corroded and come apart easy the next time I have to remove the battery. Might be years before you have to remove the battery again, so this makes easier to remove at that time.

 

[D Hook]

A light coat of vaseline on the terminals is another alternative to the spray. I usually do it before putting them back on so I can get it on the bottom, too.

"Light" being the operative word here.

 

[Exproblems]

A light coat of vaseline on the terminals is another alternative to the spray. I usually do it before putting them back on so I can get it on the bottom, too.

"Light" being the operative word here.

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I don't know about Vaseline on the battery posts themselves prior to re-connecting the battery cables back up, but with the anti-corrosion spray, it's best not to get any of this spray on the bare battery post prior to re-connecting the battery cables. Anti-corrosion spray gets real tacky and will create a barrier between the battery post and connection side of the battery cable clamp if you spray it on the battery post prior to reconnecting the battery cables. You want clean bare metal (battery cable clamp) to lead (battery post) for the best electrical connection. Once the battery cable clamp is tightened up to the battery post, then you can spray on the anti-corrosion spray on the "external side" of the cable to post connection for protection from corrosion. A long time ago when I first started using anti-corrosion spray, I had a problem with with my battery post to cable connection, lost some battery power, because I sprayed the battery post directly before I reconnected up the battery cables. Once I cleaned up the battery posts and removed the anti-corrosion spray, everything was fine. The tacky spray caused a break in the electrical connection. From that day forward I always apply the spray after everything is reconnected and tightened down.

 

[LMHmedchem]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I don't know about Vaseline on the battery posts themselves prior to re-connecting the battery cables back up, but with the anti-corrosion spray, it's best not to get any of this spray on the bare battery post prior to re-connecting the battery cables. Anti-corrosion spray gets real tacky and will create a barrier between the battery post and connection side of the battery cable clamp if you spray it on the battery post prior to reconnecting the battery cables. You want clean bare metal (battery cable clamp) to lead (battery post) for the best electrical connection. Once the battery cable clamp is tightened up to the battery post, then you can spray on the anti-corrosion spray on the "external side" of the cable to post connection for protection from corrosion. A long time ago when I first started using anti-corrosion spray, I had a problem with with my battery post to cable connection, lost some battery power, because I sprayed the battery post directly before I reconnected up the battery cables. Once I cleaned up the battery posts and removed the anti-corrosion spray, everything was fine. The tacky spray caused a brake in the electrical connection. From that day forward I always apply the spray after everything is reconnected and tightened down.

I remember putting white lithium grease on the outside of the connectors after attaching them, but that was a long time ago. Is that something that is still done, or has it been replaced with newer anti corrosion coatings?

LMHmedchem

 

[Exproblems]

I remember putting white lithium grease on the outside of the connectors after attaching them, but that was a long time ago. Is that something that is still done, or has it been replaced with newer anti corrosion coatings?

LMHmedchem

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Don't really know if people still use lithium grease on their battery connections, but the anti-corrosion spray has been around for sometime. The stuff I use has a redish color to it and it becomes tacky a little while after applying it. It works great and I haven't had any corrsion on my battery connections since I started using it, probably 10 years or so. A can of it will last you a long time. I've got about 5 years on the can I have now with half a can left. I think it's a 12-14 ounce can and costs around $5, give or take.