High_Order1
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- January 31, 2007
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- near Oak Ridge, TN
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- 2005 Jack Bauer Edition
How to Change the PCV Valve on an 05 V6
Tools:
Small pair of channel lock pliers or similar
Mirror
Flashlight
Spare vehicle
Step stool or similar
Flat surface that isn’t part of the car to stage things
Time: Ten minutes easily
Effort: Not much, really
Complexity: Low
Why?
The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve is an engine component that vents overpressure from the crankcase. That’s it. Really.
Without the PCV, potentially due to leakby from the piston rings, or from a dozen other issues, pressure could build up in the non-piston chamber areas of your motor, and blow out one or more of your seals. In the Olde Days, there was just a fancy cover to keep the oil in, and let the pressure out.
Now, for reasons only known to the ages, the valve reintroduces whatever comes out into the intake to burn off whatever non-air stuff might be in the ventilation stream.
Here’s what the official manual says, if it helps:
…..which says….
Is it good still?
The older versions of the PCV simply consisted of a metal canister with a metal ball in there. Pressure builds up, ball dislodges, and pressure goes out. Unfortunately, a little oil does too. This eventually builds up and occludes that ball from moving, causing problems. So, you sprayed it out with some carb cleaner, and put it back for another 50k miles.
This one, ohhh no. There’s a weighted piston shape in that plastic body, and it apparently is heated at times. I’m not sure you can clean it. The official Service DVD doesn’t say.
The one I replaced rattled, but it looked like crap, so, screw it – I just replaced it.
How’d you do that, Shawn???
I’m so glad you asked. First, this would be the point where they tell you to chock the wheels, remove the battery terminals, etc. Screw that – live dangerously!! But, keep in mind that you’re going to be leaning over the battery for most of this procedure. Look down. You wearing even a thin metal necklace? Got on metal watches, rings, bracelets? You might get your first lesson in arc welding… take that stuff off. Now, check out your shirt and pants. Anything metal or sharp? Wave goodbye to that paint job. (For stuff like this, I don’t recommend using the big car fender blanket – those things can be slippery).
Witness the majesty of the Ford V6 4.0 liter SOHC powerplant!
Notice the crappy inset? Your target, should you choose to accept it, is back behind that plastic intake and valve cover mess. Ford had almost two feet on each side to mount that stupid pcv – they chose the MOST inopportune, inaccessible place on a valve cover. It’s bad enough, I thought, that I put this off for awhile. It really isn’t too bad, but it sure looks that way, doesn’t it?
Looking at a more close in picture, see that grey tit coming out of the back of the valve cover and going promptly into a hose? That’s it.
Ok, first thing I did was to yank the brake booster line off from the intake manifold. You might not need to; in retrospect, I don’t guess I needed to, either (I didn’t have this spiffy guide, neither!)
Next thing I did was try out a few things to get hold of that cheapass hose clamp back there.
First, I tried what some call ‘nines’, or ‘linemans’ pliers’, or, uh, ‘dykes’. (I don’t get the resemblance, either). There’s no room to maneuver those back there. So, I got my small set of channel lock pliers (I don’t know the generic term, sorry), and pinched, then slid the clamp back to the elbow of the hose.
Next thing I did was get hold of the valve, and twisted. Understand that me and plastical pieces have a bad, bad track record. If this were a movie, there would be a long flashback sequence of me breaking various expensive plastic pieces. In this case, these two parts (the valve and the cover) turned out to be pretty robust, so, continue to be cautious, but don’t sweat it.
I learned that the valve twisted towards the drivers’ side, and turned almost ninety degrees (if you started at 12 o’clock, you’d turn it to around the 9 o’clock), then with some resistance, pull it straight back to the rear of the compartment.
Now, here’s where it gets complicated. See the picture?
Both of those are correct PCV valves for my car. Obviously, there’s a difference. How do you know which one goes on yours? Short of reaching back there and feeling first, I dunno.
Here is the Motorcraft part number for the one that uses hot water: EV268
Here is what may be the part number for the electric one: (At post time, I never found it)
Here is what was written on my electric one when I yanked it: looks like 50132EV-261, then stamped >7PA66-GF33<
So, we have a valve dangling back there, with either an electric connector, or two water connectors. I can’t tell you what happens next If its’ the water one. For me, I was concerned I’d lose the electric connector, so after pushing the button and removing it from the valve, I *GENTLY* pushed my connector onto a stud I saw.
Here is where you and I part company. You obviously got the correct part. Me? I’m not paying 50 bucks for that thing. Nosireebob. I pulled the water pipe offa that new one, lubed the o ring and connector with oil from the old one, and yes, yes I did - I put the 15 dollar-ish part right on there. Then, to make sure the lack of electrical connection didn’t offend the computer, I plugged the old one back into the harness, and it dangles there to this day.
Hey, I’m a rebel.
Then, I scooched the hose back onto the valve tit, grabbed the pliers, put the hose clamp back where it goes, put the vacuum line back on, and test fired the car. Sounded fine.
Conclusions:
That’s it. It took you longer to read this than it took me to do it, mistakes and photography and all. Wasn’t bad. And, now I’m not concerned that thing will fail (Especially seeing now its’ horizontally installed, that’s stupid) closed and pop a seal. Life’s good!
Tools:
Small pair of channel lock pliers or similar
Mirror
Flashlight
Spare vehicle
Step stool or similar
Flat surface that isn’t part of the car to stage things
Time: Ten minutes easily
Effort: Not much, really
Complexity: Low
Why?
The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve is an engine component that vents overpressure from the crankcase. That’s it. Really.
Without the PCV, potentially due to leakby from the piston rings, or from a dozen other issues, pressure could build up in the non-piston chamber areas of your motor, and blow out one or more of your seals. In the Olde Days, there was just a fancy cover to keep the oil in, and let the pressure out.
Now, for reasons only known to the ages, the valve reintroduces whatever comes out into the intake to burn off whatever non-air stuff might be in the ventilation stream.
Here’s what the official manual says, if it helps:
…..which says….
Is it good still?
The older versions of the PCV simply consisted of a metal canister with a metal ball in there. Pressure builds up, ball dislodges, and pressure goes out. Unfortunately, a little oil does too. This eventually builds up and occludes that ball from moving, causing problems. So, you sprayed it out with some carb cleaner, and put it back for another 50k miles.
This one, ohhh no. There’s a weighted piston shape in that plastic body, and it apparently is heated at times. I’m not sure you can clean it. The official Service DVD doesn’t say.
The one I replaced rattled, but it looked like crap, so, screw it – I just replaced it.
How’d you do that, Shawn???
I’m so glad you asked. First, this would be the point where they tell you to chock the wheels, remove the battery terminals, etc. Screw that – live dangerously!! But, keep in mind that you’re going to be leaning over the battery for most of this procedure. Look down. You wearing even a thin metal necklace? Got on metal watches, rings, bracelets? You might get your first lesson in arc welding… take that stuff off. Now, check out your shirt and pants. Anything metal or sharp? Wave goodbye to that paint job. (For stuff like this, I don’t recommend using the big car fender blanket – those things can be slippery).
Witness the majesty of the Ford V6 4.0 liter SOHC powerplant!
Notice the crappy inset? Your target, should you choose to accept it, is back behind that plastic intake and valve cover mess. Ford had almost two feet on each side to mount that stupid pcv – they chose the MOST inopportune, inaccessible place on a valve cover. It’s bad enough, I thought, that I put this off for awhile. It really isn’t too bad, but it sure looks that way, doesn’t it?
Looking at a more close in picture, see that grey tit coming out of the back of the valve cover and going promptly into a hose? That’s it.
Ok, first thing I did was to yank the brake booster line off from the intake manifold. You might not need to; in retrospect, I don’t guess I needed to, either (I didn’t have this spiffy guide, neither!)
Next thing I did was try out a few things to get hold of that cheapass hose clamp back there.
First, I tried what some call ‘nines’, or ‘linemans’ pliers’, or, uh, ‘dykes’. (I don’t get the resemblance, either). There’s no room to maneuver those back there. So, I got my small set of channel lock pliers (I don’t know the generic term, sorry), and pinched, then slid the clamp back to the elbow of the hose.
Next thing I did was get hold of the valve, and twisted. Understand that me and plastical pieces have a bad, bad track record. If this were a movie, there would be a long flashback sequence of me breaking various expensive plastic pieces. In this case, these two parts (the valve and the cover) turned out to be pretty robust, so, continue to be cautious, but don’t sweat it.
I learned that the valve twisted towards the drivers’ side, and turned almost ninety degrees (if you started at 12 o’clock, you’d turn it to around the 9 o’clock), then with some resistance, pull it straight back to the rear of the compartment.
Now, here’s where it gets complicated. See the picture?
Both of those are correct PCV valves for my car. Obviously, there’s a difference. How do you know which one goes on yours? Short of reaching back there and feeling first, I dunno.
Here is the Motorcraft part number for the one that uses hot water: EV268
Here is what may be the part number for the electric one: (At post time, I never found it)
Here is what was written on my electric one when I yanked it: looks like 50132EV-261, then stamped >7PA66-GF33<
So, we have a valve dangling back there, with either an electric connector, or two water connectors. I can’t tell you what happens next If its’ the water one. For me, I was concerned I’d lose the electric connector, so after pushing the button and removing it from the valve, I *GENTLY* pushed my connector onto a stud I saw.
Here is where you and I part company. You obviously got the correct part. Me? I’m not paying 50 bucks for that thing. Nosireebob. I pulled the water pipe offa that new one, lubed the o ring and connector with oil from the old one, and yes, yes I did - I put the 15 dollar-ish part right on there. Then, to make sure the lack of electrical connection didn’t offend the computer, I plugged the old one back into the harness, and it dangles there to this day.
Hey, I’m a rebel.
Then, I scooched the hose back onto the valve tit, grabbed the pliers, put the hose clamp back where it goes, put the vacuum line back on, and test fired the car. Sounded fine.
Conclusions:
That’s it. It took you longer to read this than it took me to do it, mistakes and photography and all. Wasn’t bad. And, now I’m not concerned that thing will fail (Especially seeing now its’ horizontally installed, that’s stupid) closed and pop a seal. Life’s good!
