What tools to change upper manifold and valve cover gaskets?

[Foo]

Hey guys (and ladies if there are any) I am planning on replacing the drivers side valve cover and the upper intake manifold gaskets due to some leaking.

2003 4.0 SOHC Flex V6

Are there any specialty tools I need such as Torx bits?

Also are there any How-To's anywhere? I searched and could not come up with any.

 

[mikbor1]

You will need torx head for the manifold bolts--(with an extension)--Also a mirror to get the ones in the back by the firewall--Unless you remove hood to get a bords eye view--You do not have to remove the bolts on the manifold, just back them out--They will stay in the manifold while you lift it and also when you install it

 

[Foo]

Thank you, any idea on what size torx bits?

 

[mikbor1]

If I remember they were T30 and had to tighten to 89 inch lbs.

 

[Foo]

Anyone else? also torque specs are appreciated.

 

[boominXplorer]

YOOOOOOOO!!!!! Long time stranger!!! You need a T30 torx bit in 1/4" drive to make it easiest. I think the torque spec is 87 in/lbs also. Its pretty strait forward, just pay attention to all the vacuum hoses.

Also there is just 1 set of gaskets for the intake, its all one piece. Its not an upper/lower setup like the pre 01's

 

[Foo]

Boomin, been a long time!

You da man, T30 it is. I don't have anything that will go that low in the torque department so I'll do it by hand and snug her up.

Yes thanks for mentioning that about the upper/lower intake manifold gaskets. To clarify I know it's just one set but I always just feel like referring to them as upper for some weird reason.

 

[Hdale85]

On my 02 that rear bolt is a B*%$#! Still can't get it out, but I think the head may be rusted over. But reaching it is still a pain. I don't think you could see it even with the hood off. The edge of the firewall there just before the hood sit just over it.

 

[boominXplorer]

On my 02 that rear bolt is a B*%$#! Still can't get it out, but I think the head may be rusted over. But reaching it is still a pain. I don't think you could see it even with the hood off. The edge of the firewall there just before the hood sit just over it.

Yes, a swivel will help with the back 2 bolts

 

[mdboulier]

Did you have trouble with or need special tools for the EGR pipe?

 

[Foo]

Alright got my 1/4" T30 and swivel, all gaskets, and engine degreaser...

Ready to go! But does anyone have a diagram of the bolts on the intake manifold? I want to make sure I get them all off before I try to pull the intake off.

Also what in the world are the these grommets that came with the valve cover?

 

[stoogefan]

I pulled my intake and right valve cover last week to inspect the right cam chain. There are 8 intake bolts, on both sides (front and rear) of the front and rear intake ports. You shouldn't have to worry about not getting all of them since the manifold should start to move around when you loosen the last one. I had to feel around for the rear bolts with my fingers and I never saw them until I had the manifold off. Sorry, I don't have a diagram.

You will see what the grommets are for after pulling out the first valve cover bolt. I believe you need a deep 7mm or 8mm socket for these bolts. I had to disconnect the fuel line just before the right fuel rail. I still couldn't get the right cover off completely because there wasn't enough clearance between the cam sprocket and the heater hoses that go into the firewall. When I replace my timing chains next week, I will also remove the heater hoses since I need to drain the radiator anyway. Also, the EGR tube was a challenge but I got mine loose with a crescent wrench, 2x4, and hammer.

 

[thammel]

I did mine on my 02 Explorer recently and the EGR tube was the biggest pain. I had to buy a 27mm 1/2" drive crowfoot wrench. I could also have used a 25 mm open end. I never did get the end of it loose at the manifold so ended up bending it (very tough tube) enough to get the passenger side manifold off. Other tools needed are basic metric sockets (deep and shallow). I replaced the manifold gaskets and the valve cover(s) gaskets. It totally solved the oil leak on the driver side that was dripping onto the exhaust manifold and burning and making a mess.

Tom

 

[Foo]

Alright got her done...figured I might as well post up my experience. I only broke three things!!! This is from memory so forgive me if I forget something simple:

- Disconnect battery
- Degrease Engine
- Remove cover over throttle body (2, Torx screws)
- Remove throttle cables from throttle body as well as sensor connections
- Pull intake tube off of throttle body and remove throttle body from intake manifold (4, 8mm bolts)
- Remove EGR pressure feedback sensor (Just pull it out of the two rubber hoses and disconnect sensor)
- Disconnect EGR Tube nut with Crescent wrench (mine was easy, I took the throttle body off to get space)
- Pull/Bend EGR tube a little to get it out of the "hole".
- Remove EGR vacuum solenoid (one bolt, I broke mine trying to pull the two vacuum hoses off it so be careful)
- Remove vacuum line 90* connection on top of EGR solenoid (I broke mine pulling it apart so be careful, again)
- Various vacuum connections on the intake manifold such as PCV Valve etc.
- Remove Intake Manifold (8, T30 Torx Bolts. Four on the front of the engine and four on the rear, I used a 1/4 inch bit as well as a long (12") and short (4") extension. Did not need to use a swivel. The front four bolts are easily seen. The rear you will have to feel for and the ones closest to the drivers side I had to take the T30 on the 12" extension and feel around for it as I could not fit my hands in the holes between the intake runners or the firewall. The two closest to the passenger side you will be able to feel by reaching from the passenger side with your fingers.

Once you get past that the valve cover on the driver side is pretty cake, just disconnect the electrical connector going to the coil pack (broke this clip), various spark plug wire routing clamps, injector connectors as well as the 8mm bolts on the outside of the valve cover. Make sure to replace the grommets the bolts go into on the valve cover.

After Reassembly I noticed the Fel-Pro valve cover gasket makes the valve cover sit up off the head a little more then the factory but all was well. No leaks at all!

On first start up (Battery had been disconnected for 24 hours) the engine idled very rough. I triple checked all vacuum connections to make sure I hadn't missed one and all was good. Commenced test drive...still rough and ran like an absolute pig. Stopped at the store to get some starting fluid to diagnose any vacuum leak. Sure enough started it back it up and the check engine light came on but the idle and performance was back to normal.

Cleared the two codes it had and it has been great ever since, no oil leak from the valve cover, no vacuum leak I could find anywhere and no codes have re-appeared. I have no idea why it ran so bad at first. Also don't forget to top off your coolant.

 

[mdboulier]

I got the ERG pipe just by loosening the bottom fitting with my 10" adjustable crescent wrench; 2002 4.0L. I was able to finagle it out of there without removing the fitting from the top of the pipe. I recommend a universal joint for that one stubborn T30 bolt at the rear drivers side of the intake manifold. I had to sit up by the battery to be able to lean over and find it. One valve cover down, one to go.

My intake had some oil buildup inside, nothing excessive and doesn't come close to the air filter. Is this normal? I'm at 145k. Do I need to change the PCV valve?

 

[Foo]

Mine had the same "goop" oily buildup.

I changed my PVC valve out at 90k because I thought it might be the cause of an oil leak. Relatively cheap part and easy to change but there was nothing wrong with mine. Took it out and the check valve operated fine.

 

[home4sale2]

If I remember they were T30 and had to tighten to 89 ft. lbs.

Is this in. lbs or ft. lbs.?

 

[Foo]

Definitely inch pounds, at 89 ft. lbs. I'm sure those things would snap.

 

[home4sale2]

Any last minute hints guys? Based on posts above, i have, at a minimum most tools I need after a visit to the store.

- I could not find a torque wrench though, all local stores seem to have ones that start at 150 in lbs. Is this exact science or can I go by feel and tighten them just enough?

My plan is to do the following:
- Change spark plugs, wires, coil, valve cover gaskets (and therefore intake manifold gaskets, clean up MAF and Throttle assembly)

I don't have an air compressor but plan to clean the best I can with an engine degreaser and vacuum clean as needed?

In case I run into problems? I hope you guys check the forum

Also, MDBoulier, what's a universal joint got to do with this? I didn't understand what you meant.

Again, thanks in advance guys.

 

[Foo]

I just hand tightened the manifold bolts with a 1/4" ratchet pretty dang tight.

I cleaned my engine bay without an air compressor, it really helped as there was a lot of sludge around in the intake manifold base. Just make sure to really scrub any gasket mating surfaces and get them as clean as possible. Also I advise to shove some shop towels or paper towels into the inlet ports so you don't get any gunk into the heads, there will be a lot of it.

I think MDBoulier was trying to say a swivel joint for a socket.

I tried to list every tool I used in my walk-through, I found a swivel unnecessary.