Nate's Explorer rear SAS build

[NHarris]

After abusing my truck off road I ended up blowing out one of the axle shafts. The end link broke, and went through the axle shaft boot. I've located several different parts, and I've decided its time to tear apart the Explorer for a better set-up. I figure I will need $1000 in parts to eventually replace parts wearing down on the rear end. Instead a $1000 SAS will cut down on many parts that will wear down.
The set-up will involve
8.8" rear end off of a 1st generation Sport Trac
3.55 gears, rear will have a locker
Possibly Warrior 153 shackles to make it level.
I figure running leaf springs will be the easiest way of doing this. The leaf springs will be ran under the axle, as I don't want a 6" lift.

Timeline for this project; Now-August. I'll have it done in time for when I go back to college.

Instead of talking like most people, I will actually get this done.

-Subscribe for updates They will come.

 

[King of So Cal]

Can't wait!

I have to question the 3.55's though? My 4.56's aren't enough!

 

[armysoldier30263]

cant wait ... this needs to be done ... as rondo would say "subscribing " lol

 

[duner]

That rear end wont work.
I tried this before my lift kit I developed came together.
The driveline will hit the fuel tank and you will have to cut a bunch on the fuel tank gaurd and basicly "dent" the fuel tank. I already tried this and it was a waste of a weekend and money on the parts. I got it all in there and was ready to go until I tried the driveline and there was no way. It was 3" or more into the fuel tank.
Just a heads up so you dont do what I did.

 

[crazyflights]

Worst case, 8.8s are unequal length tube, cant remember off top my head which side is shorter than other, but if clearance with the tank is a problem, you might be able to swap axle tubes so longside gives you more clearance. Either way, you can make it work.

I'm excited to see..

 

[Limited02]

In for results

 

[JDwornik]

Duner. Let's see some pics of your set-up then!!!

 

[Triton8273]

as rondo would say "subscribing " lol

 

[duner]

Here ya go!
Full front and rear independent susspention lift

Some from today

 

[crazyflights]

Yea its lifted, but what I think Nharris is trying to do is get more reliablilty and stronger rearend setup, which you won't get with the IFS rear. That makes a great street cruiser lifted explorer, but would not last years of moderate offroad usage.

 

[NHarris]

Duner, so basically the current stock rear diff is off-set from the center and the ST has the diff centered?
I'm not exactly a fan of messing with the fuel tank.
So the best solution to this is basically how land rover has the discovery rear axle which has the differential offset to one side.

 

[BigRondo]

... as rondo would say "subscribing " lol

LMFAO!! and subscribing.........................

 

[boominXplorer]

Duner, so basically the current stock rear diff is off-set from the center and the ST has the diff centered?
I'm not exactly a fan of messing with the fuel tank.
So the best solution to this is basically how land rover has the discovery rear axle which has the differential offset to one side.

The exact opposite. Your diff is centered in the frame to where any 01 earlier explorer the diff is offset to the pass side about 2" or so. The only way I could see this working is using a full size 8.8 and cut it down to where the offset would fit. Even then I bet you will need 6" of lift just the get the axle away from the frame enough not to bottom out.

 

[duner]

Yea its lifted, but what I think Nharris is trying to do is get more reliablilty and stronger rearend setup, which you won't get with the IFS rear. That makes a great street cruiser lifted explorer, but would not last years of moderate offroad usage.

Thats true with any IFS or IRS in compairson to a SAS.

 

[duner]

The exact opposite. Your diff is centered in the frame to where any 01 earlier explorer the diff is offset to the pass side about 2" or so. The only way I could see this working is using a full size 8.8 and cut it down to where the offset would fit. Even then I bet you will need 6" of lift just the get the axle away from the frame enough not to bottom out.

I would just use a fullsize set of axles not cut down. I built an S10 about 18 years ago with a set of fullsize blazer axles and 35s and it was sick looking and it wasnt odd looking it looked more like it should big and mean!

The diff in a 02 and up is offset to the pass but the 01 and earlier are offset more. If you were to find an axle with a 1 or 2" offset it may work. I know jeep axles do not work without modding the fuel tank either.

 

[NHarris]

Well I put the Explorer up on the lift and used a computer program to see about the Rear half shaft thats leaking. Apparently (if this program is correct) the differential is offset to the driver side. That's not the point though, I found a rear main seal thats leaking, and ball joint that needs to be replaced, and of course the half shaft thats leaking.
That really throws back on this project... $796 for the rear main seal, the control arm is $520 (I wouldnt have this done before my plates expire). The half shaft (would fail safety) would need to be replaced, so thats about $300. I'm not sure if a college student can afford this... I'm thinking its almost worth selling instead of a SAS or repair.

 

[Limited02]

Well I put the Explorer up on the lift and used a computer program to see about the Rear half shaft thats leaking. Apparently (if this program is correct) the differential is offset to the driver side. That's not the point though, I found a rear main seal thats leaking, and ball joint that needs to be replaced, and of course the half shaft thats leaking.
That really throws back on this project... $796 for the rear main seal, the control arm is $520 (I wouldnt have this done before my plates expire). The half shaft (would fail safety) would need to be replaced, so thats about $300. I'm not sure if a college student can afford this... I'm thinking its almost worth selling instead of a SAS or repair.

Where are you getting those prices??? Be more specific please because I have found prices FAR cheaper than what you've described.

Rear main seal- ?
Control arm- Upper, lower or both?
Half-shaft for the rear I found was-$105

 

[duner]

Well I put the Explorer up on the lift and used a computer program to see about the Rear half shaft thats leaking. Apparently (if this program is correct) the differential is offset to the driver side. That's not the point though, I found a rear main seal thats leaking, and ball joint that needs to be replaced, and of course the half shaft thats leaking.
That really throws back on this project... $796 for the rear main seal, the control arm is $520 (I wouldnt have this done before my plates expire). The half shaft (would fail safety) would need to be replaced, so thats about $300. I'm not sure if a college student can afford this... I'm thinking its almost worth selling instead of a SAS or repair.

WOW, where did you get those prices? I bought the seals for mine for $8 each and did them myself along with the axles that were $175 with exchange each from Autozone. The upper ball joints from Moog are $18 and you can get the tool to install them from Autozone for free.

All of this is very easy to replace and for less than $500 for all of the parts for both sides

 

[NHarris]

Where are you getting those prices??? Be more specific please because I have found prices FAR cheaper than what you've described.

Rear main seal- ?
Control arm- Upper, lower or both?
Half-shaft for the rear I found was-$105

The dealership. Rear passenger side upper control arm. Dealer price is $395 plus $150 in labor.

 

[duner]

The dealership. Rear passenger side upper control arm. Dealer price is $395 plus $150 in labor.

If you cant replace your ball joints yourself I dont think I would even attempt to do the SAS swap

Go to Autozone and get the parts for $18 each and get a press from them for free and do it yourself. I have seen many write ups on here on how to do it.

That is robbery!