Make sure there isn't any moisture around the plugs. I had some I think on cylinder #8 and it seemed to cause similar problems. Probably not it, but it's easy to check and fix.
Called my mechanic and he gave me the code, P2006 and P2007
Was there moisture while it was running or all the time? I just checked and it looks to be bone dry but I haven't driven it in a few hours. There was a lot of dirt and leaves though, think I might vacuum that out just in case haha.
There may be other solutions that are less drastic and expensive.
Good luck.
That is very helpful. It appears the charge motion control valve is just a renamed "Intake Manifold Runner Control". So the way that system works is to use two runners for each bank, a long one for the low speed operation and a shorter one for high speed operation. The long runner is open while the short runner is closed by a valve at idle and low engine speeds. At higher engine speeds the valves covering the short runners are opened by an electric motor. If the valves do not open on command then the MIL is commanded on and DTC(s) are set. The MIL may only be lit when the command to open the valves is actioned and fails, I don't know yet.
Here are Fords explanations for the codes:
P2006 - Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Stuck Closed (Bank 1)
Description: This DTC is set when the IMRC is commanded open, but the IMRC monitor indicates closed. This DTC replaces P1512 and P1519
Possible Causes:
IMRC monitor circuit open
IMRC control circuit open
IMRC monitor circuit short to VREF
Damaged IMRC actuator or solenoid
P2007 - Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Stuck Closed (Bank 2)
Description: This DTC is set when the IMRC is commanded open, but the IMRC monitor indicates closed. This DTC replaces P1513
Possible Causes:
IMRC monitor circuit open
IMRC control circuit open
IMRC monitor circuit short to VREF
Damaged IMRC actuator or solenoid
The Ford possible causes relate to electrical problems or problems in the runner control components. Some people have proposed that the runner control problems are caused by:
1. carbon deposits fouling and sticking the valves and linkage;
2. actuating motor failure;
3. actuating rods disconnected from motor (possibly due to breakage of a part).
Since the vehicle is somtimes (I think) able to get good power, the carbon fouling sounds plausible as an intermittant failure. Most solutions point toward removal of the intake and the runner control system and cleaning it. There may be other solutions that are less drastic and expensive.
Good luck.
Would eliminating the Charge motion control valve using a kit fix this problem as mentioned before? Or is this a different type of problem?
From what I read on the 4.6 mustang forums it is a rather easy DIY solution. However due to my very limited knowledge, I have no idea if this would fix my problem.
I don't know how much a mechanic would charge to remove and clean the parts. Perhaps a call to your mechanic would give you an idea. He seems to know what is going on even if he doesn't always communicate his knowledge.
I figure some owners of other affected vehicles may have tried cleaning solutions in the gas or sprayed into the throttle body or injected into a vacuum line at higher engine speed. It is based along the lines that gas contains cleaners that should keep all parts clean, but not all gas contains them. If your gas doesn't have the cleaners then you will have an ongoing problem. Those seem to be possible alternatives to parts removal, assuming the motor and linkage are not broken and the electrcal circuits/connectors are good. Since you are also getting detonation issues, you may have a general buildup of carbon inside your engine.
The charge motion control valve delete option requires the PCM to be reprogrammed. This does not sound like a good idea if you are not into performance tuning. So there will be a cost to remove the existing parts and a cost to re-program the PCM and a cost to deliver the new program into the PCM. Then you have to hope that the PCM never needs to be updated by Ford. You are going to have massive intake runner openings for good high speed operation that will cause relatively poor idle and low speed operation.
I think the Taurus guys and the van guys would have more down to earth solutions. That is where I will look.
Man this thing is driving me nuts. Took it to the mechanic today and the same two codes popped up (P2006 and P2007). So I am taking it in on Monday to have the Charge Motion Control Valve fixed.
... I have a feeling though it is plugs and the valve.
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Yes, taking it in and getting it fixed sounds like the best option. Chemical cleaning with a running engine seems a waste of time and money for this feature according to the few websites I sampled. Most problems related to mechanical actuation, but even so the "valves" were very carboned up and needed cleaning.
My sons Explorer had 96,000 miles and the plugs were due to be changed. The plugs are very easy to access with the 9/16" hex plug socket. The plugs turned through initial 1/4 turn easily, so my son suggested we not use the carb cleaner and just continue to remove them. Although reluctant, I turned them in and out a few times and since there was no resistance i just unscrewed then easily, just like a normal plug. All came out perfectly. The carbon was light and fluffy and not hard at all. We installed the Champion one piece. I also changed the fuel filter, and it started up and ran perfectly. You may have the same good luck.
Just out of curiosity, could bad spark plugs or ignition coils possibly cause pinging?
Bad spark plugs could cause pinging due to their overheating causing an ignition source. I have never heard of a coil problem causing pinging; the COP is fired directly by the PCM so I cannot see how it would fire the plug early.
Soooooo the mechanic did a diagnose on the truck today and let me know the not so wonderful results.
He said there was definitely a misfire in the 1750-2000 RPM range and also he said that he can here the CMCV valve clicking but it seems like it's not doing anything.
So his diagnose is that I need to replace all of my spark plugs and then he wants to replace the motor on the CMCV. He believes that there are plastic gears that have stripped.
I hope your spark plug change goes as well for you as for me. I have a number of documents on how to do the change and deal with the possible issues if you are interested. Or perhaps you will get your mechanic to do it.
Did you get estimates for both jobs?
Good luck.
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The estimate for the spark plug change is currently $300 but I wouldn't be surprised to hear it ending up to be around $500 or more all said and done.
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$300? That's crazy. There's about 1 hour's worth of labor. $90 for the plugs, that's $210/hr for mech... This is a Ford, not a Porsche.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Gz5Pd-hrWQ