my 92 X "personality disorder"

I have been on here close to a year now and just now getting around to putting my X in the registry. Honestly because I thought you had to be elite to post pics.

Here's my photos when I got it:

Yes it's filthy, but clean(er) now.
And how it looks now:

The door molding no longer exists.

My interior now:

 

[mr cribb]

On 12-3-12 my truck turned 224,000. She keeps on chugging along.

On another note:
Today is my 2 year anniversary for my truck and this forum. I bought my truck with 194,629 miles today she sits at 224,435 which brings my 2 year driving total to 29,804 miles. BUT THEN AGAIN THE DAY ISN'T OVER YET I JUST MIGHT CLEAR 30,000!!

In the last 2 years my truck has never broke down, it has given my problems requiring attention. I consider broken down unable to move under it's own power. That being said the clutch trying to quit would be my biggest issue. I must admit this is a tough truck, day in day out abuse (stop and go city driving) I'm really impressed.

 

[mr cribb]

Small update, Truck cleared 225k still going, but didn't like towing a trailer (4x6) I can tell the engine is tired.

 

[mr cribb]

Now I need help. The truck has been down for a week now. I thought it was the water pump as it was leaking from the weep hole. Got that changed today and still have the same problem as before I noticed the leak. The issue is temp gauge almost maxes out and no heat from the vents. The top radiator hose is cold. Could the heater core stopped up on me? Forgive me for not searching I'm doing this all from my phone as we are still waiting on internet to be hooked back up from moving.(

 

[wood1]

I'd replace the thermostat with a quality replacement, Ford is good. Sounds like it has failed.

 

[mr cribb]

I'd replace the thermostat with a quality replacement, Ford is good. Sounds like it has failed.

I swapped out the t-stat with a known working unit and got heat on the heater hose going to the heater core but the return hose to the water pump was cold.

The known working t-stat comment comes from being uncertain if the newer motorcraft unit actually works 100%. Right now I have a 180* unit in.

The plan now is to take the heater core out and flush it to see if it is stopped up or not. Parts store guy said he wonders if heater control valve is working properly.

Where is the heater control valve located? My repair manual is misplaced due to moving.

 

[wood1]

You shouldn't have a heater control valve. I think they were on '94 and newer. Sounds like the heater core is shot.

So your top rad hose is hot, it's the heater core hose that is cold?

 

[mr cribb]

You shouldn't have a heater control valve. I think they were on '94 and newer. Sounds like the heater core is shot.

So your top rad hose is hot, it's the heater core hose that is cold?

Update.... thermostat works very well. I tested it via a boiling pot of water. The end of the thermostat sticks out a good half inch in a boiling pot of water.

The heater core doesn't leak. I pulled it out and tested it by a water hose and high pressure nozzle. I left it full of water and reinstalled I have great heat.

Now that we know the heater core and thermostat work, there still lies a problem with overheating. Not sure how high the temp was registering on the factory gauge I bought an actual temp gauge. After install and warm up the engine hovered around 200 degrees before the temp kept rising. I shut the truck off around 220, because it wasn't cooling like it should.

I think it is safe to say the head gasket went bye bye. The factors mentioned above and the loss of coolant lead me to this end result.

Any conformation to my findings or advise to look at another area is appreciated.

 

[willindsay]

Will it stay cool while your going down the road?
Kinda sounds like what happened when my fan clutch went.

 

[mr cribb]

Will it stay cool while your going down the road?
Kinda sounds like what happened when my fan clutch went.

No it will not. I also eliminated the fan clutch and went with an electric fan.

I mean when it won't stay below 200 degrees at an idle and heat on full blast I would venture to say there is a more serious problem.

 

[wood1]

If you are loosing coolant it's being consumed somehow. You may just have leaking LIM gaskets. Any bubbles in the antifreeze when you start the engine with the rad cap off?

A compression check will tell you if you have a popped head gasket or a cracked head. As you know, these 4.0L are known for cracked heads.

 

[mr cribb]

If you are loosing coolant it's being consumed somehow. You may just have leaking LIM gaskets. Any bubbles in the antifreeze when you start the engine with the rad cap off?

A compression check will tell you if you have a popped head gasket or a cracked head. As you know, these 4.0L are known for cracked heads.

Yes the LIM gasket is leaking, as it is visible at the front of the engine. And it bubbles violently with the rad cap off for a few seconds, followed by many decent size bubbles almost in unisom, then back big violent bubbles.

 

[wood1]

I would do the compression test and if there are any questionable readings buy new heads. I got mine at Clearwater and was happy. I also got rockers from Delta and found them fine. Just my experience.

Clicky

edit:

really with the bubbling and loss of coolant I think you already know what you need to do...

PM me your new addy. I have a thingy for you.

 

[mr cribb]

I am debating on junkyard heads, then having a machine shop check for cracks etc...

What are the opinions? Yes, no, Hell no?

Reason for the thought is I'm trying to save money and 400 a side for new heads is absurd. Granted I could get heads from on line vendor.... but I would rather deal locally to alleviate warranty delays if needed.

I have considered plucking 95-96 model heads because I haven't heard of too many cracking issues with factory heads.... but a quick search showed 2nd gens had the same problem as first gens.... how much truth is in this?

If I have to run 91 octane or better that is fine.... I am looking for most reliability on the cheapest cost available.

If you consider the fact of getting 2 heads for around $200 from a junkyard then machine shop checking for cracks (last time I used the service it cost me $100 for 2 heads) I am at $300 assuming used heads check out ok.

New heads run $200 each on ebay.... $400 each local... you can see why I would consider used parts.

 

[wood1]

I considered used heads too, jd4242 offered a good set for shipping but strongly suggested the new casting as they are so much better. After a bit more reading I have to say that I agree with him.

Buy new heads, ready to bolt on and not have to worry about cracking etc or get used and have them checked by a shop, lap the valves, replace the stem seals, reface the mating surface and you still have the weak original casting.

Really how much will you save? Couple hundred bucks?

 

[mr cribb]

I considered used heads too, jd4242 offered a good set for shipping but strongly suggested the new casting as they are so much better. After a bit more reading I have to say that I agree with him.

Buy new heads, ready to bolt on and not have to worry about cracking etc or get used and have them checked by a shop, lap the valves, replace the stem seals, reface the mating surface and you still have the weak original casting.

Really how much will you save? Couple hundred bucks?

Yeah I do see the point. Machining will cost $125 for both and includes new stem seals. So $150 for both heads and $125 for machining equals $275 and could solve the problems and who knows maybe not have anymore issues, but as my wife said $300 for used or $400 for brand new and better castings... it is pretty much a no brainer.

It was just a thought, mostly cause I thought the factory 93-94's had better heads than the 91-92's. By going the new route I only have to tear apart one motor vs two if not more depending on if a bad head was discovered.

 

[mr cribb]

Well I ordered new heads today along with new gaskets and head bolts. I ordered them from Clearwater and other stuff from rock auto.

 

[wood1]

Right on. You'll be back up and running in no time.

 

[mr cribb]

Right on. You'll be back up and running in no time.

Yeah that would be nice. I'm tired of driving the wife's durango which also needs work (transmission) and well I just miss driving mine.

 

[mr cribb]

I received my heads from Clearwater today. My they look pretty
I promptly proceeded to tear into my engine. I am down to the longblock now. I won't get it put together until prob later next week, I have things to do such as attend a relatives wedding and hang out with my son whom I haven't seen since last May.

 

[wood1]

Post up some pics Jeremy! Have a great time with the boy too. Take that time when you can get it for sure.