10 Second Temporary Fix for Blend Door Actuator Problem...

[Exproblems]

Just for the record, my wife WAS able to find the switch/lever that controls the blender door and switch it over.

One thing though, she found a black piece of plastic, about 1 inch X 1 inch X 4 inches with a lightbulb (that isn't working) in one end of it, hanging from a wire back behind the glove box. We had noticed there was no light in the glove box, but figured it just didn't come with one. Is this thing supposed to be the glove box light, or what? Any ideas? Thanks for all the great info on this site, and the help with the heat situation.

Here is a tip on keeping the blend door set to the heat side until you can get the actuator repaired. When you go to start up the engine each time, switch the blower fan speed to the highest setting just prior to turning the key over to start the engine. I found doing it this way helped keep the blend door from falling back to the cold side. I believe the pressure from the fan speed on high helped keep the blend door in place during startup, because the blower motor starts up as soon as the dash is energized.

I'm pretty sure the glove box has a light for it, so the piece of plastic with a light bulb attached was probably for that.

 

[runninmt]

Thanks for the tips on the blend door 10 second fix. This will sure keep my other half from hounding me about the "no heat in my Explorer!" Figured the actuator gears are all jacked up. Should I go to Ford for a new one? Any aftermarkets worthwhile?

 

[Exproblems]

Figured the actuator gears are all jacked up. Should I go to Ford for a new one? Any aftermarkets worthwhile?

Yeah, if you open up the old actuator housing once it is out, you should see a couple of the broken, cheaply made small plastic gear teeth laying in the small grease wad in there. The plastic gear teeth mesh up against metal ones that appear to be made of brass.
On which actuator to use, some recommend using the OE Ford part using your VIN number when ordering for an exact fit and others have used the aftermarket ones due to a lower cost. It's a toss up which one will last longer than the other.

 

[JoeR]

Jim, have you seen my write up on changing the actuator? My actuator failed recently after 3 years of faithful service.

Rondo, are you saying that the actuator you replaced in your original post failed after only 3 years? Sounds like I might as well save $$$ and buy one at Autozone if the genuine Ford part only lasts 3 years. (Also makes me wonder if there's a problem in the door itself--like extra friction--that caused both the original and replacement to break?)

The other day I started getting a similar clicking sound from the driver side rear panel near the tailgate. The rear actuator? Have you seen similar instructions for replacing that puppy?

 

[jimborasco]

Haven't had a chance to get the actuator put in since my wife's been pretty sick the last couple of weeks. Hope to get to it this weekend or next. And thanks, Exproblems.. she had mentioned something about having seen a post about that. I try to remember.. so far so good. *S*

 

[BigRondo]

Rondo, are you saying that the actuator you replaced in your original post failed after only 3 years? Sounds like I might as well save $$$ and buy one at Autozone if the genuine Ford part only lasts 3 years. (Also makes me wonder if there's a problem in the door itself--like extra friction--that caused both the original and replacement to break?)

The other day I started getting a similar clicking sound from the driver side rear panel near the tailgate. The rear actuator? Have you seen similar instructions for replacing that puppy?

Joe, that's exactly what I'm saying. Here is the post from my write up:

Well after 3 years the Motorcraft replacement actuator failed. I had no telltale clicking this time. Once I got it out I discovered that it moved in only one direction, COLD.

Due to lack of funds & the fact that Old Man Winter will be bearing down on us soon, this time I went with the Doorman part: 604-209. I ordered it from Advance Auto online and picked it up at the store. This way I could use the Promotion Code P20 and save 20%. Got it for under $48. The dealer price was $92.xx before tax.

I just discovered a 30% code for Advance Auto: TRT30, damn!! I'll have to use that for the rear actuator. I'll be doing that one next.

I will keep you guys posted on how well the Doorman actuators perform & last.

I have since purchased the Doorman actuator for the rear heat and will be installing it soon. I used the 30% code for Advance Auto and ordered it online and picked it up at a local store. Cost $31 + tax.

Hopefully I will have a nice weather day to install it so I can do a write-up for replacing the rear actuator.

I will keep everyone posted on how well the Doorman actuators perform in the write-up thread:

How To: Replace Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex

 

[tod728]

TWO DIFFERENT THINGS-- people are confusing two different problems with heat on their 02 Explorers..... The issue being addressed here in these pictures is the flap that switches from defrost to floor vent. It is controlled by a vacuum line and diaphragm valve that pulls a rod (actually a flat piece of metal about 3/4" wide and 6" long) connected to the plastic ear that moves the flap. That is what people can reach by accessing the glove box. It only diverts the air from the defrost vents to the floor vents. It has nothing to do with HEAT... it diverts cold air just as well. If you literally have NO HEAT.... then you have to fix the Heat Blend flap (on the bottom of the whole mess, or the blend door actuator (on the left side next to the driver's knee).

 

[Cubanlorenzo]

I had that horrible flopping noise. I found that if you don't shut off the heat when you turn the car off, it will stay closed.
You can lower the fan speed but if I don't touch the temp or the placement of the heat it will work for me every time. Even after shutting the car off for days.

 

[mranderson214]

Thanks everyone.

This thread saved me today. It was -2 degrees this morning and of all mornings for my BDA to start acting up.. I drove till the engine heated up, then tried to turn on the heat and heard the infamous knocking sound and had freezing cold air coming from the vents. Looking at the forecast, the highest we'll be seeing is 22 degrees Fahrenheit in the next week and snow everyday. I got to work this morning freezing cold and I knew these cold drives werent going to work..

So I pulled down the glove box and eventually found the switch that was causing the knocking noise and pushed it down, all from just feeling around. Eventually it worked and heat came on. I shut the car off and back on a few times and it still works as long as I dont move the temperature dial off the heat setting.. which wont be anytime soon.

When the weather warms up, I guess I'll attempt to do the full replacement of the actuator but its not gonna happen now in a foot and a half of snow and 4 degree weather. So to anyone else having this problem, I'd recommend doing just as mentioned in this thread and pushing the switch down to get hot air. Once it works, DONT MOVE THE TEMPERATURE DIAL because you'll have to go in constantly or use a zip-tie or something.

Any port for a storm!

 

[D Hook]

Had the same problem today. Usually I could switch from hot to cold and just a few clicks but would still make the switch. Yesterday the outside temp was 85 degrees and today it's about 35 and blowing rain/sleet. So I switched back to heat and the clicking wouldn't stop so I guess the last tooth on the plastic gear must've given up. Too busy to do the blend door fix right now so reached back in there blindly and managed to get it to switch back to heat. Have to do for the next week or so or until the new part comes in. Going to go with the cheaper Advance part since Big Rondo had trouble with the dealer part.

Thanks to the OP for posting this quick fix.

 

[BigRondo]

Had the same problem today. Usually I could switch from hot to cold and just a few clicks but would still make the switch. Yesterday the outside temp was 85 degrees and today it's about 35 and blowing rain/sleet. So I switched back to heat and the clicking wouldn't stop so I guess the last tooth on the plastic gear must've given up. Too busy to do the blend door fix right now so reached back in there blindly and managed to get it to switch back to heat. Have to do for the next week or so or until the new part comes in. Going to go with the cheaper Advance part since Big Rondo had trouble with the dealer part.

Thanks to the OP for posting this quick fix.

Yeah, my Motorcraft part lasted about 3 years. I recently replaced it and the rear actuator with the Dorman parts from Advance and so far, so good.

Good luck getting yours sorted.

 

[diocynic]

My wife has been b#tching me out about this and neither of us want to spend $800 to $1500 for a repair, but being severely myopic with hand neuroapathy, arthritic and weighing about 200 rather than 95 pounds, not ambidexterous or able to see in the dark, etc., I first determined I could get my hand on the lever of the 2005 Mountaineer. Then I tried the aluminum foil ball fix, but couldn't get it in the right position. Now I have taken a big ball of plumber's putty (doesn't everyone keep this on hand), heated it for two minutes in the microwave and now intend, and WILL, get it stuffed into there so at least I can get a few weeks to avoid b#tching and plan a more permanent solution.

 

[diocynic]

Well, the plumbers putty, about 8 years old, (actually weather insulation ropes) was too brittle and crumpled. I thought duct tape might work but couldn't find my roll. But I did find this roll of foil backed by sticky adhesive, so I'm trying to make a ball, smaller than a hardball, more like a golf ball, because you need some stickiness to stick to that slick plastic.

 

[diocynic]

Well, that foil tape with thick adhesive backing, folded into a sort of wedge, did seem to stick in place to force the lever down, likely much better than my lost duct tape. With my neuropathy of finger control and the fact that only one finger could press down on the lever and became stuck to the tape did create some delays as I spend 10 minutes in an awkward position trying to maneuver it loose so it stuck to the plastic and not my paralyzed finger. Now, I'm trying to stop the bleeding on the back of my hand and have learned that my partner used my last bandaid. We'll try this for the cold morning commute tomorrow, and I will sort for the umpteenth time though my fix-it room for the monster tape, which I bought last year to remove the CD stuck in her CD player. For me, definitely not a 15 minute fix.

 

[steveatthebeach]

I got sick of driving in the cold today, so I decided I would figure out this blend door garbage. Mine is stuck blowing cold air, and knocking under the dash (front end HVAC only). This basically helps it shut either way so you get all cold or all hot air. But it will sure fix me until I get the part ordered next week.

Unhinge glove box

Swing glove box all the way out

Turn off the blower and set the temp gauge to where it is clicking. You want the blower off so you can feel the thumps as those will lead you to the door hinge.

Reach directly into this spot and try to go STRAIGHT down from there. Basically I was wrist deep into this cavity before I hit the door hinge.

There is the blend door hinge opposite of the actuator. If it is clicking when you try to get to it, you WILL feel this thing bouncing up and down on that sensor. Just push it the appropriate way to get HEAT/COOL.

This is obviously on the passenger side of the car. If you were to access the driver side similar to this, you would have your hand on that piece of crap actuator.

This should get you by until you get that part ordered. If you have an Oreilly's Auto, you can get part #604202, which is the correct actuator for the front HVAC on the 2002-2005 Explorers. I also think it fits the 01 as well???

Are the original images from this thread still available? I just had the same problem today, (click, click, click), and of course it's supposed to snow it's butt off tonight and tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

[steveatthebeach]

It's not a bad job. Follow my write up and you'll do fine. Good luck.

How To: Replace Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex

A damn fine job from the looks of it!

Mine went on the fritz yesterday (of course, its the day they're actually calling for snow and ugly temps in the 20's), so a replacement is in order, no heat in the E is not fun! I'm going to jam the door open until Wednesday, temps are supposed to be in the 50's.

Thanks BigR!

 

[Darien Dudley]

I got sick of driving in the cold today, so I decided I would figure out this blend door garbage. Mine is stuck blowing cold air, and knocking under the dash (front end HVAC only). This basically helps it shut either way so you get all cold or all hot air. But it will sure fix me until I get the part ordered next week.

Unhinge glove box
(dead links)

Swing glove box all the way out


Turn off the blower and set the temp gauge to where it is clicking. You want the blower off so you can feel the thumps as those will lead you to the door hinge.

Reach directly into this spot and try to go STRAIGHT down from there. Basically I was wrist deep into this cavity before I hit the door hinge.


There is the blend door hinge opposite of the actuator. If it is clicking when you try to get to it, you WILL feel this thing bouncing up and down on that sensor. Just push it the appropriate way to get HEAT/COOL.


This is obviously on the passenger side of the car. If you were to access the driver side similar to this, you would have your hand on that piece of crap actuator.

This should get you by until you get that part ordered. If you have an Oreilly's Auto, you can get part #604202, which is the correct actuator for the front HVAC on the 2002-2005 Explorers. I also think it fits the 01 as well???

Which way is hot