oplitic
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- May 5, 2006
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- 98 Mounty
UPDATED THE LINKS
This was on a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer.
These are the camber adjusters I bought, they allow for the most amount of adjustment without cutting and welding...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-29000/
I'll get some more detailed pics later today. These are from my phone.(writing this at 2am-ish)
Be careful with any of these pipes/tubes/wires/lines, whatever you wanna call them. Most are metal and if kinked will need to be replaced.
These are from memory so sorry if they aren't exact. More like helpful hints I guess. I was just trying to help people out who have never even looked at it before attempting this. (like me)
Driver side: (the first camber on the left)
1. Chock the rear tires, put on the parking brake, jack stands etc. all that safety stuff.
2. Take your wheel off. And then take the black plastic piece covering where we're going to be working off. (right behind the tire) They're just push pin things. (be careful, the black piece might rip, mine did a little.)
3. (See figure 1 #3) Unbolt this bracket and push it to the side, pretty much on top of the bushings. (10mm I believe (room for your hand)
4. (see figure 1 #2) Unclip this and push it down behind the pipes behind where you just took it off. (room for your hand)
5. (See figure 1 #4) Unbolt this nut. (can't remember the size off the top of my head. 17mm I believe) take off the washer and the camber.
6. (see figure 1 #1) Pull the bolt towards the rear end just enough so the camber can twist freely.
7. Now twist the big part of the camber (figure 1 #5) to the bottom, and then away from you a bit. (If you were looking at it like you were in the driver seat it would be like between 4 and 5 o'clock) You do this because the lines behind the shock tower are in the way. This way you have more room to pull it out.
8. Now you can wiggle and pull and push it out. It might be hard cause of all the lines, just try to push them to the side (not too far, don't want to break them)
9. Now take your adjustable camber kit and put them in the same way.(bolt head toward the rear, nut toward the front, easier to tighten.) Remember, slide the camber on first, then the washer. (I found if you put the camber and washer where the threads end and the smoothness begins you can put it in no problem, the lines barely get in the way, only did before cause the stock cambers were welded to the bolt heads)
10. Once the bolt is in place put the washer and then the camber and then the nut on.
11. Now you can tighten it and adjust the camber how ever you need to.
Hint
utting the bigger part of the camber toward the engine will bring the top of the tire out, putting the bigger part of the camber away from the engine will bring the top of the tire in.
Figure 1
Driver side: (the second camber on the right)
1. (see figure 2 #6) unhook this line. ( will give you more room to push it around in a few steps)
2. (see figure 2 #5 and figure 3 {circled}) Behind here are 2 lines hooked on a white clip, undo atleast the one farthest away from you, if not both. (more room to play when taking out the camber bolt) (WARNING: These are fuel lines, you don't want to break these)
3. (See figure 2 #7) Unbolt this nut. (can't remember the size off the top of my head. 17mm I believe) take off the washer and the camber.
4. (see figure 1 #1) Pull the bolt towards the front end. (just on the other side instead)
5. This is where it gets tricky, remember those two lines I said to unhook? (See figure 3 {the arrows}) You need to snake it between those, they don't move far enough together in any directions for enough room. Even doing that though, it still sucks to take it out. Just try not to break the lines.
6. Now you can wiggle and pull and push it out. It might be hard cause of all the lines, just try to push them to the side (not too far, don't want to break them)
7. Now take your adjustable camber kit and put them in the same way.(bolt head toward the front, nut toward the rear, easier to tighten.) Remember, slide the camber on first, then the washer. (I found if you put the camber and washer where the threads end and the smoothness begins you can put it in no problem, the lines barely get in the way, only did before cause the stock cambers were welded to the bolt heads)
8. Once the bolt is in place put the washer and then the camber and then the nut on.
9. Now you can tighten it and adjust the camber how ever you need to.
Hintutting the bigger part of the camber toward the engine will bring the top of the tire out, putting the bigger part of the camber away from the engine will bring the top of the tire in.
Figure 2
Figure 3
Passenger Side: (so much easier)
Well, you do the same exact thing as the driver side, just there's VERY FEW lines. And they don't even get in the way. (If they do for you just push them to the side being careful not to break them.
Easy as that.
Hopes this helps some people.
This was on a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer.
These are the camber adjusters I bought, they allow for the most amount of adjustment without cutting and welding...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-29000/
I'll get some more detailed pics later today. These are from my phone.(writing this at 2am-ish)
Be careful with any of these pipes/tubes/wires/lines, whatever you wanna call them. Most are metal and if kinked will need to be replaced.
These are from memory so sorry if they aren't exact. More like helpful hints I guess. I was just trying to help people out who have never even looked at it before attempting this. (like me)
Driver side: (the first camber on the left)
1. Chock the rear tires, put on the parking brake, jack stands etc. all that safety stuff.
2. Take your wheel off. And then take the black plastic piece covering where we're going to be working off. (right behind the tire) They're just push pin things. (be careful, the black piece might rip, mine did a little.)
3. (See figure 1 #3) Unbolt this bracket and push it to the side, pretty much on top of the bushings. (10mm I believe (room for your hand)
4. (see figure 1 #2) Unclip this and push it down behind the pipes behind where you just took it off. (room for your hand)
5. (See figure 1 #4) Unbolt this nut. (can't remember the size off the top of my head. 17mm I believe) take off the washer and the camber.
6. (see figure 1 #1) Pull the bolt towards the rear end just enough so the camber can twist freely.
7. Now twist the big part of the camber (figure 1 #5) to the bottom, and then away from you a bit. (If you were looking at it like you were in the driver seat it would be like between 4 and 5 o'clock) You do this because the lines behind the shock tower are in the way. This way you have more room to pull it out.
8. Now you can wiggle and pull and push it out. It might be hard cause of all the lines, just try to push them to the side (not too far, don't want to break them)
9. Now take your adjustable camber kit and put them in the same way.(bolt head toward the rear, nut toward the front, easier to tighten.) Remember, slide the camber on first, then the washer. (I found if you put the camber and washer where the threads end and the smoothness begins you can put it in no problem, the lines barely get in the way, only did before cause the stock cambers were welded to the bolt heads)
10. Once the bolt is in place put the washer and then the camber and then the nut on.
11. Now you can tighten it and adjust the camber how ever you need to.
Hint
utting the bigger part of the camber toward the engine will bring the top of the tire out, putting the bigger part of the camber away from the engine will bring the top of the tire in.Figure 1
Driver side: (the second camber on the right)
1. (see figure 2 #6) unhook this line. ( will give you more room to push it around in a few steps)
2. (see figure 2 #5 and figure 3 {circled}) Behind here are 2 lines hooked on a white clip, undo atleast the one farthest away from you, if not both. (more room to play when taking out the camber bolt) (WARNING: These are fuel lines, you don't want to break these)
3. (See figure 2 #7) Unbolt this nut. (can't remember the size off the top of my head. 17mm I believe) take off the washer and the camber.
4. (see figure 1 #1) Pull the bolt towards the front end. (just on the other side instead)
5. This is where it gets tricky, remember those two lines I said to unhook? (See figure 3 {the arrows}) You need to snake it between those, they don't move far enough together in any directions for enough room. Even doing that though, it still sucks to take it out. Just try not to break the lines.
6. Now you can wiggle and pull and push it out. It might be hard cause of all the lines, just try to push them to the side (not too far, don't want to break them)
7. Now take your adjustable camber kit and put them in the same way.(bolt head toward the front, nut toward the rear, easier to tighten.) Remember, slide the camber on first, then the washer. (I found if you put the camber and washer where the threads end and the smoothness begins you can put it in no problem, the lines barely get in the way, only did before cause the stock cambers were welded to the bolt heads)
8. Once the bolt is in place put the washer and then the camber and then the nut on.
9. Now you can tighten it and adjust the camber how ever you need to.
Hint
utting the bigger part of the camber toward the engine will bring the top of the tire out, putting the bigger part of the camber away from the engine will bring the top of the tire in.Figure 2
Figure 3
Passenger Side: (so much easier)
Well, you do the same exact thing as the driver side, just there's VERY FEW lines. And they don't even get in the way. (If they do for you just push them to the side being careful not to break them.
Easy as that.
Hopes this helps some people.
