2013 Limited Ds2 Retrofit | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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joshdhat

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March 25, 2013
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City, State
Dallas, Tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
13 Explorer Limited
Ok as promised, here is a complete how to guide for retroing the stock ds3 system to the much better ds2 setup.

i apologize i didnt take any pictures of the process or a before shot.

tools needed,
1) T20 torx bit, you will also need a smaller one forgot the size.
2) 7/32 socket
3) 1/2 socket
4) 7mm socket
5) 10mm Socket
6) Flat Head
7) Phillips
8) your preferred way of cutting and splicing wires
9) replacement ds2 projectors ( I used BI-XENON: HELLA EVOX-R)
10) replacement ds2 bulbs (D2S: OSRAM XENARC 66240 CBI)
11) replacement ballast (DENSO SLIM BALLASTS)
12) 5 pin relay and harness
13) re-sealant (OCI BUTYL RUBBER GLUE)

Step one,
You do not have to remove the bumper to remove the headlights but it does make it easier. remove all the 10mm bolts on the top along with the two pop tabs. then the 7/32 screws in the fender wells. once all the screws are out the bumper will pop forward allowing access to the two remaining headlight screws. one on the side 1/2" one in the front 10mm. if you want to take the bumper off there are several 5/16 screws on the bottom.

Step two,
Dissemble the headlights,
start on the bottom, there will be 2- t20 torxs screws on the bottom and one on the side. then remove the stock ballast, 4 7mm screws. unclip the connections. remove the running light and blinker. there is also a 7mm bolt on the back of the housing that needs to be removed.
repeat for other headlight.

Step three,
preheat oven to 250. then place headlight black side down in for 15 min.
then take a flat head and start to pry the lens apart. i was not able to separate them at one time. get as far as you can. then place them back in the over for an additional 10 min. then they should easily separate.
repeat for other side.

Step four,
this is where the smaller torx bit comes in. there will be 4 screws holding in the stock projector housing. remove them. there is a small clip on the high beam shroud unplug it. leave the wire on the stock bulb.

step 5,
assemble the new bulbs into the new projectors. place the new projectors into the headlights using the 4 torxs screws. remember that the cut off shield goes on the bottom. plug the factory connecter into the high beam shroud.

step 6
plug the new ballast into the new bulb. now the fun part starts. black wire off of ballast goes to the black wire inside the headlight. red wire goes to green wire inside headlight. orange wire is unused. i wedged the ballast in the base of the headlight. repeat for the other side.

step 7
place the BUTYL in the grove of the housing on the headlight. try to thin it out, if you do not thin it a little bit it will be extremely hard to reset the lens with the housing. once the BUTYL is applied place the housing in the oven at 210 for 7 min. then place the lens on the housing. apply good pressure to seal all the way around. repeat with other side.

step 8,
reassemble the stock ballast , blinkers and bottom bracket. the headlight is now finished.

step 9,
wiring

this is the way i wired mine. i taped the wire at the plug on the headlight. also tapped the driver side.

87= brown light blue toward headlight. which is the green wire inside the headlight.

i also ran a leg off of this to the passenger side to charge that headlight. i believe is also brown light blue. could be wrong. but is is in the same pin number as the drivers.

87A= unused

86= brown light blue toward the car.

85= ground/ black green

30= constant power/ red

use what ever method you like to wire and make splices and connections.

step 10,
once all the wiring is done and tested re-assemble your car.

step 11,
use the phillips tip to aim the headlights up and down.
 



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@joshdhat: Did you lose any functionality with this change (from D3S to D2S)?

What I mean by functionality is:

Are you able to turn on the parking lights only? (No low/high beam on)
High beam flash to pass still works?

Does the system perform 100% as previously?


Can you explain the wiring in more depth? Relay?

Making the conversion from D3S (ballasts use three wires) to D2S (ballasts uses two wires).... what did you for this solution?


Thanks!
 






@joshdhat: Did you lose any functionality with this change (from D3S to D2S)?

What I mean by functionality is:

Are you able to turn on the parking lights only? (No low/high beam on)
High beam flash to pass still works?

YES!

Does the system perform 100% as previously?

YES


Can you explain the wiring in more depth? Relay?

Making the conversion from D3S (ballasts use three wires) to D2S (ballasts uses two wires).... what did you for this solution?

the relay is what made this possible. check your pm

Thanks![/QUOTE]
 






Xenon Retrofit on 2012 Explorer

My wife is constantly complaining she cant drive at night because of the poor quality light output... and i cant blame her. It truly is horrible even though these cars have projectors.

Anyways, I just got done having a local guy do a Xenon Retrofit on my 94 Toyota supra. I purchased an Acura TSX projector, ballast and phillips Xenon bulbs. Light output is amazing now.

My question to you guys is... Cant the same be done with the explorer? Ive read a few threads in this forum but everyone either talks about upgrading the bulbs or installing kits.

I would prefer to have the real thing. I was considering buying the Acura TL projectors which have the low\high beam, Ballast and phillip D2S Bulbs.

Has anyone done or know of someone whos tried retrofitting their stock lights?
 






My wife is constantly complaining she cant drive at night because of the poor quality light output... and i cant blame her. It truly is horrible even though these cars have projectors.

Anyways, I just got done having a local guy do a Xenon Retrofit on my 94 Toyota supra. I purchased an Acura TSX projector, ballast and phillips Xenon bulbs. Light output is amazing now.

My question to you guys is... Cant the same be done with the explorer? Ive read a few threads in this forum but everyone either talks about upgrading the bulbs or installing kits.

I would prefer to have the real thing. I was considering buying the Acura TL projectors which have the low\high beam, Ballast and phillip D2S Bulbs.

Has anyone done or know of someone whos tried retrofitting their stock lights?
As indicated in my PM, I have merged your thread with this existing one on the same topic.

Also you do not show which model Explorer you have. It is a good idea to add that info to your profile show it shows in the left margin.
Good luck.

Peter
 






Did you have to make any changes to your Evox Projectors to make them fit? Ive heard you normally have to pre-drill the mounting holes because depending on the projector you use... mounting holes may not always lign up.
 






I Picked up a set of EVOX-R projectors with new ballasts and bulbs. I hope to install them in a few weeks. I'll report back with pictures.
 






I Picked up a set of EVOX-R projectors with new ballasts and bulbs. I hope to install them in a few weeks. I'll report back with pictures.

What made you go with these projectors? Just asking because there's other projectors that would work as well. How much did everything cost you if you don't mind me asking.
 






What made you go with these projectors? Just asking because there's other projectors that would work as well. How much did everything cost you if you don't mind me asking.
Looks like the projectors run $140:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...-r-bi-xenon-projector-48298.html#.Uuc4HJ8o6BY

I believe he probably went with these because the bolt pattern is the same as stock and the plug for the high beam shutter is positioned exactly the same as the stock projector.
 












Looks like the projectors run $140:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...-r-bi-xenon-projector-48298.html#.Uuc4HJ8o6BY

I believe he probably went with these because the bolt pattern is the same as stock and the plug for the high beam shutter is positioned exactly the same as the stock projector.

Exactly. I don't want to deal with modifying the housing. From what i see online, the EVOX-R are way better than the stock projectors and they essentially bolt on.

I did go with new 50w ballasts as well, so the output should be a big step up from my 35w setup in the stock projectors.
 






He stated on "9) replacement ds2 projectors ( I used BI-XENON: HELLA EVOX-R)"

I have FX-R 3.0s (D2Ss) on mine, the upgrade is night and day.... literally!

How much modification was needed to get the FX-R to fit?
 






How much modification was needed to get the FX-R to fit?

Should be minimal. The TRS guys told me it was basically a drop in to our housings.
 






How much modification was needed to get the FX-R to fit?

There was no assembly modification, it was a drop in.

By the way spend the extra mile and get quality OEM equipment instead of aftermarket (Ex: D2Ss bulbs and ballasts) like I did, it is worth it.

I will post output shots at some point.
 






There was no assembly modification, it was a drop in.

By the way spend the extra mile and get quality OEM equipment instead of aftermarket (Ex: D2Ss bulbs and ballasts) like I did, it is worth it.

I will post output shots at some point.

I agree, thats why i was curious as to why use the Evox projectors. I thought it was maybe because any other projector would not fit properly. Cant wait to see your retrofit.
 






There was no assembly modification, it was a drop in.

By the way spend the extra mile and get quality OEM equipment instead of aftermarket (Ex: D2Ss bulbs and ballasts) like I did, it is worth it.

I will post output shots at some point.

Interesting. The guys at TRS said the only drop in replacement they sell for my '13 Sport was the EVOX-R. By drop in i mean just split the housing and unbolt the old one, then bolt the new one in. Unless they are talking about the high beam wiring.

I would prefer OEM as well but i went with TRS stuff for cost. I have their 35w kit now in my stock projectors without issue.


I agree, thats why i was curious as to why use the Evox projectors. I thought it was maybe because any other projector would not fit properly. Cant wait to see your retrofit.

I looked around and asked TRS and they recommended the EVOX-R. I think either way the EVOX-R is so much better than stock i'll be satisfied.
 






Interesting. The guys at TRS said the only drop in replacement they sell for my '13 Sport was the EVOX-R. By drop in i mean just split the housing and unbolt the old one, then bolt the new one in. Unless they are talking about the high beam wiring.

I would prefer OEM as well but i went with TRS stuff for cost. I have their 35w kit now in my stock projectors without issue.




I looked around and asked TRS and they recommended the EVOX-R. I think either way the EVOX-R is so much better than stock i'll be satisfied.

IIRC the Evo is a better design anyway.
 






Does this swap apply to just the factory xenon-equipped trucks, or can this be done to halogen vehicles as well?
 






Does this swap apply to just the factory xenon-equipped trucks, or can this be done to halogen vehicles as well?

I did this the swap on my Sport, which come factory with halogens.

Anyone who have swapped to HIDs have issues on start when its cold out? Sometimes by bulbs don't fire up on a cold morning when I have my lights set to auto. I usually have to cycle the headlight switch a time or two.

I'm specifically interested if anyone with the Denso ballasts have this issue? I'm running the TRS 50w ballasts.
 



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I live in Ma as well. I had that problem until I added a relay harness. 100% reliable now, always leave the lights in auto mode.
 






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