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Dersch's Mounty Gettin Jacked Up (advice please)

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Hey guys okay so i have a regular registry where i did a few small things, then the elite registry where i got the AAL/ TT twist and some 32's.

well it is now time to FINALLY go big and actually make a movement with the truck. i have a few things that im planning to do but not sure the best order or anything.

a little bit about the truck... 2000 mounty v8 AWD with 32" tires AAl/ shackles/ tt twist. 157k miles
the vehicle is currently my DD and come may i will have a company car with 100% free gas/ insurance/ etc. so the mounty will get the lift i have always wanted and only be used for fun, offroading, when i dont feel like driving the company car, and winter time when the roads are just too bad for the car.

For those of you remembering i am not going to do SAS anymore just too much money for me and not in my mechanical ability. so superlift, gears, and body lift for me.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382307&page=3
I LOVE the look of this truck and im basing a lot of my truck off this one.

OPTION 1
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Superlift
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i can not find a how to at all for this, does anyone have a write up on how they did this?

from what i gathers k494 is the FULL kit... now i have heard its cheaper to get just the front kit and then do an SOA in the back...
but here is the full kit on ebay for $1500 http://www.ebay.com/itm/K494-Superl...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d1baf606&vxp=mtr

suggestions on k494 full kit vs front only/ SOA
according to ebay the 9633 fit is $850 and the 9637 kit is $350 so $1200 your only saving $200 mine as well get the k494 for $1450.

OR

i can wait around and try and find a used superlift kit for sale on the forums... right now theres one going for $800 im debating on jumping on since itll save me about $600 from a full k494 kit and id just do the SOA.
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BODYLIFT
Depending on how i like the look with just a super lift, and how the 33's look i will throw on a 3" body lift
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GEARS/ LOCKER

this second options im thinking of just swapping in a set of used stock front and rear axles and sticking with a 4.10 gear set up.
since i would be switching to the manual T-case i would probably add a locker to the rear, not sure what kind yet need to look into this more... suggestions?
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Manual transfer case swap

according to EBAY if i order everything off there including a T-case for $375 i can get all the parts need for $800. and i know for a fact i could probably find the parts at a junkyard for cheaper.

any hints or tips for this?

i will follow this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166726
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RIMS
well since im only going to 33's i think 15" rims are so much cheaper and readily available.

i have no clue what to do for backspacing though... im thinking around 3.5 or 3.75" i want the tires to stick out a little bit.

i think i would go with these rims... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-204-5012

15x10 rims... 3.75" back spacing.

80 a piece x 5 rims= $400
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TIRES
I would most likely get the superlift/ new axles installed and gears. and then run my 32's for a while until they just were getting worn. and then i would buy a new set of tires. probably looking at 225 a tires id say... so figure about $1250 for 5 tires.


i think the best way to do this would be to find a used superlift, and once i do that locate some used stock front or rear axles for an ex with 4.10 gears. and then once ive done that get those and then do the bw4406 swap, once thats done tear the truck apart and do the lift/ gears at same time, and then eventually do tires/ rims.

so suggestions, advice, comments, concerns?
 



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The overall plan sounds good with the suspension lift, tire size, gears, etc.

I'd say you're better off getting the 2" body lift rather than the 3". If you decide to go to 37's, I'd say trimming the fenders would be better than the extra inch of body height.
When/if doing the body lift, you might also want to check the condition of the stock body mounts and replace then with Daystar Polyurethane body mounts, which are available in a kit. This will also get you an extra 1/4" of body lift.

Only concern is the expense - check out how much the estimated total is - more than what you could sell the vehicle for.

I'm not saying you shouldn't do it - but evaluate why you're doing it and if this stuff is really necessary. Are you SURE that this setup is what you need for the kind of wheeling you do, or are you just throwing something together?

I'd also remind you, sometimes this stuff can be had used for a much better price. You might be able to get a used Superlift kit to throw on there for much less, some 33's and 4.56's, and have something that's a better on/off road rig than something that's lifted 7-8" and on 35-37's. Remember there is no free lunch - larger, heavier tires and wheels on the same drivetrain means more wear and tear, more parts having to be replaced. That's part of the reason for solid axle swaps.

If you want to do this economically, save your money, drive the company truck (but don't get in trouble using it or the gas card in ways you're not supposed to), and get those savings together for when the superlift kit and some tires/wheels and gears comes up for cheap.
 






if you want to run 37's skip this whole plan and go SAS, the stock front suspension design wont handle tires that big. you would need 5.13 gears to make the trans last and you cant get them that low for the stock front diff either. you can run 35's with a superlift, but you can also run them without it.
 






You can't get 37s in a 15" wheel anymore. If you can it's just one or two tires, and not the most desirable. If you ever intend to go that big it would be better to purchase the 17" wheels now so you won't have to buy twice...

$1000 for re-gearing doesn't sounds about right.
 






The overall plan sounds good with the suspension lift, tire size, gears, etc.

I'd say you're better off getting the 2" body lift rather than the 3". If you decide to go to 37's, I'd say trimming the fenders would be better than the extra inch of body height.
When/if doing the body lift, you might also want to check the condition of the stock body mounts and replace then with Daystar Polyurethane body mounts, which are available in a kit. This will also get you an extra 1/4" of body lift.

Only concern is the expense - check out how much the estimated total is - more than what you could sell the vehicle for.

I'm not saying you shouldn't do it - but evaluate why you're doing it and if this stuff is really necessary. Are you SURE that this setup is what you need for the kind of wheeling you do, or are you just throwing something together?

I'd also remind you, sometimes this stuff can be had used for a much better price. You might be able to get a used Superlift kit to throw on there for much less, some 33's and 4.56's, and have something that's a better on/off road rig than something that's lifted 7-8" and on 35-37's. Remember there is no free lunch - larger, heavier tires and wheels on the same drivetrain means more wear and tear, more parts having to be replaced. That's part of the reason for solid axle swaps.

If you want to do this economically, save your money, drive the company truck (but don't get in trouble using it or the gas card in ways you're not supposed to), and get those savings together for when the superlift kit and some tires/wheels and gears comes up for cheap.

I like alot of what you had to say. in a practicabilty stand point. the trucks worth about $3000. and the total cost of this project im probably looking at about $4-5000 depending on prices etc.

the wheeling i do is not frequent its probably once every few months with the current set up i have now ive never really had any problems but then again i have been pretty limited to the set up im in now to lesser trails.

i actually like what you said about maybe just getting a used superlift, and running 33's.

the body lift may be unneccesary like i stated... maybe a better place to run this would be a used super lift/ SOA, 33's and then swap in some 4.10 gears which would help get a better ratio and would be cheaper because i could just swap in a used stock axle...

35's and the superlift/ bodylift was the look i was going for based off of i believe its "terrys" truck i posted above. the practicalness off road i am not sure off.

but 33's and a superlift should get me through pretty much anything. what you think?

if you want to run 37's skip this whole plan and go SAS, the stock front suspension design wont handle tires that big. you would need 5.13 gears to make the trans last and you cant get them that low for the stock front diff either. you can run 35's with a superlift, but you can also run them without it.
i dont think i will ever go with 37's honestly. too expensive and too much maintence like you said. also the reason i am NOT going with SAS is because to me to get it done correctly 1. i do not have near the mechanical ability to do all the angles and get the geometry correct 2. do not have the time and 3. i think it would be too much money i heard people costs run up to about $5000. which i realize is the cost of my project but with the one i have hear its all within my ability. i think SAS would be great and i honestly would rather have that but i dont think its something i can practically do unless i had a lot of help or had a shop do it.

You can't get 37s in a 15" wheel anymore. If you can it's just one or two tires, and not the most desirable. If you ever intend to go that big it would be better to purchase the 17" wheels now so you won't have to buy twice...

$1000 for re-gearing doesn't sounds about right.

kind of like i mentioned up above i dont plan to run 37's unless its really far down the road. what would you expect for regearing from a shop?

if i went with what "Anime" suggested about and went with 33's and a super lift and then swapped in stock 4.10's what would that cost?
 






bloominxploder has a front superlift kit used complete for sale for $800... is that a pretty good deal? something worth jumping on now even if i dont install it for a little while?
 






if you want to run 37's skip this whole plan and go SAS, the stock front suspension design wont handle tires that big. you would need 5.13 gears to make the trans last and you cant get them that low for the stock front diff either. you can run 35's with a superlift, but you can also run them without it.

hell would going with a rig thats already built up like this be worth it and smarter?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399682
its got a lift already, the tire size, manual trans, gears, bumpers, lights, everything for $4000 which i could hopefully get him down.

instead of doing all this to my truck would it be smarter to do something that is already built that would actually equivalent out to be cheaper?
 






hell would going with a rig thats already built up like this be worth it and smarter?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399682
its got a lift already, the tire size, manual trans, gears, bumpers, lights, everything for $4000 which i could hopefully get him down.

instead of doing all this to my truck would it be smarter to do something that is already built that would actually equivalent out to be cheaper?

That is a very capable rig. If an explorer is what you want you will be far far ahead buying the "black hole". If I was you I would commit to it. I have helped do a little of the work to that truck and personally vouch for it. You'll spend twice as much money and blow a whole summer of fun time wrenching and testing trying to match it with your present truck.
 






That is a very capable rig. If an explorer is what you want you will be far far ahead buying the "black hole". If I was you I would commit to it. I have helped do a little of the work to that truck and personally vouch for it. You'll spend twice as much money and blow a whole summer of fun time wrenching and testing trying to match it with your present truck.

that is my thinking... that ill waste more time/ money doing it then when its already built even though i like wrenching.

just dont have 4000 to throw at him right now.
 






I have wheeled with Gman, and that rig will keep up with many built far beyond it. The custom coil-over setup is far better than the superlift as far as suspension travel, and on-road handling. The Black Hole is worth far more than what he is asking, and i wouldnt waste too much time trying to talk him down.
 






I have wheeled with Gman, and that rig will keep up with many built far beyond it. The custom coil-over setup is far better than the superlift as far as suspension travel, and on-road handling. The Black Hole is worth far more than what he is asking, and i wouldnt waste too much time trying to talk him down.

yea i kind of figured he wouldnt budge much... if i had the 4k i would go get it
 






I like alot of what you had to say. in a practicabilty stand point. the trucks worth about $3000. and the total cost of this project im probably looking at about $4-5000 depending on prices etc.

i actually like what you said about maybe just getting a used superlift, and running 33's.

but 33's and a superlift should get me through pretty much anything. what you think?

33's are fine for just about anything but the most difficult trails, but you aren't going to do those anyway without a solid axle and tons of flex.

From a practicality standpoint, I would say an Explorer with 33's is about at the limit of what you would want to do for something that is driven on the street.


bloominxploder has a front superlift kit used complete for sale for $800... is that a pretty good deal? something worth jumping on now even if i dont install it for a little while?

Yes that's a pretty good deal - this is why you want savings around, to hop on deals when you want to buy stuff for the project.


hell would going with a rig thats already built up like this be worth it and smarter?

instead of doing all this to my truck would it be smarter to do something that is already built that would actually equivalent out to be cheaper?

In some ways, yes. But think about it - do you have the time and the space and the need for TWO Explorers, OR would it be better to have your current rig with 33's to serve double duty?

There's a lot to be said for having a dedicated trail rig - if you do a lot of trail driving. If you don't, and it's just going to sit around except for the few times you might take it off-roading, it's a waste of time and money.

My read of your current situation tells me you'd be better off with just the Mounty for now, mod it up some if you're unhappy with how it currently sits, then when you're a little more settled and have the dough, if you discover that 33's and the mods you did still aren't cutting it, you would probably want to consider buying an already built rig like that, so you can keep the Mounty as-is, and have a toy to play with on the weekends and take to trail runs without worrying about your main rig.

If you're thinking about keeping the Mounty as it sits with the 32's and not doing anything else, but getting another rig instead, or even putting the Mounty back closer to stock, that may be doable and more practical. You'll have to decide if you can handle two vehicles plus the company truck. What you don't want is TWO project trucks in-between being running and usable at the same time.
 






33's are fine for just about anything but the most difficult trails, but you aren't going to do those anyway without a solid axle and tons of flex.

From a practicality standpoint, I would say an Explorer with 33's is about at the limit of what you would want to do for something that is driven on the street.




Yes that's a pretty good deal - this is why you want savings around, to hop on deals when you want to buy stuff for the project.




In some ways, yes. But think about it - do you have the time and the space and the need for TWO Explorers, OR would it be better to have your current rig with 33's to serve double duty?

There's a lot to be said for having a dedicated trail rig - if you do a lot of trail driving. If you don't, and it's just going to sit around except for the few times you might take it off-roading, it's a waste of time and money.

My read of your current situation tells me you'd be better off with just the Mounty for now, mod it up some if you're unhappy with how it currently sits, then when you're a little more settled and have the dough, if you discover that 33's and the mods you did still aren't cutting it, you would probably want to consider buying an already built rig like that, so you can keep the Mounty as-is, and have a toy to play with on the weekends and take to trail runs without worrying about your main rig.

If you're thinking about keeping the Mounty as it sits with the 32's and not doing anything else, but getting another rig instead, or even putting the Mounty back closer to stock, that may be doable and more practical. You'll have to decide if you can handle two vehicles plus the company truck. What you don't want is TWO project trucks in-between being running and usable at the same time.

I like your advice honestly. You must be older And wise haha
But practically I think 33's swap in 4.10's and super lift will give me a great DD and the ability to pretty much hit any trail I need. And if some day its not enough I can upgrade to jeep or buy a solid axle one already done.

I think from here its save a little more money up and jump on parts as I see them come. That super lift I will buy once he responds.

Do you recommend doing the bw4406 swap still?
 






For what it's worth I have a first gen and it is strictly a project vehicle not a commuter. But when I was looking for it I found few decent explorers, and even fewer with the mods I wanted. However I went ahead and settled for one already lifted SOA rear and 3in body lift on 33s and 35s. I spent a decent amount for it too. After 6 months of wrenching close to 1000 in parts and tools I threw in the towel. Everything was much worse than my first impression gave and I knew the full history of a stock one just down the road. I picked that up for a third of the price of the first and it has been much less of a headache.

Moral of the story know what you're getting into when buying used and make sure it has the parts you want, not the ones you think you want. It might be easier to find a built second gen because they made them longer their newer etc. but it might be cheaper or at least easier in the long run to build a vehicle you already know.

Another thing to take into consideration is workspace. I have spent just as much if not more time and money on tools and workspace than the explorers themselves. It is still an ongoing battle right now I could buy half a transmission or get my garage rewired, buy new axles, or air compressor, long travel kit or plasma cutter, you get the idea. Just what I have run into from my experience.
 






For what it's worth I have a first gen and it is strictly a project vehicle not a commuter. But when I was looking for it I found few decent explorers, and even fewer with the mods I wanted. However I went ahead and settled for one already lifted SOA rear and 3in body lift on 33s and 35s. I spent a decent amount for it too. After 6 months of wrenching close to 1000 in parts and tools I threw in the towel. Everything was much worse than my first impression gave and I knew the full history of a stock one just down the road. I picked that up for a third of the price of the first and it has been much less of a headache.

Moral of the story know what you're getting into when buying used and make sure it has the parts you want, not the ones you think you want. It might be easier to find a built second gen because they made them longer their newer etc. but it might be cheaper or at least easier in the long run to build a vehicle you already know.

Another thing to take into consideration is workspace. I have spent just as much if not more time and money on tools and workspace than the explorers themselves. It is still an ongoing battle right now I could buy half a transmission or get my garage rewired, buy new axles, or air compressor, long travel kit or plasma cutter, you get the idea. Just what I have run into from my experience.

That all makes sense too.
I think I'm leaning towards What "amine" was saying.
Sit and wait check forums and get me a used super lift. Find some axles with 4.10s get some rims/ tires and go have fun this summer.

And when its absolutely not enough I'll get a jeep or somethung
 






Do you recommend doing the bw4406 swap still?

No idea. Manual TC's are inherently more reliable than their electric counterparts, especially over time, but on a daily driver or rig that only sees trails every so often, electric engagement can be just fine and all you ever need. On-the-fly 4WD can also be a huge plus when driving in snow and harsh weather.

I'd say do your research and check out other rigs on here that have the 5.0L V8 and get advice from those who run those on the trail. Maybe the stock TC holds up with 33's, maybe it doesn't, depending on where and how you wheel. You might have to worry about the hubs/wheel bearings more than the driveline.

It may be one of those things that you might want to save up and buy when the opportunity presents itself, or keep an eye out for or occasionally call a salvage yard about, so you have a backup if/when something does happen to the stock TC, or just if you want/need to upgrade in the future.


But practically I think 33's swap in 4.10's and super lift will give me a great DD and the ability to pretty much hit any trail I need. And if some day its not enough I can upgrade to jeep or buy a solid axle one already done.

I think from here its save a little more money up and jump on parts as I see them come. That super lift I will buy once he responds.

Sit and wait check forums and get me a used super lift. Find some axles with 4.10s get some rims/ tires and go have fun this summer.

And when its absolutely not enough I'll get a jeep or somethung

I hope beefing up your rig gets you where you want and lets you have a lot of fun, both in wheeling and in working on it. Hopefully you'll gain a lot of knowledge and experience in the process.

Keep reading the forums and getting ideas. It's a lot of fun to do small and easy mods here and there as well, and by the time you're ready and have a lot of money saved up, if you ever do decide to go big and get something else for dedicated use, you'll have a better understanding of what you want or need.
 






No idea. Manual TC's are inherently more reliable than their electric counterparts, especially over time, but on a daily driver or rig that only sees trails every so often, electric engagement can be just fine and all you ever need. On-the-fly 4WD can also be a huge plus when driving in snow and harsh weather.

I'd say do your research and check out other rigs on here that have the 5.0L V8 and get advice from those who run those on the trail. Maybe the stock TC holds up with 33's, maybe it doesn't, depending on where and how you wheel. You might have to worry about the hubs/wheel bearings more than the driveline.

It may be one of those things that you might want to save up and buy when the opportunity presents itself, or keep an eye out for or occasionally call a salvage yard about, so you have a backup if/when something does happen to the stock TC, or just if you want/need to upgrade in the future.






I hope beefing up your rig gets you where you want and lets you have a lot of fun, both in wheeling and in working on it. Hopefully you'll gain a lot of knowledge and experience in the process.

Keep reading the forums and getting ideas. It's a lot of fun to do small and easy mods here and there as well, and by the time you're ready and have a lot of money saved up, if you ever do decide to go big and get something else for dedicated use, you'll have a better understanding of what you want or need.

Thanks honestly for the real world advice. Its hard to find people who give advice vs. Calling a young cat like me. Stupid.
But yea I think I'm going to research the tcase some more and figure out some stuff.
But yea I'm going to just keep my eyes open until I can find a good super lift and gears and tcase.

I'm still debating though on buying a wrangler 4dr. Yes I'll have a loan but a small loan no biggy. And that way the vehicle I'm putting work into will last a while and the parts won't out weigh the cost of vehicle
 






That is a very capable rig. If an explorer is what you want you will be far far ahead buying the "black hole". If I was you I would commit to it. I have helped do a little of the work to that truck and personally vouch for it. You'll spend twice as much money and blow a whole summer of fun time wrenching and testing trying to match it with your present truck.

what would be your thoughts on just installing a body lift? a body lift would allow me to bump up to 33's easily and have more room. and itd be a ton cheaper. kit is like $200 get it installed for a few hunderd or so. that would give me 3 more inches of lift, and it would get me to be able to run 33's...

thoughts?
 






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