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03 Explorer with 04 4.0 SOHC Engine.

MtExplorer Guy

Active Member
Joined
September 25, 2012
Messages
60
Reaction score
1
City, State
Kalispell, MT
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Explorer XLS
Howdy guys, I don't post here often, but am in a bit of a pinch, I put an almost new 2004 4.0 SOHC engine in my 2003 about a year an a half ago, because the dreaded timing chain problems, I went with the o4 motor, because they were not suppose to have these problems, the motor only had about 30K on it when installed. Well low and behold, last Dec it started rattling again in the front end, so I figured new tensioner, guess what, didn't stop it. So started tearing into it last weekend to replace the front chain and cassette, finally figured out how to get the fan off, and the alternator with bracket and idler wheels. Now I am trying to figure out the power steering pump.

The PS pump is of course in a bracket with a divorced reservoir and the AC compressor is bolted to the side of the PS pump, my question, is it possible, to take the bracket bolts off, then move the whole assembly to the side, I really don't want to pull the AC and have to recharge if possible, do I need to take the HP Hose off the pump to do this, or do I have to take everything apart?

After this, I have to figure out the darn intake system, I can only see three bolts and don't seem to be able to locate the rest of them, does anyone have a diagram of the bolt placement on the intake?

Last but not least, can anyone point me in the direction of the Engineer that designed the Mickey Mouse Engine cooling fan set up in this thing, I would love to send him a note!

:eek:

Also, just in case anyone is interested, the threads on my fan were the normal, turn counter clockwise to remove and clockwise to tighten. And it was not printed on my fan shroud, I looked that thing over with a fine toothed comb and it ain't there!
 



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Howdy guys, I don't post here often, but am in a bit of a pinch, I put an almost new 2004 4.0 SOHC engine in my 2003 about a year an a half ago, because the dreaded timing chain problems, I went with the o4 motor, because they were not suppose to have these problems, the motor only had about 30K on it when installed. Well low and behold, last Dec it started rattling again in the front end, so I figured new tensioner, guess what, didn't stop it. So started tearing into it last weekend to replace the front chain and cassette, finally figured out how to get the fan off, and the alternator with bracket and idler wheels. Now I am trying to figure out the power steering pump. The PS pump is of course in a bracket with a divorced reservoir and the AC compressor is bolted to the side of the PS pump, my question, is it possible, to take the bracket bolts off, then move the whole assembly to the side, I really don't want to pull the AC and have to recharge if possible, do I need to take the HP Hose off the pump to do this, or do I have to take everything apart? After this, I have to figure out the darn intake system, I can only see three bolts and don't seem to be able to locate the rest of them, does anyone have a diagram of the bolt placement on the intake? Last but not least, can anyone point me in the direction of the Engineer that designed the Mickey Mouse Engine cooling fan set up in this thing, I would love to send him a note! :eek: Also, just in case anyone is interested, the threads on my fan were the normal, turn counter clockwise to remove and clockwise to tighten. And it was not printed on my fan shroud, I looked that thing over with a fine toothed comb and it ain't there!

I wired tied up the power steering and the AC to pull the motor when I did my last one. I didn't take the AC out and it worked great. I used an 07 Mustang 4.0 with 52,000 miles on it and the engine that failed was an 04 I have 2 04's with bad engines I am using the tranny for my 02 to flip it. The 04's have the same problem as the 02's and 03's I think they all have trouble getting 200k they will blow before or around the mark.
 






Thank you for the answer Joscibo, one question, you left them as a unit, which I understand, if I remove the bolts holding the PS steer pump, did you just rotate them to the drivers side of the vehicle and wire them in that position, I can see it looks like the PS hose will have to be taken off, but man it would be nice if I could just remove those mounting bolts and rotate to the right and wire up.

When I had the motor replaced, I just had it shipped to a mechanic and paid him to do it, unfortunately, I am now unemployed and have to figure it out on my own this time.
 






Thank you for the answer Joscibo, one question, you left them as a unit, which I understand, if I remove the bolts holding the PS steer pump, did you just rotate them to the drivers side of the vehicle and wire them in that position, I can see it looks like the PS hose will have to be taken off, but man it would be nice if I could just remove those mounting bolts and rotate to the right and wire up.

When I had the motor replaced, I just had it shipped to a mechanic and paid him to do it, unfortunately, I am now unemployed and have to figure it out on my own this time.

bump, I would like to know this too, how much can you move the ac/ps accessory pack? does it just twist toward the radiator?
 






Intake Manifold, Upper

"After this, I have to figure out the darn intake system, I can only see three bolts and don't seem to be able to locate the rest of them, does anyone have a diagram of the bolt placement on the intake?"

There are 8 bolts, all entering the lower straight down vertically. The very rear 2 are really difficult to see. You have to look way in the back, under the cowl overhang. I had to find this out due to the Fuel Pressure/Temperature Sensor going out, TWICE in 2 years time. They are Torx screws. imp
 






Thank you for the answer Joscibo, one question, you left them as a unit, which I understand, if I remove the bolts holding the PS steer pump, did you just rotate them to the drivers side of the vehicle and wire them in that position, I can see it looks like the PS hose will have to be taken off, but man it would be nice if I could just remove those mounting bolts and rotate to the right and wire up. When I had the motor replaced, I just had it shipped to a mechanic and paid him to do it, unfortunately, I am now unemployed and have to figure it out on my own this time.

The radiator was taken out and I did move all accessories to the driver side compartment leaving all hoses attached and wired up the power steering reservoir as well with the hose attached. It takes a bit if work to move around when pulling the engine out but well worth it. I hope it works for you.
 






Well thought I would bump this back up today, I have removed the 4 mounting bolts that holds the bracket that holds the PS and the AC, but can't get them to move much, it is almost like there is a rubber holding them or a sleeve in one of the bolt holes, I am perplexed at this one!
 






Well thought I would bump this back up today, I have removed the 4 mounting bolts that holds the bracket that holds the PS and the AC, but can't get them to move much, it is almost like there is a rubber holding them or a sleeve in one of the bolt holes, I am perplexed at this one!

Two little 8mm bolts go into the top of it from the coil pack bracket. #19 on diagram.



Uc1pfTh.jpg
 






Thank you sir, that was the image I needed, got them all out of the way now, and working on removing the timing chain cover.
 






Thank you sir, that was the image I needed, got them all out of the way now, and working on removing the timing chain cover.

I'm doing the same thing this weekend. How much did the ac/ps move?

I'm going to try and leave the radiator in and just move the ac/ps towards the battery, but never tried this method.
 






I'm doing the same thing this weekend. How much did the ac/ps move?

I'm going to try and leave the radiator in and just move the ac/ps towards the battery, but never tried this method.

I was able to pull the PS/AC forward quite a bit, I left the rad in, and I used large zip ties to tie it to the radiator support in the front of the vehicle, so I was able to access all of the Water pump bolts as well as the timing chain cover bolts. The 5 bolt on the bottom of the timing chain cover are a real pain in the butt, I used a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 10mm six point socket, once you get them broke free they will come out by hand.

Now I am bummed, I just noticed in order to get the cover off, you have to taken the dam harmonic balancer off!


:thumbdwn:
 






I was able to pull the PS/AC forward quite a bit, I left the rad in, and I used large zip ties to tie it to the radiator support in the front of the vehicle, so I was able to access all of the Water pump bolts as well as the timing chain cover bolts. The 5 bolt on the bottom of the timing chain cover are a real pain in the butt, I used a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 10mm six point socket, once you get them broke free they will come out by hand.

Now I am bummed, I just noticed in order to get the cover off, you have to taken the dam harmonic balancer off!


:thumbdwn:

Yep! You'll need some longer bolts than what comes in the typical puller kit. Read the harmonic balancer failure sticky at the top of the forum for how to remove it properly.

Also, you'll need to be able to torque it properly without damaging it. You can either make a holding tool out of wood or pull the starter and jam the flexplate teeth. Either way the bolt is not reusable so you need a new one from Ford. About 8-10 bucks.
 






Replacing the timing chains on these are a real bear you really need to be sharp and make sure that they come apart and remain in time and also go back together correctly are whammo at start up.
 






Ok, Now what, I look and talked to every single parts store in my little town today, looking for the tools to hold the harmonic balancer to remove it and low and behold, nobody even knew what I was talking about! Yikes. So I guess, it is time to go Macgyver and figure something out! by the way, I am pretty sharp, but this darn thing is driving me crazy, I know why I paid a mechanic the last time!
 






Well I have now had to order another OTC 6488 Kit! The last one I bought, I didn't use because we put in this motor, so I sold to someone on here! By the way, just in case anyone is looking Amazon has the OTC 6488 kit on sale for $139.97 with free shipping, if you are a prime member, you can get it in 2 days, so I activated my prime trial, for 30 days to get the free 2 day shipping and will cancel when I am done. You can also get free standard shipping if you are not a prime member, just takes a couple more days to get to you.
 






You can rent one from autozone. You just need to buy some M8 1.25 x 100mm bolts and washers. You'll probably still need the longer bolts.
 






MT: The harmonic balancer/pulley may be held from rotating with a strap wrench, a cheap and easily-adjusted means of holding big things against rotation. imp
 






MT: The harmonic balancer/pulley may be held from rotating with a strap wrench, a cheap and easily-adjusted means of holding big things against rotation. imp

Using a strap wrench on the outer ring will damage the harmonic balancer. (All the force is put on the elastomer ring which deforms and can ruin the bond) Best way for a home mechanic without air tools is use the starter bump method, take starter out and lock flexplate, or make a holding tool out of a 2x4 by drilling some holes. You can also use the strap wrench on the rear inner hub of the balancer if you remove the crank sensor. But if you have an updated design balancer this can easily damage the fragile tone ring cage.
 






You can rent one from autozone. You just need to buy some M8 1.25 x 100mm bolts and washers. You'll probably still need the longer bolts.

I have the bolts, and I have the puller, I broke the strap wrench trying to hold it, so I figure what the heck, I keep buying these darn cars, so I will get the tool kit again!

Out local autozone as well as Reilly does not have the kit, I checked before I bought it.
 



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I have the bolts, and I have the puller, I broke the strap wrench trying to hold it, so I figure what the heck, I keep buying these darn cars, so I will get the tool kit again!

Out local autozone as well as Reilly does not have the kit, I checked before I bought it.

Do you have access to a drill and the bits to make 3/8" and 1.5" holes? Tomorrow I can take some pics of how to make a tool to take off and torque the balancer bolt out of 1x4 oak hardwood. Strap wrench :thumbdwn:
 






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