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03 Explorer with 04 4.0 SOHC Engine.

Using a strap wrench on the outer ring will damage the harmonic balancer. (All the force is put on the elastomer ring which deforms and can ruin the bond) Best way for a home mechanic without air tools is use the starter bump method, take starter out and lock flexplate, or make a holding tool out of a 2x4 by drilling some holes. You can also use the strap wrench on the rear inner hub of the balancer if you remove the crank sensor. But if you have an updated design balancer this can easily damage the fragile tone ring cage.

Mostly good advice! But, doesn't the rubber bond transmit ALL the driving torque to the pulley, thereby driving all the front accessories? A/C and alternator alone account for significant drag torque, mostly present all the time. But, maybe yer right, the bond could be broken by loosening/tightening the bolt while holding the pulley. Have you ever experienced it? imp
 



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Mostly good advice! But, doesn't the rubber bond transmit ALL the driving torque to the pulley, thereby driving all the front accessories? A/C and alternator alone account for significant drag torque, mostly present all the time. But, maybe yer right, the bond could be broken by loosening/tightening the bolt while holding the pulley. Have you ever experienced it? imp

Yep it does, but I'm not sure how much torque it sees when driving things. The spring loaded belt tensioner has a dampner in it that takes the brunt of shocks for things like the AC compressor clutch engaging and disengaging by taking in and letting out belt length slowly. Not sure what the rotational force is in general. It's an interesting question!

But if the bolt is stuck it can easily take 200-300 ft lbs to get it off. It definitely doesn't experience anywhere near that.


Here's the tool I make:

1x4 piece of oak hardwood (2x4 pine will work, but in our engine bay it won't clear the frame to the ground, too thick.)

About 38 and 1/8" long. Drill two 3/8" holes ~ 2.5" apart. (Measure your balancer's bolt hole distance to get more exact.) And drill a 1.5" hole with a hole saw or spade bore in the center.

MAKE SURE THE 3/8" HOLES ARE OFFSET. Putting the holes in a line will guarantee the wood will split as it puts all the force down the center.

Also make sure to leave 5-6" of wood beyond the holes to resist splitting. In my experience this is a one-time tool, as tons of micro-splits are created with use. You could try to use it again but your knuckles might pay!

Bolt it hand tight to the front of the balancer with the long end going down to the ground. It will wedge. Flip it to resist tightening or loosening depending on your need.

It's good for about 250 ft lbs in my experience. You can put a c-clamp on the end to increase split resistance.

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Thanks Cross, I made two of them today and low and behold, split them out right away, I made a third one out of three pieces of 1/2 birch plywood, glued and screwed together, and it seem to be quite a bit stronger than the solid pieces of wood I used to begin with. If it does not work, my OTC kit will be here on Wed. By the way, if you do the board the right length, it will rest on the passenger side of the frame horn and wedge there with no problem, at least it does on my 2003 model.
 






Thanks Cross, I made two of them today and low and behold, split them out right away, I made a third one out of three pieces of 1/2 birch plywood, glued and screwed together, and it seem to be quite a bit stronger than the solid pieces of wood I used to begin with. If it does not work, my OTC kit will be here on Wed. By the way, if you do the board the right length, it will rest on the passenger side of the frame horn and wedge there with no problem, at least it does on my 2003 model.

Yep frame works, too. Hmm they keep splitting? Try adding more length to the head, if there's clearance. Maybe pull the alternator pack.
 






Yep frame works, too. Hmm they keep splitting? Try adding more length to the head, if there's clearance. Maybe pull the alternator pack.

What is so silly, as soon as you posted asking if I had the ability to drill holes, it was an awe ha moment, I knew exactly what you were talking about, which is so frustrating, because I ordered the kit about 20 minutes before you posted your message. Based on what I experienced today, I would recommend making the wedge out of a couple of pieces of plywood, so you have cross section strength. I had several scraps of 1/2 birch laying around because that is what I used for drawers in the cabinets I built for my kitchen, but I suspect any plywood would work. Again, thank you, for kicking my brain back into gear.

:salute:
 






Well using my birch plywood jig, I was able to get the harmonic balancer bolt out with no problems at all. Now I am having difficulty with the bolts for the puller, I tried using the AC mounting bolts and can only get one to screw in, the other three holes, don't seem to have threads in them! I was under the impression, these bolt holes were M8 x 1.25 threaded bolt holes, is this correct? Any way off to autozone to borrow a puller with the various bolt sizes in it.
 






Well using my birch plywood jig, I was able to get the harmonic balancer bolt out with no problems at all. Now I am having difficulty with the bolts for the puller, I tried using the AC mounting bolts and can only get one to screw in, the other three holes, don't seem to have threads in them! I was under the impression, these bolt holes were M8 x 1.25 threaded bolt holes, is this correct? Any way off to autozone to borrow a puller with the various bolt sizes in it.

Yep only two holes will be threaded. M8 x 1.25 is correct. They need to be 90-100mm. The threads in the hole start pretty deep.
 






Yep only two holes will be threaded. M8 x 1.25 is correct. They need to be 90-100mm. The threads in the hole start pretty deep.

Thanks Cross6, you have been a god send on this project!
 






Thanks Cross6, you have been a god send on this project!

No prob! Been through this a few times on my explorer with water pumps and other stuff. My local Napa of all places had the M8 x 1.25 x 100mm bolts after striking out at Lowes. Make sure to grab a fist full of washers and fender washers. The pullers turn the washers into a U with every use.
 






No prob! Been through this a few times on my explorer with water pumps and other stuff. My local Napa of all places had the M8 x 1.25 x 100mm bolts after striking out at Lowes. Make sure to grab a fist full of washers and fender washers. The pullers turn the washers into a U with every use.

I was able to pick up the bolts today at Ace hardware and a hand full of washers as well, I am not going to do this again, when I get it done, the car goes up for sale, I am going to find another Ford that does not have quite as much trouble, this one has been a bear and it is not like I don't like Fords, I have 3 1 ton 4x4 trucks, just sold 2 older explorers and I also have an Aerostar, but this one is wearing me out!
 






Well based on what I have on my vehicle, the AC bolts don't work on the harmonic balancer, they are to big, comparing them to the M8 x 1.25 are quite a bit smaller than the AC mounting bolts on this particular engine.
 






Well I can tell you what, those last two manifold bolts on the drivers side of the engine are not easy to get out!, got the balancer off, that was a couple of hour process with two different pullers, culminating with having to use an 8 inch 3/8 inch bolt to push on to get it out the final little bit! This would have been much quicker with the engine out of the vehicle or if I had taken the radiator out! Once open, looking at the engine from the front the small cassette on the left hand side was destroyed and the spring tensioner was sitting on top of the balance shaft gear and the drivers side cam tensioner was in several pieces and the chain it jammed in there, so once I finally get the manifold off and the valve cover should be able to get this back together pretty quickly.
 






Well I can tell you what, those last two manifold bolts on the drivers side of the engine are not easy to get out!, got the balancer off, that was a couple of hour process with two different pullers, culminating with having to use an 8 inch 3/8 inch bolt to push on to get it out the final little bit! This would have been much quicker with the engine out of the vehicle or if I had taken the radiator out! Once open, looking at the engine from the front the small cassette on the left hand side was destroyed and the spring tensioner was sitting on top of the balance shaft gear and the drivers side cam tensioner was in several pieces and the chain it jammed in there, so once I finally get the manifold off and the valve cover should be able to get this back together pretty quickly.

I just discovered similar yesterday. My balance shaft tensioner was broken almost exactly like that. Mine is an 04 too.

This is what it looked like when I fished it out.

d4emEtA.jpg
 






Well, I thought I was moving right along Cross, but second to last bolt for the intake manifold on the drivers side is stripped, the only thing I can figure to do, it use the sawzall and cut the last runner off and then pull the manifold so I can gain access, then I will have to purchase a new/used upper manifold to get this done. I really didn't want to pull this engine, but I am starting to think it would be easier to finish the job pulling the engine, I can tell you this, I will never own another 4.0 Sohc vehicle again...
 






Well, I thought I was moving right along Cross, but second to last bolt for the intake manifold on the drivers side is stripped, the only thing I can figure to do, it use the sawzall and cut the last runner off and then pull the manifold so I can gain access, then I will have to purchase a new/used upper manifold to get this done. I really didn't want to pull this engine, but I am starting to think it would be easier to finish the job pulling the engine, I can tell you this, I will never own another 4.0 Sohc vehicle again...


Yikes. Stripped, how? The torx head is rounded off?

From what I can see via the timing cover my driver side cassette looks good. But I don't trust it. Going to pull the valve cover too just to get a visual on the upper plastic bits.
 






Yikes. Stripped, how? The torx head is rounded off?

From what I can see via the timing cover my driver side cassette looks good. But I don't trust it. Going to pull the valve cover too just to get a visual on the upper plastic bits.

Yup, the inside is rounded off, I don't know how it happened, but now I either have to drill and easy out it, or I cut the manifold and get another one, I gave up and mowed the yard, so I could think about it.
 






Yup, the inside is rounded off, I don't know how it happened, but now I either have to drill and easy out it, or I cut the manifold and get another one, I gave up and mowed the yard, so I could think about it.

That sucks, I wonder if you could find a flat head or hex that would fit in there. Such a tight spot to work on back there with the cowl. :roll:

Did you buy the timing tool kit too?

Yeah I know what you mean about high maintenance fords. I've owned a lot of fords, but this mountaineer and my old 95 tbird are one thing after another lol.

My other fords, like my old 90 Ranger went over 200K with basic tune up stuff. Guess I should stick to the trucks...
 






That sucks, I wonder if you could find a flat head or hex that would fit in there. Such a tight spot to work on back there with the cowl. :roll:

Did you buy the timing tool kit too?

Yeah I know what you mean about high maintenance fords. I've owned a lot of fords, but this mountaineer and my old 95 tbird are one thing after another lol.

My other fords, like my old 90 Ranger went over 200K with basic tune up stuff. Guess I should stick to the trucks...

Yes, the OTC kit arrived yesterday, and with the look of things, I am actually glad I bought it, because I am really thinking about pulling the motor and doing it all. I was taking some digital images between the runners this evening and I don't know if I striped the manifold bolt or the fuel rail bolt, they are real close together and the exact same sized torx on mine. I can't believe Ford would use such a soft metal on a bolt that is that important, that it could be stripped out that easy, but I do have an easy out kit that is quite small, so I should be able to figure something out to get this bolt out.

I think I am going to give up for a day or two and take the 5th wheel and boat out and go fishing! Like I said, I have several other fords, and have owned them since I was in my 20's and I am way beyond my 20's now, my son just turned 40 and one of my daughters is 42, so I have been doing this for a long time!

But again, I think it is time to go fishing, drink some beer and re-think!
 






Yes, the OTC kit arrived yesterday, and with the look of things, I am actually glad I bought it, because I am really thinking about pulling the motor and doing it all. I was taking some digital images between the runners this evening and I don't know if I striped the manifold bolt or the fuel rail bolt, they are real close together and the exact same sized torx on mine. I can't believe Ford would use such a soft metal on a bolt that is that important, that it could be stripped out that easy, but I do have an easy out kit that is quite small, so I should be able to figure something out to get this bolt out. I think I am going to give up for a day or two and take the 5th wheel and boat out and go fishing! Like I said, I have several other fords, and have owned them since I was in my 20's and I am way beyond my 20's now, my son just turned 40 and one of my daughters is 42, so I have been doing this for a long time! But again, I think it is time to go fishing, drink some beer and re-think!

I have a spare intake off a parts vehicle. Let me know if you need one.
 



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