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4.3l sohc v6?

It's been several years since there's been any posts on this subject so I decided to start a new thread to discuss it. There are several ways to significantly increase the power and torque of the SOHC V6: supercharging, turbocharging and stroking. All three are fairly expensive modifications and many members would probably comment why bother when it's possible to upgrade from a V6 Explorer to a V8 Explorer for less money. Well one reason is the V8 was not available in the 2 door Explorer and another reason is I have become comfortable with the SOHC V6 in spite of its potential timing chain death rattle. I am approaching the end of what I hope to be a successful supercharger installation and for various reasons I am not interested in a turbocharger installation so I would like to limit this thread to discussing stroking (and possibly boring) the SOHC V6.

Tom Morana Racing offers a 4.3L stroker kit for $2,600 and a 4.3L short block for $4,550 with the short block requiring a $300 core charge. They claim an increase of 30+ hp and 30+ tq with no other modifications. Additional costs would be gaskets, TTY bolts, and probably a custom tune increasing the total cost of the stroker kit to around $3,000. That's about $100/hp which is comparble to other performance enhancements. In spite of the V6 use in the Mustangs I'm not aware of any other commercially available stroker kits.

I wonder if the Morana kit would hold up on a daily driver and if the pistons would provide adequate oil control. It's hard to determine from the photo of the kit components if the oil control ring is far enough above the piston pin for good oil control. I also wonder if the height of the piston is adequate to prevent "rocking" in the cylinder bore. There's no mention of clearance issues between the block and the crankshaft counterweights or rod caps. Maybe no modifications to the block are needed.

I have no experience with stroking an engine. I will appreciate your comments.
 



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block part number

btw .. someone now the ford OE Number of a SOHC engine block? . .

The part number for the 2002 to 2010 SOHC 4.0L V6 is 5L2Z-6010-A. I think there is a different number for the earlier blocks.
 



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I have been doing a bit of searching and I have found that the industry standard and Chevrolet's standard for cylinder wall thickness is a minimum of .200 thousands of an inch.

How thick is the SOHC's standard cylinder wall thickness?
 






sonic testing

Because of the coolant cavities in the casting the only way to determine cylinder wall thickness is by sonic testing. Below are photos of 5L2Z-6010-A, 2002 and later cylinder block.
MustangBlkTop.jpg

MustangBlkBtm.jpg

I have not found the Ford specified thickness.
 






I ve found 1L2E-6015A13A on my Block
thats true?
sounds like 2003 Explorer
 






What about using an 'outside caliper'. The kind with the gauge on it.
 






Rock Auto are selling Master rebuild kits for up to .040 thou oversize. That will open the bore up to 3.990"
 






again... i will believe in 0.030 maybe 0.040 overbore...

but .. where are the people they said i DID bore it 4.030 and it failed.. is there any who tested and said worked

Everybody says no you cant ..
 






With 6 psi of boost I've got 237/244 = .97 rwhp/cu.in. Assuming the same ratio with 262.6 cu.in. yields only 250 rwhp or a 13 rwhp increase. If I could get all of the work done for $3000 (unlikely) that would be a cost of $231/rwhp - more than twice my criteria. If I were racing and 13 rwhp made the difference between winning and losing it might be worth it. However, for the street at this time I just can't justify the cost unless the short block needed a rebuild.

Yes.. BUT ... if you have to redone the Engine...
you can can go low cost and buy all parts you need ore you can top it and do it better, thats why i think about

i have to redo an/my engine i have a stock over 110.000 km with boost and i dont trust em.

So i will build up a stronger one with better internals, on this point why not be better..
 






again... i will believe in 0.030 maybe 0.040 overbore...

but .. where are the people they said i DID bore it 4.030 and it failed.. is there any who tested and said worked

Everybody says no you cant ..

Where are you getting this number of 4.030???? NO ONE has ever bored it that much..everyone is concerned or just trying to bore it to 4.000 (.050 overbore)
 






Where are you getting this number of 4.030???? NO ONE has ever bored it that much..everyone is concerned or just trying to bore it to 4.000 (.050 overbore)

i get this number.. because no one else did ;) try .. maybe

on the other hand why not bigger..
 






i get this number.. because no one else did ;) try .. maybe

on the other hand why not bigger..

How about starting at 4.000 noone has tried that either...bigger is NOT always better..there is.just noway a .080 larger ppiston would work especially if noone can get a 4.000 (.050) too...only reason people want to try and use a 4.000 piston is because they can buy it off the shelf and not have a custom one made..

But before you can pick pistons you need to know how much your stroking it..what rods you can use with the new offset crank size..then pick pistons. ...I dont believe there is a ""off the shelf"" combination that will work or everyone would have been using it already. .
 






Well, I have been reading about people building race/drag/performance engines with cylinder walls as thin as 0.177 thou on the thrust side and even thinner on the wrist pin side, without failure.

Also I recently re-ringed a QR25DE Nissan engine (popular in the US) and those cylinder walls are paper thin, especially between the cylinders, No where near 0.200. So I think you can go well beyond 4.000 on the SOHC.

I might purchase a second Explorer cheap with bad timing chains and/or bent valves and strip the engine down. I know someone with a sonic tester too, and he will test the cylinder walls for free! if I bring the block to his shop.
 






http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manley-Perf...H-Lite-Rod-14036-8-6-000-600-HP-/301189747854

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mle-sbf090030i16/overview/

the rod and piston i prefered for the moment.

this combination with regrind the cam to 2" get me 3,2mm of Stroke. from 84.4 to 87,6 or 3.32 to 3.448 Stroke.
By math i will be 1mm under deck hight that will give me a 9cc and the piston have 6cc inverted. should be fine for a 9,0:1

theoretical...

on a side note i have been to Ana Bay .. ;) 20years ago
 






Links not working
 






Oh, you mean re-grind the crank, (rod journals). Why are you aiming for a lowish compression ratio?
 






Oh, you mean re-grind the crank, (rod journals). Why are you aiming for a lowish compression ratio?

9:1 isnt low for a boosted engine. .thats kind of high for boosted..I run 8.5:1


A side note..your in Australia right?? See many of those turbo falcon around?? I use the rods from them and cant seem to get a stock set of piston rod bearings to physically measure here in US :(
 






Oh, you mean re-grind the crank, (rod journals). Why are you aiming for a lowish compression ratio?

i could go another piston which is 0,8mm to high...
could machine it down also ..


Mahle PowerPak Piston and Ring Kits SBF090030I16

Manley Performance SBC Chevy H-Beam H-Lite Rod 14036-8 6.000" 600+ HP
 






Yeah there's plenty of them around. The cops are using them now instead of the V8. They're known as the Typhoon. Ford Australia parts are all done in metric (that's why we have different part numbers) so putting metric bearings in imperial rods doesn't always line up precisely.
 






Yeah there's plenty of them around. The cops are using them now instead of the V8. They're known as the Typhoon. Ford Australia parts are all done in metric (that's why we have different part numbers) so putting metric bearings in imperial rods doesn't always line up precisely.

Yea kind of what I was trying to measure. .I cant get bearings here in the US for that motor..I use the rods from that motor in my ohv.if I were to send you some money (paypal or something) could you get a set and ship them to me so I can physically measure them? Currently the plan is to use ohv bearings but they are slightly smaller width wise than the rod could or should use..

These are the rods I use.
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/mp-14017-6.html

Old ohv rods and new falcon rods..
20140226_134243_zpss57q2cbv.jpg


20140226_134452_zpsqlbembub.jpg
 



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I like what you have selected there Mr Bronco2. I think I will go with something like your second option. I have to stay away from the Moly rings though because I run on the sand dunes a lot. So I will probably choose Chrome rings.

I will likely run single layer steel head gaskets and a tight ring gap too, may be 0.016 to help increase compression. As I'd like to stay Naturally Aspirated at this time.
 






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