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Explorer spark plugs replacement

bunty27

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 ford explorer
Hi everyone,
Has anyone ever changed all 6 spark plugs on v6 3.5L Ford Explorer 2013? I got a base model. Front 3 plugs looks very easy but rear 3 plugs look little complicated. If anyone got video? Or pictures?, will be really helpful.
Thanks
 



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Why would you be changing plugs already on a 2013 model?
 






Hi everyone,
Has anyone ever changed all 6 spark plugs on v6 3.5L Ford Explorer 2013? I got a base model. Front 3 plugs looks very easy but rear 3 plugs look little complicated. If anyone got video? Or pictures?, will be really helpful.
Thanks

Almost all fwd vehicles with a V6 or V8, are not easy to access the rear spark plugs. I hope you are not planning to change your plugs already on a 2013 model. Spark plugs on today's motors last in excess of 100,000 miles before they need to be changed (if you burn good fuel).

After breaking a plug on a truck I once had, I now just take it to the dealer and let them have the frustrations of doing it.:D
 






The Owner's Guide says to replace them every 100k miles or 160k kms.

Peter
 






It's really not that bad. I pulled the plugs on our sport to check the gap. Sorry I don't have any pics for you but it's not as bad as it looks. If memory serves I had to move some things that were in the way, but take your time, make sure you put everything back together properly and you'll be fine.
 






Thanks for info sinister.
Most of the people were focusing on WHY am I changing plugs on 2013, rather helping.
Well, I got 120k on it thats why :)

Sinister, do you remember replacing seals/head gasket? Etc. ?
Thanks
 






Please don't take this the wrong way but perhaps if you had mentioned the mileage initially, there wouldn't have been any questions as to why you were already changing plugs on a 2013 model. I'm guessing that the majority of owners likely would not put that many miles on a 2013 vehicle. It wouldn't be the first time on this forum that someone was advised to change something before it was due and that is probably why members were inquiring.
Happy holidays. Good luck with the plugs.:thumbsup:

Peter
 






120 k on a 2013 did you live and sleep in this explorer wowowowowow...!
 






Thanks for info sinister.
Most of the people were focusing on WHY am I changing plugs on 2013, rather helping.
Well, I got 120k on it thats why :)

Sinister, do you remember replacing seals/head gasket? Etc. ?
Thanks


I would assume that he/she has the EB engine having a sport, and you having the NA 3.5. I'm willing to bet the process is different. While I've not worked on the 3.5, I CAN tell you that the old 3.0 required the removal of the intake manifold to access the rear 3 plugs. You can always hit an autoparts store and grab a service manual. I buy one for every vehicle I purchase.
 






Sinister, do you remember replacing seals/head gasket? Etc. ?
Thanks

No, I didn't have to replace any seals or anything like that but as Mark M stated we have a sport so it might be a little different.
 






Sinister, do you have the EB engine or the N/A engine?

Bunty - Not sure if makuloco2000 gets on here much, but he is a Ford Tech that does YouTube videos for us. You may try giving him a shout.
 






Mark, the Sport is only available with the Ecoboost engine.

Peter
 






Thanks Peter. That is what I thought but wasn't sure. I'm new to the new gen other than doing installs on them, lol.
 






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QES9mgex8cw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3150o821Aqg
^Found this also. This is the intake manifold removal.


Found this for you. The vehicle is a Taurus, but it is the 3.5 V6. The process should be nearly identical.

It's the same as the old 3.0. You have to pull the intake manifold to access the rear bank. You can replace the rubber O-rings that seal it, although you don't have to. They are under $30 if I recall correctly, so I would recommend doing so, as it's cheap insurance.
 












I'll take a look into video, but I got a base model and I am sure I've to take intake out. I hope its not that difficult. I know it got lots of clamps and hoses before I reach rear 3 plugs.
Thanks for all your help.
 






I've never touched anything under the hood (ashamedly), but I'd like to start. This seems like it would be a good place. Need to gap to .028. Bought a gapping tool. What other tools are needed?

Also, i read somewhere to do one plug at a time, and *in cylinder order*. Not a clue what this means. I don't even know where my spark plugs are. At this point, I can't yet call myself a man. Please help. See- I even asked for help! Who am I?
 






40k miles a year isnt too unheard of, especially for active people taking trips or those of us who work out of our personal vehicles.


I've eyeballed the rear plugs, and it doesnt seem like too much of a chore. Nothing like replacing plugs every 30k miles on the old LT1 Camaros, or even the 96 Impala SS I had for years (you can thank the exhaust manifold designers for the extra hour for the last 2 plugs and bloody knuckles)
 






I've never touched anything under the hood (ashamedly), but I'd like to start. This seems like it would be a good place. Need to gap to .030 for tune. Bought a gapping tool. What other tools are needed?

Also, i read somewhere to do one plug at a time, and *in cylinder order*. Not a clue what this means. I don't even know where my spark plugs are. At this point, I can't yet call myself a man. Please help. See- I even asked for help! Who am I?

Use a blade type feeler gauge. You'll need a correct size spark plug socket and assortment of extensions, plus whatever tools are needed to move obstacles out of the way. Use anti seize compound on the old threads if specified. Ideally use a torque wrench and tighten plugs to specified torque. The instruction to do them one at a time is to ensure that you do not cross up plug wires. Each one goes to a specific cylinder as there is a correct firing order for the cylinders. You do not want that messed up. If for some reason more than one plug wire has to be off at any one time, label the wire and corresponding cylinder. The instruction to change them in firing order doesn't seem to be something you'd need to follow, as with the engine off the whole time it won't matter. If you have no experience under the hood you may want to start with simpler and likely more frequently necessary maintenance like changing your oil or air filter.
 



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Based on your lack of knowledge and inexperience, I would strongly suggest that you not attempt any repairs/maintenance on your own. Especially while your EX is still under warranty......stick with topping up your washer fluid only.

I'm going to have to agree with this regarding spark plug replacement. It's best to change plugs on something smaller before getting into doing a car (snowblower, lawnmower, etc). While spark plugs are one of the more basic of repairs, there's potential for a lot of $ in damage. Over torquing, cross threading, etc. Its your car so by all means do what you want, but I'd suggest if you want to start working on your own cars start with something smaller. Oil changes are a good place to start usually (as others have mentioned). You can check your work when you finish an oil change to make sure nothing bad will happen.
 






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